Weld a Simple Mobile Bandsaw Stand

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Introduction: Weld a Simple Mobile Bandsaw Stand

About: I got an old sewing machine when I was just a kid, and I've been hooked on making stuff ever since. My name is Sam and I'm a community manager here at Instructables.

I recently got a small benchtop-style 10-inch bandsaw and decided to build a simple mobile stand for it.

This instructable covers the build process. If you're looking to make something similar I hope this will help you out.

This is a welding project that requires basic metalworking tools. Thanks for looking!

Step 1: Background, Reasoning

For the last 10 years or so I had a JET brand 18-inch woodworking bandsaw. It was really nice but I didn't use it much and it was quite large and overkill for my needs, so I decided to sell it and downsize to something smaller.

My garage workshop doubles as an actual car garage (sometimes), so I tend to put all my larger tools on wheels to make them as mobile as possible.

I specifically chose to make this mobile stand with three wheels because my garage floor is horribly uneven, and anything with four wheels rarely sits flat without wobbling - no matter where I put it.

Having three points of contact (wheels) was a choice I fully committed to, even if that required loads of extra bottom weight to minimize any tip potential. A single locking caster keeps it perfectly steady during use.

This new saw is the 10-inch Rikon 10-3601 and I've found it to be quite nice once dialed in and paired with some good Timberwolf blades (affiliate links, this step only).

I don't do any re-sawing and rarely have the need to rip down massive boards, so a smaller bandsaw is adequate for most of my projects. However this model weighs about 80 pounds so it's not as easy to move around as you'd think based on the size, hence me wanting a mobile stand for it.

Step 2: Materials and Cut List

I wanted this to be simple and minimal but intentionally very bottom-heavy, so I opted to use some 2" by 3" by 1/8"-thick metal tubing I had left over from a previous project (this: Retro-Style Camping Gear Trailer).

The stand alone is about 50 pounds, but once completed I added an additional 100 pounds of weight as well.

Mounted in the stand, the bandsaw's table height is just under 45 inches. Depending on your saw and your height you could make this higher or lower as needed by adjusting the length of the two 20" pieces noted below.

Here are the cut lengths of the tubing pieces:

  • one @ 22"
  • two @ 20"
  • one @ 16"
  • one @ 14"
  • two @ 3.25" (with each cut in half as shown in 2nd photo to make 4 angled brackets)

In addition I also used:

All of the metal was cut primarily using a metal cutting bandsaw (shown in this other instructable Portable Bandsaw Metal Stand) or an angle grinder with cutoff wheel when needed. It's critical that cuts are square so be sure to measure and cut accurately.

Step 3: Weld Lower T Section

For all welding I'm using a 110v mig welder with argon/CO2 gas mix.

The 22" tubing piece is welded to the middle of the 14" piece, although propped up 1/2" as shown in the photo.

This placement was figured based on the height where the axle rod needed to be, in order to result in a level stand once the differently-sized wheels are attached.

Depending on what size wheels you use, you may have to make adjustments to account for your specific wheels.

Step 4: Weld Upper Support Section

The four support brackets are welded to the 16-inch piece of tubing as shown to create the top support portion of the stand.

My internal welds aren't terribly pretty, but they're hidden so no one will ever know! ;)

Step 5: Add Legs

The two 20-inch tubing pieces are welded to the underside of the upper support section as shown.

These are initially tacked in place and then full weld beads are added.

Step 6: Attach Lower T Section

The upper section and lower T section are now welded together.

The front, single wheel location extends 4 inches beyond the nearest leg of the upper section, which keeps the three wheels spread out for a balanced stance.

The upper section is tacked in place, and then full beads are welded.

Step 7: Mount Locking Caster

The front single locking caster wheels is bolted in place.

Locations for bolts are marked and drilled using a step drill bit, and four 1/4" bolts are used to fasten the caster in place with washers and lock nuts.

Step 8: Weld Rear Axle in Place

The 5/8" metal axle rod is welded in place on the underside of the back part of the T portion of the stand.

I thought I needed just a little more height on this side of the stand to make the top level, so I added some shims to stand it off from the frame just a little using a pair of sample Formica (laminate) chips from the hardware store.

Step 9: Add Rear Wheels

The rear wheels are held in place by cotter pins, placed into holes drilled through the axle ends.

Large washers are used on either side of the wheels.

Step 10: Additional Weight

A small piece of scrap 1" metal pipe was welded to the inside of the stand to hold additional weights.

I initially put a stack of four 10 lb weights in the stand, and I felt this was pretty stable. However I came across four used 25 lb weights for sale, so I bought these and swapped them in and now the stand is incredibly bottom-heavy - more than stable enough for typical safe and reasonable use of the saw.

Step 11: Clean Up Spatter and Mount Bandsaw

Any weld spatter was knocked off with an old chisel. I decided to not paint the stand, as I kind of like it just plain and honest.

Holes were marked and drilled into the top support portion of the stand, and the bandsaw was bolted to the stand using 1/4" bolts, washers and lock nuts, along with some shims made from Formica chips to dial in the level-ness of everything.

Step 12: Put a Name on It

This is silly, but I'm a silly fella.

The original name plate on this saw said "RIKON" but I pulled that off.

I had this plastic "CRAFTSMAN" badge, so I cut it up and glued magnets to the back of each letter.

My kids rearranged the letters till we found the silliest name we could come up with.

Personally, I like "FARMNCATS" but they felt "FARTSMAN" was especially apt..

- - - - -

Thanks for checking this out, and if you've got any suggestions for alternate bandsaw names be sure to leave them in the comments!

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    13 Discussions

    1
    danthemakerman
    danthemakerman

    5 days ago

    LOL!!! I was confused by the brand name and color scheme at first. Changing the name was a nice touch!

    0
    Errol1951
    Errol1951

    8 days ago

    I made mine out of wood but I added metal threaded inserts in my work bench and when I use my bandsaw it securely attaches to the side of my workbench and I can use my workbench as an out feed table just a couple of minutes and they are 1 piece

    0
    zhn27e
    zhn27e

    9 days ago

    Вам нужны четыре колеса для устойчивости. Два поворотных колеса вместо одного

    0
    seamster
    seamster

    Reply 8 days ago

    Да, это хороший вариант, если у вас ровный пол. На данный момент весь дополнительный вес дна делает его очень устойчивым, и с тремя колесами он не качается, независимо от того, где я его положил.

    0
    fredrick.miller.9
    fredrick.miller.9

    10 days ago

    I'm sorry but that looks top heavy and dangerous to tip over.

    0
    seamster
    seamster

    Reply 10 days ago

    Eh, it's not. If it was, I'd add even more weight to the bottom, as I certainly don't want to tip over an expensive tool ;)

    0
    scottiesharpe
    scottiesharpe

    10 days ago on Step 2

    The fartsman badge is hilarious. Four locking wheels is best for any cart taking a sideload. Keep building!

    0
    Rwags
    Rwags

    10 days ago

    Filling the frame with sand would also increase the weight.

    0
    ariekaptein
    ariekaptein

    10 days ago

    If I were you, I'd turn the bandsaw 180 degrees so that the table is atop the twin wheels.
    Less risk of tipping over when you put some pressure ot the sawing-table

    0
    seamster
    seamster

    Reply 10 days ago

    Interesting thought, which I also had but ultimately dismissed. In that setup, I felt a large wheel right where I need to stand would pose more problems and risk than any potential for tipping.

    I have no issues so far, especially with the additional 40 lbs of bottom weight. My experience suggests that the amount of pressure needed to tip this over would only occur if a person were trying to run material through it that's either too big or too heavy for a saw this size.

    Likewise, if it's direct pressure on the blade that's potentially tipping this over, then the blade is clearly too dull and needs to be replaced.

    0
    Penolopy Bulnick
    Penolopy Bulnick

    12 days ago

    Very nicely done and I love what you did with the name letters, making them into magnets :)