Wooden Hand Vise

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Introduction: Wooden Hand Vise

About: Professional work in various electrical and mechanical fields, obscure sense of humour and typically willing to help... Currently under contract designing environmental monitoring equipment.

This is a 2 piece wooden device that can tightly grip small objects that are up to 3/8 inches thick.


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Step 1: Materials and Tools

You will need a small piece of 2X3 or 2X4 that is about 6 inches long.
In addition you will need a pine slat 1.5 X .25  two pieces cut about 10 inches long and another about 4 inches long.

You will need some wood glue, a drill and 7/8 inch wood bit and counter bore ( a 1 inch wood bit will also work).
Some sort of cutting and sanding implements. I used a stationary belt/drum sander from Rigid

Step 2: Prepare the Holder

The holder is made from 3 pieces of laminated pine slat.

Begin by cutting and shaping the longer pieces on the sander. This is fairly quick with an 80 grit belt. The should resemble a fork without the tines when complete. The narrow end should be no narrower than 7/8 inches.

Cut the short piece so that it is roughly the same width as the narrow end of the shaped pieces.

Glue and clamp the short piece of slat at the base of the narrow end.

Step 3: Make the Base

If you have a Counter bore than skip the 1 inch drill section.

Secure the 2X3 in a vise so that one end is facing

Use a 1 inch drill bit and drill about 1 to 1.5 inches deep.

Use a 7/8 inch bit as drill all the way through the 2X3. Keep the hole as centered as possible.

Use the counter bore to enlarge one end so that is flares to about 1 inch. (Skip this is you used a 1 inch bit.

Cut and shape the 2X3 inch a rough hand piece. You can leave the larger end flared to the 2X3 dimensions if you need a flat hilt near the work area or you can take it down to a cone shape as I did.

Leave the drilled hole a little rough as this will aid in gripping later.

Step 4: Shape the Holder

When the glue had dried, remove the clamp and begin shaping the holder on a belt sander.

Shape the base first so that is is a round dowel shape all the way to the flared portion. This should fit a little snug but not too much so into the 7/8 inch hole in the base. Sand the dowel end smooth and place slight bevel on the lower rim.

Put a slight bevel on the outer edges of the flared portion if the holder so that it creates a wedging action on the rim of the 1 inch drilled section.

Wedge the holder into the base as far as it will go and lightly sand the top part of the holder as it is gripped together.  this will create a uniform clamping section on the jaws. Lightly finish the edges of the jaws with a 45 degree bevel.

Step 5: Enjoy

The jaws are operated by pushing down on the top and released by gently tapping the dowel that extends from the bottom of the base.

The friction from the rough drilled hole is enough to clamp the work piece firmly yet the wooden jaws will usually leave no marks on the piece.

A laser etched part would be a great way to start carving...

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    14 Discussions

    0
    Wicakte
    Wicakte

    2 years ago

    The PDF associated with this Instructable returns a 0 byte file.

    0
    ironsmiter
    ironsmiter

    8 years ago on Introduction

    For those without that large counterbore laying around...

    http://trochronicles.blogspot.com/2010/04/tapered-hole-reamer-chronicles-project.html

    0
    pfred2
    pfred2

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    A tapered reamer is a countersink. A counterbore does what it's name sounds like, it bores a hole. Sometimes called a step drill. Their primary functions are to flush two different kinds of screws to surfaces.

    Just figured I'd share :)

    0
    vincent7520
    vincent7520

    8 years ago on Introduction

    I wonder how strong is the vise ???
    I wonder about the strength of the tube. Any force applied to it may well break it by splitting th wood. Wouldn't t be better to have a metal tubing ?…

    0
    tghall
    tghall

    8 years ago on Step 5

    Simple, easy to make and useful. I now have made 2, of different sizes. I find it holds small wooden pieces more firmly than my hands, with less damage than vice-grips and keeps my fingers away from sanding belts, saws and other sparp, metal tools. If you want, the outer slieve can be replaced with a piece of ABS pipe. The magic is in the center part, and while I prefer the feel of wood, if you've got suitable sized pipe, it's an alternative that is strong and nearly unbreakable. Thanks,

    0
    LMillerCarver

    Would your clamp have worked as well by using a section of PVC pipe for the round section?

    0
    Random_Canadian
    Random_Canadian

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Possibly, I have not tried this but I do know that you need a little friction between the 2 pieces for the clamping to be reliable.

    Let me know if it works.

    0
    ironsmiter
    ironsmiter

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    as well? no.

    Part of what makes it work as a vise, is the tapered engagement area.

    Now, before I get my head bit off... you CAN make it work.
    If you use a heat gun and warm up the end of the PVC.
    Then, form the end taper into the now-soft pvc pipe.
    It won't grip as well as a good tight wood to wood fit, but it SHOULD work.

    0
    mikeasaurus
    mikeasaurus

    8 years ago on Introduction

    Nice build!
    What did you use for the rubber strap, and what kinds of use did you make this for?

    0
    Random_Canadian
    Random_Canadian

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    There is no rubber strap. Just friction holds it together. The green piece is a small section of jeweler's wax for carving. I put it there as an example.

    0
    mikeasaurus
    mikeasaurus

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Ahh, I understand now. When I first saw this I thought there was an adjustable rubber belt that held the item in place, similar to an oil filter wrench/puller.

    Still great!