The Apple DVI to ADC Monitor Adapter Model A1006

About: I usually end up doing an instructable because I have to figure out how to do something myself. I just get pictures during the process, and if it works out, BOOM, an instructable!

First, a standard disclaimer -

You could get cut getting the sticky plastic label off.  It's possible that while opening up the white case you will get a nasty pinch.  Your adapter may be possessed and decide to bite you!  There are voltages inside this little box that have unknown locations, so please be careful and make sure this adapter is unplugged before you attempt to rip it apart!

Now, a quick excerpt from Wikipedia that explains the ADC monitor connector - 

The Apple Display Connector (ADC) is a proprietary modification of the DVI connector that combines analog and digital video signals, USB, and power all in one cable. Apple used ADC for its LCD-based Apple Cinema Displays and their final CRT displays, before deciding to use standard DVI connectors on later models.

First implemented in the July 2000 Power Mac G4 and G4 Cube, ADC disappeared from displays in June 2004 when Apple introduced the aluminum-clad 20", 23", and 30" Apple Cinema Displays, which feature separate DVI, USB and FireWire connectors, and their own power supplies.

The ADC was still standard on the Power Mac G5 until April 2005, when new models meant the only remaining Apple product with an ADC interface was the single processor Power Mac G5 introduced in October 2004. This single processor Power Mac G5 was discontinued soon after in June 2005.

Once Apple decided to abandon the ADC connector around 2005, many people were stuck with really nice Apple Studio Displays that couldn't be used with a standard DVI connector.

Apple's solution to this was to sell an adapter that allowed you to connect your ADC monitor to a DVI output - so you could use it with newer Apple computers, as well as using it with a PC.

This 'instructable' is more like a 'take apart', since I won't be doing any modifications - just ripping it apart to see what's inside.

I did quite a few online searches and could not find any pictures of the internal components of the A1006 adapter, so I figured - why not put that information on instructables?!?

This was listed in the newspaper, and for a very reasonable price - they are still getting around $75 - $100 for them on ebay.  

The person told me that they were having to futz with the power cord - plugging it in and out of the adapter slowly, only halfway, etc. to get it to work.  Once working, it was fine until a power flicker or maybe a bump to the adapter.

When I went to pick it up the gentleman had decided that he didn't want to charge me anything for it because there was a good possibility that it wouldn't work.  I was happy with that, and agreed that if I got it working I would send him some $$.  

After lots of futzing with the power cord, trying a different cord, trying with a PC (a little easier to shut down and not cause any problems if you let the POST screen go for a bit), I could not get it to work.  It sounded like a loose connection with the power plug on the adapter, but after the following dis-assembly I couldn't find anything obviously fried.  

I'm now looking for more information on the power supply inside this adapter, so if you can add to the collective, please do!

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Step 1: Removal of the Stick-on Information Label

As I pried around on this little white square trying to get it apart, I noticed that the end where you plug in the power popped apart, but the end with the monitor cable coming out of it was not budging.

Using a sharp knife (CAUTION!) I gently placed the sharp edge of the blade in the small space between the label and the unit and gently pried up the stick on label until I could get my finger under it - then I gently pulled it off. 

You can see from the picture where the serial number shows through the window of the label.  The label is pictured sticky side up as not to ruin the sticky!

Step 2: Inside the Little White Square

Once the screws were out, I was met with a pretty well sealed 2 piece structure inside.

There are 4 screws holding the power supply (the upper part) in place.  Refer to the first picture on this step to see the locations of the  screws and the tape areas that need lifted.

I also removed the foil tape on the bottom part and popped off the top cover to reveal what I'm calling the USB / Video board.

Step 3: The Power Supply Removed

The power supply is contained in an aluminum box with screws on the sides under the copper foil tape on each side, as well as 2 screws under the pad (refer to the first picture on this step), and 2 screws on the power plug side of the power supply.

Some information is easily located on the sticker - 

Model - APi1AD48

Output voltages - 

26V DC 3.3A
5V DC 0.75 A

I did a decent amount of searching for the model number and I found very little helpful information.  It would be great to get the pinout voltages for the 6 wire power plug.

The second photo shows the case with the power supply removed.

I'm hoping that I can figure out the pinout voltages from the 6 wire power supply plug so that I can use an external power supply to get this baby working again.  Aside from being lighter, it will also remove all of that heat from inside the case.

Step 4: The Power Supply Board

After removing two fat short phillips tip screws (refer to the first picture in this step) which were a little loose anyway, the board comes away from the aluminum case, and you can take the plastic shroud off as well.

The grey pads appeared to have some sort of thermal paste in them, and there was residue on the heat sink which is above the plastic shroud, and on the other side of the shroud, which contacts these grey pads.  

I have never seen plastic used as a heat sink material, but it must dissipate heat somehow because the metal sink on the top cover had definitely been hot - just by looking at how chalky the heat sink compound had become.

The second picture is just a closer shot of the power supply.  Everything is glued in and together, so I think that fixing one of these would be difficult at best.

The last picture shows the bottom of the power supply board.  I found a little corrosion near some transistors, but nothing looked obviously fried.  There also is some heat sink stuff on the little plastic coated metal flap that is soldered to the board (see note in 3rd picture).

I haven't had time to test the voltages yet - but even that may be difficult because the power supply may be triggered by a signal from powering on the monitor or computer.

Step 5: All of the Pieces - Group Photo

This is a pic of all off the pieces in one shot.  Starting at the top and going clockwise - 

Top cover with the cushion pad stuck to it

Foil tape removed

Stick on label

Pop off metal top for Video / USB board

Top of power supply with heat sink in place

Bottom cover with Video / USB board in place

Center - Power supply board with bottom aluminum case piece attached

And, various piles of little screws!

Hopefully this will help someone decide if it is worth it to tinker around with this adapter or not.  

It may also satisfy some curious soul that has a working adapter, but has been wondering what's in the box...

If I manage to get it working, I will update this instructable with what I did.


Step 6: Pinout Information - the DVI Cable to the Internal Socket on the Converter.

Well, I ended up doing this for someone who needed the pinouts because their cable was cut.  Here is that information!

Thanks crakarjax - I hope you get yours connected up and working!

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    12 Discussions


    3 years ago

    being of the "old School" of electronics I see this alot with modern "wave soldered" stuff cold solder joints abound!! in everything from portable radios to cell phones!!!! get a magnified light and look around that connector. A friend of mine had a similar intermitent issue with her Roland G7 X keyboard (same type of power connector). seems that taking the cord in and out agravated some poor solder connections. I sat down with a stong light , a magnifiing glass and the eraser end of a pencil for over an hour and must have foud a dozen poor connections on the power supply board. !! most valve stuff was had built by people not machines so bad connections are rather rare. and usually happent after many years of use!!!! modern fast manufacturing ain't always the best!! slow down and build it right!!!!! Russ

    1 reply

    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for the tips! I've tried them, and several others as well, and it's still.... flaky.


    2 years ago

    Welcome to 2017!

    Unlike some things on the internet, old instructables are still just as useful now as they were when they were written!

    I check in now and then to update things that may not be clear, and to reply to comments.


    5 years ago on Introduction

    Thanks for your instructions and info- I didn't think I'd ever see the inside of that thing. Trying to get the Cinema Display Piece working; I forgot about that connection issue (half way in, half way out, all the way in, 3 feet out);I have a feeling I'll be back here

    2 replies

    Reply 3 years ago

    Hi rockyredbaron here......
    I'm trying to connect my apple Cinema Display 22 inch monitor to Abrams new mac mini computer Apple told me I need 3 cables to do this. First a adc to dvi cable then connect that to a dvi/ dvi cable, then connect that to a dvi/mini thunderbolt cable into the Mac mini computer. Am I on the right path???


    5 years ago on Introduction

    I'm wondering if you could help me. I have this adapter and it works fine- but I want to connect this monitor to my 13" Macbook (came out in late 2008, aluminum but not a Pro, has intel duo processor and all that). However I'm going to need some converters to get it to connect, any clue which ones I will need? I appreciate your help.

    1 reply

    awesome work, would be very interested in your results, I know that most of the Universities in my Area (Tennessee are constantly dumping the ADC LCD without these adapters, and the adapters still fetch a higher cost than the monitor can get.

    1 reply

    Yeah, and that's sad because they monitors are pretty nice - especially considering their age.. I'd grab those up and at least auction them - or maybe donate them!


    6 years ago on Step 3

    Hi, I just responded to another thread of yours here: . Hoping we can figure this bad boy out!

    1 reply

    Reply 6 years ago on Step 3

    crakarjax - yep, I hope we can crack this egg as well! Not much info online, so I figured I'd at least post pix of the insides and maybe shake some info loose.. Planning on getting those pinouts to you in the next couple of days.. I'll post them here as well in case it helps anyone!