Windsheild/pot Stand for Can Stove




Introduction: Windsheild/pot Stand for Can Stove

About: Dad of two and habitual shed dweller

after making atmans can stove (, i decided it needed a home so i made this windshield/pot stand.

I made up it as i went along so forgive me for not having any accurate measurements (if any!).

Step 1: Ingredients

you will need;

10 thou shim steel (a thin steel plate i had two 10"x5" pieces)

nuts and bolts to fix the steel in a ring.

4mm square key steel (or any thin steel bar, the length will depend on the diameter of your windshield, as shown later on)

1mm thick heat resistant mesh (i tested mine by holding a lighter to it for a while and then attacking it with some pliers!)

drill plus 4mm and 7mm drill bits
tin snips or good scissors
needle nose pliers
small flat file (2nd cut preferable)
clamp or strong hands!
pencil or thin marker pen and ruler

Step 2: Cut Shim to Size

if you are making this to fit into a container then cut the sim to the hight and length required. try to make them as square as possible.(ruler and pencil comes in handy here)

file the corners of to remove any sharp edges

i only used two pieces because they were to hand one piece would probably be better.

Step 3: Drill the Shim Ends

drill three holes in each the end of the shim so that it can be fastened together into a ring.

Step 4: Joining the Two Shim Plates


join two ends making sure that the nuts are on the outside of the ring when it is fixed together later.

Step 5: Drill the Air Holes

obviously the stove will need an air supply, along the top using the 4mm drill drill several small holes, and along the bottom using the 7mm drill make twice as many holes than on the top.

this helps feed the flame without it burning too fiercly.

Step 6: Join the Ring Together

once the air holes are sorted join the ring together with your remaing bolts. if its a little un-level then use the file to straigten it up.

next you need to saw off the extra thread on the bolts and file off the burr.

Step 7: The Grill/pot Stand

lay the key steel over the top of the ring so that it is split into three sections, and mark it 5mm over each side

cut the key steel to the marked length, lay it over the ring again and mark where the groves need to be cut for the key steel to sit flush in the top as in the third picture.

using the tin snips or scissors cut the vertical lines and the using the needle nose pliers tease the steel backwards and forwards until it snaps off, file off any sharp edges.

once its all cut to size repeat for the second bar.

Step 8: Grill Mesh

next wrap the mesh around the steel bars and crimp it with the pliers. i used the scissors to trim it to size.

i left the 5mm over cut as it helps to fit the bars in and provides stability for the pot.

Step 9: Finished Product!!

thats it! i know its not cutting edge engineering but it works, i'll be using it this weekend on a hammock camp, i'll update after that.

hope this is ok for a first time instructable.

update - it worked a treat, cup of tea and naan bread for breaksfast in sherwood forest! it was quite windy but the stove was fine.

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    4 Discussions


    12 years ago on Step 9

    If the mesh is galvanized, it will contain toxic chemicals. Toxic fumes when heated.


    Reply 12 years ago on Step 9

    wow, ok. glad you told me before i tried it! i'll check it out, think i have got some bronze mesh somewhere.....


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    ya ..
    and fortunately we don't now live as the ancients did, where what we know as 'old bronze' was a mixture of copper and arsenic! This was changed to be copper and tin later, with an obvious advantage!

    "Initially bronze was made out of copper and arsenic to form arsenic bronze. It was only later that tin was used, becoming the sole type of bronze in the late 3rd millennium BC. Tin bronze was superior over arsenic bronze in that the alloying process itself could more easily be controlled (as tin was available as a metal) and the alloy was stronger and easier to cast. Also, unlike arsenic, tin is not toxic."