Nightlight Led Laptop From USB





Introduction: Nightlight Led Laptop From USB

This instructable arises from the need to illuminate the keyboard of the laptop without having to move the display to retrieve some light when working with your computer at night and without other lights on. I have plastic that is lightweight and does not risk of crawl the homes of the laptop.

Step 1: The Materials

The material that I used can be seen in figure is two different plastic profiles referred one "L" and a "H", the 4 white LEDs (beam of 20 °, voltage 3.7 v), limiting resistors (not present in the figure), the plug USB and other things of easy availability.

Step 2: Support

To dock the lamp to computer I used L profiles that shaped and equipped whid Velcro parches in the inside have formed a kind of kalipe.
To understand the distance between the two faces I had to make some provisional tests up to get the right size.
I pasted the pieces together, after establishing the right position, with  cianoacrylic glue.

Step 3: The Circuit

I then occupied the fixture. To host the leds in the profile to "H" I ran 4 holes from 5.5 mm. Since my connecting to "H" was approximately 35 cm I calculated that the step between an led and another was to be 9 cm and two trailing spaces of 4 cm.
After doing this, I inserted the leds from the back until they are blocked when the wheel base led met the hole
As regards the electrical circuit is elementary because all LEDs are connected to the USB socket 5v through a resistor of limitation that I calculated should be 100 ohm, i.e. each led his strength and all circuits led-resistance are connected in parallel.
I dropped a drop of warm rubber above each diode to secure it, and to protect the contacts from short circuits.
Finally I asked a fuse in series to protect the circuit from a short circuit. I used a fuse from 160 milliamps because the current total should never exceed 100 milliamps for the load which is included; if this were to happen could short-circuit
and then it will be necessary for protection is active.

Step 4: The Hot Glue

After connecting among them all components, including the USB cable, (about this is useful to say, that the wires interested in 5V are red and black respectively + 5V and mass; as regards the other two wires are both connected electrically grounded to prevent the entry of radio disturbance induced by cable.) I "drowned out" the hot glue circuit several times to heat too the spinning plastic and then not to twist, leaving off the fuse with its contacts.
Of course you need to trim with a cutter glue when hardened.

Step 5:

After this phase I assembled the two pieces together. This stage requires a little attention in most because it depends on the right direction of the beam of light that must go to hit the keyboard so complete and regular.
This corner is found by assembling all in position and on seeing when you get a beam of light optimal and storing the corner. bear in mind that some fault tolerance can be accepted as a bit of adjustment you can obtain it by moving the screen support lane.
After having established the angle must be definitively set with a few drops of glue casting with precision angular cavity between the support and fitting.

Step 6: The Test

Here's how it works: it's very nice to the effect that is created and is not annoying for the screen.

Step 7: Painting

After masked with tape dedicated the area of light diffusion and the Interior support (the Velcro patches), I painted matt black acrylic color everything giving more hands intermixed to obtain a uniform coverage.Finally I ran a small hole in support to insert a band useful to block out the cable.
I forgot to mention that the fuse has been covered with rubber in order for a replacement

Step 8:

To conclude, I must say that I am satisfied with this realization, mainly for its practicality and utilities: And practice because once positioned must not be more regulated and does not move with the movements of the laptop; it is useful and I am even now while I'm writing: without it the keyboard would be dark seeds.
I think his aesthetic impact from off both be improved still somewhat when he lit it gives the best of himself. In the case that this instructable we both liked and please Vote For Me if you wish, I'll be happy! Every comment or suggestion will be welcome. Thanks for your attention, goodbye to the next...



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    12 Discussions

    it's a very nice idea,i think i will try make something like this :-)

    how about a way to actually install the LED's into the case of the laptop so that they are completely integrated into the system...?? would make keeping your laptop clean and organized rather than having a bunch of stuff attached to it.. just an idea

    2 replies

    I've been "inside" laptops, and I gotta say: there is NO spare room inside. The engineering that goes on to make room for the video and mechanical connections through the hinge are immense; embedding LEDs there is pretty much right out.

    There might be room for flush-mount LEDs at the top, but I think the easiest solution would be a permanently mounted "lip" at the top. You'd have to make sure it didn't interfere with the latch, of course, and you'd want to leave clearance for any front connectors (smart cards, microphone, whatever) that your laptop has.

    It would be a good idea actually; the fact is that it's not on my scope because of my limited technical knowledge.Thanks to the stimulus Kalibar.
    Considers, finally, that you cannot change any equipment without seeing its decay.

    Just to let you know I built the light and I'm enjoying it. I made mine a bit differently than yours. Instead of the H channel and L shaped plastic I used chloroplast. I used blue LEDs, 7 of them. I calculated my resistors for the LEDS for 10mA of current so the light would be very subdued and the bulbs will last a long time. I have attached some pictures. The first is without ambient light or flash. Picture 2 is with ambient light, a reading light fastened to the head of the bed. You can see the reflection of the reading light on the laptop screen. Picture 3 is without ambient light or flash. Last picture shows under the hood. I hot glued all the connections of the chloroplast. I did not build an H channel, I glued the piece containing the LEDs directly to the front bracket. The assembly wanted to flop forward because of course it's front heavy and also because there's a bit of a drop off -- a curvature -- on the back of the screen. I solved that problem by applying a thick bead of hot glue to the rear inside corner of the rear bracket and positioned it onto the top of the screen where I had put a piece of aluminium foil to prevent the glue from contacting the computer. After about an hour I removed the foil and had a almost perfectly conformed bracket that did not tip. Thanks again, torx for the terrific instructable.

    1 reply

    I like very much, the light is strong and has a very nice!! You think that you can publish it as a proper instructable?I think it is very interesting and practical. About the issue of supply current of leds I think you've done very well to stay low because I did experience to burn my white leds powered 20ma.
    Excellent work Sharpy.

    Well done, torx. Congratulations on what appears to me the best design I've seen yet for this problem. A very worthwhile project of which I will most certainly make good use. I like that it is removable so the laptop retains it's portability. I am truly inspired and I thank you for sharing this with everyone.

    1 reply

    Thanks, I'm glad you like it, and I'm happy to have shared with you this construction.
    Welcome to instructables and happy new year!

    This thing is certainly feasible and would be a touch of finesse that would certainly, If someone on the NET will suggest a solution for this circuit will be appreciated, because I couldn't do anything but put a trimmer resistive that place in series to the circuit, increases the resistance value of limitation thereby to the current total. Thank you Missouriman...

    This is probably the most useful thing ever. If you add a switch you could turn it on and off without having to plug and unplug it.

    1 reply

    Thanks for the praise Solderguy. About the switch I will support and it was my intention to do it, then instead, due to some difficulties in terms of feasibility from me encountered I preferred to do one thing easier. Thanks again.