The Versyloraptor Phase 1 - Kawasaki Versys Streetfighter Custom Motorcycle

The vision for the Versyloraptor was to modify it to look badass – as well as allowing it to be restored to original without too much fuss.

Phase 1 is replacing the headlight

Note: It's best to connect up all your wiring to see if there's anything missing before it's too much work to reverse it. Skip ahead to step four, and do the first 3 instructions – so can put your fairing back on and tell everyone you're working on your bike next weekend if something's been missed.

Later phases

Phase 2 is sorting out luggage
Phase 3 is tidying up the rear-end
Phase 4 is redesigning the handlebars and cockpit

Latest updates here

Step 1: Removing Fairing

The first thing you'll need to do is remove the fairing.

You'll need:

your Versys manual: all the Versys manuals you'll ever need
your under-seat toolkit (though I bought a new allen/hex key to get a bit more leverage)

Follow the instructions to remove the fairing along the sides and front.

You'll notice the horrible exterior coolant tank. Replacing this is the next step.

Step 2: Replace Exterior Coolant Tank

There are a few ways to replace the tank. See the diagram (coolant tank 1 is the original): All you need is to have the 'x' pipe completely submerged in coolant and connected to the radiator and the 'y' pipe able to expel boiling coolant.

You'll need:

A container that can handle hot coolant. The original tank holds approximately 280mls at the low line and 300mls at the high line. My first tank held a total of around 500mls and was built out of Compression irrigation parts, but I've since upgraded to an aluminium bottle that holds 650mls before coolant boils out.

New hose (available from auto stores, bring along a cut of yours to make sure it's the same diameter before buying – mine's similar to this: Supercheap Auto overflow hose).
Sealing tape and Silicone tape for waterproofing.
A mix of hose clamps (or worm-drive clamps) to fix the new tank to the motorcycle frame.
I also added cuts of rubber from a bike tyre tube to sit between the tank and motorcycle frame.
I also added a window made from vinyl tube to see the coolant flowing.
Barbed drippers or joiners to connect the vinyl tube to the heavy-duty pipe section.
Toolkit

Instructions

Test your new coolant tank is waterproof and has the required liquid capacity (a total of approximately 600mls)
Drain coolant from original tank.
Remove hoses.
Remove the original tank by unscrewing bolts.
Drain coolant from original hoses.
Fill new coolant tank with 350mls of coolant.
Fix new coolant tank body to motorcycle frame with clamps (inserting cuts of rubber where it meets frame).
Attach lid to new coolant tank and connect hoses.
Start engine and see if coolant flows > video.

Note: The vinyl hose in these images needed to be shortened and reinforced as the heat bent it. I inserted it into an overflow hose segment and cut a window in the hose segment to see the coolant flowing.

Step 3: Relocate Dashboard

To relocate the dashboard, you'll need to disconnect the original indicators and headlight, as well as the Upper Fairing Bracket (see manual). Then you attach the dashboard to the handlebar clamp. The end result isn't that pretty, but was a necessary step to make the Versyloraptor ridable, as modifying the handlebars and cockpit will come later – and it's all mostly covered up under the new windscreen anyway.

You'll need:

Instructions

Remove windscreen and fairing around headlight (see manual).
Disconnect dashboard, indicators and headlight cables. RECORD POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE WIRES! The headlight requires a bit of elbow-grease. The big rubbery plugs can just be pulled out, though a screw driver might help to get some leverage between the parts.
Unscrew the Upper Fairing Bracket bolts and remove it.
Remove the dashboard from the Upper Fairing Bracket and it's fairing > video.
Screw shelf brackets onto back of dashboard using original screws > video.
Stick tape to handlebar clamp where the dashboard will touch.
Balance dashboard on handlebar mount using shelf brackets. Use cable ties inside shelf bracket holes to tighten dashboard against handlebars.
Reconnect dashboard cable > video.
Fire up engine and test it's still working!

Step 4: Mount Headlight, Indicators and Windshield

Almost there! We'll now tidy up the front. Make sure you know which wires are positive and negative – a multimeter is handy for troubleshooting, but trial and error works too.

You'll need

Fork brackets (for Versys 51mm forks)
Indicators
Kawasaki indicator leads
Headlight
Electrical terminal blade connectors
Windshield
Electrical conduit
Drill and 10mm drill bit
10mm long 8mm bolts to replace original short headlight bolts (available at any hardware store)
8mm nuts (as spacers between windshield and headlight – and available at any hardware store)
Electrical tape (available at any hardware store)

Instructions

Connect indicators: Connect the new indicators to the indicator leads to original motorcycle connectors.
Connect headlight: Connect headlight wires to electrical terminal blade connectors to original motorcycle connectors.
Start motorcycle and test headlight, highbeam and indicators are working. Make sure you haven't mixed up positive and negative wires, a multimeter is handy for troubleshooting.
If your fork brackets can't take the 10mm bolts from the indicators, you'll have to drill out the rear-most hole to enlarge it > video.
Slide fork brackets onto a slim section of the forks then slide them up – approximately between the upper and lower fork clamps.
Attach indicators to fork bracket and ensure wiring is connected > video.
Space 2 nuts between headlight and bracket, then attach windshield bracket on other side of bracket. From the headlight on each side; the order will be 2 nuts, fork bracket, windshield bracket. Screw in bolt.
Align lights and windshield before final tightening of screws.
Use electrical tape and electrical conduit to cover and protect wiring.