Turn a Nerf Gun to a Nerf Gauntlet

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Introduction: Turn a Nerf Gun to a Nerf Gauntlet

(If you like my instructable please consider voting for me for the reusable contest)

If your like me and loved Nerf guns as a kid and have a bunch lying around with no purpose than to take up space in your room, then you'll be glad to know that Alas! they do have a use. As a Nerf enthusiast and inventor I have always wondered why there was never an electrical Nerf gauntlet made, So I decided to make my own, and what better way to make a Nerf gauntlet then to use a preexisting Nerf Gun. I call it the Nerf Rival assist and it is the second version of a Nerf gauntlet that I have made. For this project I reused and re-purposed 3 things.

  • An Electric Nerf Gun specifically the Fortnite AR-L Elite Dart Blaster (but any electric Nerf gun that shoots darts will do) the Nerf gun contains most of the components needed to make the gauntlet .
  • An Old 3D pen which has a 6-12V Gear motor inside that is need to make a mechanism to push the darts.
  • lastly an old lunchbox, yes an old Lunchbox although it seems weird I used an old lunchbox to get buckles and straps needed to hold it to your hand.

Overall this project is very easy and cheap to make, especially is you already have the reusable materials. This project is very fun and cool to build whether you like re-purposing things, or are just looking for a way to make use of an old Nerf gun. Its also a good way to learn and hone skills such as basics of circuits, 3D printing, and basic electrical skills. The Instructable will touch on the following subjects.

  • basics of soldering
  • how to wire a circuit
  • how to modify a circuit
  • how to calculate resistance
  • basics of 3D printing

Alright lets Dive in!

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Step 1: How It Works

Really quickly, to summarize how the entire contraption works, it works by using the flywheel provided by the preexisting Nerf gun to shoot the darts and a mini gear motor that pushes the darts to be shot through the flywheel. A flywheel can be defined as a rotating mechanical device that is used to store rotational energy. which Provides continuous energy when the energy source is discontinuous. In layman's terms its 2 wheels that shoot a projectile by spinning them in opposite directions at a fast rate. Because the Nerf gun already has this we will use it and add some other components. In order for the Nerf darts to be pushed into the flywheel to be shot we will attach a mini gear motor that rotates and moves the dart into the launching area of the flywheel. The Nerf Rival assist also features 3 buttons and 1 switch. 2 of the buttons make sure that the magazine is in place and the top door Is closed or else it wont shoot. The last button turns on the mini gear motor, and the switch turns on the accelerator which spins the flywheel. I have 3D modeled my own Nerf magazine that is small enough to fit inside the gauntlet. The entire gauntlet runs on one 9 Volt battery and also features an indicator light of when the accelerator is turned on. Don't worry if this doesn't make sense right now, as you go through each step it should seem more clear.

Step 2: Materials and Tools

Most of the materials and tools can probably be found at home. I was able to get all of my materials at home making the project very simple. In this project I used my CR-10 3D printer to print the pieces. A 3D printer is a machine that heats filament which is a material most commonly plastic and extrudes it in small layers in order to create objects. Not to worry You don't necessarily need one for this project. Some public libraries carry 3D printers but if yours doesn't have one I have uploaded all my models to a website called Shapeways that allows you to purchase them and have them 3d printed and shipped to you. The link to the Shapeways models will be available below. I have also made the 3d files available if you have a 3D printer. All materials and tools are available for purchase online and can be found at your local Walmart, radio shack or Home depot. Here are a list of materials I used and links to where they can be bought.

Reused Materials

  • 1x Fortnite AR-L Elite Dart Blaster (but any electric nerf gun that shoots darts will work as long as it has a flywheel inside)
  • 1x 3D pen (Any standard 3D Pen will work, as long as it has a gear motor inside)
  • a couple of old lunchboxes with buckles and straps

Electrical Material

Non Electrical Material

Tools

Shapeways models

If you don't have a 3D printer or access to one you can order the models from s website called Shapeways at my shop. It is costly and that is because Shapeways is quite expensive. I would recommend printing this at a public library that has a 3D printer ad having Shapeways be a last resort if you don't want to go broke.You can buy them at the following link.

If you have a 3D printer and would like to print it yourself the 3D models will be available on step 7.

Step 3: Extracting the Components From the Nerf Gun

First we need to get all the needed components from the Nerf gun. We will be extracting all the electric components, the magazine and the magazine locking system. To do this you will need to use a screwdriver to unscrew all the screws of the Nerf gun. This can take some time but this step needs to be done slowly and nicely in order not to harm any of the electronics inside. It is important to understand what is inside the gun in order to be able to manipulate them later. The following 7 things should be identifiable inside the gun.

  1. The flywheel which is located near the front of the gun is orange and is comprised of 2 DC motors with a PCB board soldered on the back of it.
  2. The door button is located wear the door of the gun closes. It serves to make sure that the door is closed before the gun can shoot. It should be a small push button.
  3. The magazine button is located near the entrance of the magazine although it may not be exposed yet. It is a small push button as well as the door button. it is used to make sure the magazine is inside before it can shoot.
  4. The accelerator is also a small push button located near the trigger, and it is used to turn on the flywheel mechanism. It will not turn on unless the door button, and magazine button are pressed.
  5. The power source are 4 AA batteries totaling 6 volts. there should be both a positive and negative wire coming out of the back of the battery pack. This is important to be able to change the power source later.
  6. The magazine locking mechanism should be visible near the entrance of the magazine. It allows the magazine to stay in place when its pushed into the gun. It works by having a spring push a lever so the it pushes against a notch in the magazine making it stay in place. It can also be released in order to release the magazine.
  7. The magazine holder is located at the entrance of the magazine and is yellow. It serves to guide the magazine into the gun.

Once you have opened the gun and understood all of its parts its time to dismount all the electronics. To do this remove every and screws inside the gun. You will need to only take out the electrical pieces without any plastic parts. You may need to use a dremel tool in order to cut out the plastic parts, or a hack saw. Careful extraction is key to preserving the electronics. You will also need to keep the magazine that comes with the gun and take out the already detachable magazine holder located at the entrance of the magazine. Lastly you will need to cut out the magazine locking mechanism in the gun. There is a video of an explanation of the components inside the gun as well as how to and what to take out above.

Step 4: Extract the Gear Motor From the 3D Pen

I had an old 3D pen at home so I decided to take it apart and use the gear motor in it. Depending on the 3D pen you get it may be between 6 to 12 volts but voltage shouldn’t be that big of a deal since it doesn’t have to run fast. If you have an old 3D pen you can save couple bucks and take our the gear motor from it. To do so first you must open up the pen using a screwdriver then unscrew all the parts inside the pen and then take out the mini gear motor. It should already be soldered to 2 wires but just in case it’s not or the wires fall off you may want to solder 2 wires to it. It would also be a good idea to take out any gears or attachments on the motor. The gear motor will be used to push darts into the flywheel to be shot. It does his by turning an attachment that is connected to the motors shaft.

Step 5: Extract Buckles and Straps From an Old Lunchbox

I used some old lunchboxes to extract 1 inch straps for the gauntlet. It is possible to also extract buckles from the lunchboxes but i already had some lying around. To do so you can either cut the straps from the lunchbox that are attached or you can take out the lunchbox attachment that comes with most of them as an extra strap for carrying it like a bag. Buckles can be taken out from the handles of the lunch box.

Step 6: Add Electronics to the Circuit

Next we will add a couple electronics to the circuit. This is probably the most time consuming and longest step, but it is fairly simple.There are 2 schematics available in the pictures above. the first shows the circuit when you first open up the gun, this is the unchanged circuit that comes with the gun. The second schematic is the changed circuit which has all of the added electronics on it. It would be useful to use them both as a reference. There are a couple reasons for the addition of new electronics.First the gauntlet needs a way to shoot the darts since the way it use to be shot was too big and bulky to be put in the gauntlet. Secondly we need to change the battery source for space and more voltage. We will add the following electronics

  • 1x blue LED
  • 1x 9V battery
  • 1x mini gear motor (from the 3D pen)
  • 1x SPST switch
  • 1x 9V battery clip
  • 1x 220 Ohm Resistor
  • 1x push button
  • 1 pair of male and female connector pegs

These electronics are all added to make the gauntlet work better and function as a gauntlet. The 9V battery will act as the new power source because it has more voltage than the previously used 4 AA batteries which totaled 6V and it is smaller which saves us space. The LED is used as an indicator of when the accelerator is turned on. Every time the accelerator is turned on the blue LED light with turn on. The resistor is put with the LED to limit its voltage intake. A resistor is a passive two-terminal electrical component that implements electrical resistance as a circuit element. In electronic circuits, resistors are used to reduce current flow, adjust signal levels, divide voltages, and terminate transmission lines. We will use them for the LED to only get 3V instead of 9 so that it wont burn out. The switch used for the Accelerator rather than using the push button that is already connected to it. This makes shooting the gauntlet alot more easier, rather than having to hold a button down you can now just flip a switch to turn it on. The push button is added to turn on the gear motor momentarily. And lastly the connector pegs were added to connect and disconnect the motor instead of having it permanently soldered. This step of making the gauntlet requires the use of a soldering iron and solder. Knowing how to solder is key to adding the components. Soldering is simply a way of connecting a series of wires permanently with solder. Here are the steps of what needs to b done to update the circuit.

(make sure to use heat shrink tubing after soldering any wires)

  1. The accelerator button has 3 wires. Cut the left most wire from the button in half. Then take the switch and connect 1 of the leads to of of the sides of the wires and the other lead to the other side that was cut in half.
  2. Next take the 9V battery clip and connect the positive side to the positive side of the wire that use to be connected to the battery pack as well as connecting the negative side to the negative side of the wire that use to be connected to the negative side of the battery pack.
  3. Then connect the male part of the connector pegs and solder both the positive and negative sides to the leads on the mini gear motor (the sides on the motor don't matter). Now solder the negative side of the female connector peg to the negative wire of the 9V battery clip. Solder the positive side of the female connector peg to one of the sides of the push button. Solder the other side of the push button to the positive side of the 9V battery clip. At this point the mini gear motor should be able to go on when the button is pressed.
  4. Now we need to add the LED light, and to do so we need to add a resistor since the LED only cam take in 3V. If you don't add a resistor the light might burn out. The formula for resistance is V = I*R where V is voltage measured in volts, I Is for current measured in amps, and R is fr resistance measured in Ohms. Since we are using a 9V battery and the LED can take in 3V there is a 6V difference. For the current the LED is rated for 2 milliamps which converts to .02 amps. Since we know 2 out of the 3 variables we can use simple algebra to find out what the resistance is. It should be around 300 Ohms but I found that 220 Ohms works a little better. Know solder any side of the resistor to the negative side of the LED. The negative side will be the shorter side and the positive side will be the longer side. Then solder the other end of the resistor to the negative side of the 9V battery clip. The positive side of the LED should then be soldered to the middle of the accelerator push button.

Now the entire circuit should be updated. When all the push buttons are pressed down and the switch it turned on the flywheel should turn on. And When the push button for the gear motor is pressed the motor should turn on.

Step 7: 3D Print the Models

This step is meant only if you want to 3D pint the models at home. If you are ordering them from Shapeways you can skip this step. If you do have a 3D printer or access to one you can download the models below.

I designed the 3D models in A 3D modeling software called Fusion 360. I used specific measurements to make the gauntlet accurately house the electronics. I printed them in blue and black PLA filament and used lots of supports.There are 11 3D models to make the gauntlet they are.

  1. the accelerator hold down
  2. the top part
  3. the bottom parts
  4. the gear motor attachment
  5. the nozzle
  6. the mag release button
  7. the magazine
  8. the the battery cover
  9. the switch case
  10. the top door
  11. the mag release cap

once you have 3D printed the models you will need to sand with a file and 60 grit sandpaper. Then you will need to remove all supports.

3D Model View

3D Model Files

Step 8: Attach Materials to the Gauntlet

Now we need to attach the materials and parts to the 3D printer gauntlet. You will need to use scissors pliers and both gorilla and E36000 glue. We will use 2 different hours because E36000 glue dries clear and is better for gluing things that will be noticeable and seen. Gorilla glue is stronger and is used to glue things on the inside that won’t be seen since it foams up. To apply the glue I used a paper clip and unwind it then I dipped it in the glue and put it on the necessary pieces. Here is what’s you will need to assemble and glue.

  1. Cut a large rubber band and glue it with E36000 to the mini gear motor attachment. This is done to provide friction between the attachment and the Nerf dart so that it pushes it towards the flywheel to be shot.after it has dried attach the attachment to the mini gear motor. No glue will be required. It was designed to be a tight fit.
  2. Now use gorilla glue to glue the magazine locking mechanism that was harvested from the nerf gun to the place for it in the bottom part of the gauntlet. You want to glue it to the place that is near the magazine entrance. It has a dowel looking piece that Comes up that fits perfectly in the locking mechanism. After that, put the 3D printed mag release button on the release mechanism and put the mag release cap on it to stay in place. The magazine release mechanism should now be operational and should move back when pressed.
  3. Glue the switch case to the space provided for it on the top part with gorilla glue only on the back where it isn’t noticeable. This may require some sanding and filing.
  4. Get your 1 inch strip and cut it to 3 lengths. I cut mine into 13 inch segments but I have a small hand. Then thread each one through the bottom of the provided slots on the 3D printer gauntlet. Once threaded attach the 1 inch buckles to them. I used hot glue to seal them. Do this for all 3 strips
  5. Take your 4 magnets and attach them to both the 3D printed top part and top door using E36000. There are holes for all 4 magnets. Make sure when you glue them you are making sure that they will be able to be connected together. I do this by marking the 2 ends that connect together with a sharpie to know which ends are positive and negative.
  6. Glue the nozzle to the front part of the gauntlet using E36000.
  7. Lastly glue the mag holder from the Nerf gun to the entrance of the magazine. There should be a slot for it already there. Use gorilla glue for this. You may also need to cut out slots from the mag holder to accommodate the magazine button and the switch. There is a picture of what I cut out above.

Now you are done putting all the material parts onto the gauntlet, its time to move on to mounting all the electrical parts in the next step.

Step 9: Mount the Electronics to the Gauntlet

Now we need to mount all the electronic components to the gauntlet. They all have specific places to go on the gauntlet. The wires although can go wherever there is space. Most of the free space for wires is located behind them motor mount. Now here is what needs to be done.

  1. First place the flywheel on the front of the gauntlet. There are stands specifically designed to mount the gauntlet. Now you need to screw on the flywheel with M3 screws.
  2. Put the switch into the switch case and glue it in.
  3. place the LED into the hole onto the front of the gauntlet. Bend the LED and glue it onto the gauntlet.
  4. Put the 9V battery clip into the battery case. 9 This may require you to desolder the battery clip)
  5. place the push button onto the slot given in the-front of the gauntlet and glue it down.
  6. attach both door and magazine buttons onto the slots provided for them both on the top part of the gantlet and on the bottom part.
  7. Attach the motor onto the motor stand located behind the flywheel and glue it down. Then put the motor attachment onto the motor if you haven't already done so.
  8. lastly screw in the top part to the bottom part using M3 screw and a screwdriver.

Now all that is left is to create the magazine

Step 10: Create the Magazine

The last step in creating this is to make the magazine to do this you will need to open the magazine that comes with the Nerf gauntlet using pliers and a dremel. Then take out the spring and lifter. Cut the spring smaller to accommodate for the new 3D printed magazine that is much smaller then glue it to the 3D printed magazine. We have created a new magazine because if we use the regular magazine it will be took long for the gauntlet and will stick out. This magazine can hold up to 2 bullets. Although this is a low number it is worth its size and you can theoretically print a bunch more and make many magazines. Since they are small you can easily switch them out.

Step 11: Test the Gauntlet

Now we need to test the gauntlet, to do so first lets make sure the battery. Now add some bullets into the magazine and put it into the magazine entrance. Now the magazine button should be pressed but the switch should turn on the motor because the door button hasn't been pressed. Next place the top door into the top, and now the top door button should be pressed. Then put the gauntlet onto your hand and fasten it with the buckles. Because both buttons are pressed the switch should tun on the flywheel. The LED light indicator should now be on. After the flywheel has been turned on momentarily you can hold the motor push button and the dart should be fired. Once your done release the push button and flip the switch back off. This is basically how to use the gauntlet.

Step 12: Create My Original Nerf Gauntlet (optional)

As stated previously This is actually my second version of making a Nerf gauntlet. My first attempt was fairly successful and worked very well. Both were made by reusing Nerf guns and a 3D pen. In uses the Nerf Rival Khaos MXVI-4000 Blaster. These are a list of things I didn't like about the original gauntlet and how I changed it in this one as well as some differences.

  • The first version used a pretty big 11.7v battery that weighed a lot and took up lots of space. This version used a 9V battery which is quite small
  • The first version used an IR remote to control it which didn't respond as fast. This version uses 1 push button for the gear motor and 1 switch for the accelerator which are mounted on the gauntlet.
  • The first version shoots Nerf rival bullets while this version uses standard Nerf bullets.
  • The first one is very heavy and tall while this one is simpler smaller and sleek.
  • The first version Uses an Arduino Uno which added t the size and weight. This version used electrical components from the Nerf gun and some other electronics.
  • The first version was quite costly, it was around 170 dollars and this one only cost around 20 dollars if you have the reusable materials.

If you would like to create my earlier version of this there are 3D model files, a quick summary of the design, and the arduino code I used below. I currently dont have an instructable for it but it is pretty self explanatory and is similar to the creation of this version.

summary

This is my Nerf Rival assist that I designed, 3d printed, built and programmed. The Nerf rival assist is an automated Nerf gauntlet and turret the shoots Nerf rival bullets with the press of a button. What makes this special is that it can be controlled from far away because it uses an IR sensor. The Nerf rival assist has proven to be able to shoot long distances, shoot at top speeds, and shoot with accuracy. I designed it in Tinkercad and then printed it on my CR-10 3D printer. You will also need access to a 3D printer.This contraption utilizes the following 3 unique mechanisms.

The magwell

  • The magwell allows the magazine to be pushed in to unload the bullets. This was done by designing a Magazine well that can push on the lever of the magazine when it is loaded.

The loader

  • The loader moves the bullets to the flywheel. It utilizes a gear to push the bullets forward. The loader is effective because it allows one bullet at a time to be shot while restraining the others. It can also release multiple bullets to be shot at a time. The loader is also designed to not jam the bullets and have smooth contact.

The flywheel

  • The flywheel uses 2 12v DC motors to spin in opposite directions to shoot the bullet. When the bullet is pushed through by the loader it is then spun very fast by the flywheel and is launched forward. The flywheel is the most important mechanism and the heart of the Nerf rival assist.

I utilized both functions of tinkercad to create this. I used the design tools to make the model of the rival assist and export it to be 3D printed on my CR-10 3D printer. I also used the circuits tool to create a schematic and write the code for the gauntlet which allows it to have its unique abilities. The Nerf rival assist features the following.

LCD display

  • The LCD display shows the battery percent of the 11.7v lipo battery as wells as if the magazine Is fully pushed in.

Lipo battery

  • The Rival assist includes a 11.7 volt lipo battery that can be recharged without fully taking it out.

End stop

  • There is a mini endstop switch that detects if the magazine is in or else it won’t shoot. This is located next to the magwell. The magazine has an attachment that allows it to push the endstop when fully in.

IR remote and receiver

  • The Nerf rival assist features a IR remote and IR receiver that allow it to work from far distances as long as you have the remote. The power button on the remote spins the flywheel while every button except 2-9 shoots 1 bullet by activating the loader. The 2-9 buttons shoot that number of bullets rapidly. So, pressing 5 would shoot 5 bullets continuously.

Nerf assist parts list

● 2x Uxcell Shaft Coupling 2.3mm to 3mm Bore L26xD10 Robot Motor Wheel Rigid Coupler Connector Each - $6.79 Total - $13.58

● 1x Momentary Hinge Metal Roller Lever Micro Switch Total - $2.50

● 1x LiPo Charger 2S-3S Balance Battery Charger 7.4-11.1V Total - $14.99

● 1x Male Female Bullet Connectors Power Plugs Total - $1.25

● 1x 7 Round Cartridge Magazine Replacement Bullet Clip for Nerf Rival Zeus Apollo XV-700 / XVIII-700 Blasters BB035 Total - $9.00

● 1x Arduino nano Total - $9.00

● Solder Total - $2.00

● 22awg wire Total - $8.00

● 2x L298N Motor Drive Controller Board Module Total - $9.00

● ⅛ inch heat shrink tubing Total - $2.00

● ½ inch heat shrink tubing Total - $0.50

● 1x 11.1v Lipo battery Total - $16.00

● 1x IR receiver and remote Total - $10.00

● 1x 1602 LCD Total - $6.00

● 13x M3 x 14mm hex screws Total- $1.50

● 13x M3 3mm Female Thread Hex Metal Nut Fastener Total - $1.50

● 2x M3 x 50mm hex screws Total - $0.50

● 1x Mini Gear motor Total - $10.69

● 2x 27mm dc motor Total - $12.00

● 2mm black foam Total - $2.00

● 1x 10k potentiometer Total - $1.60

● 1x 100k ohm resistor Total - $0.06

● 1x 10k ohm resistor Total - $0.06

● 1x electronic switch Total - $0.50

● 7x ammo Total - $1.00

● 1x wrist brace Total - $10.00

● 8x 5x5x3mm magnets Total - $1.44

Filament

● Blue filament Total - $16.18

● Black filament Total - $0.71

● Grey filament Total - $0.07

● White filament Total - $5.53

● Orange filament Total - $0.22

Total - $22.5

Parts price - $169.62

The circuit design was also made in tinker cad. The circuit design can be downloaded and viewed here. All electronics used are in the schematic.

Code

<p>#include 
<br>#include "IRremote.h"</p><p>int receiver = 4; // Signal Pin of IR receiver to Arduino Digital Pin 11</p><p>/*-----( Declare objects )-----*/
IRrecv irrecv(receiver);     // create instance of 'irrecv'
decode_results results;      // create instance of 'decode_results'</p><p>/*-----( Function )-----*/
void translateIR() // takes action based on IR code received</p><p>// describing Remote IR codes </p><p>{</p><p>  switch(results.value)</p><p>  {
  case 0xFFA25D: Serial.println("POWER"); break;
  case 0xFFE21D: Serial.println("FUNC/STOP"); break;
  case 0xFF629D: Serial.println("VOL+"); break;
  case 0xFF22DD: Serial.println("FAST BACK");    break;
  case 0xFF02FD: Serial.println("PAUSE");    break;
  case 0xFFC23D: Serial.println("FAST FORWARD");   break;
  case 0xFFE01F: Serial.println("DOWN");    break;
  case 0xFFA857: Serial.println("VOL-");    break;
  case 0xFF906F: Serial.println("UP");    break;
  case 0xFF9867: Serial.println("EQ");    break;
  case 0xFFB04F: Serial.println("ST/REPT");    break;
  case 0xFF6897: Serial.println("0");    break;
  case 0xFF30CF: Serial.println("1");    break;
  case 0xFF18E7: Serial.println("2");    break;
  case 0xFF7A85: Serial.println("3");    break;
  case 0xFF10EF: Serial.println("4");    break;
  case 0xFF38C7: Serial.println("5");    break;
  case 0xFF5AA5: Serial.println("6");    break;
  case 0xFF42BD: Serial.println("7");    break;
  case 0xFF4AB5: Serial.println("8");    break;
  case 0xFF52AD: Serial.println("9");    break;
  case 0xFFFFFFFF: Serial.println(" REPEAT");break;  </p><p>  default: 
    Serial.println(" other button   ");</p><p>  }// End Case</p><p>  delay(500); // Do not get immediate repeat</p><p>} //END translateIR</p><p>LiquidCrystal lcd(13, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12);
int togglestate = 0;
int analogInput = 0;
float vout = 0.0;
float vin = 0.0;
float R1 = 100000.0; // resistance of R1 (100K)
float R2 = 10000.0; // resistance of R2 (10K)
int value = 0;
int a[5] = {};
int battery;
String in = "in";
String out = "out";
String mag;</p><p>int m1sd=3; //motor 1 speed controller(D3)
int m1d1=2; //motor 1 direction 1(D2)
int m1d2=A6; //motor 1 direction 2(A6)
int m2sd=5; //motor 2 speed controller(D5)
int m2d1=A1; //motor 2 direction 1(A1)
int m2d2=A2; //motor 2 direction 2(A2)
int m3sd=6; //motor 3 speed controller(D6)
int m3d1=A3; //motor 3 direction 1(A3)
int m3d2=A4; //motor 3 direction 2(A4)
int btn=7; //Micro button(D7)
int gm=250;//gear motor time
int m=80;//flywheel motors rpm</p><p>void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode(m1sd, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m1d1, OUTPUT); 
pinMode(m1d2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m2sd, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m2d1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m2d2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m3sd, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m3d1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(m3d2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(btn, INPUT_PULLUP);</p><p>Serial.begin(9600);
Serial.println("IR Receiver Button Decode"); 
irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start the receiver
  </p><p>  pinMode(analogInput, INPUT);
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  lcd.setCursor(2, 0);
  lcd.print(" NERF RIVAL");
  lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
  lcd.print("     ASSIST");
  delay(1500);
  lcd.clear();
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  lcd.setCursor(2, 0);
  lcd.print("     BY");
  lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
  lcd.print("PRINTED GADGETS");
  delay(1500);
  lcd.clear();
}
void loop() {
  // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
lcd.print("Magazine :  ");
lcd.print(mag);
  // read the value at analog input
  value = analogRead(analogInput);
  vout = (value * 5) / 1024.0;
  vin = vout / (R2 / (R1 + R2));
  battery = (vin/11.1)*100;
  if (vin < 0.09)
  {
    vin = 0.0;
  }
  lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
  lcd.print("Battery :  %");
  lcd.print(battery);
  delay(250);
  lcd.clear();</p><p>if (digitalRead(btn) == LOW )//magazine button detector
  {
    mag = in;</p><p>    if (irrecv.decode(&results)){
translateIR(); 
    irrecv.resume(); // receive the next value
        switch(results.value){
irrecv.resume();
          case 0xFFE21D: //func/stop(anti jamm)
      digitalWrite(m1sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m1d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m1d2, HIGH); 
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m1sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m1d1, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(m1d2, LOW);
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m1sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m1d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m1d2, HIGH); 
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m1sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m1d1, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(m1d2, LOW);
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m2sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m2d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m2d2, HIGH); 
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m2sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m2d1, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(m2d2, LOW);
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m2sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m2d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m2d2, HIGH); 
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m2sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m2d1, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(m2d2, LOW);
      delay(500);
      digitalWrite(m1sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m1d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m1d2, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m2sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m2d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m2d2, LOW);
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF629D: //Vol+
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF22DD: //fast back
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF02FD: //pause
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFFC23D: //fast forward
      if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFFE01F: //down
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFFA857: //vol-
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF906F: //up
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF9867: //EQ
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFFB04F: //st/rept
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF6897: //0
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF30CF: //1 
      if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF18E7: //2 bullets
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      lcd.print("   shooting ");
      lcd.print("2");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("    bullets");
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm*2);
      lcd.clear();
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF7A85: //3 bullets
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      lcd.print("   shooting ");
      lcd.print("3");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("    bullets");
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm*3);
      lcd.clear();
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF10EF: //4 bullets
      if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      lcd.print("   shooting ");
      lcd.print("4");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("    bullets"); 
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm*4);
      lcd.clear();
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF38C7: //5 bullets
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      lcd.print("   shooting ");
      lcd.print("5");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("    bullets");  
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm*5);
      lcd.clear();
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF5AA5: //6 bullets
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      lcd.print("   shooting ");
      lcd.print("6");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("    bullets");  
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm*6);
      lcd.clear();
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF42BD: //7 bullets
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      lcd.print("   shooting ");
      lcd.print("7");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("    bullets");
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm*7);
      lcd.clear();
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF4AB5: //8
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFF52AD: //9
       if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;</p><p>        case 0xFFFFFFFF: //repeat
      if(digitalRead(m1d1) == HIGH && digitalRead(m2d1) == HIGH){
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 80);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, HIGH); 
      delay(gm);
      digitalWrite(m3sd, 0);
      digitalWrite(m3d1, LOW);
      digitalWrite(m3d2, LOW);
     }
     else
     {
      
     }
        break;
        
        
  
     case 0xFFA25D: //flywheel motors
        // Toggle motors on and off power button
        if(togglestate==0){
        digitalWrite(m1d1, HIGH);
        digitalWrite(m1d2, LOW);
        digitalWrite(m1sd, m);
        digitalWrite(m2d1, HIGH);
        digitalWrite(m2d2, LOW);
        digitalWrite(m2sd, m);
        togglestate=1;
        }
        else {
        digitalWrite(m1d1, LOW);
        digitalWrite(m1d2, LOW);
        digitalWrite(m1sd, 0);
        digitalWrite(m2d1, LOW);
        digitalWrite(m2d2, LOW);
        digitalWrite(m2sd, 0);
        togglestate=0;
        }
        break;   
    }
    irrecv.resume(); 
  }//end of IR
  }
  else
  {
    mag = out;
irrecv.resume();
  }</p><p>  
  
}//end loop</p>

Step 13: Conclusion

Congratulations!!! you have successfully created my Nerf Rival assist version 2.0 which was created using and old Nerf gun, a old 3D pen and a old lunch box. This inscrutable has proved that you can create something new using creativity, inspiration and especially reused parts.The principle of opening something up taking out the electronics and reusing them to make something else can be used to make many things. best creations are those made from previously used things. Hope you enjoyed this build as much as I did. If you have any questions about this project please contact me. If you create this projector another project with the same principles. Thank you and Have a good day!

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