This is my knew knex pocket pistol, it can fit in a pocket (obviously) and is very powerful here is the link for the instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Knex-Pocket-Pistol-1/
Topic by dynamite_kid | last reply
Hi, I finally signed to Instructables. :) My colleague is a big DIY guy and that's how I came across Instructables. Today, while searching for something I came across homemade recipes for musical instruments and that really hooked me on. Especially the one on turning an 6-string acoustic to bass acc. :) I had tried learning the guitar but didn't want to spend too much on the instrument, so I bought a second hand one from a garage sale (proceeds were for the city's stray dogs - so for me it was a bit of a win-win...almost :) ) What I realised much later is that: 1) The wood under two of the tuners (on the under/ventral side of the guitar) has splinters 2) One of these tuners has lost a fastening screw because the hole in the wood has widened and splintered a bit 3) the base of neck, just before the curve block that connects to the box, has a 1-2mm crack running across it (horizontally) Question is, can these issues be fixed so that a beginner like myself or someone who really doesnt have the money to own a guitar but wants to learn can still use it for some time? I never found the time to go to a music shop to have it checked. I also feel they will probably turn me away because they are more interested in selling guitars than fixing them. I really dont want to just throw it away. Second hand it may be, it just doesn't feel right... Your inputs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! P.S.: Am at work right now but I will try and post images of the guitar as soon as I can. I had taken photographs of it a looong time ago. As a result, tuning goes off every now and again. On a colder day, tension increases and the crack widens. Update: Terribly sorry for the delay in uploading the pictures. I had a set that I had taken a year or so ago but I seem to have deleted them. Just got some time off work, here are the pictures. The crack, which I had earlier described as horizontal, is in fact, vertical. So much for my memory...
Topic by aristarkhos | last reply
Hi all, I have been scouring the web and have yet to find what I am looking for. I have seen a couple of different LED lights embedded in outlet covers and switchplates, but I need to do-it-myself because whoever cut the outlet holes in my house clearly had the shakes, and I want to convert the larger size custom covers I need to have LED lights especially for the kitchen and the bathrooms. I also want to put them into covers that have unusual configurations, such as two outlets and a switch, etc. I have a few things I need. (1) it cannot prevent full use of the outlet (I don't have any to spare) (2) I need to be able to use amber lighting so as not to have the normal blue of standard white LED lighting wake me up, which should be easy enough. (3) I would really love to be able to add them to GFCI outlets, too, but my understanding of how those work is limited. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. I'm good with electronics right up until it involves building your own circuits, but my electrical skills pretty much top out at re-wiring a lamp, understanding how many amps it is safe to pull in a house circuit and how not to electrocute myself. I want to do this right, so it's stable long term and safe. Again, thanks for any help, folks. -Lois
Topic by LoisBelle | last reply
My name is John currently I am looking to make full immersed video games the reason I am telling you this is because I need all of your help. If you have ideas about some video games that you want to see made contact me. If you have experience and want to help the dreams and ideas of others become realities contact me. Any and all who love video games and want to see your games be produced join me. Contact me either by email: email@example.com or by comment on here Your help and ideas are important to you which is why I ask you to join and help each other together our dreams and ideas will become real.
Topic by loudermilkj | last reply
Hi. I'm looking for a group of people to help me make a Video Game. I have lots of ideas, but the big problem: I have absolutely NO coding, drawing, or music composing skills. I'm looking for people who have those skills, and would like to help out. I live in Canada, but you don't have to live there. I'm good with Skype, or something else. I'm fine with any software. I don't have any money, but I was going to put the games on Kickstarter, and I could pay people off that profit. I have ideas about most genres, like RPG, or action, or even a simulation. One idea is this war game where you command a small army, and attack other people. I can't really explain much, other than you can upgrade your troops, and unlock special troops, like Motherships. Or maybe a tycoon game. I don't really know, I mostly come up with ideas on the spot... So that's all I think i should say. If you need more questions answered about me, just ask. PLEASE HELP A GUY OUT!
Topic by NickelGames | last reply
Does anyone actually still play Pokemon Go? I got into it last summer when the craze was sweeping the world. I rather enjoyed it as it added a little extra purpose and fun to my evening walks and trips to the park, but it became frustrating after Niantic ruined it with one bad app update after another. I understand that they did eventually fix a lot of the problems, but I'm just wondering if anyone who fell out of love with the game managed to get back into it. I recently made a new 'working' Pokeball Instructable and writing the I'ble got me thinking about Pokemon Go. www.instructables.com/id/Working-Pokémon-Poké-Ball-3d-Printed
Topic by ThirdEarthDesign | last reply
I'm making a board game,and I can't think of a way to make the little pieces...? The characters..? What ever they're called...the part that you move around on the board.. I've thought of a lot of things..pipe cleaners, cardboard, wax, and a lot of other dumb ideas. Does anyone have any suggestions..?
Topic by kelcylane | last reply
I'm looking for a cheap version of the self winding watch winders like they have at http://www.ewatchbox.com/stsiwawi.html. I haven't found anything under $70! I searched this site and couldn't find anything either.So here's a challenge for you gadget gurus out there that think this might be something fun to make!I look forward to seeing what will pop up here!JM
Topic by JibsMan | last reply
Foodsaver makes a small handheld unit called the freshsaver handheld. It is rechargeable but has a strange design which requires the unit to be pre-charged immediately before using. After use, the unit does not hold a charge very long. 24 ish hours if I recall correctly. The starnge thing is the unit will not operate when plugged in. I guess it's just designed that way. I remember seeing a tutorial on how to make this thing work on ac power but, I just can't find it now, no matter how hard I try. Would some kind soul please solve this puzzle for me and make an instructable? Pretty please?
Topic by sway | last reply
Hey :) I'd like to build a small lazy susan out of K'nex. I've got a pair of the blue motors that I'd like to use with them. All my searching is coming up with nothing and I am NOT the creative type. I've tried. I know it's possible, I just cannot figure out how to do it. I want to be able to put small objects on it for display. Could someone point me to some plans? Thanks so much!
Topic by gabisdaddi | last reply
Ever wondered how these thermal papers for your fax machine or supermarket docket work? Nothing that is printed by fast machines for you these days uses ink when it comes to cheaply producing a parking docket for example. If you played around with these papers you already know they turn black when you apply heat. A soldering iron at low heat makes a nice pencil on them... But what if you pet or kid loves to play with these papers? Often they like do just jast with the receipt for your fast food if found inside the bag ;) Most people would not consider a piece of paper as a health risk, but for thermal paper this can often be a different story. A lot of these papers still use bisphenol in one form or the other to develop the ink from crystal clear to black. Feel free to read up on it on Wikipedia - I recommend it! They also have more info on the thermal paper itself, including alternatives to bisphenol. Although recent studies are in favour of the thermal paper, when handled correctly some also show an increased risk for those dealing with a lot of paper - like the people working at cash registers in a really busy shop. Bisphenol can get into the body through the skin and by ingestion - for example when your kid tries to chew on it. As noone really knows where the paper you got came from it is a guessing game to figure out if it is free of harmful chemicals... So the best option is to avoid exposure when possible. If you know your kids or pets might to try eating some paper then make sure you don't leave any thermal paper around where they could reach it. But there is good news too as more and more countries try to set standards for thermal paper in regards to harmful chemical levels and protective coatings. Cheap paper for almost any priter out there can always be ordered from asia to avoid higher costs of local and safe paper though...
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
For some reason the central heating/cooling fan is making a banging noise. I know it is the fan because when it kicks on, I start hearing a banging noise. It like bangs 4 times a second. Does this mean I need a new fan or can it be repaired? Also is this a motor problem or a problem with the fan wheel? It sounds like hitting an air duct with your fingernails.
Topic by ADRIANT28 | last reply
I know there are some Dutch knexers here. Since Holland is quite small, maybe we can have a war or share ideas. If you are Dutch tell me and if you're interested in a war say it. Since this is ment for Dutch people i will now continue in Dutch. Als het je wat lijkt om een keer een gevecht te houden PM me dan en ik zal proberen meer deelnemers te werven. Als je weet welke mensen met knex instructables Nederlands zijn post dan even een comment. Voor een war geldt: minimaal 12 jaar oud maximaal 15 jaar oud minimaal 3 maanden ervaring met knex guns over de tijd, locatie, plaats en regels kan worden gediscussieerd. GEEN GEWEREN DIE VERDER SCHIETEN DAN 25 METER!!!!! als je tips hebt of je wilt gewoon wat kwijt, zeg het dan P.S. Use google translate if you want to know whats written in Dutch (it's just the age, experience and requirements) P.S. If you want to say something, post your comment in both Dutch and English if possible
Topic by Knex.X | last reply
Young maker and Instructables author Joey Hudy (lookwhatjoeysmaking) was recently diagnosed with Schizophrenia, as explained by his sister Elizabeth on a gofundme page set up to help assist his pathway forward, found here: https://www.gofundme.com/joehudysfund Please take a moment to read his story, and donate if you are able. On behalf of the entire Instructables Family: Joey, we wish you the very best going forward! Thank you everyone!
Topic by seamster
Hi When I redid my basement a couple of years ago, I thought I was being a hero and built a huge storage closet. However, as my daughter as reminded me nearly everyday, I screwed up. The shelves are 24" deep and stuff seems to get swallowed up into the back never to be seen again. What I would like to do is this - any help? I would like to install 3 32" "box store" bookshelves (15" deep) against the back wall of the closet. Then, install another 2 of those bookshelves in front of the back ones on some sort of sliding rail(s) on the floor. What I am trying to accomplish is that when someone needs to get to one of the back bookshelves, they would slide one of the front ones over to reveal the back thereby allowing easy access to all "missing" stuff. Hope I made sense. Thanks
Topic by HillelS1
Hey guys! Before i say anything else, Merry Christmas! I know I've been quiet, but that's because I've been working on something big. I have a good idea of when it will come out(about jan 3). And here's a tip for you guys. When things get quiet, things start to get crazy(crazy for me anyway lol). If I'm gonna finish this, I'm going to need a little more knex. I think that I am going to make a mag fed rifle that shoots green rods. Pics are handle. Third pic is handle attached to something.
Topic by tinyhooman | last reply
It's KneXFAN200 here with a k'nex ball machine contest. There will be no prize unless you count being put on a collection of best ball machines with instructions. There will be a Grand winner, a First place winner, second pace winner, a third place winner, and a runner up. So lets get to the rules. First of all, it needs to be a ball machine that is new and has instructions. I'll make an exception though, you could do a ball machine with instructions that was made from May, 2016, and up. What you will do is make the ball machine first of all (unless it's built from May 2016 and up) and post it on instructables. Then, you put the ball machine link in the comments or just by emailing me on instructables. After that, I will put a picture of it on here and once there's enough ball machines or by the start of March, 2017, the winners will be announced and will be put in the collection (in order) that I talked about at the beginning. One more thing, I am not entering this contest. Thanks and good luck, KneXFAN200
Topic by KneXFAN200 | last reply
Which is more popular on Instructables.com: K'NEX guns, or K'NEX ball machines? Please post your opinions below. (Note: Credit for the ball machine picture goes to sandroknexmaster, and partial credit goes to dr. richtofen for the gun)
Topic by The Knex Inventor | last reply
So, I've Had a Pair of ATH-MSR7 Headphones for a few months now and I've wanted to know how to turn them from standard wiring to balanced wiring with 3.5mm jack endings (Got the Idea after reading how to do this with the ATH-M50X Model, https://www.instructables.com/id/Balanced-Headphones-for-About-130/) If Anyone can give me an answer or point me to a tutorial (Trust me, I've searched, can't find a tutorial) i'd be mighty grateful. Many thanks for a reply. Also this is for a portable DAC with two headphone Jacks like a Pono or an AK240. Thanks again.
Topic by Desmin Grey | last reply
Here is Atlantis, my knex ball machine. This machine has new layouts and designs not yet seen in ball machines of its size. Atlantis will only have one lift and four paths, this ball machine is mainly made for its looks. This ball machine is built on a 5X5 red rod base with 5X5 red rod walls that are slanted. This machine has two finished paths, one is almost complete, and one that has not been started. Some of the elements can be seen from the pictures. Im currently out of pieces, and wont be getting more for a long time, so Atlantis may not be standing for long. This ball machine has been in progress for months now. Tell me what you think!
Topic by DELETED_Blue Mullet 2 | last reply
There has been a shift to much younger children on this great site, kids who think that we who provide answers to their impossible dreams, are free site service robots just for them. ( Not leaving out a great many grateful individuals ! ) A lot of these kids believe we are clairvoyant about their specifics, some behave with poor street manners. My grand kids are being raised with good manners including respect. I hope you, with your children, here and other countries can avoid the, throw_away_attitude mindset. Speaking for myself, I would happily welcome being recognized a living human resource more often... A Thank you is as pleasing a response as a BA... I even get along with Violators of thermodynamic laws.. There are individuals cutting your text, Keep your Guard-Up ! Regards and Thank You for reading my rant, ICeng...
Topic by iceng | last reply
I had this wireless charger for my phone so I decided to incorporate it into a phone dock. I tried to make it look nice and used some creativity to get the angle I wanted for the back. The wire for the charger comes nicely out of the back of the base.
Topic by jollex | last reply
OK, had an idea and went with it for my ZipDart V.2. Unfortunately, currently having a bit of a brain fart of how to put a ratchet mech in. I've tried 7 attempts, 3 have even actuated and of those three none were responsive enough to be at all deserving of the ZipDart name. There is a google photo album linked below of the mech area and the gun on a whole. Feel free to comment either there or here with any ideas or insight. The mech can be complicated, just so long as it takes less than a half an inch of actuation rod travel to actuate and is fairly strong. Thanks for any help--if anyone has any questions or wants any more pictures, just ask. Photo album
Topic by Dreamwave | last reply
Hello again, long-time no-see Instructables K'Nex community! I figured I'd make one last forum topic as a sort of farewell. This community was pretty incredible to me and for me in my early years of high school. Instructables was such a intuitive outlet for my free time years ago, and I wanna thank everybody who was there to tell me that my early K'Nex creations were trash. As sarcastic as that may sound, I mean it in all sincerity. Criticism is a good thing to learn from, and it has made me into the person I am today. Thanks again everybody! I'm not eloquent enough to describe how much those 2 1/2 - 3 years meant (and mean) to me. I've got one or two more things up my sleeve before I go though, so keep an eye out. In the meantime, check out this pre-view of my latest project. Lastly, if you are into gaming (a bit of self promo here), I decided to do something that no one else has done before, start a gaming channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWayoCFvVX9cmLo78q2lo_w If you see something you like, subscribe, yada yada yada, tell your friends, yada yada yada... -The Red Book of Westmarch (I had no idea how much I missed typing that out at the end of every instructable)
Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch | last reply
I recently bought a mid-century rattan dining table with four chairs. I want to replace the cushions on the chairs - two piece, but they have snaps to keep the cushions in place. I do not plan on having snaps on the new cushions, but that leaves me with the male part of the snaps. If I pull them out, which I want to do, I will be left with a bunch of holes and no clue how to fix them, and since I haven't removed them yet, I have no idea how deep the holes will be. I am open to any and all suggestions. Thank you! PS, I've tried to upload photos, but it's not working.
Topic by Luny | last reply
Does anyone know how I could put a knex gun into this body? I like the p90 design, just can't get a gun into it. Maybe a rail gun design could be made use of here. I also want the mag on top like a real p90 if you're gonna give me a design. ....if the top mag is possible
Topic by tinyhooman | last reply
"Severus Snape is a fictional character in J. K. Rowling's Harry Potter series. He is characterised as a person of great complexity, whose coldly sarcastic and controlled exterior conceals deep emotions and anguish." Wikipedia Actor Alan Rickman, Snape in Harry Potter films, dies at 69. https://www.google.com/search?q=professor+snape+actor&biw;=1550&bih;=746&source;=lnms&tbm;=isch&sa;=X&ved;=0ahUKEwj31pf7larKAhUINT4KHTdRBq0Q_AUIBigB&dpr;=0.8
Topic by iceng | last reply
K'NEX Gun Builders of Instructables, The reason that I am posting this Forum Topic is that I would like to hear how YOU design YOUR K'NEX guns. What are your secret techniques and tricks of the trade? Please post your comments and answers below. Thanks!, -The Knex Inventor
Topic by The Knex Inventor | last reply
I have tried so many different ways to heat my pool water and have had little luck. One way I did it was to take about three hundred feet of black 1/2" drip line and run it around the pool rim. I supplied cold water from a smalloutlet attached to the return line,using the power of the filtration pump to move the water from the pool through thecoil and I adjusted the flow to about half of the normal, then at the end I had the heated water re-enter the pool. Iwould say the water got to about 100 degrees, by the time it went through the drip line. The problem is that it wasn'tefficient enough to have any real effect on the pool water temperature which stays at about 60-65 even on the hottest days. I live in the Sacramento area of California, and we get pretty hot summers, usually about 90-105. Any suggestions on how I could make this idea more efficient? My pool water temp is always too cold to swim in, and I have a capacity of 12,000 gallons.
Topic by dandaman1950 | last reply
At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.
Topic by Downunder35m
So I have been very busy with lots of projects and have not been able to build much with KNEX but now I have some time and hope to make some new and innovative KNEX guns. Do any of you have KNEX guns in the works or new ideas that you want to try out? There is almost Zero activity in the KNEX gun community And it would be really nice if we could bring the community back to life! So that's why i'm posting this to hopefully get some of you building again! Also I just wanted to see if any of you have things that you are planning on posting. There was no KNEX contest this year and it really sucks because having a contest really seemed to get people that don't post any to post stuff. Do you think there is going to ever be another KNEX contest on here again? If you have any KNEX gun ideas please post in the comments with your ideas!
Topic by sonic broom | last reply
Hello, I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on a project I want to do. A new property I'm moving into has bay windows and I want to build a seat for the Mrs. to read and relax on, however any time I look for instructions it has you attach the seat to the wall. Would there be any detriment to simply building a seat in the shape of the wall and just pushing it against the wall without installing it permanently? I'm renting this place and don't fancy having to rip this out of the wall if they don't want to keep it. Thanks, Adam
Topic by AdamF138 | last reply
So i was bored one day and i made a knex underbarrel chainsaw attachment, it works tho, but the chain doesnt have little hooks so its safe to use in and out of knex combat it was really really bulky and rather heavy, it uses a modified knex motor and a micro chain you should be able to build it from the pictures oh by the way the gear closest to the handle is a bit to the side so the chain is a bit crooked
Topic by Kona-chan | last reply
I have been trying to get RID of a smell with no success. The smell is in a shared closet space between my unit and another unit in a basement (duplexed down units with first floor above grade). The smell is so damp and musty and just terrible. This is true especially in the summer. I want to sell this place, but people have been opening this shared closet and are immediately like what the heck! I have noticed it all along, but in the winter it is faint. My spouse says he did not notice it, but at least 30 potential buyers were not okay with it and noticed it in the Summer...no one really commented in the winter, but I always smelled something. We put in a dehumidifier which we empty every single day because it is full (see in picture the type of dehumidifier), but we cannot for the life of figure out where the moisture is coming from. One person told us it was likely coming out of the floor....I have no idea if this is the case...it almost looks like plywood is on the floor. I guess this would be a subfloor? In one of the pictures, it shows where the door opens to this shared space right out of our den. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I have tried essential oils, carbon, baking soda, the dehumidifier (which feels completely up in one day). It is closed off in the closet and there is no window or any way for the smell to get out unless we open the doors to our unit and then the units smell! We cannot smell it at all in either unit with the door closed. It is sooooo bizarre. These units are duplexed down to the basement. It is absolutely puzzling me and has kept us from selling our unit after a winter deal fell through. When we started showing in the summer, the smell was so strong as it usually is in the summer. I guess we never paid attention because we never go in there unless getting something from storage. Can someone tell me what I can do and what type of floor this is? It kind of looks like it has gray paint on it, but it is certainly some type of wood or a material like it. Should we get someone to rip the floor up? Why is the smell not in either unit? Please help!
Topic by CareBearie | last reply
Hi, I'm looking for the software to program the Cyber K'NEX utra sets. They are no longer available from the K'nex website. Does anyone know a place where I can download this? or does anyone still has this on his PC ? thanks in advance, K'nex fan from Belgium (Europe)
Topic by Jorian | last reply
I find that whenever I start working on a new project I can get rather passionate and excited about it. This usually results in me getting a little carried away with the making process (typically spending every spare minute I have working on the "next big thing"). It sometimes gets on my girlfriends nerves and you could say she becomes a bit of a "workshop widow". I'm just wondering how everyone else manages with their work / making / life balance. Looking for your stories and experiences (any tips would also be appreciated!). I've tried getting her involved in some of my projects, but that's easier said than done!
Topic by ThirdEarthDesign | last reply
Hello, K'NEX community! I am the Knex Inventor, and I am looking for ideas of what I should post. If you have an idea of what I should post, please comment below with your suggestion, and I will consider making it. If I do make and post one of your ideas, I will give you partial credit for helping to come up with it. Thanks!, -The Knex Inventor
Topic by The Knex Inventor | last reply