Wooden Crochet Hook Holder

Introduction: Wooden Crochet Hook Holder

About: Hi my name is David, I have been working with wood since I was a teenager. I like to build things, also like to take things apart and fixed them. I worked in a Furniture Factory for 22 years before it shutdo...

This week I made a Wooden Crochet Hook Holder, I made this for my Niece, she loves to Crochet. After looking on the web for different designs, I decided to make one a little different. And since I have a CNC Router, this is what I came up with. I have include the video from my Youtube channel.

Note you wouldn't need a CNC for this, but it sure does make it easier.

You will need the following:

CNC Router, I used the X-Carve

CAD/Cam Program, I used Vectric Aspire

A piece of White Oak 29" x 8 1/16" x 5/8" ( Note you could use other wood, this is what I choose)

(4) 3" long Dowels 1/2" diameter.

1/4" Ballnose Bit

1/4" Endmill Bit

Table Router with a 1/4" Radius Round over bit

Orbitial Sander with 220 Grit Sandpaper

loose piece of 120 grit sandpaper

Minwax Golden Oak stain

Paint Brush

Paper Towels or clean rags

Q-Tips

Damp wash cloth

Tite-Bond type II glue

Drill with 1/8" drill bit

Clamps

Step 1: Design

I designed the project in Vectric Aspire, I set my dimensions of my stock first, which was 29" long by 8 1/16" wide and 5/8" thick. This is what I had on hand. I then design the top piece first, started out with guide lines for the holes, added the circles for the holes. I then added the border shape, added a larger hole for the Pen Holder, and a slot for the scissors. I then made a copy and flipped it over, adjusted the border design, and added a pocket for small objects and a slot for the tape measure.

Step 2: Added Toolpaths

After I designed the project, we need to add toolpaths. For the top piece, I used a 1/4" Endmill and the pocket toolpath to cutout the holes, going all the way thru the board. Note this takes longer to carve, but you will get a cleaner hole this way. Also used the same cutter to pocket the dowel holes.

I then pocketed the Bottom piece with a 1/4" Ballnose bit, 1/4" deep, and for the Tape measure slot, I went a little deeper, .4

Then I added the profile cutout using the 1/4" Endmill bit, leaving tabs to hold the piece in.

Step 3: Preview Toolpaths

After added the Toolpaths, I done the preview, too see what is was going to look like. If the preview looks good, then I would export the toolpaths to begin carving.

Step 4: Carve

Now I install the White Oak stock into my CNC Router, clamped it down. I first used a 1/4" Ballnose bit for the pockets, this is going to be the bottom piece. I then switched out bits, installed a 1/4" Down Cut Endmill, to cut out the holes and outline of the design.

Step 5: Route Edges

After taking out of the CNC, I installed a 1/4" Radius Round over bit in my Table Router, where I rounded over the top edges.

When doing this I made multiple passes, making smaller cuts helps on tear out.

Step 6: Sand

Now we need to sand the parts, I used a DA sander with 220 grit sandpaper for the Tops and Bottoms of each piece. Then I rolled up some 120 grit sandpaper and inserted it into the holes, giving each hole a few turns.

After all parts was sanded, I blew them off with a air hose.

Step 7: Stain

After sanding, I blew off the pieces and wiped off with a Tack rag, making sure to get off all dust. I then used Minwax Golden Oak stain, applying a good coat, for the holes, I used some Q-Tips to get down inside of them real good.

After letting the stain set for about 15 minutes, wipe off the excess, I also used the Q-Tips in the holes and pockets to clean them out real good.

I also stain my dowels, but I had to drill a 1/8" hole in the bottom of them, so they would stand up on my Paint Board.

Then we need to allow the stain to dry overnight, before continuing.

Step 8: Apply Clear

Next we need to apply the Clear, I used Rust-oluem Clear Gloss. Spraying a few light coats. It's best to apply the second coat after about 45 minutes, and the third if needed, allowing the same amount of time. If not, you will need to allow it to dry at least a couple of Days.

Note allow this to dry overnight before continuing.

Step 9: Assembly

Now is the time for assembly, apply a little Tite-Bond II glue in the holes for the dowels. Insert the dowels and put both parts together, then wipe off any excess glue with a wet wash cloth or rag. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

Note my holes was a little tight, and I had to use Clamps to push them together.

Step 10: Finish

Here is the finish project, I have added the Crochet hooks, Scissors, some pencils and pens. I didn't have her Tape Measure, but one of the slots is for it. I also made a pocket to hold small objects. Thanks for checking out my Instructable.

P.S. My Niece loved it!!!

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