The Ix (The Last Dragon Chronicles) / Budget Creepy Costume

The Ix. Perhaps you've never heard this name before. For good reason, because once you hear this dreaded beasts name, it'll all be over. You'll cease to exist. You will become the Ix. Perhaps it's better to surrender now to avoid this dreaded fate...

If you like creepy costumes and want to see how to make one, enjoyed reading The Last Dragon Chronicles by Chris D'Lacey, OR you want to know to make a scary costume on the cheap, continue reading.

Just don't say I didn't warn you.

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

Step 1: Creepy Route

If you're making a creepy costume, you need to look at creepy things (wow). Here are a couple of search results I used:

- Gargoyle

- Creepy Animals

- Creepy video game creatures/objects

- Hybrid creatures

- Supernatural creatures

After you have some images rattling around in your head, research what makes something creepy/creepy monsters. You should be able to recognize a pattern. It's not professional, but here's my list:

- Empty eyes/missing eyes/unusual eyes/multiple eyes

- Missing features/void features

- Tattered flesh/too much flesh/too little flesh/discolored flesh/monotone flesh

- Extended body parts/shortened body parts

- Missing hair/rotting scalp/open skull

- Warped animal characteristics/hybrid animals

- Dark colors/sickening colors/unusual colors (ex. FNAF)

My favorite creepy creatures are included above. For this project, I did unusual eyes, void features (as in top jaw and nose missing), tattered flesh, extended body parts, missing hair, hybrid animals, and dark colors, but don't copy exactly what I do, make your creatures even scarier!

Step 2: Ix Route

Now, if you're interested in the Ix route, let me fill you in. "The Ix" come from one of my favorite book series of all time: The Last Dragon Chronicles. Everyone should read this series at least once. I will warn you, the first book is a very sappy children's story, but halfway through book 2, the story completely flips upside down. You'll encounter ancient dragons, girls with fiery red hair and dragon eggs, alternate universes, evil sybils, everything you could ever want in a fantasy series. I won't say anything else, because its fanbase is too low and we need new members! Ahem. Onto the questions.

What are "The Ix?"

The Ix are non-physical consciousnesses that can inhabit physical bodies on Earth/beyond. Throughout the book series, they possess humans (including the main characters), dragons, wolves, unicorns, anything they can sink their being into.

What do they do?

The main goal of the Ix is to conquer. They tried to conquer the past and the future, so now they aim for the present. They are manipulators of time, space and morality. Once you surrender yourself to the Ix, you are lost forever.

What do the "Ix" look like?

They cannot be seen unless they possess flesh. When they possess humans, they look monstrous and tainted by poison. When they possess creatures, the creatures lose their minds, usually turn black/mutated, and grow vestigial wings/horns (sadly, I do not have any books on me right now, but if any diehard fans want to supply me with a few lines of description, I will post them in this Instructable!). Ix also can create darklings by inverting a dragon's "auma", or "fire tear" into dark fire, rendering it into a gargoylesque beast.

Why does your Ix look like this?

The Ix is such a powerful force, I imagined it could "commingle" with multiple beings at once and mutate them into something terrible. In this case, when the Ix tried to commingle on Earth, it caught a hawk, human and wolf, distorting them into this horrible beast you see today. It's ungodly, pure hell condensed into one being (alright, I'm being dramatic). Absolutely frightening.

Okay, enough talking. Onto the build!!

Step 3: Leg Skeletons

This seems like a hard step, but it's actually one of the more easy ones.

MATERIALS: TOOLS:

- 2 inch long PVC pipes

- 2-3 cans of Great Stuff

- 4 bolts and 4 washers

- 2 long bolts

- Duct tape

- Mattress foam

- Velcro strips (preferably 2 sided)

- Hot glue

- Small piece of metal for knees.

TOOLS:

- Hot glue gun

- Drill

- Dremel

- Something to tighten the bolts

STEPS:

1. ARM BASES:

1. The PVC pipes are way too long to walk with right now, so we're going to trim them. Cut your PVC pipes to the lengths you want them to be. Keep in mind, they shouldn't be too long, otherwise, you won't be able to walk. But they also shouldn't be too short, or they won't achieve the creepy look we're going for.

2. Practice walking with the arms. See where your hands naturally grab them and mark that spot with a marker. Repeat on the other pipe (be sure they're matching)

3. Drill through the marks you made, going through both sides so you have 2 holes in each pipe.

4. Spin a nut onto the bolt so it's close to the end-tip. Repeat with washer, so they're right next to each other.

5. Push the long bolt through the pipe.

6. Spin another washer and nut onto the other end of the bolt. Tighten them until they're squeezing the pipe.

7. Cut the pipes about 2/3 of the way down, or where you want the knee to be.

8. Attach/glue a piece of metal bent like a lightning scar into the pipes, and seal it in with Great Stuff. When it's cured, carve it to your liking.

2. ARM HANDLES:

1. Duct tape the bolt.

2. Cut out a small square of mattress foam, and cut a hole through the middle so the bolt can slip through. Trim the foam so it's more organic and easy to hold.

3. Hot glue the duct tape and slip the foam over the bolt. Be sure to squeeze it to keep it in place.

4. Now, onto the Velcro strips. Line up your arm against the pipe again, and wrap some Velcro around your arms to see how long the strips need to be. They should wrap around your arm + half again.

4.5 If you don't have double-sided Velcro (like me), you will have to glue/sew your strips to each other.

5. Turn the pipe around, so the mattress handle is flat against the surface you're working on. You want to glue your strips on this side so they can wrap around your arm securely.

6. Glob an enormous amount of hot glue onto the PVC pipe, then press your strip into it. Wait for it to cool, then douse it in glue again. Repeat 2 more times so your strips are spaced out evenly (1 strip towards the back, but not directly on it, 1 in the middle, 1 toward the mattress handle).

7. Strap yourself in, and go run around to see what it feels like! It will take some getting used to, and we don't want you to trip. :)

Step 4: Arm Flesh

MATERIALS:

- 2-3 cans of Great Stuff (I got mine at Lowe's for 3.59 per can)

- Something to lean the arms against

- Mattress foam

- Hot glue

- Velcro

- Marker

TOOLS:

- Exacto knife

- Hot glue gun

- Scissors

- Hot knife

STEPS:

1. BASE ARMS:

*Be sure to have something underneath the arms when you foam them! Great Stuff loves to drip over everything and make it sticky! Also, wear junk clothes, because once you have something like that on your shirt, give it a funeral because it's lost to this Earth.*

1. Find a place to rest your arms (hehe) while applying Great Stuff. Lean them against the surface.

2. Spray the GS in thin lines on top of the PVC pipe, starting from the bottom. Continue until one side is coated, and repeat for the other side. Now, go watch half of the first episode of Catch 22 on Hulu because it's a pretty fantastic show and I think everyone should see it. Plus, 22 minutes is the ideal drying time between layers (that's some catch).

3. Turn the pipe so you can see a clean side. Spray more thin lines. Repeat for the other arm, then wait. Do this until the entire pipe is covered, and you can't really see the white of the PVC pipe. By now the first can should be finished.

4. Repeat the thin lines until you've reached the desired thickness, making sure there is more at the top so there's a tapering effect.

5. Wait overnight/12 hours. Then, using a knife, hot knife, or anything sharp, carve the legs to your desired shape. My arms were uneven in certain places and had indents to represent muscle. **Make sure you save those carving scraps though, you'll be using them later!

Step 5: Legs

MATERIALS:

- Mattress foam

- Hot glue

- Duct tape

- Great Stuff scraps

TOOLS:

- Exacto knife

- Hot glue gun

- Scissors

STEPS:

1. This entire step is really just estimation, not a whole lot of thought. Just cutting and seeing what happens! With that in mind, get a large chunk of foam and split it in two, making sure the new pieces are of equal width.

2. Make those chunks triangles. Make sure one is smaller than the other. Trim them so they're more round than sharp. We'll be putting these on our thighs to give the illusion our legs are horribly positioned. This technique is called "digigrade legs", and is quite popular for werewolf costumes/fursuits.

3. Position the triangles onto your legs, checking in a mirror to see if that's where you want them. For the illusion, we want the smaller triangle to go behind your knee, and the larger one to go on your thigh.

4. Glue the triangles onto your pants with hot glue, pressing to hold them in place. Then, trim them more than you think you need to, because the next step will make them considerably smaller.

5. Duct tape large strips across the foam, making sure they're taut against your leg. Don't strangle your legs though, just push the foam down a little.

6. Use a 2 strips of mattress foam to make a "v" for your hips (very sexy ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) ). Glue them onto your leggings.

7. Wrap all the foam in duct tape, and then boom! We're done with the leg bases!

Step 6: Hands, Feet, and Claws, Oh My!

MATERIALS:

- Styrofoam

- Marker

- Slippers

- Large socks (preferably Army socks)

- Sewing thread

- Hot glue

- Magic sculpt (aha! You thought I couldn't sneak it in here!! Wrong!!)

- Mattress foam

- Cardboard

TOOLS:

- Hot glue gun

- Sewing needle

- Scissors

- Hot knife

STEPS:

1. FEET

1. Put the slipper inside your sock. Slip it onto your shoes and walk around a bit to get them adjusted to your feet. Carefully peel the shoes off your feet, being careful not to disturb the shape you gave it from walking around. 2. Sew the heel to the sock. Sew the top of the slipper to the top of the sock.

3. Trace the shoe against a thick piece of styrofoam. Draw 2 inches around it. Cut out the piece from the two-inch line. Repeat with the other foot, then cave out the inner area so it fits snugly against the slipper sock. Hot glue it to the slipper sock.

4. Cut out 2 thick foam rectangles, then cut one a little bigger. Glue them so they resemble the top of Tyr's rune (hello Dad, with the largest rectangle in the middle AND glue them so they aren't flush with the bottom of the shoe. This is to prevent some scraping of the feet on your walking surface. Use duct tape to keep them in place one they're glued.

5. Cut a couple of foam pieces to resemble knuckles of sorts. A diagram of the foot is attached if you want it to look exactly like mine.

6. Use a hot knife to carve them into bird-like feet. They'll look cartoony now, but under fabric and claws they'll look way scarier.

2. HANDS

1. Repeat the foam steps of the feet step. You're just creating another pair of feet, but without the slipper shoe.

2. Cut holes in the back of the hand, deep enough for the PVC pipe.

3. Squirt a ton of hot glue into a hand hole, then shove a PVC pipe into it. Hold the PVC like you normally would if you were walking, then wait until the glue cures. This will make sure it sits comfortably when you're walking. Wrap a few tight duct tape strips around it.

4. Add mattress foam around the pipe/hand joining region to make the transition smooth.

3. CLAWS

1. Cover curved pieces of aluminum with magic sculpt. They should resemble hawk claws.

2. Use water to smooth out the bumps so it looks shiny-ish. I forgot this step, so mine look lumpy.

3. If you are impatient (like me) preheat your oven to 300, pop those bad boys (claws?) into the oven and bake them for 15 minutes, making sure to flip them over halfway through.

4. When they're cooled, make holes inside the tips of your feet/hands using scissors. Then, fill them with hot glue and stuff the claw inside. Put a thin strip of magic sculpt on the outside and you're all set with claws.

Finally, glue a thin piece of cardboard/foam/fabric onto the bottom of the foot to keep it together.

Step 7: Chest/back Pieces

MATERIALS:

- Mattress foam

- Styrofoam

- Hot glue

- Duct-tape

- Velcro

- Button down shirt

TOOLS:

-Exacto knife

- Scissors

- Hot glue gun

- Hot knife

STEPS:

1. RIBCAGE

1. Grab another chunk of mattress foam and trim it into rib-like shapes (You should be an expert at shaping mattress foam by now!)

** If you are a woman, carve out indents for your breasts so the ribcage will fit more snugly against you.

2. Lightly carve the ribs with your hot knife, creating indentations for the ribs. Repeat again so they're even deeper/sharper.

3. Using an exacto knife, make the rib indentations even deeper. This will make the deep cuts more visible under fabric.

4. Unbutton the shirt. Then, glue two strips of velcro on either side of the shirt. This will make shimmying out of the shirt easier.

5. Put your shirt on and see where you want to glue the rib cage on. Remember, it doesn't have to be realistic, this is a monster after all! After you've lined it up, glue them onto the shirt.

6. Take a thin piece of mattress foam and glue it in between the ribs, gluing the two together.

2. BACK

1. Cut a hump-like shape from light styrofoam. While trimming, check in the mirror to see if it lines up with the curve of your back.
2. Cut indents along the curved end of the styrofoam to mimic a spine.

3. Glue it onto the side of the velcro strip that crosses over the other strip (or the one on top).

4. Use mattress foam to build up the back. They can be any shapes you want, see the attached pictures if you want your back to look exactly like mine.

5. After the back is built up, cut thin mattress strips. Then, glue them according to the ribcage in front and the spine in the back. Using two pieces for each rib (on each side), glue them so they look as if they're growing wider/more bowed as you continue downward. Glue the strips on until you run out of front ribs. This process took me two nights for the first half and one night for the second. It's tedious, but it'll look fantastic when we add the fabric!

3. SHOULDERS/STOMACH

1. This entire step is really just winging it. Cut two roundish chunks of foam for your shoulders.

2. Cut two ovalish shapes from foam. Cut them into two pieces so they resemble the provided picture.

3. Glue all those pieces onto your upper arms.

4. Trim a small piece of foam until its about the size of your fist, and about as thick as a banana. Glue it a little below your ribs. Make a small hole for the belly button. This gives the effect of a emaciated stomach, like the ribs and a small bit of stomach muscle is all that's left.

Step 8: Head and Jawset

MATERIALS:

- Mattress foam

- Hot glue

- Duct tape/fabric

- Tight fabric

- Styrofoam

- Polymer clay

- Magic sculpt

- Cardboard

- Balaclava

TOOLS:

- Hot glue gun

- Scissors

- Exacto knife

- Oven

STEPS:

1. JAW BASE

1. Cut half of a semi-circle out of styrofoam. Glue it to the jaw part of the balaclava.

2. Cut two semi-ovals out of mattress foam and glue them on either side of the jaw, angling slightly upwards. We do this to simulate the jawbone.

3. Glue a chunk of mattress foam on the end of the styrofoam, shaping it so it looks like a chin.

4. Adjust the jaw with strips of fabric and glue to make sure the head doesn't shake/slide down your face when you move it.

5. Glue a piece of styrofoam on the bottom of the balaclava's eyehole, exactly where the bridge of your nose would be. Glue another piece right above it on the top of the eyehole.

6. Stretch the tight fabric over the styrofoam, gluing as you stretch it. When you're finished, it will look a little like a tent, which is what we want.

7. Glue a large semi-circle onto the back of the head.

2. JAW SET

1. Cut a piece of cardboard so it fits the shape of the jaw. Then, trim it about an inch or two so it will be able to fit snugly inside the foam base.

2. Make some clay teeth (mine were blue originally, but they burned in the oven :( ) and bake them. Use any kind of polymer clay you want, then bake at 350 for 15 minutes (or before they start to brown.

3. Roll a snake of magic sculpt and press it into the cardboard around the edge. Make indents for the teeth and scratch lines in for details. When the sculpt hardens, use superglue and hot-glue to attach the teeth to the base.

4. Cut out the inside of the cardboard so you're left with just the magic sculpt/teeth. Then, glue the cardboard to the foam base.

5. Take strips of suede fabric and tear them so they look awful. Glue them onto the jaw in a peculiar way so they look like jaw-connecting ligaments. Leave a small gap when you glue them though because we need to slip lights through them.

Step 9: Lights

MATERIALS:

- Battery powered LED light strip

- Hot glue

- Batteries

- Cotton

- Tulle

- Black fabric

- Tight fabric

- Tape

TOOLS:

- Hot glue gun

- Scissors

STEPS:

1. EYES

1. Check if your lights work. This is important.

2. Figure out where the middle of your light strip is. Glue the middle to the on top of the middle of the head.

3. On each side of the head, glue a section of your light strip in a zig-zag pattern. I have an attached picture of what it should look like. Basically, we're just trying to get as much light in one area as we can. The folds make sure there's light in different areas so it looks more uniform.

3. Glue a thin, uniform piece of cotton stuffing over the lights. This balances and distributes the lights so they don't look like strips.

4. Glue a thin piece of tulle over the cotton.

5. Glue a piece of cardboard with a circle cut out of it over the tulle, pressing down to ensure it doesn't let too much light peek out.

6. Finally, glue some black fabric around the edges of the cardboard so all of the leaking light is gone. If you want some light to leak out, cut some holes on the fabric (seen in pictures above). Then, paint the cardboard black and repeat for the other eye.

2. MOUTH

1. Glue the left strand of the lights inside of the jawset, extending up to the jaw ligaments.

2. Glue cotton over the lights.

3. Glue stretched tight fabric over the cotton.

4. Touch up any glue bits with black paint.

Step 10: Skinning/Hair

MATERIALS:

- All parts from before

- Faux suede

- Faux hair

- Faux fur

- Mattress "skin"

- Paint

- Hot glue

- Adhesive spray

TOOLS:

- Hot glue gun

- Scissors

STEPS:

1. HANDS/FEET/ARMS

1. Cut a strip of mattress skin long enough for the legs (be sure to stretch the skin to get a better estimate of how it will fit against the leg.

2. Spray adhesive onto the leg/skin, stretch the skin over it, and press down firmly. Repeat until the entire leg is covered. To fit blemishes, apply some hot glue and hold the extra skin onto it.

3. For the feet, cut a piece larger than the feet themselves. Glue them by gluing the top of the feet, then cutting in between the toes (imagine cutting webs). Then, glue the excess fabric to the sides of the toes.

4. Spray-paint them black.

5. Using spray adhesive, spray strands of hair on the underside of the arms, then trim them so they look scraggly.

2. LEGS

1. This is tricky, because you have to glue a lot of the skin on while you're wearing the legs. Put a distracting show on because you will feel some of the hot glue get a liiiittle too friendly with your skin.

2. After you have most of the fabric on, use spray adhesive to add the rest.

3. Spray paint them.

4. Cut two rectangles of faux suede. Cut holes into them, and use a lighter to burn the edges and add an interesting effect.

5. Glue fur around the cuff of the legs.

3. CHEST

1. We are going for a very raggedy look here, because the Ix is trying to force itself into a physical body instead of a consciousness. Spray paint your foam and shirt black.

2. Cut up strips of suede and distress them with fire, paint, anything you can think of to make this creature look hellish.

3. Glue fur along the bottom of the shirt to make a fur "V". This will cover the top of your pants and make your form look less human.

4. HEAD

1. Cover the jaw with tight fabric. Glue chunks of fur onto it.

2. Cover the eyes with tight fabric (make sure you paint the cardboard first though!)

3. Cover the rest of the head in black cheesecloth/black burlap/ crappy dollar store black fabric

4. Add chunks of fur to the jaw, and strands of hair to the back of the head

5. Glue a collar of fur around the neck.

Step 11: Final Result/Tips!

If you made it this far, congrats! I highly doubt you'll be making this costume, but just in case, here are some tips!

- Use a black shirt for your shirt base, or a lycra suit to make everything easier.

- Use black fabric for skin texture so you don't waste so much spraypaint!

- Figure out where to use/store your battery pack in your costume before you decide on lights.

- Use EVA foam for feet instead of styrofoam, or your toes will break (no fun!)

- Have someone who knows cameras really well take your pictures (hehehe, just kidding, mom)

- BE SAFE WITH SPRAYPAINT!! Wear a mask when using it, and leave it somewhere overnight to air out. Keep your pets away from your project!

- Be okay with the results. You're on a budget, so it isn't going to look like a 2000 cosplay build. Someday, somehow, you'll have the funds for it, and you can cosplay your cold, dead heart out! Be proud of what you managed to accomplish! :)

If you enjoyed this Instructable, please give it a vote!! Thank you!

Book Character Costume Challenge

Participated in the
Book Character Costume Challenge

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Instrument Contest

      Instrument Contest
    • Make it Glow Contest

      Make it Glow Contest
    • STEM Contest

      STEM Contest

    Discussions

    0
    None
    attosa

    4 weeks ago

    Wow! That is certainly creepy! Good job!