Wall Mounted Folding Chair

About: ...diY...

Whenever we leave the apartment, I go into the hall, leave my slippers
there, grab my shoes and go into the hall to put my shoes on a chair ... If I make a mess, I'll get in trouble with the government! Clear . How can you change that ? The hall is too narrow to deposit a chair there. On the flat old part of the shoe cabinet, you could settle down, but it is narrow and you have the wardrobe in the back. It had to be something that has space next to the large shoe cabinet and does not bother you when you open the front door. It would have to fold it ... A folding seat so. I wanted something cheap (in net not cheap ...), which does not look like subway and where you can not pinch anything. The Bundschuh project finally gave me the idea to build it myself. However, I could not think of anything to hide the hinges. So I chose wood ... see for yourself. I wish you much fun !

Step 1: Planning, Research ...

I had to find out how such a thing could work. How is it based and how can I make it disappear?
With the idea and a rough sketch, it went into the basement to build at least one model ... It is very cheap with the German batten - to taste always good. So a few small pieces were sawed and drilled quickly. The "seat bar" and the cross bar are milled. Then the parts are glued, slightly rounded and presented presentable. Behold, it could work ...

Step 2: First Start the Seat ...

First of all, I started to make the seat and brackets to find out how big the case must be to bring it all down.
For the angles, I've made a template so that they all have the same shape in the end. Doublesided tape is awesome. From the seat rails, I had already cut five of my plate in the hardware store and then selected the four best ones - of the quality. Then there was a short trial. Seat rails and the cross bar should each overlap in half. For this, I glued the seat rails all side by side on a thin MDF board and milled them together. Then angles and strips were placed on the crossbar and the milling was marked there. To have some game, there were still U-discs to it. Then I also milled the crossbar. Finally, everyone was allowed to sit down again ...

Step 3: Make Plates ...

I cut the plates myself with the PKS. Since it is not so easy to catch everything so exactly, I have corrected the plates all with the router. That worked well and brings a clean cut for later gluing.
After a test drive of all the important parts, I was reasonably sure that I did not incorporate a big mistake. However, I sawed the floor twice. the first one was too small and later became the lid ... Now I have also dared to marry the seat rails with the cross bar - no glue.

Step 4: Finish the Angle ...

It continues - the angles are to their places.
Mark in the middle and pierce. Then the first drill step for this project starts ... The EasyImpack helped me a lot. Three brand new wood drills could also be useful. Using centering tips, I set the location of the holes in the back plate and then drilled. An eighth wooden dowel was added and with the utmost care I glued the important angles. You certainly know what it's like to hear later: "Only one angle may be a bit crooked ..." It hurts, but you can not answer. Every day after work an angle and a bit of the grinding work ... For the next weekend they stood there - in rank and file. And a dress rehearsal was also very satisfactory. For the photo with support ...

Step 5: The Lid

Just such a flat lid was not enough for me and you have to try something new again ...
As I said, the lid was the wrong sawn bottom. His measurements were so set. He should but overhang something and make the angles disappear. So it had to be two pieces that I had to glue. So I could try my Horizontalfrästisch again at an angle. The intermediate piece should have an angle of 45 degrees on both sides. I did not succeed with the sample because I was too generous when setting it up. But now it worked well and I was satisfied. Piece by piece and with a lot of fumbling the lid was now glued together, then carefully rounded off nicely. Sanding and polishing - as always.

Step 6: Finishing + Coloring

On to the next drilling orgy
The transfer of the dowel holes between the angles and the front plate with the marking tips happened lying down. And although I have between the back and the front plate interposed so much that they reached the height of the side plates - fumbling again, but it fit well later. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture, only when drilling. All parts were connected with 8 wooden dowels. Only the connection between the side plates and the outer angles decorates a 6mm dowel. Everything was glued. Only the bottom is screwed - but has four dowels ...

Now the seat has to be clean and the lid on.
Generously gets each seat bar from me two dowels and so I have to miss the lid eight holes. Under the pressure of my two self-made roof battens - Leimzwingen the whole thing is left overnight to dry in peace. From below, the seat rails get two position wedges, so that the lid always sits in the correct rest position.

To grow I could drill two holes at the top, but below something else had to come from. I opted for an aluminum sheet.
With the help of the small Mactec and a 1/2 inch slot cutter, I have milled a groove of 2mm depth to sink the retaining plate and screwed the sheet there. Below it looks a bit out, but most of it disappears behind the baseboard. I had to change that I lowered all three holes in the sheet metal from the same side. Three 8mm dowels carry the whole thing and hold it securely on the wall. If you fold out the seat, it has a height of 45 cm - chair height. And most importantly - it carries my 90 kg! (Ca ...).



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    8 Discussions


    1 year ago

    Great design! Kudos!


    1 year ago

    Very clever and nice instructable! Thanks!


    1 year ago

    Nice job! This would be great just outside of my front door.


    1 year ago



    1 year ago

    This is simply brilliant!


    1 year ago

    Super cool. Instant get.


    1 year ago

    Slick design.