the original analog image to digital signal method applied mechanically to digitize to analog,this odd shutter design is not eggexactly compact in fact the camera needed to be cut extended and wrapped around it. i hope the effect of moving objects in the frame will have the affect of digital signal breakdown .inspired by the early tv inventions. please bear in mind that a few weeks have passed between me being ready to do the first test roll and writing the build.also the effects of the fumes from the fillr were not doing any favoursand all the dust has made my keyboard temperamental. . i did a photoshop mock up of the sort of thing i was expecting and the actual result from initial testing.
Step 1: This Cd Drive Mechanism Was Unused in Another Project,
Step 2: Function
this is how i think i wired it. oops just spotted a mistake! see image note.
so a disk with a slit is attached ti another panel with a horizontal slit as they cross the film is exposed, when they dont the whole thing ebbs down a bit. when it reaches the ottom a limit switch cuts the power. the shutter is a switch which reverses the polarity then the system goes in reverse.
Step 3: Put the Big Flat Squair Bit On
its got a crack in it. its aluminium.tied and glued
Step 4: Then the Round Bit
the paper clip is the basis of the cam. the cam operates a switch when the rotating slit is away from the horizontal slit, the switch advances the up down motion. the spring thing is a slip device that was attached to the motor,retrieved from a camcorder.
Step 5: The Switch
came off the board for the cd drive, i attached wires and glued it to a plate,to make positioning it easier.
Step 6: Oh Wow What a Photo
the moving parts have a gard . this gives me a surface to fix the two halves of the camera together
Step 7: Cd Drive Board Also Has a Pot
i will be using this later to adjust the rise and decent rate.. also here is the camera body im going to use.its quite jammed and it has rust inside.
Step 8: It Needs to Be Thinner.
i also save the top bit to hold the lens. i need to get the shutter bits as close to the film as possible, i do not own a milling machine so it was done by hand
Step 9: Chopped in Half
to fit it round the shutter
Step 10: Some Temporary Fixing
the waste material from the drives was just the right shape to wedge into the film back grooves.
using filler to stick the bits together.once the inside is done i removed the tempoary fix and used more filler to sculpt in the gap. didnt quite get enough clearance for the original lens so will be using the lens from the viewfinder. to make the grooves continue i wrapped a steel ruler in paper and filled upto it. the paper allows the ruler to be removed and the paper is thin tears and sometimes peels out clean.
Step 12: Is It in Focus.
working out the focal length of the lens.
invisible tape where the film goes in another camera.
lock shutter open on b.
magnifying glass used to see detail on tape ,
attach your lens to a holder ,card or whatever.
adjust lens distance to good focus
measure distance from lens mount to lens holder.
this distance i used when attaching lens to this project
Step 13: Some Metal Putt It Sort of Together
check out the up down limit switches. and the pot to adjustthe up down speed. as more work is done around the delicate parts constant testing is needed to make sure that nothing is getting in the way.
Step 14: Gunk
it seals fills and secures
Step 15: Extending the Case
a tobaco tin modified to enclose the gubbins.it all has to be as close to light tight as possible.
Step 16: As If It Came Out the Factory That Way.
Step 17: And It Keeps Going
slowly bit by bit all the holes and panels become a sort of egg shaped monstrosity.
Step 18: I Wanted to Keep an Access Panel
useful as i need to make so adjustments.it does make assembly longer.elecrcal tape or builders tape is great for making close fitting shapes with filler.
can i get the lid on without hurting anything, this is also about the time all the wires are shortened to just enough for their purpose
Step 21: Extending the Door
steel rod keeps it rigid . aluminium fills the gaps . and filler to make sure.
i had to make 2 cuts to keep the film plate in the middle.
Step 22: Blackout
i dont want light bouncing around behind the lens.
iv added the reflector from a torch to the status light, to increase its visibility, it also amused me. the addition of a fin to the bottom front allows it to stand up.
Step 24: Test Roll One Results
Step 25: Adjustments
iv adjusted the pot so it takes about 34 lines instead of 41. the least out of focus details are at 2m ,i could try bringing the lens closer into the camera, but first i will try a aperture to increase the focal depth which i made by replacing the glass of a viewfinder adapter (for longsighted?) with a piece of leather with a hole punched in it. i made the hole about a quarter the size of the lens.