What LEGO fanatic doesn't want to become a human LEGO brick? In this Instructable we'll walk you through the steps we took to transform a cardboard box and some circular boxes into a human LEGO costume.
Step 1: Tools and Supplies
Supplies and tools needed:
One cardboard box large enough to fit over the costumee's torso
Six round craft boxes - We used 7" boxes but depending on the size of the wearer or the type of brick you are replicating you could go smaller or larger.
Hot glue gun and glue
Duct or packing tape
Step 2: Find an Appropriately Sized Box
The LEGO gods were smiling upon us because we had ordered a couple dog crates a few weeks previous to thinking up this idea and the box they came in was the perfect size. Other sources for boxes include U-Haul shops, home improvement centers, and moving and storage companies. If you know far enough in advance that you want to make this costume you should have no trouble coming up with the perfect box.
As an after thought, our box seems to be made of thicker cardboard than your standard moving and storage box so if your box seems a little flimsy you might want to think about reinforcing it on the inside with thin strips of a light wood or cardboard using hot glue.
Step 3: Find Round Boxes for the Studs
We found round boxes at our local craft store. We were lucky again in that they were on sale for 50% off. How many you buy depends on what size your box is and the specific LEGO brick you are replicating. We bought six round boxes as we were making a 2 x 3 LEGO brick.
We didn't use the lids so we are saving them for a project to be determined later. We did talk about using three on the back of the costume to make it look like the underside of a LEGO brick but since the costume was already finished by the time we thought of it, we decided against it.
Step 4: Secure Flaps
We started by securing the flaps inside the box with tape to help stabilize the box and to keep the flaps out of the way when walking around or when putting the costume on or taking it off. In the end this didn't work very well as the duct tape peeled away from the cardboard over time. Once the costume was finished we ended up having to remove the tape and we secured the flaps using hot glue, which worked great. So from the start we recommend you secure the flaps with hot glue. Packing tape could possibly work better than the duct tape did but we didn't test that out.
Step 5: Cut Off the Bottom End of the Box
Before we taped up the long flaps of the open side of the box we cut off the bottom end of the box using box cutters.
Step 6: Closing Up the Box
With one end cut out we taped up the open panels on the outside and inside and secured the flaps some more using duct tape. Because of the problem we had with the duct tape we eventually decided to remove the tape and hot glue the flaps down.
Now we had a box with one open end that would serve as the bottom of the costume.
Step 7: Make the Head Hole
Centering an 8" plate on the top of the box we drew a circle as a template for the head hole and cut the hole out with the box cutters.
If we were to do it over again we might have gone with a more oval shape so the head would fit from front to back with no problem and there would be more cardboard on the sides to rest easier on the shoulders.
Step 8: Make Arm Holes and Handles
Using a ruler and pencil we marked the center of each side of the box. Using a pint glass as a template we centered two circles about six or eight inches apart with the top circle about two inches from the top of the box and connected the circles with straight lines. As this did not look like it would provide a large enough hole for the arms we widened the template by about an inch on each side and freehanded the curves to connect the two lines. We then cut out the arm hole with box cutters.
Since we knew that the costume wearer would not always want the weight of the costume on his shoulders we decided to put handle holes on the side so the costume could be lifted and controlled when in motion.
To make the handle hole we measured six inches down from the bottom of the arm hole and centered a one inch tall rectangle that was as wide as the arm hole. We then cut it out with the box cutters.
Step 9: Layout Where the Studs Should Go
Previous to buying the round boxes we had figured out from the size of the box what the best approximate size of the "studs" should be. Our box was 30" x 20" so we figured round boxes between 6" and 7" would work well for making a 2 x 3 LEGO brick. Luckily we found six 7" boxes on sale at our local craft store. There were also 5" boxes available which might have worked for a 2 x 4 LEGO brick but we were already set on making the 2 x 3.
Once we knew the size of our "studs" we could lay out in pencil where they would go. Since the width of the box was 20" that meant each flap was 10" wide. So we marked the center of each of the two flaps (5") at both ends and drew a center line down each flap.
Then we had to do some math. The height of the box was 30". The total width of the "studs" was 21" (3 x 7"). Subtracting 21 from 30 gave us the remaining space, 9". Since we needed even spacing between the "studs" and also between the two edges of the box, we divided the remaining space by 4. So 9" / 4 gave us 2.25". So, starting at one edge of the box and measuring along the center line we made earlier we marked off 2.25", then from that point 7", then from that point 2.25", etc. until we reached the other end of the box.
Then we used the ruler to find the center point (3.5") of each of the 7" areas, and turning the ruler 90 degrees, we marked 3.5" inches on each side of that center point. Then using one of the round boxes as a template, we lined the box up with the marks and traced around them to give us guidelines for gluing down the "studs".
Step 10: Glue on the Studs
For each stud we placed small dabs of hot glue at the four sides of one of the circles we had drawn and then placed one of the round boxes, top down, on the hot glue. We made adjustments as needed before the glue hardened. Once it hardened we ran hot glue all around the stud where it touched the cardboard box. We were pretty generous with the hot glue, allowing some of it to "inject" under the stud in order to get a nice seal.
Step 11: Paint the Costume
Once the glue was dried and we made sure the studs were holding we took the costume outside and painted it with Deep Blue Rust-Oleum spray paint. It took two coats using a can and a half to get good coverage. Your mileage may vary. Make sure to follow the directions on the can and to paint outdoors or in a well ventilated place.
We let the costume dry overnight and it was ready to go!
Step 12: Ready for the Big Night!
Halloween as a LEGO brick could only be better if people gave out LEGO instead of candy!