Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

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About: Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting me on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech...

The KFB2.0 controller is an interesting little board, that caught my attention for it's size and price. It's less than $20 ($18.59 to be exact on Amazon.com: http://amzn.to/2FBSghi ) and about half the size in height compared to the RAMPS 1.4 (Stacked) kit.

It does lack some serious documentation, which is mitigated by the fact that it's basically a RAMPS 1.4 all-in-one on one board. Same 8 bit arduino chip and all the same pin configurations.

It does come with a few extra's like a 5v and 12v dedicated output (RAMPS only has the 12V and you can borrow 5V from elsewhere on the board).

You can also put more juice through the KFB2.0. It can take 12-40volts. Should you choose to go with a 24 Volt power supply make sure your heated bed and hot-end heater cartridge can handle the extra 12 volts.

It comes with 4 power outputs but in all honesty I've struggled (and lost) getting the 4th under control.

If you're deciding to go with the TMC2130 (see my instructable and results on that one here) you'r in luck as the dedicated ICSP connector will prevent you from having to solder on extra pins to share with the card reader.

The other difference with the RAMPS 1.4 is the connectors. the KFB2.0 uses all JST-XHP 2.54 connectors so bring out the crimping tools (or buy proper wires).

Step 1: Parts Required

I have used the KFB2.0 board on 2 of my printers now (on you can find here) and am pleased with the way it operates.

The KFB2.0: $18.59 http://amzn.to/2Gk9qBi

Here's a list of all the items I have attached to the KFB2.0

Nema 17 1.7A (5 pack) http://amzn.to/2E3gvYc

Mk8 Extruder

full direct exturer $36.99 http://amzn.to/2E3gvYc

Extruder Frame only $8.99 http://amzn.to/2FL3hAc

V6 Hotend (12V): $18.99 http://amzn.to/2HoEXS0

For end stop control you can go with two options (I will discuss wiring for both):

The fully wired Limit switch (with cables): $7.98 http://amzn.to/2E3gvYc

The simple Micro Switch: $8.99 http://amzn.to/2E3gvYc

Stepper Cables: $8.59 http://amzn.to/2FHuALR (JSP HX2.54, which fit the KFB2.0)

12V/30Amp Power supply 19.98: http://amzn.to/2E3gvYc

Heated Bed $31.99 (optional but will describe wiring) http://amzn.to/2E3gvYc

Thermistors $8.99 http://amzn.to/2FtRvux

LCD 12864 $14.99 http://amzn.to/2HoEz60

Stepper Drivers $9.99 http://amzn.to/2FKdRYd

Fans. I'm a huge fan of the Noctua Fans. They are a bit pricier but worth the SUPER quiet:

12Volt: $13.95 http://amzn.to/2FDoyss

5Volt: $13.95: http://amzn.to/2p8JZdO


(If you want to go with the TMC2130, I recommend getting the real deal from trinamic waterott through Filastruder.com)

Step 2: Assembling the KFB2.0

Before adding the steppers, add 3 of the jumpers underneath each of the steppers. This will enable 1/16h micro stepping for the A4988 and DRV8825 drivers (not necessary for the TMC21xx drivers)

Adding the Stepper drivers does take some special care. MAKE SURE your drivers are oriented properly. The pins instructions are on the back of the board but I've add an image to show them on top. Your stepper boards should have the corresponding pin names. To keep it simple, align DIR and GND on the drivers to the board.

for the A4988 drivers this means the little pot meter is on the same side as the USB PORT

for DRV8825 and TMC2130 the pot meter points in the opposite direction

Step 3: Wiring the KFB2.0

Wiring the KFB2.0 is very similar to the RAMPS 1.4. As a matter of fact in the Software it is configured as a RAMPS 1.4 configuration. Most of the pins are connected identical to RAMPS.

One of the downsides to the KFB2.0 is that a lot of the useful information is printed on the back of the board. Take note of that before you bolt it on to something.

The first image above pretty much explains it all. Power (12-24V) goes in at the small green connector. Polarity IS IMPORTANT. Make sure positive connects to positive. The rest of the connections are discussed in the next steps.

Step 4: Connecting the Fans

-There are three FAN outputs.

The green connector with the Fan written next to is is the controllable fan that generally is referred to as the parts-fan. It is controlled variably by the software and cools the last layer of filament deposited.

There's a 5V fan output and a 12-24V fan output. It generally connects to the fan that is attached to your hot-end heat sync. This one starts running when you power up the board.

ALL FANS have a red and black wire. Polarity matters, make sure positive is connected to positive.

I'm a huge fan (no pun intended) of the Noctua fans. They are incredibly quiet. They come in both 12 volt and 5 Volt version.

If you have any plans of using auto bed leveling, I recommend using a 5 Volt fan as it will leave the 12 Volt connector for the proximity sensor used in Auto bed leveling.

Step 5: Connecting the Heaters

This boards has three outputs for heaters.

Hot Bed (Heated Bed)

Heater0 (primary extruder)

Heater1 (second extruder)

-The Hot bed and Heater0 outputs speak for themselves. They don't care about polarity but make sure you use wire of proper gauge (14-16) as these carry a lot of Amps).

-Heater1 is not as straight forward. If you have double extruders you should connect the second one to this output but; I have not been able to get it to work. I've tried tracing its pins back to the board but even after doing so I could not get it powered up.

I'll keep you posted if I ever succeed.

For each heater there would be a corresponding Thermistor that notifies the board of the actual temperature.

The thermistor for the extuder connects to TEMP0

The thermistor for the heated bed connects to TEMP-BED

Polarity does not matter for these connections.

Step 6: Connecting the End Stops (Maketbot Style)

If you are using the most commonly used end stops "Makerbot Designed Mechanical Endstop Kit", it comes with little circuit board and wiring. It will light up an LED when triggered.

There are 3 wires coming from the end stop: RED/BLACK/GREEN

IMPORTANT: make sure the wires correspond with the image above.

If you have to crimp your own connectors make sure the RED wire is on the "inside" towards the center of the board.

Reversing the wires I believe fry parts of your board.

Step 7: Connecting the End Stops (Micro Switches)

If you forego the fancy Makerbot Switch (don't do it for the price, it's generally more about the size of the sensor) and instead go with a micro switch it's my experience wiring is a bit easier. You really only need two wires.

Solder the wire to the two outside pins of the Micro switch and connect them to the GND Signal pin on the ramps.

These are the two pins towards the outside of the board (GND and SIGNAL). Since in this configuration the switch only breaks/closes the circuit, it doesn't really matter which wire goes to the Minus/Signal. DO NOT connect either of the wires to the VCC!!

Since in this configuration the connection is open you might have to flip the configuration in the Marlin software to reverse the signal.

#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

Step 8: Testing the Switch and Changing Marlin Accordingly

The following video shows me testing my Makerbot end stops but the principal remains the same

if the status flips from open to triggered when testing but starts in TRIGGERED mode when not depressed you'll need to reverse the setting in Marlin (configuration.h).

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.

Step 9: Setting Up the Software

I won't go into setting up the software in this instructable other than to say that the KFB2.0 runs Marlin 1.1.x and corresponds to the RAMPS_14_EFB.

In your configuration.h select the BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB if you use a controlled fan and heated bed

// The following define selects which electronics board you have.<br>// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
#endif

It has been brought to my attention that you can also choose the BOARD_MKS_GEN_L as an option (it adds the Pin 7 for the additional mosfet (I have not tried this yet). MKS_GEN_L in fact is 99.9% RAMPS.

#if HOTENDS > 2 || E_STEPPERS > 2<br>  #error "MKS GEN L supports up to 2 hotends / E-steppers. Comment out this line to continue."
#endif<br>#define BOARD_NAME "MKS GEN L"<br>//<br>// Heaters / Fans<br>//<br>// Power outputs EFBF or EFBE<br>#define MOSFET_D_PIN 7

<br>#include "pins_RAMPS.h"

// The following define selects which electronics board you have.
// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L #endif

Step 10: Connecting LCD

The LCD connects to the two EXP1 and EXP2 connectors on the board via the 2 flat cables that most likely came with your LCD unit. You're LCD board will have the corresponding EXP1 and EXP2 on the back.

That's really all there is to it.

NOTE: Several reviewers for the KFB2.0 have complained that the LCD connectors are on backward, requiring them to cut of the notches from their cables. I won't dismiss this, but I've used 3 boards (ordered on different occasions) and have not found this to be a problem.

Step 11: Conclusion

The KFB2.0 is nothing fancy but it packs more than a traditional RAMPS 1.4 board and comes at a very reasonable price.

I currently have two printers running the KFB2.0 and have had no issues yet (at least not with the board).

Both of these printers are fully explained here on instructables.com at

https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantil...

https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantil...

Let me know if I missed something, screwed up something or should add more for clarification.

Most product links are affiliate links so if you do need to purchase some items, please use those links. I'll make a few pennies.

If you would like to the instructables coming consider supporting me at patreon.com. Writing and testing all this doesn't just take time. I have to buy the parts as well. Thank you!!

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    39 Discussions

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    AMF93

    6 days ago

    Hey
    I just bought a KFB2.0 board to replace my Ramps 1.4 but my computer does not recognise it when i plug it. It says 'Unknown Device'. What I can I do to solve this?
    Thanks for any help!!

    3 replies
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    Core3DAMF93

    Reply 5 days ago

    The KFB is basically an arduino mega, so if it recognizes your old RAMPS on your computer but not the KFB, there might be a defect.
    If it recognizes neither, what comes to mind is that the drivers are missing. If you have not yet, you'll need to install the Arduino IDE. Best place for that is to go here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage (check out the install the arduino Desktop IDE)

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    AMF93Core3D

    Reply 5 hours ago

    Thank you @Core3D
    It was a driver issue. Now it works.

    Another issue I have is that my extruder Hot End is using a PT100 sensor. I have tried using the normal thermistor in Marlin Firmware and I also tried others but I get the wrong room temperature and the MAXTEMP Error message. So I don't know if there is an appropriate thermistor setting in the Marlin firmware for a PT100 sensor?

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    FransB10

    4 weeks ago

    Is there someone who could make a link to a configurationfile for Marlin for a beginner in printing. I want to try it but I am afraid of doining something wrong and then not be able to print for a while. I have a ANET A8M dual extruder printer.

    1 reply
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    Core3DGeorgeB40

    Reply 3 months ago

    Thx, I reached out to them to figure out the actual difference between the 2 and never heard back. Visually they also seem identical (couple of different components). I'm pretty sure anything described here still applies to the 3.0 version.

    This literally taken from the link you sent "KEB3.0 controller board is our company designed and developed according to the problems of 3Dprinter KFB2.0 controller board" Not sure what to make of that.

    So the question is whether the "improvement" over the KFB2.0 is worth $6 more.

    The very odd thing in the almost identical description on Amazon is that is say for the KFB3.0:


    • The max support only 12V, supportA4988, DRV8825 and TMC2100

    On the image I clearly see 12-24V output.

    If find out more (what's actually different from the 2.0) I'd love to hear.

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    wdavis70

    7 months ago

    Just what i needed, Thanks! Only problem i see with this board compared to the mega + Ramps 1.4 setup is the lack of servo pins. how would you control a servo actuated auto level probe? getting the power from the 5 volt fan connection is no problem, but what about the signal? the micro switch will use the signal from z Min pin so as i see it thus far this is a big limitation to this board. if i have to but a new type of probe, then i did not ave any money! any help would be greatly appriciated.

    1 reply
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    Frisbee PuppyCore3D

    Reply 4 months ago

    I am trying to install a touch 3D (Chinese BL touch) probe on my KFB 2.0 board. And wired it up according to these instructions the signal wire being attached to the A3 pin according to the markings on the board which is indicated as pin 57 in these photos and edited the pins_RAMPS.h in the marlin firmware accordingly. replacing:

    //
    // Servos
    //
    #ifdef IS_RAMPS_13
    #define SERVO0_PIN 7 // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI
    #else
    #define SERVO0_PIN 11
    #endif

    with:

    //
    // Servos
    //

    #define SERVO0_PIN 57

    enabling the BL touch on Pin 57 in the configuration.h.

    #define BLTOUCH

    #define SERVO0_PIN 57

    #if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)

    //#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed

    #endif

    the probe cycles when it receives power but I am failing to have any response running the self test gcodes. I have tried attaching a 9 gram servo and testing the functionality with M280 with no success. I have spent a couple of days drying to troubleshoot this. I'm not quite sure what I am doing wrong. would I possible be able to use a different pin and how would I determine what pin to use?

    Thank you for any assistance!

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    Core3Dmrdukejr

    Answer 4 months ago

    I use Marling firmware. In step 9, I describe where to find the firmware and what board to use for the KFB. As for the actual configuration, it will differ from setup to setup. So depending on what your printer looks like and what functions it uses, your setup will differ. For the C3Dt/c printer I've uploaded the configuration.h file in step 1 (https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/). In that file you can look at the things I had to change for that specific printer (search for c3dt in the configuration.h). It will look very different from one of my other printers running Marlin on KFB2.0

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    Core3DRevolverkiller

    Reply 4 months ago

    To have them software turned on/off? My LED strips are connected to my PSU and I use a manual switch to turn them on/off.

    If you want controlled by g-code; in The following video someone connected LEDs to RAMPS.
    D57 on RAMPS mentioned in the video is A3 on the KFB2.0 (see image attached)

    kfb2.0  servo pins.jpg
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    RevolverkillerCore3D

    Reply 4 months ago

    *edit* Ive upgraded to an RGB strip with 4 pins (5v, r, g,b) so im guessing ill need external 5v to power it and would i put the RGB wires on the pins in respect to the colors you have up there on your pic?

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    Core3DRevolverkiller

    Reply 4 months ago

    My bad, the initial video I posted used 5 Volt LEDs. For 12 Volts LEDs (which I assume yours are) It will involve a bit more as none of the signal pins get close to that. Like I said, I simply use a manual switch between my LED strips and PSU. If you want to control it with g-codes you you check out this video by Tom Sanladerer. I think he does exactly what you are looking for. The "Spare pin" he talks about in the video could still be the 57 pin, the actual power will be drawn from the PSU and the signal from ramps via mosfet will operate the on/off/dim capabilities

    https://youtu.be/fb3hrjEiE3s

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    RevolverkillerCore3D

    Reply 4 months ago

    no theyre 5 volts, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NXF8B7/ref=o...

    like 14 LEDS. im powering it by USB cable to a phone charger. I would like to take advantage of the status LEDs feature in Marlin. I just dont want to haul off and plug my 4 wires on to the board and screw it all up. but yeah theyre 5 volts ( a 5 volt black wire and red, green and blue wire.)