Facebook has went way downhill

I made a facebook account and added no information or friends to it. Every single person that facebook suggests that I may  know is a female. Out of around 60 people. Explain that algorithm. Most are young attractive females. The advertising was getting way bad too when I had it before. And I was getting posts from friends of friends of friends. No thank you. You done messed up facebook.

Topic by avocadostains   |  last reply


muddywaters asked a question seeking cheap, possibly DIY, home building. There are lots of great answers to that post; some of the most interesting mentioning prefab and shipping container structures. I recently had reason to read Phoenix, AZ's main newspaper, which had an article entitled “Rehabbing PreFab”, discussing a local project at Taliesin West architecture school. Students are exploring the PreFabricated homes, with Modern architecture styling. Definitely a new take on PreFab. Exciting work, particularly the shipping container mod-mods. Doing a quick search turns up the website busyboo which has many articles regarding contemporary exploration of highly artistic PreFab units. The price of these designs is quite different from traditional prefab homes, partly a reflection of the limited market and partly the cache styling. What do y'all think?  Borrowing design ideas from these MODpreFAB companies, perhaps a DIY opportunity! $$$ Only fools buy retail $$ wholesale $ Those who can, DIY! The Arizona Republic article mentions the following companies experimenting with MODpreFAB: (Reproduced from print edition) ASUL: Phoenix AZ company that sells kits for onsite assembly (~$100/sq ft.) asul.us Hive Modular: Minneapolis, MN company rpoducing affordable modern homes. hivemodular.com Kithaus: California company offering small, connectable components ($25,000+ / 100 sq ft) kithaus.com LivingHomes: California developer (~$230 / sq ft) livinghomes.net Marmol Radziner: Los Angeles, CA company builds in factory with most appliances installed, then breaks apart sections for shipping (~$200 - $300 / sq ft) marmolradzinerprefab.com Method Homes: Seattle, WA company offering energy efficient prefabs (~$160+ / sq ft) methodhomes.net mkDesigns: Based on Instructables member! Michelle Kaufman design ($360,000) mkd-arc.com Mod Box: Phoenix, AZ project designed 10 ft sq cube space (~$35 - $60k / cube) v100modbox.com Modern Cabana: San Francisco, CA company building small, green component rooms (~$20,000 / unit + shipping and handling...) moderncabana.com Modern Shed: Seattle, WA company selling rectangular spaces ($11.2 – 81k) modern-shed.com Mod.Fab: Scottsdale, AZ project exploring a cool, transportable home (~$120k / 432 sq ft) taliesin.edu/pages/MODFAB.htm Rocio Romero: Missouri based designer of kit homes, some assembly required ($24,950 / 625 sq ft) rocioromero.com Upcycle Living: Phoenix, AZ company repurposing shipping containers into ModFab components ($100+ / sq ft) upcycleliving.com weeHouse: Minneapolis, MN company creating factory made, small homes (~$79k / 435 sq ft) weehouse.com

Topic by CrLz   |  last reply

Convert AAA battery power to 12V jack?

So I figured out a really good option for my external rumble pack I want to make, I see these Wii lightguns use X2 AAA batteries and have a micro switch that engages the internal rumble motor on the handle of the gun. The batteries are connected to a microswitch and the switch is pressed after the trigger is physically pulled. How can I convert the AAA batteries power method into an external 12V power connector for continuous use and stronger motor vibrations etc? Like I said this is my first DIY thing. I want the AAA battery method to be converted to a stronger more capable 12V. I plan on buying some strong force feedback motors that need 12V. Eventually adding a small Solenoid too.

Topic by JonathanH248   |  last reply

Need help on first DIY project Idea

Hello, I would like your help on an idea I have to make an external recoil pack so VR players with existing gun controllers can add recoil force to existing controllers that do not feature it. Recoil and haptic force feedback controllers are $500-3000 in cost. Can you help me out. I have not attempted this sort of DIY thing before. I just need some tips and what I need to buy in order to get his done. thank you. I have all the time in world and would love to know what parts I will need. So far I have found some good candidates. I should add that I want this pack to be powered by a wall adapter and cable. 12V I am thinking. Recoil and hard hitting rumble will need juice. I can find a way to affix the device. I just need to know what parts I need, and how to wire it all up. I know I need a switch that can be physically connected in way that a trigger pull will engage the motors. I know I need help. Please any help would be appreciated. I also would like to use "solenoids" or "Actuators" I just need to know from more experienced builders what would be better for an external universal type "pack". The idea is that the pack can add great force feedback to any gun with a physical trigger pull, or something of the nature http://nfpshop.com/product/12v-powerful-vibrating-motor-strong-vibration-motor-nfp-f280v/ http://www.nfpmotor.com/products-powerful-vibration-motors.html http://www.nfpmotor.com/Vibrating-vibrator-vibration-motors.html

Topic by JonathanH248   |  last reply

Awful back-of-the-magazine tat

Somehow, I stumbled across this bloody-terrible piece of cack on the internet: Flying Scotsman-Memories of Steam Cuckoo Clock And remembering the: Elvis Presley Dambusters Clock Plate of Tutankhamun I could not honestly tell which was real, and which was a "piss-take". There are more... what did you see in the back of that thing you looked at printed on cheap-paper?

Topic by lemonie   |  last reply

Wi-fi enabled window shutters

I want to automate (4)  sets of window shutters (called Plantation shutters.). I have the mechanical parts worked out which I plan to power with a servo motor on each.  Can someone help me work this out? I am somewhat handicapped now and have difficulty getting around from room to room.  There are a total of (22) actual shutters, but I will have the shutters on each window linked together with a rod powered by a positioning servo...four windows...four servos.  The operation can be simultaneous.  I do not need to operate them separately. Thank you for any help you can give.

Topic by hrp1937 

How make round 5" air duct valves?

We moved into a large (for us) house, and we only use a few rooms. I managed to repair the furnace, but the first bill was astronomical. Beyond the leaking windows and lack of insulation, the problem is that, as it is, we have to heat the whole house. I've discovered a temporary method of blocking vent tubes to unused rooms (by stuffing the tube with a rag), but I want real valves. I've heard they are called air duct dampers.  My vents are on the ceiling aimed down.   So, I've seen these check-valve 5" ones https://goo.gl/8zRGLX but I haven't found any that would open and close manually.  But this doesn't seem like it would be difficult to make. I'm toying with the idea of using a cone-shaped "lid" with some kind of springy cord holding it in. Does anybody have any ideas?  How do I make a manual (or electrical solenoid, I suppose) operated valve for a 5-inch round air duct?

Topic by nehmo   |  last reply

Musical Parrot Toy

Serious request... my Parrot (African Grey) loves music. I would like to buy/build 'Parrot-proof' musical 'instrument/s' device/s that he can play, perhaps triggered by either percussive impulses from his beak and/or his vocal range. This would help him remain stimulated when I am out. All genuine replies welcome... :) The closest thing available is this, but it isn't very versatile (only pre set sounds) + not very musical  http://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets/bird-toys/jm-bird-babble-ball?pageSize=45&orderBy=1#

Topic by ParrotFX   |  last reply

I keep feeling like I'm out of place in group calls

Whenever I get into a group call on Discord or something, I just get the nagging feeling that I don't belong in some way. Like, I may feel that people aren't acknowledging my presence, or that they don't really care to talk towards me. Am I the only one who keeps feeling something like this, in these situations? And, what can I do about it?

Topic by Dashing Rainbow Dash   |  last reply

judging(how much TIME JUDGING takes)

Does any one know how much time judging takes when voting is finished 

Topic by hadi141   |  last reply

Instructables needs a Fitness category

I was browsing and thought that we really need a fitness category or contest because instructables is really about making stuff and and a huge part of fitness is making stuff to maintain health.

Topic by jcsuperman   |  last reply

UV filtration in your fish tank or small fish pond

Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank  but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

Getting the Arduino to Convert analog signal from guitar into correct frequency

Hello Everyone, I was wondering if anyone can help me with a simple solution to my problem, I was to be able to get the sounds from my guitar into my ardunio and have the correct frequency be stored. I can get the guitar connected to the arduino and numbers come out of the serial monitor but they don't make sense, i need to have the correct frequency come up for each note i play, I have looked at a few solutions but being a beginner to this some go over my head or they just didn't work. Can anyone help me or point me in the right direction to be able to do this? Thanks  P

Topic by paddykoolster   |  last reply

favorite bands of all time

What is your favorite band? what type of music is it and whats your favorite song of theirs?

Topic by michael J. caboose   |  last reply

what would be a good material to make poker chips?

Hello everyone, as part of my new poker table project i decided to make also the chips.  what materials would you reccomend me to work with, knowing that i dont have a workshop. (i was thinking about concrete). would really like to hear your thoughts and opinions best regards. yarin

Topic by yarin shabatov   |  last reply

LED Dream BAll how can I fix this? Or rig it differently?

I have (3) of these LED DREAM Ball lights that come with a remote to change colors all three of stopped working, Im thinking its the base that gives out- but what other light source could I put inside of it to make it work again?

Topic by franklydoreen   |  last reply

comment construire un billard soi même pas à pas

Bonjour à vous!  Je voudrais fabriquer un billard ou un snooker fait maison, mais je ne sais pas comment faire. Pouvez vous s'il vous plait m'expliquer la procédure de construction pas à pas?

Topic by Lemythique 

Ya'll! I finally am in my new house and have my knex back!

Hey guys! I can finally get back modding nerf guns and making knex guns! If you have any suggestions for nerf mods or knex guns Please put them down in the comments. Also, it was my birthday on October 12th! And another thing. Sorry if my knex creations for a while are bad block triggers or something, I haven't had practice with knex in heck, 4-5 months?

Topic by tinyhooman 

We are LIVE!!! - Knex Flux - General purpose Knex forum

Knex Flux is live now, you can visit it here: http://knexflux.net So, I randomly had that idea and Sandro likes it too and stuff, so yeah, is there any demand for a general-purpose knex forum uniting all the parts of the knex community under one hood? Of course such a forum would need people who actually use it, thus me asking if it would be used ^.^ I could do the hosting, I know my way around such stuff :) This would be in particular good for sharing progress, which isn't really possible on instructables, sharing small projects you don't think are worth a whole new instructable, helping others out and of course all just having a fun time together!

Topic by Sorunome   |  last reply


Im selling my knex. i dont want it £30-£50'd be nice :) only people in the midlands in england please it weighs about 9kg lemme know. slow to respond as i'll be on holiday tomorrow.

Topic by j-chode!   |  last reply

Preparedness:: Survival:: Game for Kids/adults

The Girls Scouts are hosting an Earth Day event that is about preparedness and the skills needed to be a survivor.  I'm trying to create stations or booths with different skills for students and adults to try or learn.  For example, one station will be learning knots.  Another station will have simple materials for participants to make a makeshift shelter. I need ideas that are fairly simple to teach or show at that stations that can be done in less than 10 minutes. I'm also interested in a game. Thank you.

Topic by tillytoo9   |  last reply

Teaching Middle School Through Instructables

I am a junior high math and shop/technology teacher. For years I have been wanting to develop a math program that uses as much hands on as possible.  Like all teachers, I have developed a few projects, but just don't have the time to develop all the activities needed to cover an entire curriculum. I would love to correspond/collaborate with others (including non teachers). Email me directly if you are interested.  mikemckay@pwsd76.ab.ca

Topic by mikemckay   |  last reply

Looking for a K'NEX Reunion

I'm looking to find and contact all of the old K'NEXers so we can keep in touch. I still know how to reach a few people, but this post is my final attempt at locating the following people. Search status is in brackets by each name. [Pending] = I've contacted them. [Found] = established semi-permanent communications. No brackets = no trace.  -Hunter999 (one of my best friends on 'Ibles back when) [pending] -The Red Book of Westmarch [pending] -E Pluribus Unum  -Didexo [pending] -TheDunkis [found- hooray!] -Sorunome [pending] Bonus points!: -Oodalumps -KillerK [pending] -Shadowman -dsman -I Am Canadian -The Jamalam -KGB I remember you guys. You were the best. I hope I can talk to most of you again, and I hope you remember me. -NK

Topic by nerfrocketeer   |  last reply

DIY Challenge Portable Filtered Ventilation System

Hello inventors and creative minds. I'm an airbrush enthusiast and I'm looking for an inexpensive way to build a portable ventilation system. I'm curious if anyone has built something that would work by using cheap home filters. Please send any ideas and suggestions

Topic by lancruz   |  last reply

(Closed) The Unofficial Instructables 2017 K'NEX Gun Contest!

Greetings, Instructables K'NEX Community! Now it's time for the Unofficial Instructables 2017 K'NEX Gun Contest! I am hosting this contest to hopefully stir up some creativity in the Instructables K'nex Community. There will be five winners, each of which will receive a place in my "Top Five New K'NEX Guns of 2017" collection. I will also post pictures of the winners' guns on this forum topic when the contest is over, and the winners will each receive a custom image "trophy" to put on their profile page if they wish. I will try to build as many of the entered guns as I can, and I will judge them by range, efficiency, accuracy, and innovation. If you wish to enter in this contest, here are the rules: 1. The K'NEX gun that you wish to enter in the contest has to have been posted to Instructables.com from Jan. 1, 2017 and up. No older entries will be accepted. Also, it must be working. Test your gun out several times before posting it. 2. Your entry must be a fully documented Instructable, with pictures and full instructions, as well as information about the gun. A video would be preferred, but is not necessary. Multiple entries are allowed, but please take your time building your gun. 3. The contest is active from January 16th, 2017 - July 4th, 2017 (Updated). No entries will be accepted unless they meet these deadlines. 4. To enter, you must build a K'NEX gun in 2017 and post it to Instructables.com according to the guidelines listed above. Then, you must provide a link to your instructable in the comments below. All entries will be posted above once accepted. Now that the guidelines are clear, get out your K'NEX, awaken your imagination, and start building! I am looking forward to seeing, building, and testing the entries. Hopefully this contest will stir up some creativity in the Instructables K'NEX Community. If anyone has any questions or concerns regarding this contest, please PM me, or let me know in the comments below. (Partial credit for pictures goes to CorgiCritter, MechMind7, Seleziona, and dr.richtofen) ENTRIES: "Knex Beretta M9 Pistol" by dynamite_kid "Knex MP5K" by dynamite_kid "ZipDart V.2 -- Repeater Slingshot" by Dreamwave

Topic by The Knex Inventor   |  last reply

How to make a 5 channel Vu meter (equalizer)

Hey guys, I'm planning on building a sound equalizer display aka Vu Meter, with 10 segment LED. My idea is to make a central sound system with analog I/O for 5.1, with three stereo amps DIY kits, each one for Front (LR), Back (LR) and Sub/Central. I've been using a 2.1 Logitech since my Samsung 5.1 home theater died, and its not enough.  At first, I though about buying a new 5.1 system, but my budget is not enough right now, and as I always loved to build myself, I though, why not? In resume, its a central with volume control, LED to indicate volume output, and 5 rows of 10-segment LED for graphic equalizer. I'll attach an image with the sketch of the frontal look. Its not final, but it may be enough. Now the problem: My knowledge about this sound frequency area is pretty poor. I can't figure out how to make each LED Segment for an specific hertz. I'd like to divide it into 60Hz, 230Hz, 910Hz, 3kHz and 14kHz. For material, I'm planning on using laser cutted MDF for the box and glass for the front panel, to give it a "pro" look. I may change it for acrylic in the end.  The tools I own right now are:  1x Arduino Uno R3, which I intend to use it for the prototype and tests. 1x Arduino Mini, I'd rather use this one instead of an non-writtable CI for final project, as I may want to change codes and add stuff to it later. 5x 10-Segment LED Bar 5x Lm3914 I'd like to get to know how to divide and convert the frequencies of the sound into graphic, tips about the code for arduino and material list and mounting guide for each segment... Thanks a lot, I'm sorry for the long text, but I could not figure out how to explain it in other way. And again, thanks!

Topic by deadlyredink 

Sound proofing shelf frontage help

I was wondering if any of you had any advice for the front of a whole wall shelving unit I am planning on building (and the shelves as well if you have any suggestions). You see, although there is a cavity wall between this room and the next, I am wary of a noise complaint as it is a different flat’s bedroom. I will be using it as a music production room and ideally want decent acoustics as well as adding an extra these extra layers to stop leakage. (I’ll draw some pictures and upload them to clarify what I’m saying)* Two things I’ve been thinking about using: 1.  A high-density curtain hanging in front of the whole unit. While this could possibly deal with the main issue of a noise complaint better than the next idea, I’m worried it will create a bad mixing environment with a really ‘dead’ wall behind my speakers. 2. Hanging, sliding acoustic panels using egg box foam under a sheet of fabric. This will look like a normal acoustic panel with the fabric pinned around a timber frame. I was thinking of forgoing using any sheet wood so I could hang a piece of high-density carpet/ fabric at the back and not have the panel too heavy. The wall measures about 3.2m W x 2.3m H so I was thinking of using three, maybe four hanging panels. It’s my understanding that a hanging panel would absorb more energy from the sound waves than one on wheels or in a sliding track. To hang the panels the main idea I had was to use metal tubing (uncertain as to what material to use, conduit?). With the three panels, I would use two main lengths of it one on the same height, parallel to the other, with the distance between needed to stop the panels on either track hitting each other. From above or below it would look a bit like this U=====U (sorry if this doesn’t translate to your device well… See pictures) with the ends of the U going into holes drilled into the wood, extending as far as the shelves will be deep if needed. With four I would just have two sets of the same but smaller. Sorry if this doesn’t make much sense, rushed off me feet at the moment. Many thanks Jay *Sorry the pictures ended up pretty awful, just moving in, need a proper table…

Topic by JWL94 

Generatore to Home hookup

(Tried commenting on the "Easy Generator ...." article. Error?? Perhaps this can be re-directed? See no Electrical forum) ​Pulling my hairs out (and very few left ) Contrary information on wire size for 50 amps. I'd like to use some leftiver #8 cable for the run from Mains to outside outlet, for a generator. Here it states #8; 1)  I had already resigned to needing #6, because I've seen that more often than #8 in my exhaustive reading. I can't speak to the codes/locations question. 2) just because the generator outlet is 4- wires, 50 amps, 120/ 240V. Does the connecting cable, and plugs+outlets, ALL need to have the separate Ground and Neutral? There are so many 4 - 3 wire conversion examples out there- text and video/pictures. For RVs, welders, etc.

Topic by mrlewp87   |  last reply

LM386-amp power problem

I have built an LM386-amp from the schematic in Nicholas Collins "Handmade electronic music". It works fine with a 9v-battery but when I use a Roland guitar pedal power supply (several outputs) my chip is ruined. Does someone know how I can get this to work with a DC-adapter?

Topic by daaaaavid   |  last reply

Purchased crate of KNEX

I recently purchased a large crate of Knex from a donation center with no instructions.  Is there an easy way to tell what kits I may have?   I have sorted all the pieces and I noticed some of the same color rods are shorter than others.  Are these counterfeit pieces or is there a reason for shorter pieces?  I can't wait to build my first ball machine. Thanks, Chris 

Topic by cmu3rd   |  last reply

12 Hurricane Preparedness Projects

I read some of the 12 projects. I did one myself since I live in Puerto Rico, went through Hurricane Irma this past Wednesday (Sept 6th) ,have been though several hurricane sin the past (since 1964), and will go through a new one (Hurricane Jose) this weekend. In most occasions, we lost power and water for days. I lost only power for 30 hours after Hurricane Irma. My own project was a two part installation for when I lacked water (I have a generator set for power): 1. Install a 50 gallon cistern on my roof to store potable water for cleaning and bathing needs 2. Install a pressurized 20 gallon tank for showering The 50 gallon cistern was actually a large trash barrel with a removable cover ($40), which I added two 1/2 inch plastic faucet valves, one near the base as a gravity fed output, and one on the cover as a water inlet. After cleaning the barrel, and attaching the valves, I fixed the barrel (now a "cistern") on my roof (over a beam for weight distribution) with two wire guides. I attached a plain water hose from an external faucet to the top valve to fill the cistern. Then I attached a new hose to the bottom valve and ended that with a regular sprayer. I fitted this into the bathroom over the toilet tank and near the sink, so it can be used for face and hand washing, and for filling the toilet tank after each flush. The pressurized water tank is a unused water heater that can hold up to 120 PSI. I replaced the cold water inlet with a cap and a auto tire valve by drilling into the cap and pulling the tire vale through (same as for a wheel hub).. I installed a 1/2 inch faucet on the hot water outlet and a short (pressure resistant) water hose, and finished it with a water sprinkler. Then I installed a.new 1/2 inch valve on the drain.for the lower water inlet.  I attached the hose from the cistern to the lower valve, opened the valves on the cistern output and tank input, and removed the inner stem from the tire vale. When the tank was full, some water will spurt out from the open tire valve. Then I close both valves, remove the cistern hose, reinstall the tire valve stem, and use an electric air pump to apply pressure up to 50 PSI.  Now if I open the water sprinkler, i have a hand held shower!  After one use (about five minutes) the pressure can drop but if I have electrical power, I can reapply air pressure again. After several showers, I release the remaining air pressure at the tire valve, refill the tank from the cistern, and apply air pressure again. This has worked for years, and I keep everything ready for the next storm of when I have no water supply.

Topic by RaymondR6   |  last reply

Need help regarding the conversion between keyboard and a controller

Hello everyone I am diy enthusiast and been doing a lot of diys But as of late i got into technical and electrical diys And this one diy got my attention and i somehow stumbled upon a great idea. I guess everyone knows of SmartBoy, i am trying to clone it but with a few adjustments. So basically this is the base video i am making a controller with the ideas from Evan Kale https://youtu.be/g2bgjl43Cm8 But the only thing that i don't understand is how did he connected all the buttons i mean how did he made that circuit and copied it to the foil. Is that a common circuit or is there something included which I don't understand.

Topic by HariK131   |  last reply

The greatest knex ball machine contest!

It's KneXFAN200 here with the third k'nex ball machine contest. There will be no prize unless you count being put on a collection of best ball machines with instructions, favorite on every instructable, vote on every instructables, and a subscription!. There will be a Grand winner, a First place winner, second pace winner, and a runner up. So lets get to the rules. First of all, it needs to be a ball machine that is new. I'll make an exception though, you could do a ball machine that was made from Jan. 2017, and up. What you will do is make the ball machine first of all and post it on instructables. Then, you put the ball machine link in the comments or just by emailing me on instructables. After that, I will put a picture of it on here and once there's 20 entries or by the beginning January, the winners will be announced and will be put in the collection (in order) that I talked about at the beginning. One more thing, I am not entering this contest. Enteries: https://www.instructables.com/id/Weird-Knex-Ball-Machine-1-Tiny-Box/ From random_builder Thanks and good luck,                                           KneXFAN200

Topic by KneXFAN200   |  last reply

Building boxes to fit existing doors

I have about five Tasmanian Oak cupboard doors and they are an odd size (W:490cm x H:575cm). I want to use some of them on low-hung overhead cupboards in the kitchen. They have a board insert with a plan board on top and sides. They would look good, I think, just lightly stained and sealed or painted white in the farmhouse style. Problem is, because they are not a standard size and I cannot by stock cupboards to fit. I thought I could buy mdf or pine boxes to attach them to but the odd size makes this difficult too. So then I thought - I will have to build them myself. As I am a total novice, does anyone know how I can do this, tactically and in the most economic way? Thank you in advance ...

Topic by calyad   |  last reply

Broken GND button on Stanton turntable

Anyone run into this problem? How to fix please thanks

Topic by hoolia711   |  last reply

Failing to ground a light fixture. Help

I asked my husband to turn a brass boat prop into a hanging light fixture. It doesn't seem to be Grounding because the light is very dim. Any ideas?

Topic by Cravinsalt   |  last reply

Knex Guns that do not use rubber bands

Guys, I don't have any rubber bands (I know I'm a saddo) and I love knex guns. I need some knex guns that don't use rubber bands. THANKS!!! 

Topic by Dude826Dude   |  last reply

3 way light switch push button, working at low voltage controlling line V light

I'm adding an additional light to a room with 2 entrances in an old house. Instead of using the common 120V 3-way SPDT switches to control the light fixture from 2 points, I'd like to use a relay (or something electronic) directly connected to the load of the light, and I'd like to run low voltage wires to push buttons located near the doors of the room. These will control the light by one press = on (if the light is already off), and the following press will = the alternate condition, the light going off. IOW, the push-button will toggle the on/off condition.  There should be a commercially available relay (some kind of latching relay, perhaps) product with the circuit. Can anybody recommend something? Or, perhaps I could put together the components myself. Does anybody have a schematic of something along these lines?

Topic by nehmo   |  last reply

Advice for PIR motion sensor

Hello, I am currently developing a wireless PIR motion sensor for my home with Arduino and I need some advices (I am new with Arduino). The product will send a signal everytime it detects someone but I need to switch on/off when I am at home. For instance, before switch on/off on the device, it will detect a movement  (and I don't want to). Is there any way to switch on/off remotely (right before entering in the house for instance) ? 1/ Infrared ? Is it consume a lot of battery ? 2/ Bluethooth ? Is it consume a lot of battery ? 3/ Other ? Thanks for your help,

Topic by arduinodev 

Safety of your garage door or car remote...

No time and no pics for a proper Instructable, so I just put out some word of warning ;) Around here bad people take advantage of the fact that a lot of new houses have the garage right next to the house. With these you usually also get a door so when you park your car you don't have to get out of the garage again. All controlled by the press of a button on the remote... Some fancy guys got a device working similar to the IM-ME Open Sesame hack a few years back. But unlike the original author the new guys found ways to make money by providing working "universal garage door openers" on dubious websites. Problem with the new model is that it not only fakes a remote with dip switches but also the newer models with so called "rolling code", "intellicode", "changing code" and so on. The old remotes with dip switches should actually by phased out years ago by any owner who values his stuff... But the new models are still deemed secure and next to impossible to hack - well if you trust the advertisement... How does the code hacking work? The old dip switch models allow for a maximum of just over 4000 different codes and come in just 3 or 4 frequency bands. No real problem for anyone with basic electronic and coding skills to hack these - as shown with Open Sesame. The new models all use a so called rolling code, here the remote and opener are paired through 32 bit of ID code and an encrypted part that changes every time. Both remote and opener calculate the next code once a button was pressed or a code received. To overcome reception problems the base usually calculates the next 256 codes in advance - and that is the entry point for bad boys. The illegal device scrambles the frequency detected while storing the code received by the orignal remote. As the door did not open the owner will try to press the button again. Still scrambled to opener does nothing - until the device sends out the first recorded code! Now the owner can drive in and is happy. Of course he still needs to close the garage - again all is scrambled and the code stored as before. You see where this is going.... It is even possible to set the amount of required tries to capture, so in theory a bad guy could get the next 10 or codes in advance for use once the owner is gone out... Worst thing however is that these illegal devices not only open garage doors but also cars as a lot of them use similar systems for their remotes - up to the point of starting the car with it. Took me only 2 hours with Google translate to find a website outside the usual search results that offers these "gadgets", along with WiFi and cell phone jammers, credit card copy devices and more things I don't want know about... What can you do to protect yourself? First check what type of remote your system uses - if there are DIP Switches than replace the remote system or the entire device in favour for something more secure. If you already have a rolling code model that you are far better off but sadly no longer totally safe here. A lost remote should not only be replaced but the old one removed from the system as well - you never know if you just lost it or someone took your remote ;) Alternatives exist, especially if you are not afraid of doing some open heart surgery on the electronics of a garage door opener. You can add a WiFi module and use your mobile phone to open the garage - search Google if you like the idea ;) Another very neat way is using a second transmitter that keeps the relay for activating the opener from working. This can be anything from a BT module paired with your phone or cars BT system over a keycard to numberplate recognition cams. A good system also allows for a "holiday mode" or similar. Here you can set this mode with one remote until you deactivate it with the same remote the system will not react to anything. Great if you leave the house for more than a day or two... As a last resort you can always get a big and angry dog to sleep in your garage.... What if you are renting or a bit limited with the electronics and soldering skills? Not all is lost if you can accept a second remote for added safety. These days you can get plug in converters for your mains voltage outlets that work with a remote control. Unless they use Infra Red for this they are great to disable your opener. Simply plug it in where the power cord for the opener is and then plug the cord into it as well ;) Now you can fully shut off the opener with the press of a button and only if the power outlet is switched on the opener will work. If in doubt you can use a double outlet adapter an extension cord and a night light to indicate wether or not the opener has power. Ok, and what about the door lading from the garage into the house? Well, of course keep it locked and if you are home also keep it locked. At least this way you have some extra time in case someone tries to enter through your garage while you are sleeping ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 

Doors and WIndows Automation

Hello, I am trying to automate the windows and doors in our barn using NEMA  stepper motor and Lead screw and would like to exert around 20 Kg force for opening or closing. The windows are fairly old and made of wrought Iron. I am wondering if somebody can advise and help me selecting the motor (based on torque) and the appropriate diameter of the Lead screw for this instance.  The idea being that when the lead screw rotates, the ball nut flange moves left or right and pushes the connecting rod out or in thus opening or closing the window I have attached a rough sketch what I had in mind and please pardon me for any mistakes. Many Thanks Ash

Topic by AshishJ61   |  last reply

water table/play area

So I recently took my 3 year old to the children's museum in Indianapolis, which was great, but what really stuck out for him was the water table/play area. I think he would have been happy chasing boats around that table all day. But it got me to thinking that i could build one of these in the backyard (scaled down, of course!). I've been looking for plans to accomplish this, but everything I find is basically an elevated tub or plastic tote. The project I'm envisioning would be on an incline so the boats could follow a set path. Initially, I was thinking it would be shaped like a ring, so he could climb under it to be in the middle, but I think a rectangle would be simpler (and walking around the table would be good exercise for him!) The path would (on a gentle incline) circle around the perimeter of the rectangle, so boats would eventually end up near the starting place. He could then pick up the boats and set them on another circuit. Probably would need a pump to pull water from the end back up to the starting point, which would provide a current to help the boats along.  Any ideas or suggestions that could help this project along? Potential issues? One thing I'm not sure about is how to handle the water depth on the incline. I forsee the water rushing down the incline to quickly, leaving just a trickle to attempt to carry the boats along, leaving the boats "beached." Maybe there should be no incline at all and rely on the pump to provide the current? I'll attach some images of the super fancy versions we've encountered in museums, just as example of my inspiration.  

Topic by gharper1   |  last reply

How do refrigerators work?

I've always wondered what keeps my beers cool and my cheeses fresh. Now I'm new to Instructables, but on the advice of a good friend, I thought I'd post this here:   I love to figure out, research, how stuff works. And then figure out how to tell that story. This one animation has a bit of a story itself, because it turns out I made the first version a bit too fast... I didn't do my research properly. Anyway, so here it is. I'm curious to know what you think!

Topic by Sebvandenbrink   |  last reply

Guitar amp doesnt play sound in headphones when pluged in.

Hello, so I have a Orange amp, the crush 20 rt model and it plays just fine. When i want to play the sound to the headbphones it doesn't play. There is amp amp plug and the headphones plug, next to the headphones is the aux where i plug my headphones, but when i play, the sound doesn't go to the headphones. Any solutions? Also sorry if there are any mistakes in my engrish.

Topic by BacharH   |  last reply

How many pieces counts my knex ball machine Revolution?

That's my question for you! Here is a link to Revolution (with more pictures and a video) You can only enter one answer. This are the prizes: 1st place: 6 months pro membership and a patch 2nd place: 3 months pro membership and a patch 3rd place: a patch The contest closes Friday, 18 July 2014 Good luck! ~Sandroknexmaster~ ____________________________________________ Results! Total number of pieces: 13531 1) dr. richtofen (12369)                     6 months pro membership and a patch! 2) myOmy (12345)                            3 months pro membership and a patch! 3) Knexmaster888 (14948)               A patch! 4) Sorunome (15000) 5) Gargamel-Knex (15316) 6) didexo (17343) 7) nerfrocketeer (17344) 8) ~KnexBuild~ (18016) 9) Knex2thelimit (18292) 10) Zombiekiller-93 (7000) 11) akshat21045 (21045) 12) FlyingFish10 (118999881999119725) Thanks for entering! ~Sandroknexmaster~

Topic by sandroknexmaster   |  last reply

Cool gel mats for pets

Hi, all! I foster dogs and cats in Baton Rouge for several non-profit agencies.  Lately, I've had more than a few feral cats needing a temporary home.  I had an idea (inspired by something I saw online) to use the trunk from the crepe myrtle tree my boyfriend chopped down to "catify" the carport where they like to seek shelter at night.  Considering that I've never owned a power tool until now, I think it's coming together nicely so far (pics attached).  Please keep in mind that I'm no carpenter....   This is south Louisiana where the Summer temps are high and the humidity is even higher.  I can only imagine how awful that must be when you are sporting a full fur coat outside!  Here's where I need your help:  I want to make cool gel mats to fit the odd shaped green shelves you see attached to the walls.  I have been sewing for many decades, so making these "cool" cushions to fit is not a problem.  The problem is how to make the GEL that goes inside the mats that keeps the pet cool.  I'd rather not use any toxic chemicals, just in case one of them punctures the gel mat causing it to leak and then decides to drink the gel.  So, maybe there's a chemist out there, or just some intelligent individuals that  might have the answer to my problem?  Any and all suggestions are very much appreciated! Thank you, Linda

Topic by Lbcaswell   |  last reply

Zipdart help

I'm struggling to figure out why range is so low for this thing. The barrel ends right after the bands stop pushing the projectile, the effective length is over a foot for the barrel, and even after adding 15+ lbs of band power the projectiles are going maybe 40 ft no matter what projectile I use. Any ideas? 

Topic by Dreamwave   |  last reply

I need video game ideas!

I am currently starting to design an Xbox 360 game using Microsoft XNA Game Studio (a library for rmaking X360, Zune and PC games in the C# language), but I am stumped at thinking of ideas. I have thought of many that seem good at the time, but while starting to plan, program, or make graphics for them, i realize it wasn't that good of an idea and give up on them. If it is good enough, it will be sold on the Xbox LIVE marketplace (under Community Games) and can win a contest. If you do help me and give a suggestion, please know this will be a 2D game (i can do all the work for a small game, but I can't do 3d modelling). Also, I can use an advanced physics engine and there aren't really any limits to ideas I could use. If you do give me an idea, I can even give you credit in the game. Also, it should be something original and innovative, think outside the box! Thanks in advance if you do help me out, this is probably the hardest part of game making!

Topic by mappum   |  last reply

Instructables in the Classroom

Just wanted to let all know that we have a group of students involved with Instructables.com  I gave my students a simple project...Make something and document it.  Please take a look at the projects that have been posted so far.  I only post when I feel it meets guidelines of a contest.   Also try to incorporate the value of social media other than posting picts on Instagram Check us out and follow MyWlakeTech Was just notified that one of my student's projects made it as a Finalist in the FIRE Challenge. Looking forward to any feedback other teachers might have.  Really proud of all the FEATURED projects they have created. Regards, MyWlakeTech

Topic by MyWlakeTech   |  last reply

knex pocket pistol

This is my knew knex pocket pistol, it can fit in a pocket (obviously) and is very powerful here is the link for the instructable  https://www.instructables.com/id/Knex-Pocket-Pistol-1/

Topic by dynamite_kid   |  last reply