Recon Cs-6 Jamming Mod and a Few Other Mods Too

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Introduction: Recon Cs-6 Jamming Mod and a Few Other Mods Too

About: i'm passionate about inventing. some of the basic things I've made include a taser, lunchbox spot cooler, samurai sword cat scratch post, motorised straw, foot pedal toilet seat lifter. I love down hill moun...

A very simple way to solve the problem of jamming, giving the cs-6 a bit more kick and modding the cocking system.
i dont know if this will work on a recon that still has the air restrictors, but in theory it shouldnt matter.

if i've missed any tools/parts out, or haven't explained something, improvise, that's all i did.

tools/parts:
Recon cs-6
thin plastic (i used an ice cream container lid)
bottle cap
Rubberband

hot glue gun
Hammer
Screwdriver
file
hacksaw
lighter

Step 1: Fixing the Jamming

ok this is actually hard to describe, but...
the reason the gun jams is because the barrel spike squshes your dart against the slot the spike would normally slide into. to fix this problem, we're going to add an additional cover so the dart cant be pushed out of the cradle to were it can get jammed.

cut a piece of your ice cream lid to the length of the cradle which the barrel spike slides between. cut the width of the plastic long enough so that the ridge of the barrel spike can still slide between, try not to make it too tight though.
You'll need to bend the plastic so it fits nicely, i heated the plastic with a lighter to make it easier to bend.

Round the top corner edge on each piece of plastic closest to the spike.

hot glue in place.
jamming fixed.

Step 2: Internals: What You Dont Need

this section is to modify and take out crap you dont need,
the two pieces pictured are locking mechanisms, the one that is usually attached to your trigger stops you from being able to fire the blaster while the cocking slide is right back, and the other is piece is to lock the clip release button, you dont need them.

next, we're going to modify the cocking slide so that even when the blaster is primed you can still move the cocking slide back.
the button on the barrel slide just needs to be MORE slanted so it can slip, instead of being held

Release the barrel+slide from the blaster, take out the screws and spring which hold that wee button up, simply give the button more slant by using a lighter to heat the plastic and then press something flat on the hot plastic to get the desired angle, trim any excess with a knife (dont heat too much so the button becomes deformed), when thats att done, re-assemble button.

Step 3: Extra Kick

this is like a rubberband mod for a NF.
im not sure if i used a bottle cap or something smaller, you just need a lid (or something similar) the same diameter of the plunger.
take the stock, and push out the pins in the top and bottom of the clip section (use something small so the hole isnt enlarged, i used a small screwdriver). once removed pull the rods out.
grab a nice sized rubber band and insert a looped section into the hole where one of your rods went, push one of the pins back in so it passes through the loop, with that side secure, pull the remaining end of the rubberband to the opposite hole and put the pin through that one too.
if your recon has a cover over the plunger when it's primed then simply cut the cover off (when its NOT primed), you'll still need the section which screws on the end.
Then take the bottle cap lid and cut the edges so there's a cradle, hot glue the cap on the back of the plunger, this is so your rubberband won't slip off.

done, you're all ready to go, re-assemble your gun.

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    57 Discussions

    My recon will not lock into the back position when I pull the slide back. The slide moves but the orange tube in the back will not lock and stay. What should I do? I've taken it apart so many times

    3 replies

    I had that problem when doing a mod on mine. I had forgotten an orange clip thing in the upper right corner.

    late reply i know, but if you still want to know... it sounds like you're missing a spring, or that the spring you currently have isnt providing enough tension, there should be one pushing up the release clip (which also holds the air chalmber in cocked position).

    hi, this is a nice and simple way to add kick to your blaster, good idea! (my i'ble has the "power stock" on it which is much more complex way to get about the same result l0l)

    could i possibly use plumbers epoxy or normal super glue instead of hot glue?

    1 reply

    yea superglue would probably be better, as my hot glue ended up coming unstuck... tho be careful as there are some gules that will eat plastic.

    No you killed it.Did im just here for nerf come to your house and break it?

    yeah i need help.
    i put the bullets in the wrong side and the my little brother just sticks it in there by force and closes the top part completely, now i can't shoot because the top wont slide back.

    2 replies

    i had the same problem with the slide not sliding i just took the gun apart, took everything out, put everything back together and it worked fine

     can you be more descriptive when you say 'wrong side'? do you mean you put the bullet in backwards? you inserted the whole clip backwards? or something else?

    in any case id say your best option would be to dismantle the whole gun and re-assemble it 

    my frount did not come off. so I touk it apaet. can you help me.

    1 reply

     yes, please use the spell checker when describing your problem and try to be as descriptive as possible.

    nice i think that putting a stock and adding a spring will make it more powerfull than a rubber band. just saying

    3 replies

     agreed, for those more serious about getting the most out of their blaster, stock spring would definitely be the best option. This is for those who are lookin for more  of an easy boost, cos if you're gonna install a stock spring id advise significant internal reinforcement to increase durability.

    i did not have to my catch did not even show weir or teir at all and here is my beast but i know why people might keep the rubberband so it is more like a handgun/sawed off im not saying ur mod sucks it doesnt its just mine gets 40-60 ft with sertin darts and it is accurate i mean accurate over 40-56 ft but at 60 it is accurate but not nail on the head accurate more like nail on the edge accurate. 

     i've previously blown the back of a plunger tube off when i've made a  stock spring and its quite common unless you reinforce.
    i've brassed one of my cs-6's and am well aware of the incredible capabilities of the blaster, 40-60ft is a decent effort, congrats :D .  This instructable is for the demographic of those who want a less serious boost.
    Nice blasters btw.