Wise Vise Bench




About: Just a fellow who want's to learn new tricks and skills.


This instructable introduces my "wise vise bench".

Simply, its a swivel stool mounted to vise leg. Wise part is, that it can be used as a stool, but also to support long pieces.

Note that: Stool in this instructable is mounted to wooden leg.

But originally this idea is for to be used in metal industry, intented to be mounted to strong steel bar, strong enough for users in every size.

Pipe / tube welders. etc. Alltought its usefull in homeshop too ( needs just strong leg for to mount it.)

Stool itself is strong enough for bigger users too, but you need to pay attention where to mount it.

Actual idea is very simple. Seat can be opened. Under it, is two V-grooves that can be used to support different shaped objects. Thread allows to height adjustment. Swiveling helps when supporting curved objects.

Videos shows the building process:


10mm x 40mm x 650mm flat bar. 2pcs

6mm x 80mm x 550mm plate.

3mm x 120mm x 150mm plate. ( for mounting plate )

10mm x 40mm x 60mm flat bar. 2 pcs.

450mm long, M16 trapezoid threaded rod and nut.

3mm x 150mm x 200mm plate ( stool mount / v-grooves ) 2 pcs. ( left overs are used for building mounting fixture)

10mm axle. 16mm axle.


Drill. 16 and 10mm drills. ( optionally bigger ones to make decorative holes )


Bending tool. ( used my diy press )

Step 1: Start..

I started the building process by welding M16 trapezoid nut to piece of pipe.

Nut and threaded rod is bought, costs 23€.

Pipe is 270mm long 32mm diameter and with 2mm wall thickness.

Then i made 27.5 degree bends to both ends of the 10 x 40 mm bars.

Bends are located to 60mm distance from the ends. For these bends, i used inverted 8 ton jack and simple die that's made from two 25mm bars. As a upper die i used 10mm rod.

Then i notched one end from both 10mm bars to fit 32mm pipe to it.

Step 2: Continued..

At this point i measured locations of 16mm holes. These holes are for mounting stool leg to the table leg mount.

Trough holes goes 16mm thick steel bar that holds parts together, and also works as an hinge. ( Last picture ) T-shape keeps it on its place.

I like its easier to accurately locate hole, than bend. This why i drilled these holes at this point.

I clamped bars to my mag drill with simple L- shaped plate and clamps.

Between 10mm flat bars i placed 550mm long 6mm thick plate. I grinded curves to both ends of the plate.

Step 3: Cutting More Parts..

All parts are cut with angle grinder, also most of shaping is done with it.

Finishing grooves are made with rotary tool and sanding drum.

I like to make drillings before cutting, when its possible.

8mm holes for the axles that holds the stool, and 5mm holes for the screws that mounts the seat to the stool frame.

After cutting, i did necessary bends with my diy press. Video shows the process better than i can explain.

Last picture shows parts before weldings and "decorative drillings".

To get lighter and more industrial look to my bench, i drilled some large ( 22mm an 8mm ) holes to 6mm center plate.

To 10mm flat bars i drilled 16mm holes, partly decorative purpose, but mostly that i wanted to avoid visible welds.

I like it looks better that way.

6mm plate between 10mm bars is weld trought those holes in 10mm bars. That gives 12mm long welds to each hole, 7 holes in both bars gives overall 168mm long welds. That is more than enough.

Step 4: Welding..

For welding parts together i used Telwin force 145 inverter.

And 1.6 and 2mm Ok 73.15 welding rods.

To assemble the hinge mechanism to the stool, i screwed parts to the piece of plywood and then weld parts together.

This way i could easily get parts right angled and to right location.

After tack welding, i removed the screws and weld seat frame to the threaded rod.

Step 5: Stool..

Stool is made from piece of birch, it was a left over from old kitchen table that i re-shaped couple months ago.

Cut it round with jigsaw and smoothened edge with my diy dremel powered belt sander.

Finished the surface with random orbital sander using 240, 400, 600 grit pads.

Finally layer of linseed oil. And mounted it to frame with six screws. Pre-drilled holes with 2mm drill and used 5mm screws.

Step 6: Table Floor Mount..

To ensure that my worktable doesn't move.

I made four simple brackets from 20mm x 30mm x 3 L-profile.

Also, even that i use screws at the video.

I changed screws to bolts, and now stool is bolted trought the leg with four M6 bolts. ( just to make sure that connection is strong enough )

That can be seen from the last picture. Also it shows how the hinge mechanism is made.

Supports that i made from the left overs from the seat frame, are weld underside.

This way there's flat surfaces against each other, this allows hinge to turn smoothly.

Step 7: Finished.

And here's the finished result.

Even that structure is weld strong enough together, it doesn't have many visible welds, that was one goal when i planned this.

Stool turns 270 degrees around the mounting point.

I weight 72kg, leg of my worktable is 80mm x 80mm thick, and its strong enough to hold my weight.

At my home shop i use stool when i do filing, engraving or tasks like that.

And also i use it to support long workpieces, wood, metal.. what ever i need.

I have similar one at my workplace too.

That is mostly used when welding pipes with tig. It makes possible to easily move around the pipe and weld connections with one run. Also its been very helpfull when working with long pipes.

Simple but usefull add to your workshop, home or work.

Thanks for watching!

Video tutorial:

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    22 Discussions


    1 year ago

    Nice work and a great Idea! More than two tools for one project.


    1 year ago

    "Decorative holes" superficially resemble lightening holes, but make the part weaker as well as lighter, being placed in high stress as well as low stress locations.

    7 replies

    Reply 1 year ago

    Leave them out (in???) if it concerns you, but the loss of strength is almost nil. Round holes are easier to machine and don't create stress points where cracking is prone to start. This is why aircraft wing ribs use rounded shape lightening holes too...


    Reply 1 year ago

    I consider this misinformation abusive. J.E. Gordon explains all these types of problems with wonderful clarity and entertaining stories. There's no excuse for repeating old wive's opinions on engineering.

    There's no need for engineer on this kind of builds. Remember " seat " , " vise " Its for sitting, and to give extra support for parts mounted to vise. Holes or not, it holds that 200kg what's needed. No one will mount heavier pieces than that to vise. So, "decorative " holes or not, its strong enough for its intented use. "Over engineering" is fun, but unnecessary, one could say, not so wise...

    I am not criticizing the seat; I began with gratitude that you had called the holes decorative, and hoped to clarify things to save anyone then copying them where there was less excess material. Amateur engineering is often defeated by mistaken imitation.

    With this kind of material thickness, and use. "weakening" has no matter, its still strong enough. Round hole doesn't crack very easy, square opening is much weaker than round one.

    Any engineer will tell you that yes, the shape of the hole determines how much the stress in increased locally, in addition to the general loss of material. For a round hole, that figure is 3X more where a crack would start. For a square hole, the radius of the corners matters most, but it will be higher.

    The "neutral axis" is usually the best place for holes in a plain beam, as the shear forces there need much less material if it is a long beam. A classic I beam has efficient proportions without stress risers.


    Reply 1 year ago

    As long as the holes stay away from the neutral axis lines, the strength of the part doesn't finish.


    1 year ago

    That is so impressive! Well done :)


    Tip 1 year ago on Introduction

    Great idea, but unfortunately I am over 125 KG and work with long bar stock that weigh more than I do, so I started thinking about how to take some of the stress off of the support arms...
    This is the first thing that came to mind; it is a pipe mounted conveyer roller unit, which I would mount on the floor end of a pipe extension of the main seat tube, adjust by threading up or down and drill/tap through the side of the threaded socket for a set screw or wing screw. The roller unit is available in carbon or stainless steel is rated at 250 lbs/115 KG by itself.
    The only problem I see is that the parts alignment and any irregularly in the bench leg from vertical or the floor level will show up as the wheel losing contact with the floor, however that is fairly easy to overcome. Hope this helps for any other heavyweights like me!


    1 year ago

    Great Build. looks like a comfortable work area, if i had the space in my shop I'd build one. Thanks for the idea, I'll keep it on file for future use

    1 reply

    1 year ago

    Your metalworking is so inspiring. This was a great project, and really enjoyable to see come together. Nicely done!

    1 reply

    For some reason its sometimes difficult to answer the comments. But i'll try. Even it may take some time.

    The other Finnish guy

    Tip 1 year ago on Step 3

    Note. Mounting holes at the bracket are different levels. This allows it to be bolted trough the leg.