Note: My camera fell out of my pocket almost immediately after I started this project, and of course it no longer turns on. :( So, I took a lot of pictures afterward with a different camera, and used Kaptin Scarlet's Technique.
This Instructable involves using power tools. Be careful when using power tools, and wear safety glasses.
This is a video of how it works:
Step 1: Materials and Tools
- 8ft of 2x4
- 74in of 1/2" conduit ( OD .71" ID .62" )
- 2 scraps of about 2in x 16in 1/8" thick wood
- 8 Long wood screws
- 6 short wood screws
- OPTIONAL: Rolling Base
- Bandsaw, Jigsaw, or Circular Saw (Circular Saw won't work as good as the others)
- Metal Drop Saw
- 30-60-90 Triangle or Protractor
- 3/4" Drill Bit or 3/4" Hole Saw
- Paint Brush
Step 2: Mark and Cut Out the Side Pieces
- Mark a line on the 2x4 at 20"
- Cut it
- Repeat 1 & 2
Step 3: Mark and Drill Holes in the Side Pieces
- Mark the center of the board on both ends.
- Connect these marks to form a line that runs the length of the board
- Put marks on the center line at 2.5", 7.5", 12.5", and 17.5".
- Drill holes on the marks with a 3/4" Hole Saw or 3/4" Bit (note: This is easier to do with a drill press (that's what I used). If you use a drill press make sure to clamp the wood down, otherwise it can catch and start spinning.)
Step 4: Mark and Cut Out Notches on the Side Pieces
- Line up the edge of the triangle with the edge of the board.
- Draw a line at 60o from the edge of the hole to the edge of the board.
- Cut along the lines.
- If necessary you can file or sand the notch to make it smooth, or a better fit for the rod.
Step 5: Mark and Cut Out Top and Bottom Pieces
- Mark a line at 19"
- Cut it
- Repeat 1-2
Step 6: Screw It Together
The top piece goes on top of the side piece. You may need to drill pilot holes to prevent splitting. Use two (large) screws on each piece. After you put the first side piece on, screw the other one on, and then screw the bottom on. When you screw the bottom on, one screw on each side will have to be screwed in at an angle, so that it doesn't go into the notch. A pilot hole will help when trying to put the screw in at an angle.
You should now have a box with the top piece on top of the side pieces, and the bottom attached in the same manner. This is VERY important.
Step 7: Put Small Side Pieces On
The small side pieces are about 2" x 16" and 1/8" thick. They were just scraps that I had laying around. You may have to cut some out. The purpose of them is to prevent the bars from sliding out the sides.
Simply put one (small) screw at the top, one in the middle, and one on the bottom. Make sure the screw goes into the wood, and not into the notch.
Step 8: Cut the Conduit
The conduit should be cut in lengths of 18.5" with a metal drop saw. You will need 4.
Step 9: Optional: Screw It to a Rolling Base
I had a rolling base leftover from a different project, so I just screwed this to it. The base is just a 6"x16" piece of 1/2" MDF with 4 casters screwed to the bottom.
If you don't add a base like this, you should consider screwing a rectangular piece of wood without wheels, because if you don't have a base of any kind, then the wire organizer will tip easily.
Step 10: Paint It
Adding paint makes it look a lot better and more professional.
Step 11: Final Thoughts
- Wow! Tracing pictures and then assembling drawings from them takes a very long time. Kudos to KaptinScarlet.
- Most of this material was already in the garbage can before I made it, so I cost nothing to make.
- A problem that I didn't discover until I finished it was that you can use big spools on then top, because the spools hits the top when you try to put the rod back in.
- If you have and questions just ask, I will answer within 1 day usually.
- The first 3 people who make one and post a picture will get a patch.