V2 Beast- an Airsoft Support Sniper



About: I am a recent graduate of the Sustainable Manufacturing program at California State University Chico. I currently consult with local businesses and provide freelance design work. I've been making things for ...

Anyone who pays attention to my builds will remember this.

The original Beast sniper conversion was awesome, and still in use today. That gun, however was my friend's, so I don't get to use it anymore. To remedy this, I completed the logical step, and built another. This gun works on the same basic principle, but is in reality a whole different animal.

This one has a lot more upgrades, better balance, cleaner lines, and generally more whoop-ass packed into a sleeker and sexier package.

What follows is a set of instructions and a discussion of this gun and others like it.

Step 1: What's New, Pussycat?

Here is a quick list of the features, comparing the V1 and the V2.

Version 1:
  •     Based on a Tippman 98 Custom paintball marker
  •     22 inch Angel Custom tight-bore barrel
  •     Drain-cock loading valve
  •     Open breech
  •     Home-built stock
  •     Home-built under barrel canister  rack
  •     Modification of gun body required
  •     No hop-up
  •     Open-backed Airsoft barrel

Version 2:
  •     Based on a Spyder MR1 paintball marker
  •     20 inch stock tubing barrel
  •     Rotating external bolt loading system
  •     Vented breech
  •     Modified Spyder stock
  •     Screw-in canister attachment
  •     No gun body modification, only removing a few parts
  •     Hop-Up
  •     Gas-direction system in the back of the Airsoft barrel
At some point I will retrofit the V1 with some of these upgrades to improve it's slightly lacking performance.

Step 2: What Does This Button Do?

Here I will discuss the new upgrades, what they do, and why.

Using a Spyder MR1 instead of a Tipmann 98 C
  • One of my friends had an MR1 he was willing to sell for a great price, plus it's compact construction, clean lines, and the fact that it came with a stock made it a great candidate for the conversion process.
  • This gun has a breech that has a bracket mount around it so it can easily be sealed, and does not have a fore-grip that I have to drill through. The Tippmann has a breech that is difficult to seal and an integrated forward grip that needs to be drilled in order to route the gas hose.
Using stock tubing for the barrel instead of a fancy tight bore
  • The original barrel in the V1 was made of stock 6mm aluminum tubing, but then my friend upgraded it to a beautiful Stainless steel Angel Custom tight bore barrel. The original barrel was kind of inconsistent, but it worked well enough. The tight bore works consistently, but it is much more finicky.
  • I decided on the stock tubing for two reasons: Price, and the accuracy would be greatly improved anyway because this gun will have a hop-up.
  • The aluminum tubing is easy to work and costs very little to replace, whereas the tight bore eats rotary tool bits for lunch and if you break it, you lose about $70.
  • The aluminum is really light, while the tight bore is so heavy that it adds noticeable heft to the already weighty gun.
A rotating external bolt system instead of a drain valve loading system
  • The drain valve was annoying, it stuck out and got in the way, and was a pain to work and load the ammo into every shot.
  • Putting the flat on the side of the barrel saves a bunch of space.
  • Making the bolt a rotating bolt is simple effect, has one tough moving part, and can be smoothly operated.
  • This system is safer because with the drain valve system, if you left the valve open and fired, the BB could shoot out the side of the gun. With this system, if one leaves the bolt open, the BB will shoot out the top, away from other players. 
  • Having the loading hole on top makes loading a more ambidextrous action. 
  • The simple up-down of the action is easy to operate by feel.
A suppressed breech instead of an open breech
  • In the V1 gun, the open breech caused many problems. It dumped most of the gas before it got to the barrel. It was very loud, and blasted out a big cloud of gas in humid weather. The open breech had nothing to keep foreign objects from falling in it and messing up the gun.
  • In this version, I have tried something much different. I have not sealed the breech entirely, just restricted it's gas flow somewhat and redirected the escaping gas into a suppressor in order to eliminate the noise and gas clouds. The breech is still technically "open," but nowhere near as much gas can instantly be lost from the gun system.
  • I originally wanted to seal the breech entirely, but lots of people online told me that was a horrible idea.

Modified Spyder stock instead of a home made stock
  • The V1 stock looked cool, but it's mounting straps hit the back of my hand and it was heavy. It was also amazingly comfortable and very well sized.
  • This gun came with a stock that was sturdy and lightweight composite, and easily modified to allow down-the-sights aiming. I opted to keep this one because it was just so light and simple. On the V1 I spent hours making the stock, and on this one I spent maybe 5 minutes cutting the top bar out.
Simple canister attachment
  • The V1 gun had a huge cumbersome rack for the canister under the front barrel that was annoying to load, looked bad, and got in the way.
  • This new clip mount allows you to just screw in the canister like on a normal paintball gun, much nicer and with a much lower profile than the V1 design. I am using a 9Oz. slim tank, which is the largest size I would recommend.
No gun body modification
  • As mentioned earlier, this model of gun does not require me to physically modify the parts there, only to unscrew a few pieces and move them around, or take them off altogether. In the V1, the whole gun had to be disassembled to route the gas hose, but this one is simple.

Hop up system vs. no hop up system
  • Hop up systems greatly improve the accuracy and range of any Airsoft gun. It just made sense to add one, after I figured out a way to easily make one. This system is basically just a screw through the outer barrel and a rubber sheath over a hole in the Airsoft barrel. As far as hop-ups get, this is about the most basic adjustable one possible.
Gas guiding system on the back of the Airsoft barrel
  • In the V1 gun, the back of the Airsoft barrel stuck out into the back of the outer barrel, with no gas funneling system. Basically, the gas was blasted into the system, and what little gas could get into the barrel made it in, while the rest was just blasted out the breech. This created a lot of turbulence in the barrel and wasted gas, which affected power and accuracy.
  • In this gun, I have put a "funnel" of sorts into the back of the barrel to direct as much of the gas blast as possible into the back of the Airsoft barrel. Using a smooth funnel also reduces turbulence in the gas feeding. The excess gas exits through the suppressed breech.

Step 3: Preparing the Gun

Ok, now let's start the conversion process.

Remove the CO2 tank, barrel, hopper, and feed elbow from your gun, if you haven't already.

Locate the two screws that hold the tank mount to the bottom of the handle.

Using a #3 metric Allen wrench, remove the screws, pull away the tank mount and feed hose, and replace the screws back where they came from.

Now, unscrew the tank mount from the feed hose with pliers, preferably ones with padded jaws. Set the tank mount aside

Locate the two screw heads in the bottom of the forward grip. Using the #3 Allen wrench, unscrew them, and remove the whole front grip assembly, as shown.

Locate the screws holding the feed elbow mounting plate over the breech. Remove them with a #2.5 metric Allen wrench, and take off the mounting plate.

Locate the screw in the rear site of the gun, behind the charging handle. Remove it with the #3 wrench, and pull the stock out.

You are now finished with the initial break down of the gun. Take the hopper, feed elbow, feed elbow mounting plate, fore grip, and the screws from the fore grip and store them somewhere. You no longer need them. Keep the screws from the feed elbow mounting plate, and from the stock though, you will need them later in the process.

Step 4: Cutting the Stock

Take the stock and cut it as shown. It will still be sturdy enough after cutting to stand up to normal use. The material is not very dense, so I could cut it with an ordinary handsaw. Use a file to clean up the edges of the cuts.

Re-attach the stock to the gun by sticking the stock in and screwing the screw back in using the #3 Allen wrench.

The stock is finished.

Wasn't that easy?

Step 5: The Barrel Part One: Inner Barrel

Get your piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe and cut it to the desired length.

Get the 1/2 inch-3/4 inch coupling, and solder it onto the tip of the 1/2 inch pipe. The solder weld does not have to be air or water tight, just strong enough to stand up to normal abuse.

If you don't know how to solder pipe, here's an Ible for that.

You don't have to clean the pipe as well as that guy did since this isn't for water usage, just steel wool or lightly sand the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting and you should be good.

Next, get your 6mm tubing and cut it to length. I recommend about 3 or 4 inches longer than your copper pipe. I cut mine with a tubing cutter and deburred it with a Dremel tool. The tubing is ready when you can drop a BB in one end and it rolls cleanly through and falls out the other side.

Next, wrap the aluminum tubing with electric tape in a few places, so it slides into the copper pipe without wobbling at all. Line the aluminum tubing up with the threaded end of the copper and epoxy that end in place. Keep the epoxy out of the threads and the barrel. Let it set it's full drying time before flipping the assembly over and epoxying the other end. Here I am using SiliconeForce epoxy, but I highly recommend JB weld, which I later used.

Finally, about one inch from the protruding end of the Aluminum tubing, cut a hole in the side so that a BB can be dropped into it. As before, make sure that you can drop the BB in and have it cleanly slide all the way down the barrel. Refer to the last picture. I used a Dremel tool.

There, that's your inner barrel.

Step 6: The Barrel Part Two: the Outer Barrel and Bolt

Now, we are going to do the machining of the paintball barrel. I am using the standard 12 inch MR1 barrel, which is cheap and made of aluminum. If you have a really nice barrel, I recommend going and getting a cheap barrel like this instead of cutting up your nice barrel.
*note: I screwed up this barrel on something so I just cut the first 1/4 inch off it to fix it, so it's a little shorter. It makes no difference.

So, screw your barrel all the way in, and mark a place about a half inch from the front of the gun directly on top, as shown. Double check this, then drill it out. The size of the bit doesn't matter much, as long as a BB will go through it with some room to spare.

Go slow and be careful.

Now, go cut a piece of one inch PVC pipe about 1.5 inches long.

Slit it down it's side as shown. Then, heat it over a flame until it becomes slightly flexible, so you can slide it over the paintball barrel. Leave it on there for a minute or so to let it cool and return to it's former rigidity. Then slide it off, mark it as  shown, and cut. These cuts are to provide clearance for the front tube plug of the gun. They don't have to be exact, just good enough to allow the PVC to sit snugly against the front of the gun when the barrel is on and allow the PVC to rotate about half an inch or so before it gets stopped.

Slide the PVC piece onto the barrel when it is screwed on. Make sure it is backed up against the gun snugly. Pointing the gun away from you, rotate the PVC piece to the left until it stops. Drill a hole through that is the same size of the hole in the barrel. Make sure they line up well. If not, no biggie, just make another PVC piece, it's easy to do. A BB has to be able to fall cleanly through both holes into the barrel. Now, you should be able to rotate the piece to the right to seal the hole, and to the left to expose it. This is your external bolt.

Step 7: Barrel Part Three, Barrel Jacket and Muzzle Break

Okay, now to bulk up the barrel and add a muzzle break.

get your 3/4-1 inch coupler, and grind down the inside of the 3/4 inch side to fit snugly over the paintball barrel muzzle. drill holes in the coupler that correspond to the vent holes in the end of the barrel.

Cut a piece of 1 inch PVC that fits the length of the two barrel pieces, and glue it into the 1-inch side of the coupling.

slide the copper inner barrel into the PVC pipe and glue it in place on the end right below the end of the threaded fitting as shown.

Slide the paintball barrel up over the copper inner barrel, until it mates with the PVC fitting. Make sure all the holes line up.

Finally, screw short machine screws through the coupler holes into the paintball barrel, holding it all together.

No large sniper rifle is complete without a big fat muzzle break. Grab the 1inch-3/4 thread tee fitting and screw it on the copper threaded fitting. Drill a half inch hole in the fitting to allow for BB clearance. This has no effect on the gun, just makes it look better.

Step 8: Gas Funnel

To better direct the gas into the back of the Airsoft barrel, we are building a funnel.

Go get an empty 12 gram co2 cartridge. Make sure it is empty, and drill out the remaining seal on the end so it is a smooth opening.

cut off the pointy end as shown. Sand or file down around the outer edge of this piece so it pops into the  back of the paintball barrel, while still allowing the barrel to fully screw on.

The point end should line up snugly with the back of the airsoft barrel when the inner and paintball barrels are assembled.

Basically this just funnels all the air into the barrel more cleanly and reduces turbulence, therefore increasing power and accuracy.

Step 9: Barrel Hard Point

Grab a piece o f wood, screw a few U-clamps onto it. Test fit it to the gun. The wood can be whatever size you desire.

Bend a piece of welding stock or other metal, about 5 inches long. Mount it to the block of wood as shown. his will be your mount for the paintball tank fitting.

Mount your bipod if you are using one on the other end of this block, with the feet facing back towards the shooter.

Now your hard point is ready to stick to the gun.

Not many pictures for this, I'm not sure where they went..

Step 10: Done!

Here's the finished gun.

A lot of the pictures have gone missing, so I will update this next time I get the gun out and take pictures, and give you all a better look.

I have almost not used this gun at all. I need to tweak it, but the few dozen shots I have done so far are super powerful yet very inaccurate. It now languishes in my closet while I am away at college.

This is very much an unfinished and in-progress build. I have been on it now for a few months, and figured I should get the gun out for all to see.


On the way:
-hop up
-new barrel
-accuracy/power reviews
-more in depth pictures and steps
-in-game use reviews

NOW- Vote! this s the second gun in a saga of paintball conversions, and has taken significant time and effort to bring you something pretty unique. I would greatly appreciate a vote in the contests, if you like it, vote! Thank you for being great fans.


Instructables Design Competition

Participated in the
Instructables Design Competition



    • Stone Concrete and Cement Contest

      Stone Concrete and Cement Contest
    • Beauty Tips Contest

      Beauty Tips Contest
    • Sew Tough Challenge

      Sew Tough Challenge