Table Saw Fence




Introduction: Table Saw Fence

In this Instructable I will be showing you how to make a new fence for your table saw. I recently got this new table saw and its great the only problem is that the fence does not run the full length of the table even when extended to its full capacity, also it had a tendency to bend away from the blade when making rip cuts which left me with cuts that were not square.

The new fence uses part of the old fence making it easy to clamp down the fence and also makes the whole fence move smoothly.

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Step 1: Materials

  • Table Saw with original fence
  • T-Square
  • 2 Bolts,Nuts and washers (I used the two wing-nuts, bolts and washers that was on the original fence)
  • Scrap Wood (I used Melamine for the fence runners and also some scrap plywood)
  • Drill
  • Drill bits, countersink and screws
  • Tape Measure
  • Pencil
  • Calipers (Optional)
  • Nail gun / Panel Pins and a Hammer

Step 2: Disassemble Original Fence and Mark New Runner

To start off rip two boards to the same length of your table saw table, I used Melamine as it is already finished and also I find that other materials can be pushed along it easily without getting caught up, however any material will do as long as its finished correctly.

Once you have two boards cut to length and a desired height its time to disassemble your original table saw fence, all i had to do was remove the two wing nuts from the back of the fence then simply take off the washers, remove the runner and the bolts. I reused the bolts, wingnuts and washers in my new fence.

Using your T-Square, square your new fence runner to the fence mechanism and mark where the holes will be drilled to attach the new runner.

Step 3: Drilling the Holes and Sinking the Bolts

With the spots marked for the holes to be drilled use your drill or drill press if you have one to drill a pilot hole and then the holes for the bolts. A drill press will ensure the holes are perfectly square however if you take your time with a hand drill the same result can be achieved.

Once the holes for the bolts have been drilled they need to be enlarged to allow the bolt to be sank into the runner so as it will not affect any cuts you make when the fence is finished, to do this I set a depth stop on my drill press and simply used a drill bit big enough to allow the head of the bolt to be sank into the board. I went just over half way into the board.

Step 4: Attaching the New Runner and Back Plate

Now with the new fence runner square to the blade simply attach it to the old fence mechanism using the bolts, washers and wing-nuts that came with the original fence.

At the back of the fence cut a piece of wood to what ever width you wish your fence to be, I made mine wide enough to hold my push sticks. Just ensure when cutting the height of the board that it is big enough to screw to the fence runner and also run along the back edge of the fence. This can be seen in the pictures above.

Once this piece has been cut; drill pilot holes, countersink and attach it to the fence runner with screws. If you use Melamine like I have ensure you drill a pilot hole in this too as it can split very easily.

Ensuring it is square attach the second board in the same way to the plate at the back of the fence.

Step 5: Attaching the Front Plate

With the two boards attached at the back its now time to attach them at the front, to do this cut a piece of wood to the exact width as the plate at the back and make the height match the height of your fence this can be seen in the images above. Once the board has been cut to the correct width and height attach it in the same way as before; drill pilot holes, countersink and attach with screws. Just ensure the fence runner is square to the blade and that the other board is also square.

Step 6: Capping Off the Fence

This step can be done in two ways you could;

  1. Measure the with and length of the fence and simply cut a piece of wood to the dimensions and attach it to the top of the fence
  2. Cut a piece of wood to fit the inside of the fence and attach it leaving a space to put push sticks so there easily accessible. This is the step I will explain

I started by measuring the inside distance using my calipers, transferred this measurement to a piece of wood and ripped it to the correct width and then measured the length of the fence and cut the board to length also.

I then used a nail gun to attach it at the front and back as well as once side of the fence, you may need to attach it in more places however where I have attached it is strong for all I will be resting on it.

Step 7: Finished Fence

Your now finished and have a new and improved table saw fence which will give you perfect cuts and not move out of alignment when making long rip cuts.

Thanks for reading :)

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    Poppy Ann
    Poppy Ann

    2 years ago

    Hi I am in the process of building a new work bench and have an idea of building in a router system and either a bench saw or radial arm saw when I have been researching bench saws they all state that the rip fence should not go past the centre of the saw blade to prevent pinching of the blade by the work piece causing kick back or even the whole work piece being thrown across the workshop now that you have one completed have you suffered from either?

    Regards Poppy Ann.