I got tired of buying expensive batteries for my wireless ARLO Cameras (Not ARLO PRO or ARLO PRO2). They only last about 3 or 4 months.
In a users blog someone suggested to power the camera vie the microUSB port on the camera. I didn't notice it before because is very small and it has a white rubber plug that blends with the housing.
I didn't like the idea of exposing the camera to the weather so I decided to design a Battery Door with access to the microUSB port while keeping the camera ID.
At first I only tested thjis solution on one camera to make sure it work. Some people reported that his camera will stop running after a few days on USB 5v Power.
I experienced that issue when I used a Cellphone USB Power Adapter under 1 AMP of current.
Once I replaced it with a 2.0 AMP power adapter the camera worked well.
Now I have two cameras running since December 2017.
I recommend that before you hack your camera, you try with the power adapter that you want to use to make sure it works more than just a few hours.
Also remember to update your camera firmware.
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Step 1: Removing Battery Door
The first step is to remove the Battery Door. There are 2 small tabs that keep the Door Hinge Pin in place. Cut both of them so the Door can come off. You can use a small wire cutter or knife to do that, just be careful not t cut yourself.
Step 2: Removing MicroUSB Plug
Then remove the microUSB Connector Plug from the Camera.
Step 3: Adding Silicone to Seal the Door
Then add some silicone sealant to protect the camera from moisture if used outdoors. The silicone must be added on the indicated areas to seal the new Door.
Step 4: Install New Door
Install the new Door into the camera.
BEFORE INSTALLING THE DOOR, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE USB PLUG FROM THE CAMERA.
The door has similar tab features to the original door so it is installed off towards the back of the camera as shown on the first photo on this step and then pushed in to lock.
If you need to remove the door you may have to squeeze an X-ACTO blade on the front of the door for leverage if the door is too tight.
Excess silicone can be easily removed after it sets.
The Door I used is design for a specific USB Cable that I got from Amazon so that the USB connector overmold fits tight on the connector hole.
Once the camera is mounted, I added a little of silicone around the microUSB overmold to make a seal against moisture and plugged it into the camera.
I also designed a door that will accommodate any microUSB B Cable per standard USB.org.
Both versions are available at ETSY... build to order.
Step 5: Power the Camera
To Power the Arlo Camera I used:
20ft USB Power Cable for Nest Cam or Dropcam (Amazon Prime)
USB Charger from old Cellphone, 5 VDC 2 AMP min (Lower then 1.5 AMP may not work).
APC Back-UPS Connect UPS Battery Backup (BGE70) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KH07WRC/ref=...
I am connecting 3 Arlo Cameras to the UPS that I mounted into the Garage ceiling. If the power goes down for a few hours the UPS will keep the cameras running.
Another UPS is needed for the Wireless Router and Cable Modem to have video recording and playback on power failure.
Step 6: New Camera Door 3D File
The link above will take you to my cover, available to order 3D printed parts or to download the STL file for 3D printing parts yourself.