This will show you how to build a talon stryfe. This will turn your blaster into a half length nerf blaster only. This should be a detailed guide, however I don’t recommend doing this as your first mod, I would only recommend if you are experienced with modding nerf blasters (and by that, I don’t mean adding a more powerful battery to the side, or the odd spring replacement). Disclaimer: I can not be held accountable for any damage caused to your blaster or yourself, I am 13 years old and I managed to complete this mod without wrecking my blaster and if you are a child then I would ask an adult to do it for you. Please prepare before the mod and check measurements look right and add up to be right. With that over, let’s get into the build.
You will need:
A Nerf Stryfe (obviously)
Talon adapter (this can’t be removed from blaster)
Hot glue gun and glue sticks
Epoxy or putty
Cutting multi tool or dremel
Pencil (for lines)
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Step 1: Cutting Down the Adapter Into a Magwell
First of all, we need to shorten the adapter. To start, cut off the front but make sure that you leave the original wall that the talon mag slides into. You can see examples of this in the first few pictures and the last picture shows the guides of where to cut.
Once this is completed, cut off the back of the adapter yet again leaving the wall, examples of this are after the first few pictures and in the guided cut picture.
After the cuts are made, sand down the edges so that they don’t have any plastic sticking up and place the two pieces together and apply a small amount of hot glue on the edges that need and smooth it flat with your finger (wet your finger first to stop it sticking to you).
Then, make sure that the talon mag fits inside the magwell that we have just created.
Step 2: Small Modifications to the Blaster
Open up your blaster and remove all ribbing in the magwell so that we can fit in our new adapter in the future. The pictures have a guide showing what to cut.
Next, remove all of the locks, one of the pictures shows what locks to remove. The two orange locks should be easily removable, and the electronic lock can be unsoldered so the wires go directly to the flywheels, or you can glue it somewhere where it is out of the way against a wall of the blaster so that the button is pressed (test once it is glued in place to see if the flywheels still rev up)
After this, we need to make the magwell more square, this is shown in the pictures as the cut version and from that, you can see what to cut away. This is just so that the new adapter will fit inside.
Step 3: Drawing on the Lines to Cut
First, position the adapter inside the magwell to check that it fits. After that, we can see that there is a gap of 3.1 cm from the custom magwell to the side of the pre-existing magwell. Therefore, 3.1cm of shell needs to be removed.
My way of measuring was to get a ruler and align it with the side of the shell ridges that make space for the flywheel cage and draw a line downwards (this is shown by a blue line in one of the pictures), then hold it away from you to make sure that the line looks straight. Next, measure 1 cm left of this line (shown in picture by the green line). You can do this by measuring 1cm away from the line every 2 centimetres down the line as you go (to make sure the line always stays straight). After that, hold up the blaster again I o make sure that the line looks straight and that it is parallel to the first line that we drew. This will be the first line, you can now rub out the original line that we drew that was in line with the flywheel cage groove in the shell.
Finally, measure 3.1cm left from your primary line (green line in pictures) and draw another line. To make sure it is straight, measure across by 3.1 every 2cm that you go down the line and then hold it up once more and make sure that the lines are all straight and parallel. This is shown by a red line in the pictures. The line is also not to scale in the pictures, for a better idea of the finished product of for a scale line, please look at the second picture with the lines in.
Step 4: Cutting the First Half of the Shell
Please make sure that you are happy that your lines are straight and parallel with each other, that is crucial before the cutting or your shells won’t go together well.
From here, it is quite straight forward, just cut along the lines, if you have thick lines then cut on the inside of them. It is better that there is more left over at the end, than you have taken too much off and your blaster is unfixable.
When you have finished cutting. Make sure the shells line up straight and if there are any bumps or extrusions of plastic then sand them away until the shells fit reasonably straight together, remember not to take too much off.
Step 5: Marking Lines on the Second Half of the Shell
Now we have to cut the second side, make sure you follow the same principle of measuring across and moving down 2 cm and then measure across again and so on.
To get the first point of the line, I put the shells together and marked where the lines met at the top and marked a dot, the same for the second line.
Then I went back to the cut side and measured from the side of the magwell to my cuts, this will be different for you as the cuts are a bit uneven between different people, but for reference I measured 2.5 cm on the right side and 2.8 on the left, but this will differ slightly on your blaster.
Then I went back to the uncut side and drew these measurements across leaving dots at the bottom, and as this side is straight, all you have to do is join up the top dot with the bottom dot (using a ruler) and the same for the other side so you get two lines once again, then o checked my measurements at different points and checked that the gap between the lines was still 3.1cm and then I took off the cut shell from the uncut shell.
Step 6: Cutting the Uncut Side
This but should be straight forward as you have done it before already but remember that is you have a thick line to keep on the inside and chop more off later.
When you have finished cutting, sand the edges and fit the two halves together to make sure they fit reasonably straight and then put the half of the shell that we first cut, into the part that we have just cut and make sure that everything lines up okay.
After that, take the shells apart again and place the magwell inside, put the shells together and see if they fit well, then try putting in a magazine and see if the pusher gets caught or not, if it doesn’t then hang on and go to the next steps which should fix your problem.
Step 7: Final Adjustments
Almost on to the glueing now, but we need to just sort out one other issue that for me, prevented my magwell from fitting in properly.
First, there is a groove that needs to be removed, this is circled in red in the pictures.
You then have to cut a square out of the magwell that we made to account for the part of the shell (circled in blue) that stops the pusher from getting caught, remember to take small cuts at a time until the magwell fits inside and the pusher can push darts out of the magazine. Sorry that there are no cutting diagram pictures for this one, but I have marked the bit you need to watch out for.
After this, make sure that the darts get pushed into the flywheels okay. To finish, there is a small square to cut out of the battery tray to make sure the magwell fits straight. All I did was line up the magwell inside and draw around the top and then cut a small strip out.
Step 8: Glueing
To start, I used some Loctite all purpose hot glue sticks to bond the shell together lightly and so I could test to see if the blaster worked okay, which it did. And to seal it up I used some epoxy to fill in the gaps and to give a strong hold, and when it dried, I used epoxy putty on the weak areas (where it could actually fit) to strengthen it.
Step 9: Jam Door Cutting
To mark lines on the jam door, I put the jam door behind the blaster and in line where the front end would usually go and marked across where the back of the shell needed to go and then I cut it out and mirrored the cuts on the other side. After that I kept slowly cutting bits off until I was happy that it fit.
Step 10: Finished!
Now you should have a completed, working blaster, I sadly couldn’t figure out how to make a custom mag release for this but during testing, I found that the friction fit of the magwell was strong enough to hold in the magazine even when I shook it, it didn’t come loose. I put the original release button back in place to cover the hole though. If anyone comes up with a mag release for this thing, then please let me know so I can implement that into my design. Thank you, I hope you found this guide helpful and if there are any problems or enquires then please contact me and I will help you sort it out.