Wind Turbine Model Construction That Generates Real Electricity

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Introduction: Wind Turbine Model Construction That Generates Real Electricity

Hi everyone i am Swachhand, this instructable will show you how to make a wind turbine model that generates REAL electricity.....

This Is My First Instructable........

Step 1: Gathering Parts

Parts Required :

1.) 25mm Venetian blind louvre (8 cm) 8 pieces required - for turbine blades
2.) 6mm wooden dowel (8 cm) 8 pieces required - for blade arms
3.) 10mm Polyethylene (Cutting board or similar) [40mm diameter] 1 piece required - for turbine hub
4.) 25mm PVC electrical conduit (210mm) 1 piece required - for swinging arm
5.) Hobby Motor - Low torque (Nominal 3 Volts) 1 piece required - for generator
6.) 25mm wooden dowel (260 mm) 1 piece required - for support tower
7.) 20mm MDF (140mm sq) 1 piece required - for base
8.) Banana Socket (To suit multimeter leads) 2 pieces required
9.) 3mm Plastic sheet or stiff card (100mm x 30mm) 1 piece required - for tail fin
10.) Hookup wire (500 mm long) 2 pieces required
11.) Digital Multimeter
12.) Retaining screw to secure motor (3mm x 10mm long with lock nut)

Tools Required :

1.) screw driver
2.) solder iron
3.) drilling machine

Step 2: Blade Construction

Blades made from venetian blind louvres. (Be careful of sharp edges when cutting).
If louvres are not available, blades may be carefully cut from margarine containers or similar.

Arms are made from wooden dowel with slits cut in one end. When blades are inserted, use glue gun or PVA glue to hold in position.

Central disk has been cut from a polyethylene cutting board using a fret saw or turned in a lathe if available.

Carefully drill radial holes at 45 degrees spacing around the hub. These need to be a snug fit with the wooden dowels

Adjust the angle of the blades by twisting the arms, thereby altering the efficiency and output of the wind turbine.

Drill a small hole in the centre of the hub to be a snug fit onto the shaft of the generator.

Step 3: Installing the Generator

Solder a length of hook-up wire to each of the terminals of the generator.

The generator is retained in the arm by gentle pressure from the retaining screw in the top of the PVC tube.

Be very careful not to overtighten as this can prevent generator rotor from spinning.

Holes drilled in arm will allow wires to run from generator down the centre of the pivot.

Pivot hole should be drilled through at the 'balance point' of the arm when generator, blades and fin are fitted.

Step 4: Installing the Pivot

The pivot is made from brass tubing which can be obtained from most model shops.

Drill a hole about 15mm into the Support Tower to accommodate tubing.

Step 5: Termination of Wires

Drill a hole into the side of the pivot hole to allow wires to exit tower.


The wires then are connected to the 2 Banana sockets on the base.

Step 6: How Does This Work ?

As the blades turn in the wind , the electric motor spins and behaves like a generator, creating a small electric current which travels down the wires to the terminal at the bottom of the model.

Connect the multimeter to these terminals and place the turbine in front of and electric fan or in a gentle breeze.

Measure the voltage, amperage (current) and calculate the total wattage produced.

Watts = Volts x Amps.

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    82 Discussions

    Any tips on building this model

    So i guess that this produced about 1 volt in a tornado of wind,right? Those motors aren't to good generators,You Should use A Stepper Motor,They can generate up to 30 volts,And Up tp 10 Volts just by spinning it by hand,But the Electricity Is in AC,You need to Follow a simple schematic to harvest electricity from them,I hope you find it useful.

    stepperwire.gif
    18 replies

    Hi, I have taken the stepper motor from an old flatbed scanner (it was smaller than I thought it was going to be), and there are 5 wires (black, red, yellow, orange and brown). I connected up the red and the black to my multimeter and put the cog in a hand-held drill and spun it. I get a random reading if I spin it slowly, but if I increase the speed the reading drops to 00.1 or 00.2. Is this what I should expect?

    Actually whilst rummaging around I found a bigger motor with more torque. It's a 120v 60hz 4watt motor. I wired the two red wires (it only had two wires) into my breadboard with a resistor and a red LED, attached my chordless drill, spun it up and sure enough I have a nice bright LED firing up. I naughtilly took out the resistor expecting the LED to get VERY bright, but it simly stays the same brightness. When I attach my multimeter it seems to generate up to 60v. Would using this motor be easier than the stepper motor from the scanner or should I still go with that one?

    thats what I did and I managed to charge a capacitor with 25volts and when I shorted it, it made a plesing spark! XD

    yeah thats so true when your messing with disposable cameras, I hate how they 're just waiting for you to touck the leads... they are watching us!!!!

    Yes,and for that 50 miliseconds that you think that they are touching,when they arent,its like"Hey,its not charged?" And then BAM

    But now,we have a secret weapon,A 5Kohm resistor and alligator clips! Now,We will never be startled again! HAHA(evil laugh goes here)