This Instructable can be as short as three sentences or as long as 30 pages depending on if you are advanced or beginner crocheter. It is written with complete beginners in mind. It took me a whole month’s every minute of free time to finish it. I may have hundreds of unfinished projects in my work space. In the end I can say at least I have finished one project. Hope it will encourage you to start and finish a same or similar project or decide to devote your time to a different one.

Before I started this project, I had had no experience of crocheting at all. So it is written with description and detailed photos of each action and step for beginners. For people with intermediate to advanced experience, you can just glance through and still get the idea of it.

If you like it in any way, please vote this Instructable for a chance to win Warm and Fuzzy contest.

Here are Materials Used:

Size H aluminum crochet hook

4 colors of worsted wool yarn (warm and fuzzy!)

Stitch marker or alternative (optional)

Scissors

Tapestry/Darning needle

Tape measure

Calculator

Clip or alternative

Cardboard or alternative

Below are standard Terms, Abbreviations(in parentheses), and Symbols (used in this Instructable)

slip knot

begin(ning) (beg)

loop(s) (lp(s))

pattern (patt)

repeat (rep)

round(s) (rnd(s))

skip (sk)

slip (sl)

space(s) (sp(s))

stitch(es) (st(s))

yarn over (YO)

Symbols for chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), double crochet (dc), ch 4, ch 3, ch 2 and 3 dc are illustrated in next step.

Other symbols

( ) Parentheses are used to enclose instructions which should be worked the exact number of times specified immediately following the parentheses, such as: (inc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts) 6 times.

[ ] Brackets (and/or parentheses) are used to provide additional information to clarify the instructions preceding the brackets, such as: 2 hdc in next st [inc made] or ch 2 (counts as one hdc).

= The number after an equal sign indicates the number of sts you should have when the row/rnd immediately preceding the equal sign has been completed.

† A pair of daggers is used to identify a portion of instructions in a row/rnd that will be repeated again later in the same row/rnd, or sometimes referred to later in the patt.

* An asterisk is used to mark the beg of a portion of instructions which will be worked more than once; thus, "rep from * twice" means after working the instructions once, repeat the instructions following the asterisk twice more (3 times in all).

Step 1: Draw a Diagram of a Traditional Granny Square of 4 Rnds

It’s of great mental preparation to draw a diagram of a traditional granny square of 4 rnds I think before taking out the mind winding yarns out. The diagram is like a blueprint.

Use standard symbols for chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), double crochet (dc), ch 4, ch 3, ch 2 and 3 dc to draw the diagram. These are all one needs to know to do this project.

Step 2: Find the Right Yarn End to Begin With

Trying to untangle a ball of yarn may make one want to pull their hair out. To avoid that, it's important to start with the right yarn end to begin crocheting-the end that comes out of the center of the ball, when in use, yarn ball stays still, doesn't roll around.

To find the right yarn end to begin with, First, locate the wrong end-yarn end which is obvious going on the outside into the center hole on one end of skein. Second, find the yarn end coming out of the center hole on the other end of skein-the right end to begin with. Sometimes you have to pull the mess that’s stuffed in the hole to find the yarn end to use. Place the skein standing in a container and you are set to go.

Step 3: The Whole Bedspread Starts With a Slip Knot

Make a sl knot on hook with first color to begin, leaving a 6 " end'.

One way to make a sl knot is to wrap yarn around your middle finger with working end on top and tail end on bottom, insert hook under tail end, catch working end, pull a loop on hook, slip yarn off your finger, pull working and tail end of yarn to tighten the knot on hook, sl knot made and done.

This simple beginning is harder than it looks. My daughter was interested in learning it. After a few trials, she gave up.

Step 4: Making Center Ring: Thread Yarn on Left Hand, Hold on Sl Knot/working Stitch With Left Hand and Hold Hook With Right Hand

Thread yarn between pinky and ring finger, coming up to

front, between middle and index finger, hang on index finger, hold on sl knot/working stitch with thumb and middle finger of left hand, hold hook with right hand. You are ready to do your first stunt.

Step 5: Making Center Ring: Ch 4

To ch, yarn over hook (YO), draw yarn through the loop on hook (ch made). Repeat the above motion 3 more times.

Step 6: Making Center Ring: Join in Ch1 With a Sl St to Form a Ring

Place st marker (safety pin) on 4 ch(s) just made to mark ring center.

Join in ch1 with a sl st to form a ring

Insert hook in ch1. Yo, draw yarn through ch and the loop on hook (sl st made).

Step 7: Rnd 1: Ch 3

Step 8: Rnd 1: 2 Dc in Ring

[On this round, you will be working into the ring. As you do this, also work over the 6” tail left after making sl knot; this keeps down the number of yarn ends to be run in after the square is completed].

To do dc, YO, insert hook in ring center (marked by safety pin), YO, draw through ring center, (3 loops on hook), YO, draw yarn through first 2 loops on hook. YO, draw yarn through last 2 loops on hook (dc made).

Repeat the above steps to make the 2nd dc.

[The first ch 3 is regarded as 1 dc, so now you have a cluster of 3 dc]

Step 9: Rnd 1: Ch 2, Then Work (3 Dc in Ring, Ch 2) 3 Times

[so now you have 4 clusters of 3 dc]

Step 10: Rnd 1: Finish Off First Color.

Join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3 with a sl st.

Always check if your work is right to this point before finishing off. By now, you should have 4 clusters of 3 dc(s) with a space of 2 ch(s) between any two clusters. Now, you'll need to fasten off the yarn and secure it so the stitch will not unravel. To finish off, YO, draw yarn through the loop on hook as if you are doing one more ch, cut yarn 6” from hook, draw tail through the loop, now your hook come off free, pull on tail by hand to tighten it snug.

[Now you have a square with 2 tails hanging (one on back, one on edge). The side of the work now facing you is called the right side of the work].

Step 11: Rnd 2: Attach Second Color

Make a sl knot on hook with 2nd color, with right side of work facing you, join 2nd color with a sl st in any ch-2 sp (these are corner sps).

Step 12: Rnd 2: Complete

ch3

2 dc in same ch-2 corner sp

ch 2

3 dc in same ch-2 corner sp

ch 1

work ((3 dc, ch 2, 3dc in next ch-2 corner space) , ch 1) 3 times

join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3

Finish off second color.

Always check if your work is right to this point before finishing off.

Step 13: Rnd 3: Complete

Attach third color With right side of work facing you, join 3rd color as before in any ch-2 corner sp.

ch 3

2 dc in same ch-2 corner sp

ch 2

3 dc in same ch-2 corner sp

ch 1

3 dc in next ch-1 space

ch 1

work [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times

join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3

Finish off 3rd color.

Always check if your work is right to this point before finishing off.

Step 14: Rnd 4: Complete

Attach 4th color With right side of work facing you, join 4th color as before in any ch-2 corner sp.

ch 3

2 dc in same ch-2 corner sp

ch 2

3 dc in same ch-2 corner sp

ch 1

work (3 dc in next ch-1 space ch 1) 2 times

work [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in next ch-2 corner space, ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch1) 2 times] 3 times

join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3

Finish off 4th color.

Always check if your work is right to this point before finishing off.

Step 15: Weave in Yarn Ends

Now, if you turn the back side of the square up, you will see there are eight yarn ends on the back. There are 192 squares in the sample bedspread. Do the math, that’s a lot of yarn ends to weave in and you do this securely. Make it a practice to weave these in as you crochet each square, unless the pattern says not to (see video). This way, there will be only one yarn end to weave in - the last yarn end, on each square.

I didn't realize this in the beginning. For the first squares I made, they all have 8 tails to weave in. My strategy was to run the finish end to the beg end of the same color, tie a square knot, run in more following stitch pattern on the back and then clip ends.

Start with the finish end (yarn end hanging on the edge in this case).

Fold the very end of the yarn end on needle to flatten it so it doesn’t split when you try to thread, Thread your tapestry needle, follow stitch pattern on the back, run in the finish end to the beg end that’s worked over by the dcs. Tie a square knot, thread both ends to tapestry needle, run in more stitches, go in and come out the other side of dcs on corner. Clip yarn ends. Be very careful, don’t cut stitches.

Finish weaving in the remaining yarn ends the same way.

Again the smartest way to do is to weave in yarn end as you crochet by holding the yarn end together with the working end. Please watch the video for better understanding.

Step 16: Measurement and Calculations

Gauge Measure the size of the above four complete squares, calculate the average size of the square if they are slightly different. This will be your gauge. Mine was 4.5”.

Bedspread size Measure and decide what size you want your bedspread to be. I wanted mine to be 58” by 76”

Squares total Calculate how many squares you need to make for the size of the bedspread you want. Mine was12.8 squares by 16.8 squares. I decided to round off to 12 squares by 16 squares, 192 squares in total. You can always use edging to make up to the size.

Yarn total Divide your squares total by the rnds that one 100g skein of worsted yarn can make for the rnd (91 rnds for the first color, 57 for the second, 41 for the third, and 29 for the fourth), you get the answer (estimation) for how much yarn you need to buy for each color.

Yarn for 1st rnd, 100g skein of worsted yarn makes 91 rnds, 192/91 = 2.1, round off to 2, I did use exactly 2 of 100g yarn skeins to make 192 rnds of the first color. Calculate yours.

Yarn for 2nd rnd, 100g skein of worsted yarn makes 57 rnds, 192/57 = 3.4, round off to 4, I did use 4 of 100g yarn skeins to make 192 rnds of the second color with some left over. How much will you need?

Yarn for 3rd rnd, 100g skein of worsted yarn makes 41 rnds, 192/41 = 4.7, round off to 5, I did use 5 of 100g yarn skeins to make 192 rnds of the third color with a little bit left over. How much will you need?

Yarn for 4th rnd, 100g skein of worsted yarn makes 29 rnds, 192/29 = 6.6, round off to 7, I did use 7 of 100g yarn skeins to make 192 rnds of the fourth color with a little bit left over. How much will you need?

Yarn for Edging When you complete joining all the squares (192 in this sample), you do edging around the whole bedspread. There were 53 squares around in this pattern. But you only need to work on one of the four sides of the 53 squares. You can do 1, 2, 3 or how many rnds of edging you need to. I did 2 rnds in this pattern. I used same color for edging as the last rnd of the sqaure, 53/4*2 = 26.5, round it off to 27, the amount of yarn needed to do edging is equivalent to make 27 rnds of the last rnd of the square, 27/29 = 0.9, round it off to 1. So I used about 1 skein (100g) of yarn of the 4th color on edging.

Yarn for Fringe How much yarn needed to do fringe depends on the following factors: height of the fringe (12.5” in the sample), multiply by 2 (yarn strand is folded in half to the height), stands of yarn per fringe (2 strands was used in the sample), space between fringes (fringe in every space and between stitches) or in another word, total fringes for the end(s) you will fringe (I did for one long end of the bedspread in the pattern, total fringes for the end is 208), so I used 12.5*2*2*208 = 10400 inches of yarn for fringe. One skein of the yarn used in the project has 210 yards, that’s 7560 inches, 10400/7560 = 1.4, So it was 1.4 skein of yarn for fringe.

Notes: The measurements and numbers above are project specific, you substitute them with yours. Also measurements and calculation results are estimations, but good estimations. They save you from multiple trips to yarn store.

Step 17: Make 192 Squares

For this sample bedspread, I needed 192 squares(calculations in previous step).

Repeat step 3-15 of this Instructable to make 96 squares of 4 rnds.

Repeat step 3-13 and step 15 of this Instructable to make 96 squares of 3 rnds.

Display them in an alternate pattern.

Step 18: Assembling and Joining

To join all squares, I found it took less time to complete the last rnd of the uncompleted square and join it with the four complete squares at the same time than to complete all squares to the last rnd and then join them together.

After completing each 3 dc cluster on the square with 3 rnds, join in ch space of the square with 4 rnds with sl st.

Repeat the joining until all 192 squares are joined.