Introduction: The Last Clamp Rack You Will Ever Build
Most clamp racks that you will find, even in the big box stores, are just simple construction and really only give you minimal storage for the most common clamps. However, what about the uncommon kinds that aren't able to hang like your F style or K body clamps. I have even had the basic kind of clamp rack that I built. After loading them up and seeing how much wall space it took up. I decided to go another route and find a way to accommodate my more uncommon clamps. Thus, the Ultimate Clamp Rack Cabinet was born.
Step 1: Measure Your Clamp Distances
Begin by measuring your clamp bar distances and finding what is the tightest tolerance you can get to allow another set of clamps to fit between them. With my current clamps, 2 3/8" works the best. That way you will know how far apart to make the slots on the brackets for the top section. The bottom section brackets will have the tighter tolerance slots for offset clamps to fit in between.
Step 2: Batch Cut All Grooves/dados
Once all the pieces are cut for the side cabinets, doors and middle cabinet; it is time to break out the dado stack and start batch cutting your grooves and dados. All side pieces of the side and door cabinets will have dados to accept the top brackets and middle brackets. There is also a 1/4" groove ran down the back of the ALL side pieces to accept the mounting cleats. The mounting cleats all have and offset tongue to be accepted into the groove and there will be 4 per cabinet except the center cabinet, which has 3. The top and bottom mounting cleats are also led into the top and bottom of each cabinet with a 1/4" groove to accept it (just like the back groove). These joints will offer great stability for each cabinet.
Step 3: Assembly
Now that all the dados, grooves and mortises for the dowels are made, you can then assemble it. It goes together like a puzzle which is great for dry fitting them together first. The dowels are for the center cabinet which holds the non essential clamps like spring, C, and quick grip clamps. Make sure the brackets but up to the mounting cleats so the mounting cleat is seen on the top surface of the clamp bracket. Use good glue and screws to reinforce the joints so it doesn't rack.
Step 4: Drawers and Hinges
Go back to your dado stack and batch cut grooves and dados for your lock joint drawers. The fronts will be led into the drawer sides and the bottom will be led into all four pieces. Using 14" full extension slides, mount them into the lower cavity in the center cabinet section. After that, place the doors on top of the side cabinets and butt them up to the center cabinet. Use 4" hinges with 1/4" barrels times 6 (3 on each door) to mount the doors to the cabinet. If mounted correctly, you will have a nice friction fit to the center cabinet to hold them shut when you are not needing them open. Now you have a functioning clamp rack cabinet.
Step 5: Wrap It Up With Paint!
Now you all you have left is to make the door fronts. Cut two pieces of 1/4" plywood to be undersized of the actual door. Then cut a 1" frame (mitered) with a rabit to accept the plywood. Attach that to the doors with glue and nails. If you prefer, like I do, give it a paint job making sure not to get paint on the inside of the side cabinets or doors. Also do not expose the friction fit sides to paint as this will cause a sticking problem. Then mount it to the wall with 4" lag screws with a coarse thread. I used spax screws with a star drive head. Shut it up when you are done and kick back and enjoy!
Alternatively, you can paint the panels with chalk paint or replace it with dry erase board.
Please view my video to help you understand it even more! Thank you for viewing my first instructable. BOOM!