About: Figured it was high time to give this a quick edit. I was an active part of the K'Nex community from about '08, I still occasionally lurk. I did a lot of dumb stuff on here but I'm past it now. I'm currently...

Yeah, The Jamalam's Oodammo sidearm version 1 is out, and ready for war!

This is my pistol which I have been working on for about a month now, tweaking it around slightly. It was designed primarily for comfort; note the extremely precise handle, and then for reliability and power. This pistol is a bit above average for power due to the far-back trigger mechanism and locked- in firing pin.

This is my first pistol to use a broken piece *gasp* and unfortunately, there will be more. Hopefully you will be able to find an orange connector with a single broken prong, but it is replaceable with a grey rod. This, however, will be quite unreliable.

Version history
V1.0 - Built to test out a new trigger I made, worked well. 3 Layers thick.
V1.1 - I made numerous mods to the internal structure.
V1.2 - I built a mag for it, which was permanent and a lot like the TBOS from Killer~SafeCracker.
V1.3 - I made it 5 layers thick, save for the handle.
V1.4 - I modded the handle a lot, including Flex rods and the recognisable 2 slot grey connector at the bottom.
V1.5 - I modded the front of the gun to include a removable magazine instead of the permanent one, and added a trigger guard.
V1.6 - I made some mods to the ironsights, triggerguard and mag. This is the version covered in this instructable.
V1.7 - currently in production.

Extremely comfortable handle.
Reliable, comfortable trigger.
Easy to use.
Removeable, 8 round oodammo magazine.
Optimised for accuracy.

My ratings:
War gun: Primary - 3.5/5 - Because of its high power, slightly above average for an oodammo gun, this would be a formidable primary. However, its low mag cap and size let it down.
War gun: Secondary - 5/5 - Fits the purpose excellently. It has a reasonable mag cap for a side arm, and its high power and range allows you to sharpshoot from a long distance.
Fun gun: - 5/5 - Its high accuracy allows you to be able to shoot targets and cans. And your big sister.

NOTE: for the most part, I fixed my camera :)

Step 1: The Basic Gun

Here, you will build the middle 3 layers of the gun and the handle. The broken piece is pointed out.
1. Build 2 of these.
2. Add all of this to one of them.
3. Build all of these. The broken orange can be substituted with a grey connector.
4. Add them all onto what you have.
5. Build this. The tan knob is inside the yellow connector.
6. Add it here. It is locked in place by the white rod.
7. Build both of these.
8. Add them both here. Sorry for the poor quality.
9. Build these.
10. Add them all to the handle.
11. Now build these.
12. Add them all on.
13. Add the 3rd layer to the handle first.
14. Find 2 small rubberbands.
15. Apply them. You will need to slightly dismantle parts of the panel to get them in place.
16. Finish this step up by adding the 3rd panel to the body. The top barrel front should be loose at the moment, this will be fixed in the next step.

This could almost be a gun in it's own right. If you were to fix the top barrel in place and swap all the blue rods for whites, you could have yourself a nice single shot. However, if you want the full version, which you probably do, move onwards.

Step 2: Outer Layers and Trigger Band Placement

Here, you will add the outer layers and tighten the rubberbands that are currently loose on the trigger parts.

1. Build these parts.
2. Add them all on. The bottom back parts might be quite tricky to put on, so it might do to loosen the rod closer to the top in order to put them on, and then put it back. Be careful that you place them well around the rubberbands.
3.Build this. The white rod must be placed so that all of the 3 spaces for connectors are accessible.
4. Add it on here, locking the top barrel in place.
5. Repeat for the other side, except without the white rod.
6. Add 7 of the 8 tan connectors to this side of the gun, or the other if you are a lefty, although it doesn't really matter.
7. Add the final one here.
8. Build these.
9. Add them on the handle, one on each side.
10. Position the rubberbands as shown. The front trigger one should be continued to loop around the blue rods until it is tight.
11. A close up of the internal mech band.

Step 3: Magazine(s)

Here you will build the removeable magazinemake as many of them as you want, just as long as you have 8 pieces of oodammo per mag. Learn to load them up.

The first 3 pictures are different angles of the unloaded magazine so you can build it. The last 3 are loading the ammo.

Step 4: Finishing Up

Here, you will show you how to put in the magazine. Follow the notes. It should stay in fine, and you should be able to take it out afterwards. It works much like a bullet lock might.
After this, I will show you how to put the firing pin in the back of the gun and put on the rubberbands. Again, follow the notes. It will start to dig into a blue rod, but it is still completely usable afterwards. I recommend firing it dry about 6 times before loading it up just to loosen it up and get it working smoothly. Then add more rubberbands.

Step 5: Your TJOS1's

So, if you've built one, post a picture! It only takes a few seconds!
If possible, could someone try one in metallics? I don't have enough half moons to do it =/
Pictures 2-4: Pizzapie500 very kindly made it in metallics for me. Looks cool, huh?



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    143 Discussions

    The Jamalam~KGB~

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Lol, the entire insides are completely different, as are the handles, mags and bodies... OMG DEY R STILL DE SAEM

    The JamalamStorm950

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    How so? The handle is the most similar part, and that is completely different and more comfortable.

    Storm950The Jamalam

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Coz the body is the same length, width, looks the same. I'm not bothered, I just think you should just at least admit you had some inspiration off of the MeZak.


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    The two guns are like night and day. The mezak has gaps and I would not even use it as a secondary weapon. This gun is my first choice and I give the Jamalam props for making such a well rounded pistol.

    The JamalamStorm950

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    :O OMG DEY R DE SAEM because the body is the same length. 5 layers is extremely common. It's that length because the firing pin fits that length. Doesn't really look the same either.
    Why would I admit that if it isn't true?

    Storm950The Jamalam

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Not really. Have you seen most of my comments recently on this? If anything I'm being nicer and more constructive than I ever have been.

    Storm950The Jamalam

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Right if your going to be a child about it I don't really care. And Odin, why? It's not even my gun in question here.

    The JamalamStorm950

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    I was actually mocking you and what others have said here. One person said it, and other people think it's clever to copy them. Most probably haven't even seen the MeZak. I'm not childish.
    If anything, you are being childish for "insisting" that you get your own way.

    Odin spake the truth. (Eat my Shakespeare). You wouldn't be doing this if there were something in it for you.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    lol Sure so the MeZak can have credit for this while I can't have credit for every side arm that used the exact same things as my TDS?
    Almost all oodammo pistols are 5 connectors long because that's how long a gun can be to use a grey length rod without it not hitting. It's 5 layers just like other guns because it's stronger that way. The body is used on a lot of guns. The only part that looks a lot similar is the back of the gun. It don't really matter as the gun is pretty unique enough to not be a MeZak copy even if it drew any inspiration from it.