The Making of ��� (pork Belly)




���(pork belly) This is the nineteenth knife I made. It is sitting on a piece of  channel iron (3 1/4" X 1 1/2" and 1/8"  thick) of which the knife is made

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Step 1:

Step One: I drew out a design on Bristol board and cut it out using a utility knife.  Then held it to see if it feels good and made any adjustments.

I  laid my pattern on the material and traced around it with a marker. I am using a piece of  channel iron (3 1/4" X 1 1/2" and 1/8"  thick) that I got as scrap at work.


Step 2:

Step Two: I cut out the pattern with a "Dremel" type rotary tool, using the fiber type cutting discs (The fiber discs last a lot longer than the cheap ones). I use a rotary tool rather than an angle or bench grinder, as you can get allot closer to your pattern, and it do not tend to over-heat the material.

Step 3:

Step Three: I have finished cleaning up my pattern. I using a 1X32 belt sander and disk sander, plus a drum sanding kit on my drill press.

Step 4:

Step Four: I have drilled holes in the handle section to pin my handle material; shallow holes in the handle section to help my glue stick; and milled decorative holes in the blade section. Then sanded the material down with Aluminum Oxide sandpaper, starting with 80 grit and working down to 400 grit (I only sanded the handle section with the 80 grit to remove the rust, leaving a rough surface to help my glue to stick). bevel the edges of the blade using a 1X32 belt sander.  Finally polished the blade section with black, green and lastly blue polishing compound using buffing wheels on my drill press.

I would now temper and heat treat the metal if I had access to a kiln, and then have to re- polish the blade.

Step 5:

Step Five: Materials for my handle; 3/4" X 1/8" brass salvaged from windows from the local hospital being re-modeled (for the front and rear bolsters); a reddish tint wood from a pallet from work ( the scales); and 1/8" brazing rod (for the rivets/pins).


Step 6:

Step Six: I cut two sections of the brass rod for each of the bolsters, and two sections of the wood  for the scales.  I need two identical pieces for each part, and have the pin holes line-up. I used an old carpenters trick, using two way tape and taping the sections together before drilling and cutting.  The handle shape was traced on the wood and then rough cut on my scroll saw. {Make sure you file down and sand the end of the bass in the ricasso area (where the handle meets the blade). Once it's glued you won't be able to shape it any further.}

Step 7:

Step Seven: I taped the blade of the knife right up to where the scales are going to be glued. I always make sure the blade is covered tight to where the handle is going to start, as it saves a lot of time of cleaning up glue that can get on the blade.

Using 5 minute epoxy coat one side of the knife tang, then put your rivets in place, and slide the corresponding side of the handle in place, and clamp for 5 to 10 minutes.  Then glue and clamp the second side. I did this for all three sections of the handle.

Step 8:

Step Eight: I have every part of the handle glued in place.

Step 9:

Step Nine:I  now have all the sections glued to the tang. I used my wood rasp,1X32 belt sander and disk sander,  drum sanding kit on my drill press, and palm sander to shape the handle. I sanded everything down to 400 grit.  You have to be careful not to overheat the brass in this step as it can burn the wood and glue.

 You may note the rear bolster is missing.  I did not like the results so I removed it.


Step 10:

Step Ten: Another knife finished (almost) I taped the wooden parts of the handle and polished the brass, and in turn taped the brass part of the handle and put four coats of varnish on the wood. Now all I have to do is sharpen the knife and make a sheath for it.


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    14 Discussions


    6 years ago on Step 10

    This looks beautiful. Do you actually peen the brass pins over to make them structural, or are they only decorative?

    2 replies

    I know it's not my instructable but he seems to have done what I do. The pins just provide directional support. Most custom knife pins are not peened over, contrary to some belief.

    The brass pins are not for decoration, nor do I peen them. They do provide support to the scales. I flute the pins and glue them, and find they have yet to fail


    6 years ago on Step 10 this is badass...

    anyone else?

    nice work tex!


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    This is how I made my (hugly) one. Be sure to use INSULATING (type jm23) briks:


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    I forwarded him those planes long ago. He's one of those people whom like to do everything as safely as possible. I doubt he will ever hand build a kiln. It makes me sad. This is what he helped me build when I visited him ( he's my father )


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Well, that kiln is not designed to be sasfe, that's true. Still I've been using it for 2 years now with no problem at all.
    It can't esplode, nor can catch fire is you don't put flamable materials there.
    The main risk comes from electricution, but it's easy to avoid if you do it right. You can add a circuit breaker (is that it's name?) that will cut power when he detects a short circuit or such.
    Or you could do it with a forge... many ways to do that.
    Another solution, even better, could be to send it over to some het threat company and have it done for you.

    BTW: very nice job of yours !!


    6 years ago on Introduction

    what about heat treating, and tempering? what sort of steel is channel iron?


    6 years ago on Introduction

    That looks really nice - how well does "channel iron" (a term I've not heard) keep an edge?