Twin Flash at My Way

What's up?

I like to take macro (micro) shots. And for this reason I need a light. It is because I want ti use ISO 100. And I need greater possible DOF. And therefore F should be 16.... til 32. At normal sunny day photo is black. If you Have not artificial light.
Answer is a flash. Strong light. Fast light. To freeze movements. It shall be perfect!
So,  I need to buy a flash.
Normal flashgun  - illuminate from front and pictures are flat.
Ring Flash - "dedicated" for macro - the same story - pictures without deep.
Well, we need a light source from side and litlle above... about 45 degree. 
Twin flash!  Main from left and right to fill in...It has to be perfect!

I search web ... after days and tears, I conclude that I have not -  I will not be a Jack ass for  500 ... 800 ...1000 USD.

So I turn to proven DIY.
Two smallest flashes from China.. about 24 USD.
Two optical hot shoe from China...  about 14 USD.
A small Flashgun from E-bay... 25 USD... suited for ma A350.
Plate of Plexiglas 4mm and few hours in my corner.  A lens hood ...

All hand made in several hours.
Pictures worth a 1000 words. Specially the last two.

You always have a choice.. to choose "dedicated" "only for me" "special" ...Jack ass for 000 USD.

Sincerely, Yours.

Step 1: Basic Material

This part is very complicated. I have to draw a circles. The bigger one for the front and the smaller one for the back ring. Lens hood is conical. The I need to choose tool. The I have to cut a pancake form from Plexiglas (Lexan).  1 hour. And 13 minutes.

Step 2: Heat

Bending was made by blowing concentrated heat  (usually is enough to reach 150-180 C) .

Step 3: 6 Mm Holes.

Holes. Adjustment for nuts.

Step 4: Hinge

Plexi of 4mm thickness is reinforced wit another block of Plexi to reach thickness of about 12 mm. Then i drill a hole of 5,2 mm and use taps to finish the task.

Step 5: Small Adjustment Holes

On one side i drill 3 holes (you can choose to take more) on a diametrical order. To be able to set left flash on favorite position. Then a prepare it for 4 mm screws.

Step 6: All Parts

Lens hood (conical). Front and back pancake ring. Hinge, screws, opto hot shoes and very "sofisticated" flashes.

Step 7: Hinge

All parts.

Step 8: Hinge Assembling

Well. Assembling is a you full part. It can be seen that front ring is with biiger inside diameter and the back rin have a smaller inside diameter because the hood is conical. This is conical form is used to hold the parts tight to each other.

Step 9: Test

Well, it works.



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    8 Discussions


    7 years ago on Introduction

    a bit late, i know, but maybe others will be helped by this. This cheap (15 usd) flash has a built in slave with delay for preflash:

    can also search for 'Godox 18'

    Phil B

    8 years ago on Introduction

    Your Instructable primarily concerns mounting two flash units.  How do you trigger them and how do you synchronize them with the shutter on your digital camera?  Many digital cameras use a pre-flash to reduce red eye.  This pre-flash makes standard slave flash triggers unworkable on many digital cameras.

    4 replies

    Sorry, i was not here at time... 1, I use standard flash mounted on hot shoe ... they are without pre-flash 2. Each small flashes on sides are mounted on optical hot shoes about 10 USD pc 3. Now I have also wireless trigger. And of course, simple old fashion flash wire PC connection. The last on is the best.

    1, Main flash is mounted on camera.
    2.  You can see two opto-trigers on sistem!
    3. In macro photo I use M- manual mode whithout preflash.

    My camera is not a DSLR and I do not have as many manual controls.  496 Euros is a little expensive for a twin flash (eBay link).

    Here is alterenative: