This is to support a target round for competitive knife and tomahawk throwing practice using the American Knife Throwers Alliance rules and regulations. The target round should be a minimum of 16 inches (41 cm) in diameter and at least 8 inches (20 cm) in length. The height above ground for the target face bottom should exceed 18 (47 cm) inches, and the top should be below 67 inches (170 cm). This design is set to center the bulls-eye of the target face at about 4 ft. 6 inches (137 cm) above ground.
1 – 16” or larger diameter cross section of a felled coniferous tree, aged at least 9 months,
having a length between 12 to 18 inches.
3 – 6 ft. long 2”x4” ‘s
1 – 2 ft. long 1”x3”
4 – ½” x 10” lag screws
5 – ¼” x 4” lag screws
1 – 10 ft. long length of chain (dog leash strength)
1 – exterior grade #10 1-1/2” length wood screw
4 – cinder blocks (Optional)
4 - pints of non-latex paint (red, blue, and 2 - white: OR Colors of your choice, optimized for visibility)
1 – ratchet handle
1 – ½” Socket
1 – ¼” Socket
1 – electric drill
1 – ½” wood drill bit
1 – ¼” wood drill bit
1 – extra long ¼” drill bit
1 – Phillips head screwdriver (#1 size, to match wood screw)
3 - disposable 2” wide paint brushes (bristle, NOT foam)
Choose the best “face” for the target round. Be sure to clean it thoroughly with a wire brush to remove any dirt and sawdust. Score a tri-ring bulls-eye target face. Use a 4 inch diameter bulls-eye, an 8 inch diameter inner ring, and a 16 inch diameter outer ring. Paint the bulls-eye red (I painted the exterior, non-scoring are red also). Paint the inner ring white, paint the outer ring blue. Let each color dry completely (24 hours for each color) before applying the next color, so they will not bleed and mix with each other.
Once the target face is dry, move it to a work surface, and turn the painted face down. Take 2 of the 6 ft. long 2”x4” boards and position them as the front (Fore) legs, and ensure they get the most coverage.
Use a marker to determine where to pre-drill holes in the legs, and into the rear of the target round for the lag screws.
Using a socket and ratchet, drive in the four lag screws to tighten the forelegs to the rear of the target round.
Once both forelegs are secure, cut the under round supports into 1 ft. long pieces, pre-drill for the ¼” lag screws, and attach it to the inside of each foreleg as shown in the image.
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Directions: [ Continued ]
Once both under round supports are in place, turn the unit 90 degrees, so that both forelegs are accessible, and attach the “A-frame” cross brace support, pushing it up tight against the under round supports to also bear their weight.
Cut the top of the rear leg so its forward facing edge matches the front angle of one of the forelegs. Pre-drill both it and one foreleg, and attach the rear leg to that foreleg with a ¼” lag screw.
Measure the chain to find the center, using a wood screw, attach the center link to the read of the rear leg, at the mid-point of its length.
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The intent of the chain is to keep the rear leg of the tripod / easel from over extending rearward. To do this, set the unit up on the forelegs, allowing the rear leg to position itself to that the face of the target round is approximately perpendicular to the ground. Extend each side of the chain forward, at attach it to the center of the outside of each foreleg with a wood screw. In the case I show, the target round is very heavy (about 87 lb. – 39.5 Kg) - so I had to reverse this, and attach the chain to a fence top rail behind it to keep it from falling forward, and also needed to brace the forelegs in concrete blocks (Optional step).