Sword Pendant Wire Wrapped Jewelry




About: Geeky artist. MUST. MAKE. STUFF. More stuff at: rhondachasedesign.com

I designed this sword pendant for my son, so it is teenage-boy-approved. This project has a lot of steps, but is fairly easy to follow - much like origami. Also, because you don't need more than 12" pieces of wire, it's a great project to use up scrap.

Step 1: What You Need

Note: This is a great project for using short lengths of wire you might otherwise throw out.

All wire is round, dead soft copper, which means you can buy it at the hardware store or use scrap, or use stripped copper wire. Gauges can be adjusted, but make sure your base wire is at least 18g.

10” of 18g wire for base

12” of 21g wire for ornamenation

3” 24g wire to attach beads

1 or more 2-6mm gemstone bead(s)

1 jump ring

Emery board

Clear nail polish

Patina (optional)

Sealer (optional)

Flat Nose Pliers

Round Nose Pliers

Wire Cutter

A metal block for hammering



Step 2: Finished Sword Will Be About 2"

You can adjust wire lengths if you want a different size.

Step 3: Begin

Cut one piece of 18 gauge copper wire about 10 inches long.

Bend the wire at about 6 inches

Note: I'll show 4 pieces just to demonstrate variation in the swords. You only need one piece of (each gauge of) wire per sword.

Step 4: Make a Point

Use flat nose pliers to squeeze the end into a tight point.

At about 2" from the point, bend one wire at a 90° angle. Repeat on the other side.

Note: I show 4 pieces just to demonstrate variation. You only need one piece per sword.

Step 5: Starting the Handle (Cross-Guard)

Using the fattest part of your flat nose pliers as a guide for length, bend one wire at a 90° angle. Repeat with the other wire.

Step 6: Cross-Guard

Bend one wire over all the way and tighten like the point on the bottom. Repeat with the other wire.

Bend the wires at a 90° angle so that the ends point upwards back in line with the bottom of the sword.

Step 7: Cross-Guard

Step 8: Shape Cross-Guard

Using flat nose pliers, bent the cross-guard up or down, depending on the sword style you want. Make it slightly curved.

Step 9: Forge the Blade

Time to hammer your sword.

Using a metal block and chasing hammer (or use what ever you have), gently hammer each side of your sword blade so that it flattens. The more you hammer, the wider it will get. Try to keep the thickness even. Flatten out the sword until you have a thickness and shape you like.

You can also flatten your cross-guard if you want.

Step 10: Point the Tip

Gently hammer the point of the sword into a point. To get the ship more precise, use an emery board to file the rounded sword tip into a point. Don’t make it to sharp.

Pro Tip: Emery boards make great files for soft metals like copper.

Step 11: Pointy Sword

Step 12: Create the Grip & Pommel

Bend the tail of one wire end at a right angle, about .75" above the top of the cross-guard. Use flat nose pliers.

Step 13: Pommel Loop

With round nose pliers, hold the wire tail at the bend and loop the wire tail over the pliers and into a circle with your fingers.

Step 14: Make the Grip

Then wrap the remaining wire tail around the other wires in the space left above the cross-guard. Make at least 5 or 6 full wraps. You can wrap as much as you want after that if the wire is long enough and you can maneuver above the cross-guard. Use pliers on the grip to add stability. Cut excess wire if you want.

Note: Here are 4 swords that are all a little different.

Step 15: Patina

Add patina to the swords at this stage.

These are almost done and you can finish them now if you don’t want additional decoration.

Pro Tip: Add patina in stages if you want to be able to shine up parts that will be partly hidden later.

Step 16: Wash

When dark enough, rinse the chemicals off your sword. Pat dry.

Step 17: Buff

Using a Dremel or other rotary buffer, or hand buffing sheets, start taking off the heavy patina. Buff until all the high points are shiny and the low points are black.

Pro Tip: You can leave parts (like the grip or cross-guard) all black if you want.

You can decide your sword is done now and just add a jump ring - or keep going.

Step 18: Add Gems

Cut 3” of 24g wire to attach gem(s). Apply clear nail polish to the center of the wire if your beads are translucent. Allow to dry.

Pro Tip: When working with see-through beads and patina, apply clear nail polish to the wire before adding beads.

Step 19: Choose Beads

Choose beads and add them to the 3" wire. See how you like them around the grip, and/or cross-guard.

Step 20: Attach Gems

When you have a bead design you like, attach them firmly by winding the thin wire ends around the cross-guard. You can wind wire around the beads also for extra security.

Step 21: Decorative Points

Cut a 12” piece of 21g wire for ornamentation. This length is variable, so just use what you have. Bend the wire in half. Use flat nose pliers to squeeze the end into a tight point.

Measure about 1" from the point and bend one wire 90 degrees.

Step 22: Ornamentation

Bend the second wire 90 degrees in the other direction. Now line the decorative point up on the center of the blade. Wrap each end around one handle of the cross-guard. You will have about 4" of wire on each side to use as ornamentation.

This is where you get creative. Wrap the wires around the cross-guard, grip, and/or gems. Make up your own design or use my examples as a reference.

Attach jump ring to pommel.

Step 23: Examples

Fronts and backs of swords.

Step 24: Patina

Apply patina to the new wire ornamentation.

Step 25: Antique

Using a Dremel or other rotary buffer, or hand buffing sheets, start taking off the heavy patina. Buff the ornamentation until all the high points are shiny and the low points are black.

Step 26: Finished!

Your sword is done! If you want to protect the finish, apply a jewelry grade sealer.

Add a chain and wear.



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    29 Discussions


    Reply 5 months ago

    My favorite patina is M-24 gel. This is a chemical reactive patina, but with low toxicity. I buy it online from Sculpt Nouveau. Let me know how your project goes!


    10 months ago

    Awesome tutorial! I didn't quite have the right type of wire, but wanted to try it out. I think it turned out pretty okay, for using 20 gauge hardware wire that I had laying around, haha. hoping to get a better wire selection soon, and I'll try it again then

    1 reply

    This looks great! When you're at the hardware store, just pick up some copper wire - It's cheap & easy to work with. Thanks so much for posting!


    1 year ago

    LOVE this idea! I've always had trouble working out what to do with wire wrapping, but between this and your really clear wire wrapping tutorial, I might just give it a go! And I know just the person who might like one of these... now I've just got to have the bravery to try! But well done for the awesome idea and clear tutorial x

    1 reply
    Rhonda Chase DesignDolevett

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you so much! Go get some cheap wire and give it a try. There's really nothing to lose : ) And please post what you make - I'd love to see! (The hardest part with the swords id getting things symmetric, so maybe don't aim for perfect symmetry at first.) Have fun!

    Thanks! I was trying to come up with a piece of jewelry my son might actually wear. The wearing is yet to be determined ; )


    1 year ago

    Great work. You could sell them via eBay.

    1 reply
    Rhonda Chase DesignRumpelS

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thanks! I'll eventually get them on either my website or Amazon. (I'm terrible at Ebay :-)

    You patina the base first. Then block off the part of the 24g wire with nail polish where the beads will go. That way the patina won't show through the beads. Since there are 2 more layers on top of the base, a second round of patina is needed to get those new areas.

    Hope this helps!


    1 year ago

    This would make a terrific "kilt" pin, with the jewels and all. How about selling them?