Do you want a simple $3 solution to make a 20-30 kv power supply for your electronics? Well here you go:

I modified the photos from powerlabs.org so that it would work with a modern dc flyback transformer thats found in most modern tvs.

I am not responsible for any damages or harm that result from following these instructions.

BY ALEX MCCOWN

Step 1: Prepair the Parts You Need

You will need:

Soldering iron (15/30 watt)
Duct tape
Thick(ish) wire
(20~24) Gauge magnet wire (or copper radioshack wire)
NPN 2N3055-type Transistor (radio shack part # 276-2041)
27 ohm 1 watt resistor (5watt if use with 300amp battery)
240 ohm 1 watt resistor (5watt if use with 300amp battery)
Heatsink for transistor (the bigger the longer the use)
Switch
Box to put it in
12-24 volt power supply (i have tested it on a 12v 1amp wall transformer and it works fine and a 300a lawn and garden battery)

Q and A

Were can I find that type of flyback transformer?

Well, in a dumpster if you can find an old CCD TV or monitor (the types that aren't thin) crack one open (don't actually crack it open use a screw driver please :-) ) and pull it out

Were can I find 20-24 gauge mag wire?

I took mine out on an old amplified fm antenna but other sources are good and it doesn't have to be mag wire; it can be soled copper wire too.

Were can I find a switch?

In one the things you took apart to get the flyback or the mag wire if you still cant find one try radioshack

Were can I find the power supply?

In your basement car closet junk pile you name it (please put a volt meter on it to test voltages)
also you can use a 300 amp lawn and garden battery from lowes or were ever.

Were can I find you?

Email johndear101@gmail.com. I will be more than happy to answer your questions

Step 2: Winding the Flyback

Grab your flyback and some of that mag wire and pliers and have a seat

Bend the tip of the wire a little bit and wrap the wire around the ferrite core (see the pics for help) 5 times for the feedback and 15-20 times for the primary and burn the tips with a torch or a lighter to burn off some of the insulation on the wire so your wires can get a good connection also dab some salder on the wire if the salder sticks you have a connection (see the pics)

if you want to use higher amps use thicker copper wire you only need 5 turn primary and 10 turn secondary

Step 3: Puting It All Togeather

Follow the schematic EXACTLY. I did find that polarity matters on the flyback' s feedback windings. if it still dont work revere the feedback winding connection

Step 4: Hv Lines

Finding the HV+ is easy; it's the thick red wire on top.

well strip your hv+ line, then power op your driver then touch each of the pins until you get the biggest arc (below is a pic of where mine was) DON'T GET SHOCKED! THIS COULD KILL YOU AND REMEMBER TO DISCHARGE YOUR FLYBACK AFTER EVERY USE BY CONNECTING THE HV+ WITH THE HV-

Now solder on a wire to the HV-.

Congratulations! You're done with the hardest step!

if you don't get any arc try reverseing your feedback lines or swapping your resistors with 3-5 watt during this my 1 watt resistors fried with my 300A supply

Step 5: The Case

I really don't care what case you use for the flyback. Just no metal cases, please. I used an old wooden box I had. Make sure that your case has holes near the heat sink.

Radio Shack part # 270-1809 works fine.

(Also if you add a POT to the input voltage you can adjust the output)

the output seen in the photo is 1.5" and running off a 12v 300A (lawn and garden battery)