Test Your Gas Oven Ignitor for Continuity




Introduction: Test Your Gas Oven Ignitor for Continuity

The Scenario:

My gas oven will not turn on in bake or broil mode.  Since it is apparent that the control buttons and gas lines are working, my first guess would be the ignitor has weakened to the point where it is no longer able to send a signal to light the burner.  The ignitor needs to be taken out and tested for continuity.

Step 1: Safety First

Pull your oven gently from the wall.  Shut off the power by unplugging it and then turn off the gas.

Step 2: Gain Access

Remove the racks inside the oven and take out the bottom plate.  The bottom plate is generally screwed down inside to the base of the oven in the corners.  My particular oven has two hex bolts in the back corners, then I have to lift the back to an angle that allows me to slide the front lip backwards then up.  This will expose the bake burner and ignitor.

Step 3: Remove Ignitor

The ignitor is located in the back on the bake burner and has sensor wires that run below or behind the oven cavity.  Unclip the plugs by either removing the broiler drawer below or the back wall, then remove the ignitor by unbolting the ceramic bars metal shield from the bake burner.

Step 4: Come to TechShop San Francisco

Bring your ignitor to TechShop San Francisco.  As a member you can check out a multimeter from a staff member to test your ignitor.  Power your multimeter on and set to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance.

Step 5: Test for Continuity

Take one probe and place on one terminal, then place the other probe on the second terminal.  If there is continuity, your multimeter should register between 0-1100 ohms.  If your multimeter does not register in this range then your ignitor has lost continuity and needs to be replaced.

Like mine does.  

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    2 Discussions


    5 years ago on Introduction

    so my old one that is not lighting is at 158 Ohms, and the new one I ordered is registering zero ohms. Does that mean the new one is broken and my old one should work but does not?

    you see why i am confused. i know it looks like I typed that backwards but the new one is not registering at all and if Install it and its broken I will not get my refund. the old one is making my multi meter read 158 ohms though. I am wondering now if a new igniter is really what I need after all.


    7 years ago on Step 5

    THANK YOU! that was VERY informative and takes care of some of my paranoid thoughts...