Introduction: UPVC WIndow to Patio Door Conversion
Hi there everyone!
As I promised in my previous post here is my instructable on Upvc window to patio door conversion.
This is a little project I needed to do to prepare for my conservatory addition to go up the weekend which will be a big first time project for me and I cant wait. 4m by 4m extra living space. Woohoo!!!
Although DIY projects can sometimes be daunting due to cost converting the window to a patio door cost me £20 for the patio doors second hand, with the cill, and the fittings and trims came to approx £30 and it really is worth it
There will be no more struggling with sofas through awkward door ways anymore. That alone makes it worth the time and money.
In the following steps I will do my best to let you know everything from start to finish from tools to tips and cills to chaos.
WIth a bit of luck and a cup of coffee it will be done.
Step 1: Tools and Materials
Phillips screwdriver or electric drill with screwdriver bit
Hand saw or mitre saw
Hack saw or metal cutting disc
220mm diamond edged masonry disc or larger for stihl saw
9" grinder or stihl saw
multi tool and plunge cutting tool
1 piece of timber to fill gap
Rawl plugs and screws 120mm long.
Upvc trim size and style to suite your taste.
cement (in case you need it).
Bay pole screws x 4 by 70mm
Step 2: Removing the Windows or Glass From the Frame
Firstly we are doing this to make the frame lighter so this step can be skipped but your saving yourself 5 minutes just to struggle moving it later on.
The window is held into the frame or two brackets with just two pozidrive head (+ / x head ) screws in both.
Undo the top first removing one screw and leave one finger tight to stop it falling out once the bottom is undone and then both the bottom ones. Once you have 3 screws out remove the other with the window supported by a helping hand or tightly held onto.
If your window is fully glazed and cant open then you need to remove the trim. -
The trim is pushed in at the front and clicked into place using a nylon mallet closest edge to the glass.
The best way to remove the trim is to have a thin metal L bracket and tapping the shortest leg into the trim at the furthermost edge going in horizontally and once in use the longest leg to lever the trim out.
This is the best way to save the trim for using again as well. Damage is made but on the side that is not seen so it can be re applied using adhesive.
Step 3: Removing the Frame
The frame is screwed into the wall, usually, 150mm from edge up/down and then every 600mm down the sides.
There may be some along the top and bottom but it is not a regular occurrence.
Rawl plugs are usually pushed through the frame and then screwed into the wall so just unscrew them and pull out the rawl plugs.
Once the frame is unscrewed it may come out easily or need a good few taps with a rubber or nylon mallet to get it out just tapping the corners firmly should allow it to be persuaded to come free.
Now you have a hole and your exposed to the outside wall and you need to get that door in so time for cutting.
Step 4: Preparing the Cut Out for the Door
Now you have removed the frame and have a vacant hole in your wall its time to remove the inside window cill and mark out ready for cutting.
Window cill was held into place with wire which was buried into the mortar in the wall so just tap it out with a hammer and keep bending the wire until it breaks or use a hack saw or metal cutting disc to cut it so you can take it out of your way.
*******When cutting metal please be careful it can take 4 hours of waiting in a room for someone to take a needle to your eye ball for you to stare right at it coming towards you and not move or blink to remove it and its not pleasant learnt through experience.********
WEAR GLASSES OR FULL FACE MASK.
Using a spirit level and a permanent marker mark a straight line from the window opening to the floor. Set the depth of the door by checking the height of your patio doors and remember not to cut more than you need to.
Now mark the inside the same allowing for plasterboard thickness for a nice flush touch up job. I cut 15mm more each side to allow for this.
My next mini step of this step was to use a plunge cutter on a multi tool my dad got me for Christmas (thanks Dad) to remove the skirting board neater than using the saw i am using to remove the wall.
Before you cut the wall out use the tarpaulin sheet and tape of the majority of the room so not to spray brick dust everywhere, your partner/ housemate will appreciate it.
Use drawing pins and cloth tape to seal and hold the tarpaulin in place.
Step 5: Take Out the Wall
Now your ready for cutting and taking out the wall.
PUT ON YOUR PPE!!!
Start off by making sure you have a confident grasp of the tool of your choice (9" grinder or stihl saw).
If you are not fully confident try a dry run (without power) to re arrange your position and grasp.
When cutting the wall it will produce so much brick dust you may lose visibility so STOP WAIT FOR IT TO GO AND THEN AND ONLY THEN CARRY ON!!!
Cut a slight grove in the wall along the line you marked earlier and once your happy cut the wall to desired size.
Once the wall inside and out is cut, use your bolster and hammer to carefully remove the bricks and plaster board.
Now its time to sweep up.
Step 6: Fitting Your Frame
With the hole cut and the area clear now its time to offer up your frame remembering your sill.
I screwed my sill onto the frame base and then offered it up. The layout of my door vs wall left me with a small gap that was just over half a bricks thickness so this is where a length of 38 mm by 63 mm stud wall timber fit snug.
i cut the timber to the same size as the hole and then screwed it in place to the top of the gap
I first screwed the door to the timber and then screwed the frame in 3 places down the sides and again across the bottom approx 150 mm up and 150 mm down and in the middle.
Before you completely tighten the screws check the squareness of the frame and pack out to ensure it keeps square when fully tightened. You can buy ready made varying thickness packers from most hardware stores or just cut slithers of the timber left over.
i decided to use self tapping 7.5 mm by 120 mm long concrete screws which caused me some grief having to pre drill frame larger than the masonry drill bit or have to take out the frame and drill further into the wall. i would suggest using rawl plugs and screws and drilling through the frame with a metal drill bit the same size as the masonry drill bit and pushing the rawl plug through the frame into the wall.
When screwing the frame to the wood at the top i would suggest using bay pole screws at 70 mm long which are like tech screws or roofing screws.
Step 7: Hanging Your Doors
Please get help as fully glazed patio doors are hard to control onto the brackets it can be done by yourself but it is hard work.
My patio doors are pinned hinge where the door has sockets and the frame has pins and its a case of lining all pins up and tapping the door down onto the pins.
Use a nylon mallet or rubber mallet to avoid damaging the hinge or door.
I hung the doors myself with 2 levers powered by my feet (timber rested on bricks underneath the door) and another lever between the door and frame to try and square the door up to the hinges. My other hand was stopping the door from falling which it did once luckily not smashing it.
LIKE I SAID GET HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Step 8: Finishing Touches
Nearly there people!!!!
All is left is re fitting and bricks that came loose, trimming around the door frame and silicon.
For loose bricks remove mortar from bricks and out a good dollop on the end going towards another brick and on the bottom until all are back and ready. leave to dry for a while and point up and brush down.
I used multipurpose caulking gun adhesive and small nails to attach the trim. Adhesive was applied in a zig zag pattern on the back side of the trim and help until dry with small nails that can be removed once dry.
Now just seal it with silicon, remember a constant pressure squeezing the trigger and move at a constant speed keeping a nice small bead.
Using a wet finger or forming tool point up your silicon so it has a nice curve and blends in to the wall, trim and Upvc.
Dont forget to seal between the frame and sill and sill and wall underneath.
Step 9: Well Done You Did It!!!!!
You have turned your window into a patio door and you will realise straight away if you have fully glazed doors that there is so much more light and your garden feels a more important part of your living space than before.
You may have converted for more light, to make moving furniture about more easily, an access to your garden or patio area or like me for a conservatory entrance but whatever your reason now you can throw open the doors and allow your hard work to be appreciated by you and others.
That's one more notch on your DIY belt. Feel proud and try something else.
Thanks for reading.
Good Luck on your next task.