Have you ever wished you could get up on stage and let out an earth shaking roar, rock out for your audience and then store all that sound up and go blow up some baddies with it? Well this is your chance. The Audio Tesla Pistol is a hybrid of a microphone and a sound wave focusing death ray. The power of the banshees at the mercy of your trigger finger... what more could you possibly want?
This is my first ever instructable... Feel free to let me know any thoughts on how to make the next one better!
Step 1: What You Will Need
The must haves include:
1 dremmel tool with a number of attachments
1 standard corded microphone with removable audio cable
1 or two audio wire converters (depends on how long your barrel will be)
1wooden gear or other thin curved item that can be cut. This will be the trigger.
Two pieces of pine wood corner molding of your choice. Make sure one has a grove cut into it so the other can set inside of it. You'll see what I mean when you see the store's selection of corners.
Scrap leather (the softer the better)
Upholstry tacks (I chose brass)
Sheet of address stickers (the kind you put on your mailbox)
1 sheet coarse sandpaper
1 fine grained sandpaper sponge
1 pullchain hanger of your choice. These are the things people put at the end of the chains that hang from ceiling lamps and fans to keep them weighed down.
Flat wooden accent shapes, at least two of each shape you chose. The will greatly determine the overall look of the gun, so chose wisely. (can be found in the wood crafts section of Michael's)
Three halogen bulbs or glass radio tubes
One tube two part quick set epoxy
Acrylic paint, brass, copper and steel colors.
Lots and lots of patience!
Once you have your whole list of items gathered, it's time to go to work...
Step 2: Begin the Handle Grip.
Get your pine corner molding and use your two part epoxy to set one into the other. Once the glue dries, Cut the top with your hack saw at a smooth angle. Look at a picture of a hangun to get a good idea of the angle you are cutting. Notice how the body of the gun isn't at a 90 degree angle from the grip. Now wrap your coarse sandpaper around your mic handle and tape it in place and use that sander shape to grind a grove into the top of the gun. This will need to be as straight as possible, this will be where your mic sets to form the body of the pistol.
Now hold the two wooden corners in your hand as if they were the handle of a gun and trace the location of your fingers and palm onto the wood. This will give you a guide for your sanding. Use your mic sander you just made ans slowly start to sand the grip down until your hand fits nicely into the groves you've made. Make sure you use your sandpaper sponge to smooth everything out and make it feel and look nice.
Step 3: Preparing the First of the Flair and the Trigger
Now get that trusty dremmel out and attach the cutting wheel. Use that to cut a path into the front of your newly carved handle grip where your trigger will sit. Make sure you take the measurement of the thickness of your gear or other item that you are using for a trigger. This is important.
Now, take your item (mine was a wooden gear I found on ebay, so I'll call it a gear) and chose how long you want your trigger to be. Mark the gear, and then very VERY gently start cutting it. If you see the picture, I used the other half of my gear to make the trigger more broad. I glued the two halves together (after cutting them down so there would be a thin tab still sticking out). I used my gorilla glue to keep these together.
Now, take your pullchain bob, or whatever you found, and measure the base of it where the chain connects. Snip the chain off and then use your barrel drill bit on your dremmel to bore a hole in the base of your handle where it will set.
Step 4: Paint and Grip the Handle
Now it's time for the paint. make sure you have cleaned the wood dust from sanding the handle completely off before you paint.
The first step is to plot the shape of your leather grip. Take your square of leather ans wrap it arounf the handle, pressing the material into all the nooks and crannies. use a marker to trace the shape you want into the leather, then remove it and cut. Make sure the edges are clean. Then take that shape and press it back onto the handle, and trace the shape on the wood with a pencil. Now you know where your leather will be, and it is important not to paint into that shape too terribly much. You will want to overlap the edges of that shape a little.
Brush a solid layer of Steel colored paint into the grip, let it dry, then start dry-brushing copper and brass separately until it looks like old tarnished copper. Once that totally dries, then take your leather, brush some two part epoxy onto the back so that every part is covered. Do it FAST because it will set on you if you're not careful. Immediately press the wet leather surface onto your handle carefully where you want it, and pack it into the crevices. Hold until set.
Then take your plumber's epoxy, smush up a good ball of it, and set some into the hole you drilled for the pullchain bob. Press the bob into the hole until you see some of the epoxy squish out the sides. Clean epoxy away from edge, and hold until set (about 5 minutes).
Once it;s all set and dried, use your upholstry tacks and lightly hammer them in (I found that I could just press them in with my fingers... it hurts a little though) Make a studded pattern around the outer edge of your leather, this will stop the material from coming up over time. It also looks pretty darn cool!
Step 5: Paint and Letter the Mic
So now we move on to to mic itself.
The next step is to set the mic into the handle's grove with two part epoxy. Be liberal with the glue, this needs to be a strong strong hold.
Then I laid some gold address stickers onto the side of the mice, to make it look like it had a big serial number on the side. Then I used my sandpaper sponge all over the gun and stickers (really gently!!) to make it all look buffed and aged, and to make the stickers look more like they were part of the metal. Then I cleaned the dust off and dry brushed a tiny little bit of steel colored paint over the whole thing. Then I covered the mic's reciever end up with plastic (very important) and sprayed it with a layer of matte finish.
Try attaching the audio wire converters to the tip now, and see how your gun will look.
The next step is the Wooden flourishes. I used two french curls and two fleurdelis. I cut the fleurs in half and glued them together back to back with gorilla glue to make two little wings. Then I painted them like the handle, only I used extra steel paint on the tips wo make them look a little more fun. Then (with lots and lots of patience) I glued them to the gun. Each piece had to be held in place very VERY carefully and once the two part epoxy set, I dripped more into the hidden areas and let it all pool and set to strengthen the hold. I thought these would be the weakest parts of the gun, but with enough of that magical epoxy, they quickly become the strongest!!
Step 6: Mounting the Bulbs
Unfortunately, I had no electrical knowledge, so these don't light up. They make a nice look though, and are consequently the most fragile bit on this gun.
I used a big fat lump of plumber's epoxy between the two fleurs that I hand shaped and then pressed the three bulbs into. Once the epoxy set, I painted it steel and drybrushed a little steel onto the bottom of the bulbs to make them fade into the clump nicely.
With all this done, you now have a nice little mic that can blow evil to bits! If everything was done right, this should still work as a mic. It's fun to hold it like a gun and sing into it. I imagine it would fit nicely into a band somewhere :)