Introduction: Ultimate LED Light Bike
I have always wanted to make some diy LED setup for my bike.
This instructable shows all the steps I went through in designing and building this project.
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: How It Works:
It works with the help of two Arduino NANO boards, on which we have the programmed Atmel ATmega328 microcontroller. At the output, we use a MOSFET transistor to drive the front high beam LED, for the tail lights we use the WS2812 LED digital strip, which is triggered by the Arduino NANO. We use the push button (which hold their position) to activate the turn lights.
Step 2: Let's Start, Parts and Tools:
- 2 x Voltage regulator LM317
- 3 x 10Ω resistor
- 1 x 47Ω resistor
- 1 x 1kΩ resistor
- 1 x 100Ω resistor
- 4 x 470Ω resistor
- 1 x 500Ω resistor
- 1 x 560Ω resistor
- 1 x 3kΩ resistor
- 7 x 10kΩ resistor
- 1 x MOSFET transistor FQP30N06L
- 2 x Arduino NANO ATmega328
- 2 x LED strip type WS2812 (14LEDs)
- 2 x LED strip type WS2812 (27LEDs)
1x PCB plate
4 x terminals for Arduino(watch for pin connections)
- 8 x Input / output terminals (2pin)
4 x Input / output terminals (3pin)
Total amount = 52 parts
- Solder gun and solder
- Wire cutters
- Needle nose pliers
- Drill and drill points
- Hand or powered saw
- Rotary Tool
- Digital multimeter
- rosin powder
- stronger plastic pot
- Safety Glasses :)
Step 3: Designing a PCB With Computer:
To create a circuit that is fixed, you can choose between hand-drawn and
computer design. Before we start with any mode, we need to have absolutely all the components (elements) on the table, because it is necessary for the production rate of each individual element and a range of terminals (pins) element. This is good for us to make a nice visual and not overcrowded circuit, because if you would not have previously elements on the table, it could after the drawing during the manufacture of the elements too compressed or even would not be enough space to be firmly installed in the circuit.
The product will be formed with the help of a computer program EAGLE (Easily Applicable Graphical Layout). The program allows us to draw power plan, and then using it to draw the plate elements and connections. Once you have done the layout elements and links between them we have need before printing connections on a sheet, set in the program Mirror function, otherwise the circuit seen by bird perspective. When pressed on the link list do with a ruler lightly network that we had on the computer while drawing connections is 1/10 inch (2,54mm).
This program is free and can be downloads from this link:
I have made my own PCB board in computer program EAGLE, if you want to use my designed PCB i have posted my file for use in program EAGLE.
Step 4: Preparing the PCB:
Preparation of plates:
We are ready for the production of circuit boards, for the manufacture of the plate is used which is drilled in the form of a network that is 1/10 inch, and has on one side the copper islands. First, we cut at an appropriate size, taking care that the cut to a bigger surface area than the surface of the links. To have on at least one side type of copper islets blank. Then, purification of copper islands with iron sponge so that on smooth rubbed in one lengthwise (forwards-backwards) and without the circular movements. This work is to get clean copper from dirt from the upper surface that has been accumulated. Clarified top surface of copper needs to shine. Sharp edges rounded off.
The dimensions of the circuit:
Length: 31 in spacing of 1 / 10inch Network (7,9cm)
Width: 21 in spacing of 1 / 10inch Network (5,3cm)
Step 5: Solder Part:
Then take a cut plate and sheet in which the connections and electrical elements and begin by soldering elements and dragging the links for copper islands.Take care that the soldering tip is always clean, because it is helping to create better connections and faster solubility of tin.
Step 6: Verification and Protective Liquid:
Then comes a phase in which the conductivity is checked connections and possible short circuits and what possible missed connections. When we find that all connections are correct and we do not have any error going on a protective spread connection and the lower part of the circuit.
This is done on the stronger plastic pot (from an empty glue for wood cut container in the middle and give the cup) and pour thinner rosin powder and stir with a brush so long that the dust in fully decomposition, we obtain the fluid is yellow. If you pour the liquid into a softer plastic cup, after 1 min will eats it from the bottom, since it practically eats things because it is corrosive. When we have a brush greased underside of the circuit, leave the coating is dried, so we links give protection against oxidation. The coating is not relevant when soldering, so you can still fix anything.
Step 7: Specifications Circuit and Connection:
Specifications circuit (U, I, P):
U = 12V DC
I (tail lights + front high lights)= 0,85A
I (tail lights +front high and low lights)=1,27A
I (tail lights +front high beam lights + turn light)=1A
P(tail lights + front high beam lights)=10,2W
P(tail lights + front high beam lights + turn light)=12W
Step 8: Programing Microcontrollers:
You can download the Arduino IDE for free from:
Step 9: Making Ventilation Duct
The ventilation duct is designed to cool down transistors due to the front high lights. It has a plastic ramp, that prevents rain from entering. We use little fan to draws air into the housing, plastic barrier is used to prevent air to go straight thru ventilation duct.
Step 10: Layout Plan
Step 11: Put Everything Together
I have also add IR RGB LED strip controller, it was optional.
Step 12: Video of Working:
I hope that you enjoyed following me along with this Instructable!
Thank you for reading!
Check out the video :) :
This is an entry in the
Make it Glow Contest