First, a standard disclaimer -
You could get cut getting the sticky plastic label off. It's possible that while opening up the white case you will get a nasty pinch. Your adapter may be possessed and decide to bite you! There are voltages inside this little box that have unknown locations, so please be careful and make sure this adapter is unplugged before you attempt to rip it apart!
Now, a quick excerpt from Wikipedia that explains the ADC monitor connector -
The Apple Display Connector (ADC) is a proprietary modification of the DVI connector that combines analog and digital video signals, USB, and power all in one cable. Apple used ADC for its LCD-based Apple Cinema Displays and their final CRT displays, before deciding to use standard DVI connectors on later models.
First implemented in the July 2000 Power Mac G4 and G4 Cube, ADC disappeared from displays in June 2004 when Apple introduced the aluminum-clad 20", 23", and 30" Apple Cinema Displays, which feature separate DVI, USB and FireWire connectors, and their own power supplies.
The ADC was still standard on the Power Mac G5 until April 2005, when new models meant the only remaining Apple product with an ADC interface was the single processor Power Mac G5 introduced in October 2004. This single processor Power Mac G5 was discontinued soon after in June 2005.
Once Apple decided to abandon the ADC connector around 2005, many people were stuck with really nice Apple Studio Displays that couldn't be used with a standard DVI connector.
Apple's solution to this was to sell an adapter that allowed you to connect your ADC monitor to a DVI output - so you could use it with newer Apple computers, as well as using it with a PC.
This 'instructable' is more like a 'take apart', since I won't be doing any modifications - just ripping it apart to see what's inside.
I did quite a few online searches and could not find any pictures of the internal components of the A1006 adapter, so I figured - why not put that information on instructables?!?
This was listed in the newspaper, and for a very reasonable price - they are still getting around $75 - $100 for them on ebay.
The person told me that they were having to futz with the power cord - plugging it in and out of the adapter slowly, only halfway, etc. to get it to work. Once working, it was fine until a power flicker or maybe a bump to the adapter.
When I went to pick it up the gentleman had decided that he didn't want to charge me anything for it because there was a good possibility that it wouldn't work. I was happy with that, and agreed that if I got it working I would send him some $$.
After lots of futzing with the power cord, trying a different cord, trying with a PC (a little easier to shut down and not cause any problems if you let the POST screen go for a bit), I could not get it to work. It sounded like a loose connection with the power plug on the adapter, but after the following dis-assembly I couldn't find anything obviously fried.
I'm now looking for more information on the power supply inside this adapter, so if you can add to the collective, please do!
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Step 1: Removal of the Stick-on Information Label
As I pried around on this little white square trying to get it apart, I noticed that the end where you plug in the power popped apart, but the end with the monitor cable coming out of it was not budging.
Using a sharp knife (CAUTION!) I gently placed the sharp edge of the blade in the small space between the label and the unit and gently pried up the stick on label until I could get my finger under it - then I gently pulled it off.
You can see from the picture where the serial number shows through the window of the label. The label is pictured sticky side up as not to ruin the sticky!
Step 2: Inside the Little White Square
Once the screws were out, I was met with a pretty well sealed 2 piece structure inside.
There are 4 screws holding the power supply (the upper part) in place. Refer to the first picture on this step to see the locations of the screws and the tape areas that need lifted.
I also removed the foil tape on the bottom part and popped off the top cover to reveal what I'm calling the USB / Video board.
Step 3: The Power Supply Removed
The power supply is contained in an aluminum box with screws on the sides under the copper foil tape on each side, as well as 2 screws under the pad (refer to the first picture on this step), and 2 screws on the power plug side of the power supply.
Some information is easily located on the sticker -
Model - APi1AD48
Output voltages -
26V DC 3.3A
5V DC 0.75 A
I did a decent amount of searching for the model number and I found very little helpful information. It would be great to get the pinout voltages for the 6 wire power plug.
The second photo shows the case with the power supply removed.
I'm hoping that I can figure out the pinout voltages from the 6 wire power supply plug so that I can use an external power supply to get this baby working again. Aside from being lighter, it will also remove all of that heat from inside the case.
Step 4: The Power Supply Board
After removing two fat short phillips tip screws (refer to the first picture in this step) which were a little loose anyway, the board comes away from the aluminum case, and you can take the plastic shroud off as well.
The grey pads appeared to have some sort of thermal paste in them, and there was residue on the heat sink which is above the plastic shroud, and on the other side of the shroud, which contacts these grey pads.
I have never seen plastic used as a heat sink material, but it must dissipate heat somehow because the metal sink on the top cover had definitely been hot - just by looking at how chalky the heat sink compound had become.
The second picture is just a closer shot of the power supply. Everything is glued in and together, so I think that fixing one of these would be difficult at best.
The last picture shows the bottom of the power supply board. I found a little corrosion near some transistors, but nothing looked obviously fried. There also is some heat sink stuff on the little plastic coated metal flap that is soldered to the board (see note in 3rd picture).
I haven't had time to test the voltages yet - but even that may be difficult because the power supply may be triggered by a signal from powering on the monitor or computer.
Step 5: All of the Pieces - Group Photo
This is a pic of all off the pieces in one shot. Starting at the top and going clockwise -
Top cover with the cushion pad stuck to it
Foil tape removed
Stick on label
Pop off metal top for Video / USB board
Top of power supply with heat sink in place
Bottom cover with Video / USB board in place
Center - Power supply board with bottom aluminum case piece attached
And, various piles of little screws!
Hopefully this will help someone decide if it is worth it to tinker around with this adapter or not.
It may also satisfy some curious soul that has a working adapter, but has been wondering what's in the box...
If I manage to get it working, I will update this instructable with what I did.
Step 6: Pinout Information - the DVI Cable to the Internal Socket on the Converter.
Well, I ended up doing this for someone who needed the pinouts because their cable was cut. Here is that information!
Thanks crakarjax - I hope you get yours connected up and working!