Introduction: Huldaclark Zapper
Have you heard of a Huldaclark Zapper? Probably not, but all over you tube people are making claims that this zapper will improve health. Does it work? Who knows? So I decided to make one because they said on you tube that it would cure my abscessed tooth problem. You will have to google how it works and all as the explanation can be long, but the short of it is that a 15 hertz 8 volt square wave is out put onto leads that you can attach to your body. This frequency is supposed to wake up your white blood cells which will then remove all toxins and bacteria that is not supposed to be there.
Step 1: Material List
Check out the schematic.
R2- 39k tied to a 4.7k, making a total of 43.7k
C1- 10pico farad
C2- 1micro farad
L1- LED 3ml
a socket for the 555 timer
9 volt battery
wire 18 guage or so
project box ( the one i got was too small) get the size up from 2"by3" by 1.5"
I left off the alligator clips from the finish project because I decided I didn't need them. On the schematic you may see the alligator clips represented. I simply never attached the alligator clips but I left the resistors that go just before the alligator clips, just in case I ever wanted to put alligator clips on later in the future at another time down the road. the penny electrodes would be good enough for my application of holding the device to the jaw next to the aching tooth. in the schematic below, the circles on the left of the schematic represent pennies
like i may have said before, it cost about 40 bucks the way I did it as I bought extra components as I had to purchase in packages of more than I needed. here is most of the stuff I needed to make the project. here are all of the resistors (except 10 picofarad capacitor and a 39k resistor) Below is the plastic project box, the vero board, caps, resistors, battery. still need to get a switch and an ic socket for the 555. Turns out later that the box was too small, but I ended up using it anyway by putting the battery on the outside.
Here is the schematic. Be sure to notice that pin2 is jumped to pin6. I will point out in a later picture of the physical components which wire it is that I used to jump pin2 to pin6.
R2- 39k tied to a 4.7k, making a total of 43.7k
C1- 10pico farad
C2- 1micro farad
L1- LED 3ml
I used .5 Watt, 10 percent tolerance resistors, The circles on left of schematic represent copper pennies. I soldered some resistor wire remnants onto pennies. I set the solder iron up to 1000 degrees fahrenheit and set the tip on the penny for about twenty seconds until the penny was hot enough to melt the solder that was touching the penny a quarter if an inch away from the solder iron tip that was also touching the penny.
r2 is weird because in order to get the right resistance needed we had to add two resistors in series. I guess that the store doesn't sell the exact resistance we need for r2. Notice down below a picture of two resistors twisted together. This is a 39k and a 4.7 k added together. Don't let it trip you out, just wire these two resistors into series and then treat it as one resister called r2, even though it is really two resister. Notice the socket for the 555 timer. This socket allows me to take out the 555 when I am soldering the back of the board and then put the 555 in the socket when I am done with all the hot soldering. This also allows me to switch out the 555 when ever I might need to.
These are just pictures of my laying out the components onto the velo board. I just try to recreate the schematic with real parts. It can be a good exercise to figure out what holes to use and how to get these parts together. The 555 has pins that start with number one pin in the upper right corner of the chip. The upper right corner also has a depression to denote the number one pin. Pin counts counter clockwise from pin one.
I just put the components where I could and soldered the back part of the velo board. I soldered all of the leads together that needed to be soldered together. I soldered wires to the end of components on the back side of the velo board, though the soldering is shown in the next step. In these pics you can see all of the leads from the components sticking through the back of the velo board waiting for me to cut and solder.
Pay attention to the positive lead and negative lead of the LED. Also pay attention to polarity with the capacitors. Some caps are omnidirectional, some are not.
Also notice that the LED will be replaced in future pictures as the project moves along. I am using this LED to simply test the circuit on the velo board before I put it into the project box. Also the red button at the top of the circuit is an on off switch that I am using tempararily and will trade with a more heavy duty toggle switch later. The toggle switch and LED will be mounted into the project box.
at the top of this picture is a red button that closes the circuit. I used it temporarily to test the circuit before I start to fit the circuitry into the project box. Notice six resistors, two capacitors, one LED, one button switch, a 555 IC in a IC socket.
I still need to put some jumper wires into the circuit.
Step 5: Zapper
this is how i placed the components. I have the red LED in this breadboard in these pictures. Later, I take it out when I mount the LED on the box. About the kit box-- when it came down to it, the box was too small to fit a nine volt battery into and so I made it so that the battery is velcroed to the outside of the box. It could be more elegant, I know. Now I know that it all has to go in a bigger box or I need to make the circuitry smaller next time.
When i have the components soldered in place in a pretty tight grouping. I will cut the velo board to make the circuit board compact to fit into project box.
Here you can see the two resistors that make up r2. These resistors are wound together on one end of each. I solder the wire wrap later.
Step 6: Premature Testing of Output
Here, I attached the oscilliscope to the out put points to see if I have 15 Hertz. When all I could find for an out put was a steady 7 volts, had to look closer at the circuit to see where I messed up. Turns out that I had ignored 3 wires that needed to be put in.
A jumper from p2 to p6 of the 555. A hot lead to pin 4 and a ground lead to pin 5. The yellow wire crossing over the 555 is the jumper from p2 to p6. Don't forget to put this jumper in. Once I put these wires in, the circuit came out perfect at just under 15 Hertz and the LED flickers on and off. The LED seems like it is at half power because it is off half of the time.
You can see on the oscilliscope that there is a square wave and if you can enlarge the picture of the o scope, you might see that it is a frequency of 14 and a half Hertz.
Now, I will take out the LED and red button switch. To fit the circuit board into the project box.
In this pic, you can see the solder job that is not good looking at all, but it all works.
In this picture I am cutting down the size of the board so that it will fit into the project box. I have cut out the switch that I had set into the board because I need a better one, permanent one. this one was good for testing the circuit before putting it into the project box. The switch that I am cutting out requires me to hold the switch to keep the device running. So instead I will put a toggle switch into the circuit. Also at this stage, I have put the circuit together and have tested the output by using the oscilliscope. Now that I know that it works, I am going to change a couple things up to fit it into the project box. One thing I will change is the LED because I need the LED to be showing on the outside of the project box as it will be my indicator that the circuit is on and working. So I will cut out this led that I used to test it on the circuit board. I will solder some wires in so that I can attach the LED that I am gluing to the project box to the circuit. The other thing I will change is the on/off switch as I already said, also instead of having the switch in the breadboard, I will have it mounted on the outside of the project box.
Step 8: Temp Switch and LED
here are more pics of the temperary switch and LED on the velo board that I remove from circuit later as I mount the LED and switch onto project box instead.
Step 9: Holes in Project Box
Here I have drilled a hole in the top of the project box to let the wires for the battery come through. I will call the small lid part of project box the top, perhaps the "lid" would be better. This zapper will have an external battery as the box won't hold the circuitry and the battery together. So as you can see in later pics, I have mounted the battery to the lid. I suppose that the next size bigger box should be used in the future, but I don't find it important enough of a matter to go back to the store. I will use this box just fine.
Here a resistor wire end is soldered to the penny. I will not be using those resistors, I will cut them off and leave the wire attached to the penny. All I really needed was the wire. this wire I will send through a hole in the top of the project box and I will glue the penny to the box. I use tape to hold the pennies in place until the silicone "goo" is dried (about 8 hrs). After I send the wire lead that is soldered to the penny through the lid, I twist and solder the wires from the circuit board.
Step 11: LED Glued Into Box and Wires Run to Circuit From LED
Here I am gluing the LED into a hole drilled in the side of the project box. This will be my "on" indicator. I set it in place and tape it from the front and I tape the wire leads to secure the LED into place and then I put silicone goo dabbed all around it and when the glue dries the LED is secure and in place. Then I remove the scotch tape. Maybe there is a more profesional way to attach LEDs to project boxes. I will have to look that up. Silicone glue worked for me this time. I soldered wire to the LED leads and soldered that wire to the appropriate place in the circuit. I solder the negative lead from battery to pin 5 and the positive lead from battery to a switch that I will put in real soon.
You can see a red and black wire coming in through the hole in the lid. The black wire will be soldered to pin 5 and the red wire will be soldered to a switch that I have yet to drill a hole for. The switch will be a toggle switch that mounts in the lid. Pictures of the switch are to follow.
Notice that the LED is deep in goo.
The velo board and circuit fit into the project box. all of the wires fit into the project box to. These are wires going to LED, switches, batteries.
Step 12: Velcro Circuit Board to Project Box
Here is the switch. the bottom side of the switch under the lid where the hot wire from the battery is attached and the wire that goes to pin 8 and pin 4 is attached. The switch closes that circuit connecting battery to pin 8. See the battery harness waiting to recieve a battery.
Now I get creative again. A more proffesional approach might work better than using velcro to hold the circuit board in place inside the project box. I suppose that I could have screwed it into position. I used velcro and it is working for me. You might want to screw it to the project box.
Also you will see a pic of me using black tape to cover a wire splice. This is the ground from the battery connecting to a wire that is connected to pin 8. The black tape protects from any shorts happening at that point.
Had to bend the leads of the LED to let the circuit board fit in. Also bend the leads coming from the pennies. Notice that the switch is near the end to allow room for the circuit board. It was tough to fit it all in, but it all got inside.
I simply drilled a hole for the switch and set the switch in with the lock nuts that came with the switch and then soldered the wires to the switch. Bend the capacitor over to fit everything inside the project box.
Now that the silicone is dry, the LED and the pennies are sticking well.
Here the battery is set in the harness. velcro is put on the lid next to the switch and velcro is put on the battery. The velcros are connected and the velcro holds the battery to the lid.'
wires are shown going from circuit board to switch, battery, and LED.
The switch is set into the project box just next to the battery.
Here you can see the completed zapper and the switch, battery, and LED on the outside of the project box.
Screw the lid onto the project box.
I made this zapper at techshop in SF.
Step 14: Eperiment With the Device on Myself
This o scope shows the square wave 8 volt 14.5 Hertz frequency output from the penny electrodes. These pennies will be put on my skin.
Now, I will see if this device can help with the abscessed tooth. Will it work? Will it reduce swelling? Do you think it will? I will report back with the results of the experiment.