To get the headlights to move as you want, you need to rout wires from the motors to a controller circuit and a switch from the controller to the dash!
So lets get started:
Her is what you need:
- 5-core wire (at least 1.3mm^2 or 16AWG) that is HEAT RESISTANT
- any 3-core wire (for the switch)
- 2 momentary switches
- Zipties also HEAT RESISTANT
- M3x16 screws and nuts
- M2x16 screws
+ various electronic parts for the contriller board (explained later)
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Step 1: Step 1: Get the Controller Ready (the Hardest)
1. Look at the Schematic.pdf! Buy all the parts you need to solder the the board.
2. Let the PCB manufacturer of your trust make the gerber_headlight.zip file. After you receive the board, solder the components to it according to the schematic. I have also added the project file if you want to modify it: HeadlightController.rar!
3. Print the case and cover with your 3D Printer, and assemble it.
4. Flash the arduino with the provided software!
You can contact me, I can give you the PCB for free (you need to pay shipping). I can also supply the parts or the ready made controller. For this I have to charge the coast for the parts.
Just DM me on reddit: u/LOL_Meister_97
Step 2: Step 2: Wiring
Look at the disassembled motor!
There are 2 wires for power and 3 for the sensor. You need to hook them up to the controller. So: Disassemble your front bumper, disconnect your battery. Disconnect the motors from the original wires. I then cut the 5 pin connector off and soldered it to my new wire. The old wires need to be waterproofed and isolated, because there is still voltage!! Also waterproof your soldering connection with heatshrink layers and waterproofing paint! Run the wires through the engine bay like you see in the pictures. Facing the car from the front, you see in the back left corner a rubber boot with wires running through it. You will feed yours through there. The will appear under the passenger side footarea. That is also where you will place the controller (again see the pictures). For the correct connection please refer to the picture.
Make sure to mount the wires securely. For that purpose are the hooks on the case. You don't want them to get ripped out!
Run the switch wires under the middle console to the dash where you mount the buttons! The left button connects to the terminal marked "BLK_L" the other to "CTR" the switches ground out if pressed through the ground terminal.
Step 3: Step 3: Powering the Controller
The controller needs 12V power. I run a hotwire from the battery to the controller, the same way as the other wires. The powerline gets fused 30A! As ground you can use any chassis ground you like. I used a screw under the footarea.
Now the important stuff: You do not want the controller to be on 24/7 because this will empty your battery over time. Therefore I run a wire from the ignition (use the one for the radio), that is only 12V when the car is on and floating if off, to the controller. I connected the motor power nit from the controller but directly from the hotwire. If you have a high current switched power source you can connect everything through the controller. Do not use the wire from the ignition to power the motors directly, they pull too much current and damage the switch!
Sorry for the awful image, but you know the deal, under there it is hard to work and even harder to take pictures.
Step 4: DONE
Enjoy your winky eye mod!
- Single press any side: open
- Long press any side: close
- Double click right: wink right eye
- Double cloik left: wink left eye
- Both at the same time: half open 'sleepy eyes'
Planned for future software update to use tristate rocker switch:
- Single press left: wink left eye
- Single press right: wink reight eye
- Long press any side: open if closed, close if opened
- Double click right: half open 'sleepy eyes'
- Double click left: force open