About: Empowering women (and their husbands and boyfriends) one DIY project at a time -- We teach basic home maintenance and home improvement skills.

This year my goal is to tackle at least one concept or “pin” each month, centered around one room. Every month will be a different room or space. This is the Pinterest Room Challenge. The "Room of the Month" for January is the Bedroom. So when a friend of mine approached me about helping her find an affordable headboard, I decided to take on the challenge of creating a headboard inspired by a "pin" found within the ToolBox Divas Bedroom Inspiration Board.

In a pin by Laura from the The Turquoise Home, she used plans developed by Ana White called "Mom’s Fancy Farmhouse Bed" to develop this headboard. I felt the design of this headboard was perfect for my friend and her space. She wanted something simple yet detailed for her queen size bed. It also had to be affordable. I had normally like to use reclaimed items whenever possible. And it just so happened that I'd picked up some reclaimed 2x6s and wood paneling during my last "thrifting" trip.

So not to delay this any further....Let's Get Dirty!

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Step 1: Cost & Materials

Cost: $50-$80 (The price can vary greatly depending on how elaborate you get with your moulding choices.)
Materials and Cuts:

6 – Wood panels (3/4” in thickness); Each Panel Cut to 26″ in length

1– 2x6 (Base of Panel) Cut to 55″

1– 2x6 (Above the Panel and Legs) Cut to 62"

2–2x4 (Legs) Cut to 50" 2–1x2 (Side Trim for Panel) Cut to 26"

2–1x2 (Top/Bottom Panel Trim) Cut to 55"

1–1x3 (Top of Headboard) cut to 64"

Moulding: It’s a personal preference but I can tell you what I used.

2 – 1/2in. Quarter Round pieces for inside the paneling

1– Raw Dentil Crown Moulding found @ Lowes

1– Raw Embossed Moulding found @ Lowes

2 – 3/8 in. x 3/4 in. x 96 in. Pine Stop Moulding

Step 2: Dimensions Are for a Queen Size Bed:

Step 3: Panel Assembly

Lay out the wood paneling to measure and cut down to 55" wide and each board down to 26" in length. To achieve uniformity when cutting down to the 55" panel width, cut evenly the two end panels.

Before I connected the panels I took this opportunity to sand down the panels.

It's really getting dirty now. Remember to wear a dust mask when sanding.

Connect the panels with a brad nailer and wood glue. You can also use small finishing nails hammering in at an angle or toenailing.

Step 4: Panel Trim

Once the panels are connected trim with the 1x2s.

While I used a miter saw, this project can be achieved with basic tools like a hammer and nails, a drill, and a saw and miter box set.

I reinforced everything with wood glue. Always check that the trim is square using a speed square.

Step 5: Add Baseboard

Flip the headboard panel over to attach the bottom base of the headboard. Attach using pocket screws.

The base of the panel is a reclaimed 2x6 cut down to 55".

The length of the pocket screws is determined by the thickness of the material. The nominal or actual thickness of a 2x6 is 1.5". So the proper pocket screw length is 2 1/2". I used my Kreg Jig Jr. for this project.

Look at that! It's starting to look like something other than a pile of wood panels.

Step 6: Add the Legs

Now it's time to attach the legs. The legs are simple 2x4x8 studs cut down to 50." I attached the legs of the headboard using 2 1/2" pocket screws.

Ok....I made a mistake here. I turned the headboard back over to see my work and well... There is a good side and "bad" side to lumber. The bad side or rather the side that should be facing down is the side with the specs of the lumber written on it. In cases where you are staining your headboard with a lighter tone...this matters. But if this happens to you too, don't fret, just take out your sander like I did and sand it away. Mistakes happen. But it's how you come back from your mistakes that mater the most.

Step 7: Cap the Headboard

Once I'd sanded my mistake I turned the headboard back over to attach the legs of the headboard.

At the top of the headboard I attached another piece of 2x6 cut down to 62" spanning the width of the entire headboard using pocket screws.

Now flip the headboard back over. Be Careful. This darn thing gets heavier with every piece.

At the very top of the headboard place the 1x3 over top the 2x6. It should be 64" in length, overlaping the board by 1" on either end of the top.

Attach using finishing nails or your brad nailer.

Step 8: The Basics

There you have it, your basic panel headboard!

Step 9: Details

Now lets make it pretty. In this portion I can't provide the exact measurement for the trim. The trim used is a personal preference and is cut to fit. So have fun at your local hardware store. The beauty is in the detail.

In my case I used 1/2in. quarter round pieces for inside the paneling, raw dentil crown moulding at the very top and raw embossed moulding, in the middle and pine stop moulding. All trim was found at Lowes.

Step 10: The French Cleat

Once the trim and moulding was complete I flipped the headboard over once again. This time very gently and with the assistance of a friend. I decided the best way to keep this headboard up was to attach it to the wall. So using a french cleating system, I made cut a 2x4 down to 40" and cut it in half at a 35 degree angle. I made my french cleat out of wood. But it can also be purchased from a hardware store or Amazon, like the Hangman French Cleat.

Step 11: Clean It Up and Prep

Now it's time to clean up this headboard. I used reclaimed wood. So it naturally had its nicks and scrapes. Using wood filler and a putty knife fill in the holes and "imperfections."

Once it has dried, sand down the headboard and prep for staining or painting.

Step 12: Stain/Paint

So my friend asked that her headboard be stained black. It pained me to cover that beautiful wood with such a dark stain. But I used a glossy finish and it actually grew on me.

Step 13: What You Think?

Step 14: Installing/Setting Up the Headboard

Set the headboard against the wall to measure the height of the cleat board installation.

Attach the opposite cleat to the wall ensuring that its screwed in to the wall studs. A stud finder is very useful in this situation. As a rule of thumb, studs within the wall are normally 16 inches apart.

Step 15: Make the Bed and Enjoy!

Ok place your bed and box spring up against the headboard and make the bed. Enjoy a beautiful night's sleep in a bed you created. Should you have any questions or concerns or even tips or pointers, please leave me a comment. I'd love to hear from you.

Till Next Time! ~T.

Check out ToolBox Divas for more information on this project and others.

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    2 Discussions


    5 years ago

    Just beautiful. Wow. What a great project