Snapped Exhaust Repair





Introduction: Snapped Exhaust Repair

snapped exhaust repair with hose clips and exhaust putty

Step 1: Prepare Tools

I got my inspiration from this instrucable:

You will need to prepare your tools, ppe and working environment.

gloves, glasses and dirty clothes

tin snips
(optional) screwgun
scissor jack
inspection lamp

tin can
exhaust repair putty
hose clips
paving blocks

Step 2: Raising the Vehicle

Check your planned area of work is flat and level, block off the front wheels to stop the car moving when lifting, make sure the handbreak is fully engaged.

Using the weight appropriate jack lift one side slowly and carefully build the the blocks to the axl, drop the jack slowly.
beware the vehicle could tip and YOU SHOULD NOT WORK UNDER THE VEHICLE ON THE JACK ALOWN and repeat on the opposite side.

be careful as the vehicle weight shifted and dropped whilst lifting.

Step 3: Locate the Snapped Exhaust

locate the break and plan your approach as the snapped exhaust has left me with a slight lip on the silencer.

I decided to apply it externally, it can be done internally too please check the previous link to see how.

Step 4: Prepare the Tin Can and Paste

I cut off both sides of the tin and removed the label, using the tin snips I flanges both ends.
I opened the flange on one side.
I cleaned the exhaust of rust and dirt and prepared the putty.

Step 5: Dry Fit and Check

I found it quite hard to fit the tin on to the exhaust, I cut the tin down one side, wrapped it and attached the clips it fitted snuggly, happy with its shape I removed it to apply the putty.

Step 6: Putty and Tin Can Assembly

I re-read the putty instructions.
realigned the snapped area, started to apply the putty and work it in to the cracks, I found it easiest with fingers and thumb.
I applied the putty into the tin, trying to cover all parts.
wrapping the tin around the joint and postioned the hose clips, I used a screwgun to speed up the process and finished the a screwdriver.
sorry there isn't any pictures as I held the pressure on the tin.

once I was happy with the clips I reapplied the putty acrossed the flanges and the side of the tin can.

Step 7: Test Your Work

I checked the flow from the exhaust, and it seemed to be working fine, I ran my hand around the joint and couldn't feel any gases escaping, I took the opportunity to check the rest of the exhaust.

I left it running for a while whilst I tidied up as the the heat should help the putty set.

Step 8: Repeat Step 2 in Reverse

reverse step 2 being careful whilst using the jacks.

Step 9: Cleaning Up

the putty should set overnight

Remember to wash and take care of your skin. oil and chemicals can cause severe reactions.

hopefully this guide has helped you,
thank you for reading my first instrucable.
constructive criticism is welcome

Step 10:



    • Oil Contest

      Oil Contest
    • Water Contest

      Water Contest
    • Creative Misuse Contest

      Creative Misuse Contest

    14 Discussions

    step one: clean up area
    step two: do a decent welding job

    I'm not sure how long this repair will last, but I'm sure it will get you home. Good job!
    If you have access to a mig welder, I would clean all that off then use a grinder to prep the area for welding.
    A few zaps with the gun and your good to go.

    1 reply

    I've got no access to a welder, I'm hoping it'll last till I can find a replacement at a scrap Yard. fingers crossed it lasts that long

    Ha! This JUST happened to me a few days ago! I did'nt know about this stuff. It'll save me many dollars! Thank you!

    My muffler snapped like this after hitting a big truck tire tread strip on the highway. I didn't have enough time for putty to cure since I was far from home, but I was able to get a piece of exhaust tube which fit tightly and clamped it.

    1 reply

    well I thought the same but this putty hardens on heat, and they advise you to warm the engine. so I think it could be more to stop movement on the joint or dust/dirt. if you were to protect and support it I don't see why you could drive carefully before it had cured.

    thank you for the inspiration and the idea, it could of been a lot neater but Its not on show. haha


    3 years ago

    Yes I did this last night, I use the van for work so need it working quickly.

    1 reply

    Ha I do still have that car. It's over by 1st east and 4th north. Take a look sometime, it's the yellow one. :)

    Good fix. Using bricks or cinder blocks (or the beer cooler) to support a car is extremely dangerous. They crack. Jack stands are really the only way to go.

    1 reply

    They were paving blocks which do have a higher tensile strength then normal bricks but I do agree but I wanted to make it clear that you shouldn't be working under any car on the scissor jack alone.

    Ha so awesome! I remember fixing my car ('69 VW Bug) into all hours of the night when I was younger. So many great memories! Thanks for sharing you quick and easy fix!