Halloween Making: Why do we do this to ourselves!? ; )

Closing in on midnight on October 30th, and I found myself in a familiar situation . . .Making last-minute Halloween costumes and props for my kids!Here's a photo of my late-night kitchen table, where I was working on a homemade hover board prop from the "Back to the Future" movies. I paused for a moment to survey the scene and snap a photo, and couldn't help taking note of the silliness of the whole thing. It's midnight. I'm tired. My kids are asleep. And I'm up making this thing. WHY?Why do we do this to ourselves?! - - - - - -I know why I do it, but tell me why you do!Were you up late making stuff for yourself or for your kids? Share your reasoning and thoughts on being a creative Halloweener in the comments below. Be sure to include a photo or two of what you were making!

Topic by seamster   |  last reply


Knex Mp7 PDW

This is my new H&K; MP7 PDW. It features a removable magazine, a foldable front foregrip, iron sights, and it is very sturdy. Hope you liked it and see you next time with another knex gun!

Topic by TheKnexPro   |  last reply


Knex HK 417

This is my Knex HK 417. It is very nice looking with its flashy side rails and stock. It was a very large gun that held a lot of ammo and shot very well. It was able to shoot passed the length of my house. It also had a removable magazine. I liked building it because it was different than your normal M4 styles.

Topic by Blue Mullet   |  last reply


I NEED THE HELP OF ALL FIDGET TOYS LOVERS :)

Good morning,my name is Benedetta Piazza and I am a master student at the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan. I am currently writing my final dissertation about “Consumer Entrepreneurship in the Creation of new Markets: The Case of Fidget Toys”. I am contacting you since I have read that some of you took part in the creation of creative-innovative fidget toys. I would like to submit you a survey in order to get more specific information about your interesting project. I hope not to disturb you and get a feedback from you, this is the link to my survey, it only takes less than 3 minutes, I primise!: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1xfnj_kqI0R7sItWu5-YTPuzCcefRpUpGhB_9u8DSMyc/edit Best regards, Benedetta Piazza

Topic by BenedettaPiazza   |  last reply


The Validity of Astrology

So today in one of my classes we talked about the practice of astrology and how it supposably affects us. My teacher didn't tell us to go and relie on horoscopes on how to live our days. I was just wanting to hear some other opinions on it. Personally i'm still sort of reluctant to accept it, not sure why but... Just ya know post your opinions on whether you think this really old practice is BS or is worth taking a look at.

Topic by wingman246   |  last reply


Removing hairspray from painted woodwork

Can anyone suggest how to remove hairspray (off spray) from painted wooden surfaces (doors) as we have tried all proprietary household products and white spirit without any success and it would be nice to have to avoid repainting the doors..!!

Topic by Briarswood   |  last reply


K'NEX Halo 3 Dual SMGs and Battle Rifle

Dual M7 Caseless SMGsI made another SMG and a Battle Rifle! The SMGs are almost exactly alike, except when I made the second one I noticed some problems and made a few small changes. Also, I didn't have enough of those swingy pieces I used for the forestock joint, so I used ball and joint pieces, which worked great.Here is the description from the page I made when I made the first one.This is a K'NEX model (just a model, not a gun) of the M7 Caseless Submachine Gun from Halo, better known as the SMG. It has twin notch sights, rear and fore stock, and a solid barrel. The stock is extended, the way I made it, but I'm thinking about making it collapsible. It should be fairly easy to put in a firing mechanism, but I don't plan on doing that right now. I don't think I'm gonna post instructions because I would have to take it apart. If anyone can dissect it in their minds, go ahead and make an Instructable, but make it a collaboration with me. M7 Caseless SMG on Halopedia.orgHigh-Res M7 Caseless SMGBR55HB SR - Battle Rifle, Heavy Barrel, Sniper RifleDifferences between BR55HB SR (Halo 3) and BR55 (Halo 2)- Longer barrel- Trigger guardI based my model off the BR55HB SR, which is the actual name for the Battle Rifle in Halo 3, so it includes all the changes. It has the elevated rail, which has a scope on it. You might notice at the end of the barrel in the picture of the actual gun, the barrel looks expanded at the end. I did this too. The inside of the model is almost completely hollow, so it would be easy to convert into a gun. The barrel at the end would be hard though. The whole thing is very solid, even though it's hollow. It's also very easy to make, unlike the SMG.BR55HB SR Battle Rifle on Halopedia.orgHigh-Res BR55HB SR Battle Rifle

Topic by Aeshir   |  last reply


Looking for help exceeding a fundraising goal

My son had jmml leukemia and I’m looking for help raise money for the cause. I’ve been a member of this community for a while and I feel you guys can do a lot to help. Please follow the link to donate. https://pages.lightthenight.org/mi/DetroitL18/SuperBradley

Topic by The Rubber Duck   |  last reply


Sharpening knifes and similar tools

On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Archives

Where are the thousands of Instructables I have seen in the past? Is there an archive page? Thanks

Topic by nedwired   |  last reply


Knex Sig 552

Hello, this is my Knex Sig 552. It was pretty cool because it looks fantastic. It was a very cool gun. It shot very well and held around 15 blue rods. It used some micro Knex which wasn’t that bad. It had a removable magazine to. The sights were also pretty cool to.

Topic by Blue Mullet   |  last reply


Halloween Costumes

I need to make a costume for Halloween. I need to make a costume from scratch (or not) that will end up as Dorothy from The Wonderful Wizard of Oz. Any suggestions or advice or help?

Topic by blinkyblinky   |  last reply


Right glue for the job

HI ThereI know this is not a craft question but does anyone know the type of glue that would be good to stick a piece of floor vinyl back to concrete floor. I have a small piece which has been torn and keeps flapping up its driving me mad and I don't want to just tape it down. many thanks LB

Topic by bilesl   |  last reply


K'nex M4 Carbine

About time I made an M4 carbine. The farthest shooting/accurate and sturdiest gun i've made to date mostly due to the muzzle loading. WHAT!!! NO MAGAZINE!!! yep, it was abandoned due to horrible range and often jams. It's more of a sniper than an assault rifle and is extremely accurate with a grey rod + grey connector. It uses a modded dsmans barrel for maximum accuracy and distance, accuracy due to the barrel going through the forgrip. I also added a 4-railed foregrip for attachments such as virtical foregrip (shown in pic), bipod, dot scope, lights/lasers, or anything that can attach. Tell me what you guys think.

Topic by Trauts   |  last reply


Will replicate any gun*

Yup you give me a gun and I will replicate it* I just don't know what to build but I really need something to post NOW! I'm trying to build my rep up even more so I'm hoping to have at least 10 replicated guns before the end of this summer. Please leave me a good picture of the gun or a link to it. I have the right to reject any gun that I feel I either dislike (miniguns) are too simple (sten) or too complex (uh...insert some very complex weapon here)*will not make anything that involves explosives unless I feel like having an extra grenade launcher or something. I have enough pieces to make most weapons but still limited so nothing big. I will also not make a random gun with just requested features it has to be a real gun.Edit: To encourage people to vote for a gun I'm going to list the features I hope to include in the gun if I do make it.~List of guns~SAW-1 I'll try adding a chain either for actual loading or most likely looks not sure what else yet.M1 Garand-2 I'll probably try a similar loading style.MP5-1 Detacheable mag plus extendable stock.FN F9000-2 (just one more vote) Bullpup design and...well I'm not sure what elseDragunov-1 Detacheable mag and I'm not sure what else but there will be more.You may either place one vote or add your own. I'm only taking 2 more requests bofore you have to vote on one of the choices. If you vote for someone's idea then please post so in a reply to their weapon so I can keep track of how many people voted for it.I'll probably hold this topic until one of the guns (or an new suggested gun) gets 3 votes so hopefully it won't be too long. Then I'll build the next to reach 3 and so on. New guns will be able to replace the old ones in the list that get built.

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


Polishing small or very detailed metal parts - the easy way ;)

I should not get hoocked on the cummunity side here again but well, I am bored today...If you have a vintage car, some old steam engine models or even really old clocks then you know my pain.Copper, brass and sometimes aluminium was used and if not cared for in time they nice shine goes first.Dirt and dust come next.And with more time passed we start to consider leaving it as the polishing would take forever.Take one of my "hobbies": old mantle clocks...Literally everything inside is brass.Now polishing a bass backing plate with some holes is quite easy if you have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the debris out of the tiny holes when done.Even tried to polish a sprocket or fine spring mechanism?If spoked then this is a really painful job.But the same is true if you have old copper and brass ware, like these old stenciled pictures on copper sheets.No matter what you try these jobs end up to take more time than what you imagined and in many cases fine details are left oxidised or filled with the polishing compount.Now imagine you could get rid of these tarnishes and discolorations without cramps in your hand and bying all sorts of polishing products?Sure there are the well known brands that polish a lot of metal with ease by simply wiping over them.But they use harmful and often toxic chemicals and are still no good for really fine details like grooves or emossed stuff.Wearing gloves and protection is often a must and at least I can't stand the stink of them.We all know how to clean our dishes, even how to get the dried on lasagne from last night off the dinner plates.So why not do the same with our brass, copper or aluminium parts?Just use a spongue, rub and wipe a bit, rinse off and let dry.Ok, those who tried before reding the rest might be a bit angry now as it does not work that easy.Well, actually it does, just don't use dishwashing liquid :)Let me give you two of the worst cleaning problems I encountered first:You did some very fine brazing to create something nice from brass or bronze.The flux you can wash off, but polishing the discoloration from the heat and resulting oxidisation will take longe than the brazing job.The other ecounter was the restauration of a petromax style blow torch of alomst 60 years of age - but thankfully it was never used for more than decoration.All brass and a lot parts impossible to polish due to size and being quite delicate.Now we all have ways to spend a lot of time and being creative to use normal ways of polishing.And, yes I did so myself for many years and kick can myself now too.Since we can't do any advertising here and I clearly don't want to promote any brands or harm other brands by rendering their costly products useless I need a way out that helps everyone.So, again, I am not trying to promote anything here!However I noticed someone in my favourite restaurants kitchen polishing some dark copper pot to a mirrow shine in less than 5 minutes!I was shocked and asked the manager to explain what I just saw.He was confused to say the least..."We clean our pots every day, sometimes more depending on what we cooked in them."Sure but what do you use to do what I need several hours for in minutes and with better results?"Just water and soapy powder to shine the metal sir. All natural product."Omg god or Kali! What makes it shine so quickly?"Shining powder sir!" - mind you the poor guy was now totally confused and worried, while I started to loose my insanity.He noticed the look on my face and went into the kitchen.Gave me a fance looking bag that apart from a lot of Indian writing I could not make any sense of stated "Shining powder" on the pack.When the manager saw the look on face this time he laughed and asked "How do you clean your copper pots sir?"I was speechless and just said with much more time and elbow grease...He packed about thimble worth of powder for me to try and said it would be enough for a medium sizde pot, just use a wet spongue and put a little bit of powder on it.And guess what the stuff worked as good as in the restaurant :(I can't even count how many hours I wasted polishing copper or brass parts with fine details.Or engine parts from aluminium with brass parts inside....With this stuff you just wipe and tough cases rub a bit harder and all is done in literally seconds.In tight areas or those with fine details you use a fine brush like those for painting in water colors.And with that and a spongue you clean even the finest details with ease.In an ultrasonic cleaner it even works on areas you can't reach, just wipe what you can reach and see somehow and it shines.Now if you want this magic stuff and check if the guy here is just pulling your leg then be prepared to pay a lot of money.200 grams of this powder will set you back between 5 and 15 bucks depending on where you shop.That is enough clean about 300 midsized copper pots or a few hundret meters of copper piping....Just ask for shining powder in your Indian grocery store ;)We all waste money or stuff we don't need, so if you have coper, brass or aluminium to polish then try washing it the Indian way - just for fun of testing something else.And if after that test you think the few bucks and information was well worth it than please post your experience with the powder in the comments below.I hope all those members here working with these metals will read this too, so if not help me to spread the word please ;)I am struggling to upload some pics I have taken from the blow torch but will try again alter once I reduced their size.If in doubt I will upload them to a hoster and link them.Disclaimer:I don't advertise, I don't promote!However I am so pleased with this dirt cheap product that I use it now as my prefered and natural option.For this reason I think it is worth sharing.It is not a magic cure! If you have pitted areas, solder marks or brazin coming out of joints it will not help.Same for scratches, they still require abrasive polishing to be removed.But normal dirt from being displayed for years, oxidisation and even slight discoloration from corrosion will vanish.And if the surface has a good polish underneath all this than it will come back with ease ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Going to sleep with HP monitor

So I am trying to help my grandparents fix there computer, they have a dell pc ( don’t know what exactly ) and a hp 22cwa monitor. The monitor will stay on in tell I plug the hdmi in then it says no signal then goes to sleep mode, I have tried new mouse and keyboard on the computer, as well as using another cord on this monitor and pc but neither work. I did take the monitor to my pc and used the same cords and it instantly worked with both cords just fine. Before today this monitor has been working for almost 6 months with no problem and now is randomly doing thos

Topic by huongrio   |  last reply


Find or How to Replace Old Dried Out Gaskets in a Set of 4 Ceramic Kitchen Canisters

We have a set of 4 ceramic kitchen canisters that are so old the foam seals, or gaskets, have dried out. I cannot find replacement gaskets anywhere. They were made by an individual, so there is no company to write to for replacement parts. Does anyone know who sells such gaskets? Foam or rubber or silicon will work.Or, is there a way of making replacements? I've seen amazing things done on "instructables" with silicon; molds, fake heads, toy octopus, etc. But I have never worked with it. Is it OK for a seal that will be in close proximity with salt, sugar, flour?The canisters are glazed ceramics that some individual has made.Attached are photos of the canister, mating surfaces, and existing gasket.Any suggestions will be appreciated.Thank you.Phil Brown, Southwest Wisconsin

Topic by oghk2000   |  last reply


Cheap ideas

Looking for cheap ways to make something out of tension wire spool.

Topic by DUMB8   |  last reply


Is anyone skilled in metallurgical engineering?

*Yes, I know, another question involving college and my future life.*I am kind of split between mechanical engineer and metallurgical engineer. They both have some great benefits and trades that I'd love to go into, but it's difficult deciding which would be better for me.I do aspire, no matter what field I go into, to weld and do other metalworking, although I don't just want to weld for people. I know it sounds weird, but I like to take the time to know about what I am working on, and not work at "face value", if you will.So, any mechanical or metallurgical engineers who want to try to sway me one way or another, please do so now. ;-) Thanks,Bran.

Topic by Bran   |  last reply


Can You make High Pressure Water Washer with an Air Compressor?

Hey Guys, Any one have experience with fluids? Is it possible to build a device that would take high pressure air from an air compressor and from that make at least a mediocre respectablely powered washer? I'm thinking about buying a small air compressor and and looking to see if i can use it for other things as well. Thanks! JP

Topic by jpl500   |  last reply


How many languages do you speak ?

1) How many language do you speak ? 2) What are they ? 3) Which one(s) do you speak fluently ? 4) Which one is your first language ? 5) Do you find usefull to speak more than one language ? 6) Which one (of those you speak) do you find the most difficult ? and in what is it difficult ? 7) What language would you like to learn ? edit: (two more extra questions i forgot to ask ...) 8) Why did you learn these extra languages ? 9) How often do you use these extra languages ?

Topic by chooseausername   |  last reply


dancing paper dolls with magnets

When in Europe, I saw a street vender that stood near his little boom box and had 2 dancing paper dolls next to it. I bought the paper dolls and now need to figure out what he did to his speakers or magnets in his speaker to create this illusion of dancing dolls that can dance next to a boom box. The dolls had magnets on the backs of them, so it had something to do with a magnet inside his boombox. Can you help? Thank you.

Topic by tedvanilla   |  last reply


Black Ops II - K'NEX Weapon Versions "Wanted"

Hey Guys. Well, Black Ops 2 is a pretty sweet game, and I am sure you already know this. The thing you may not know is that many people, including me, would like to see K'NEX versions of those guns included in the game (and trust me, I plan on building some of these...). So without further adieu, I present to you pics of the Assult Rifles, LMGs (Light Machine Guns), Shotguns, Pistols, Shotguns, Sniper Rifles, and SMGs (Sub-Machine Guns) of Black Ops 2 (see names below). Assault Rifles (pics 2 - 8): 2) TYPE 25 3) AN-94 4) FAL-OSW 5) M8A1 6) M27 7) MTAR/FLATTOP TAR 8) SMR Light Machine Guns (pics 9 - 12): 9) QBB-LSW 10) HAMR 11) LSAT 12) MK-48 Pistols (pics 13 - 16): 13) Five-Seven 14) B23R 15) Exicutioner 16) TAC-45 Shotguns (pics 17 - 20): 17) S12 18) KSG 19) M1216 20) R870 Sniper Rifles (pics 21 - 23): 21) SVU-AS 22) Balista 23) DSR-50 Sub-Machine Guns (pics 24 - 29): 24) PDW-57 25) Chicom CQB 26) MP7 27) MSMC 28) Vector K10 Some of these guns seem pretty impractical, but they will be cool none-the-less. Lets get building. =D -The Red Book of Westmarch

Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch   |  last reply


Knex Combat/War Worthy Shotgun - A Tribute

Hello everyone,  So, out of the blue I decided to take a walk down memory lane and watch some old K'nex gun videos on YouTube. After some time, I came across a video from several years ago. I'll link the original below, but basically it was a video by KILLERK about wanting to build a more war-worthy shotgun. There were a couple of these videos where he basically talked about what he wanted to have on this gun. At the time, I didn't see a video or any post on a finish product, so I decided to build it myself based upon his wants.  Note this gun is unfinished as I just wanted to show it off. However, it will be completely finished, and if there is a demand I will make instructions for it. The following are the guns features, along with its characteristics: -Pin guide -Charging bolt -Straight-pullback rolling trigger -Comfy stock -Comfy handle -Trigger guard -Finger separator  -Sturdy construction -No broken parts (None are required)  -Good ergonomics -Looks nice/clean -Shotgun turret, with KILLERK's shells -Because of the design, trigger strength, and shell design, the gun is very powerful -Good spread of bullets, thanks to the shell Now for something a little more personal. Personally,I think it is the best gun I have ever made. I wanted to make one last gun that revived old concepts as sort of a thank you to the community that I've been on since 2011. This community has been a considerable part of my life, as I used to spend a lot of timing playing with these plastic toys. With leaving for college in a month, I don't see myself really building anymore, not to mention posting anything new. The post I make for this gun will be my last K'nex related post. However, like most, I'll still lurk around.  KILLERK's video Thank you to all.  -Didexo

Topic by didexo   |  last reply


KNEX MechWarrior Series PDF's

I was too lazy to dig out the instructions to make the MechWarrior line of KNEX and went looking for the pdfs. I couldn't find them any where online, so I dug them out and made pdfs to share with everyone who missed out on the line, lost the instructions or like me is too lazy to find the instructions. I'll upload as many of the pdfs as I can here; the rest are at this link: http://www.4shared.com/u/KpLjxBMX/clanknexer.html You have to make a free account to download them (UPDATE:  you don't need to make an account to download), but it's worth it. If you have a better website to share these files, please let me know. The pdfs include: The Cauldron Born & Owens The Mad Cat & Avatar The Shadow Cat and Sunder Series 1 Firefly Uziel Vulture Series 2 Hollander II Thor Uller Series 3 Converted MiningMech Legionnaire I am missing the Black Hawk (which i seem to have lost) from series 3 and the entire line of electronic armor (series 4) which includes the Fire Starter, Catapult and the Converted ConstructionMech. If anybody has a pdf of them or willing to sell them please let me know!

Topic by clanknexer   |  last reply


Will it work if I use a guitar in the microphone input

Sorry, can't really think straight today I'm just wondering if I got an adapter for a standard guitar cable to fit the microphone input in my sound card, would it would it work as a microphone and record off my humbuckers?

Topic by Chicken2209   |  last reply


Best vedio game

What do you think is the best video game in the world? What console do you think is the best? 

Topic by XxsonicxX   |  last reply


Exploding K-cups in a Keurig coffeemaker

Our Keurig coffeemaker is several years old. We began to see a ragged star opening in the top of the K-cups after brewing and coffee grounds various places outside the K-cup. All of the usual recommended fixes were no help. (See below.) This video gave me a solution that worked very well for us. (I have no personal connection to the video or its maker.) We now see only a neat round hole in the top of our K-cups after brewing, not a torn and ragged opening. Video summary: Remove two screws under the flip-up cover above the K-cup holder. Remove the decorative plastic cover by tugging at it. Snip the zip tie that keeps the soft white tube on the fitting. Pull the tube from the fitting. Hold the end of the tube over a cup. Cycle water through the Keurig until several cups come out clean. Clear the upper and lower needles of coffee grounds. Attach the tube with a new zip tie and screw the cover back in place. One word of caution: Very hot water spewed onto the soft skin at the base of my thumb and it was very uncomfortable. I draped a folded towel over my hand while hot water was being expelled from the disconnected tube at the top of the Keurig. Also, I ran quite a number of cups of water through the Keurig until I got three consecutive cups of water without any debris particles of any kind in the water. (I did not see an accumulation of coffee grounds like the man describes in the video, but I saw what was similar to pieces of a brown wing from a housefly.) In the two or three days following the procedure in the video we did occasionally have a K-cup blowout, but have seen only perfect round holes after a week or so, and we probably brew a dozen cups of coffee each day. The usual recommendations-- +Keurig's official recommendation as the cause of grounds migrating outside the K-cup is too much air inside the K-cup as evidenced by a domed lid on the K-cup before it is punctured. Their recommendation is to poke the top of the K-cup with a pin before putting it into the Keurig. Because of my observations and experience, I give very little credence to this. +Accumulated lime from the water needs to be descaled from the inside of the Keurig. Lime accumulation does cause a partially full cup of brewed coffee. We regularly descale our machine. We have also run water through our machine whenever we have seen grounds in our coffee and some grounds came out with the water. Descaling is a good thing to do, but I doubt it has a connection to bursting K-cups and grounds where they do not belong.  +Clogged upper and lower needles. The video will direct you to use a wire to insure open passageways inside the needles above and below the K-cup.

Topic by Phil B   |  last reply


how can I make a cricket chirping sound w/o electronics?

I'm trying to figure out a way to produce a realistic cricket chirping sound, using something mechanical (i.e., not electronic).  So far, I'm not having much luck.  The only examples I've found of what people are calling "cricket noisemakers" are either big carved wooden cricket-shaped toys with a serrated part that you rub a stick against (which doesn't sound remotely like a cricket) or the WWII metal clicker that was called a cricket, but sounds even less like one. A cork twisting in a tapered wooden hole produces a squeak, but crickets use "stridulation" which, if you slow the sound down, is actually comprised of about 6 individual tones in rapid succession.  That's a complication I'm still trying to wrap my head around. Any suggestions? Point of reference: https://youtu.be/CQFEY9RIRJA

Topic by Bricology   |  last reply


top thrill dragster complete video and pictures.

Top thrill dragster completed.

Topic by the_burrito_master   |  last reply


Time HAS been going faster

Learned something today, i thought it was just me but, has anyone noticed how time seems to have sped up in the last few years? well thats because it has. December 2005 an earthquake actually sped up the Earth's rotaion. Kinda freaky, eh?

Topic by wingman246   |  last reply


What is the best glue for plastic to leather?

Last winter I ripped the plastic sole from my skiing boot, and I would like to reattach it. It looks like it was originally held on by glue, and that is what I thought I should use.Any idea on what type of glue I should use for this?

Topic by Sedgewick17   |  last reply


Barackuda Internals

Alright, I grabbed some more internals for the latest version of the Barackuda. I can't believe it's already been over a year since the last time I updated my status update thread. It's sad that nothing much goes on here, but I'll still maintain activity as long as I have ideas. I bought a home in the summer and have since been doing adulty things but I've been looking for more hobbies, so I'm still interested in doing a K'nex gun building guide series for newbies. I otherwise haven't built much. But anyway. For those that don't know, which I imagine are few, the Barackuda (portmanteau of Barack as in Barack Obama and barracuda) is basically a compact bolt action repeater with a small, removable drum magazine. I believe this is the first time a magazine like this has been successfully implemented on a weapon. I spent years figuring out the design and trying to perfect it, never quite satisfied, but I really need to just throw it out there. I'll get full instructions eventually. Hopefully these will do for now. Sorry if some of the pictures ended up sideways. I was using my phone and rushing. Let me know if you'd like any other pictures.

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


Help! My low voltage, outdoor lighting wont light up - transformer error codes?

I bought a Portfolio 300watt transformer for low voltage outdoor lighting and hooked up a 100' 12 gauge cable (outdoor rated lighting cable) to it. Then I hooked up 4 low voltage lights (12volt 20 watts each). I plugged the transformer in to a gfi outlet that I ran out from the house. And turned it on. The little display flashes "E" and then "1" . The instructions say that the E means that there is a fire hazard so check the circut. So I unhooked every light except one. Same error. I hooked on a different light and unhooked the first one. Same error. Instructions say the cable needs to be under 250'. And the load less than 300w. I am there, except it won't run. Do I have a bad transformer or is there something that I am missing? Oh, and this is to light my haunt in my front yard, so I am running out of time! Thanks for any advice! Matt

Topic by mckeephoto   |  last reply


TR-8 Aftermarket kit, TR-36 "Overkill"

I know this works for cars, so I decided to put an extreme spin on KILLERK recent TR-8. The majority of the body is based of the TR-8, but as you can see I added a little different styling to the handle which is also used to support the heavy turret. I added a bit more of a stock to the original but kept the mechanics the way they were. (can't mess with perfection) The turret itself has a ratchet, similar to the TR-8 which allows the turret to only "wind up" in the correct direction. The turret is also attached the same way as the TR-8 with a socket joint in the grip of the gun. I threw some tactical rails on the sides of the gun to try to hint at capability with attachment but the turret is kind of blocking any attachment you would put there. Overall the TR-36 Overkill feel awesome (heavy) and with that phenomenal power and range you would expect from any turret gun. Tell me if you're interested in an ible' and I'll start working on making one.  Thanks for looking! JonnyBGood

Topic by JonnyBGood   |  last reply


How can I get rid of the smell of damp concrete in my studio?

I have been working without success on the smell in my 12' x 14' studio for 5 months, so I really hope someone can help me. I can put my nose right up to the walls and the ceiling and the outlets and not smell anything. But when I put my nose right to the floor I smell the dank, musty, yucky smell of damp, dank concrete. The place reeks of it, I can't work in it. I smelled it last October when I was looking to buy the house, I told the inspector about it but he could not smell anything. Everyone can smell something when they open the door, some people can tolerate it but I can't. As soon as you open the door it just overwhelms you. What I have done so far: 1. Had two peg board walls removed and replaced with chipboard, because that was what the other walls were made of. I had assumed at that time that the smell was mold coming from the pegboard. At that time I looked at the insulation inside the studs and it was fine. It smelled so good with that new chip board up that I thought the problem had been solved. 2. In preparation for painting I caulked the ceiling, around the windows, and up against the floors where it meets the walls. 3. Painted 3 coats of Kills primer on all the walls. 4. Painted 2 coats of very good quality semi-gloss paint on all the walls. 5. I scraped off all of the existing paint that was on the floor. It was peeling in places which is what led me to think the smell was coming from the concrete. 6. Washed the floor with a de-greaser. 7. Washed the floor with sulphuric acid, and rinsed it about 30 times. 8. Painted the floor with 3 coats of special paint made for concrete basements to act as a waterproofer. 9. Painted 2 coats of sealer on top. 10. I called the previous owner who confirmed that the studio's monolithic slab was poured without a vapor barrier because code didn't call for it, because no one was going to spend the night there or live in it. He never noticed the smell. 11. In all this time I have run the A/C non-stop, with the windows open, with the windows closed, with no effect. I have even run the heater for a few days. I have cleaned the A/C over and over, there is nothing to clean and the smell is not coming from there. Is there anything I can put on the floor to effectively seal the smell from getting into the air? Why didn't all those coats of concrete paint and sealer do it?

Topic by Ninzerbean   |  last reply


Minecraft Server IPs

Post your Minecraft server IPs here! NM

Topic by NatNoBrains   |  last reply


Hardest Games You've EVER played

For me.... Burnout the first one DMC 3 on Dante Must Die FFVII Dirge Of Cerberus on Hard GTA San Andres<< NO CHEATS!!! FFXII-- finish %100 wth Zodiac Spear and finally Dystany Warriors 4<<< never get past the first 5 mins... to repedative.

Topic by teh_pyroazn   |  last reply


Status update (Update: Barackuda soon to post)

Hey, peoples. I'm rather sad to see the community dying but I figured I'll cling on a little longer, try to spark some more activity if possible. I see people still posting instructions, so that's good. Just wish we'd keep more discussion going on the forums. Anyway, a couple things: Just to show what I have around, I tried to make something after my Barackuda but didn't end up going anywhere. I just wanted to have something around, so I remade and improved my SMRI model. This version was designed solely for looks based off my last version. I couldn't really be bothered to try making this one shoot. It still uses Red's stock because I couldn't think of a better design at the time. Anywho, this wasn't meant to be the impressive bit, just something to show while yabbering. =P With the Barackuda and the SMRI, I realized that I'm still limited in a few pieces. I desperately need more dark greys, oranges, and black hands. I also realized I feel bad destroying guns and never keeping them around so that I can build new ones. I figure I might as well build my collection up so I can keep more guns around. So I've ordered more pieces. I'll get them probably some time early next week. I'm hoping to build something right away. I'm thinking of revisiting my Barackuda to see if I can improve the trigger and feed ramp. I might redesign it entirely. I'm hoping to attempt a repeating slingshot of some form at some point too. But it's an area I've never worked in before so I might get discouraged pretty quick. I dunno, I need to try actually building these ideas I have sitting in my head for years. I'll post more in here once I get the pieces and start building something. Update 2/19/16: I'm mostly finished with my new version of the Barackuda. I filled in the empty gaps on the rods of the magazine to make it fuller looking. The trigger -should- work better now but I just noticed it struggles to set when it's still pulled back while cocking. I suspect I just need a better band setup to resolve this, otherwise it works fine when you manually push the trigger forward. Last, the stock was changed entirely to give the bolt a rail to glide inside of with a solid bolt stop right after the trigger engages, allowing for a quick and smooth action. The handle connection is also more sturdy, so the stock is surprisingly rigid. Overall I'm much more pleased with this version, as long as I can figure out the trigger bands this might be posted. I'll begin working on yet another remake of the UMP soon. Update 11/9/16: Man, the year sure flew by. I apologize for never really getting around to posting the Barackuda before. This time I think I've finally gotten over my perfectionism. I've adjusted the stock to keep the same track design but attached it differently and otherwise made the rest of the stock use less pieces. I've figured out a (I think) new pair of K'nex sights more precise than our usual chunky ones, not that it'll help much. The trigger and back of the gun has been adjusted to block the pin further back, hopefully improving range slightly. The front of the gun was made more compact and flat at the bottom to allow potential changes to the front of the magazine in the future. It also makes muzzle loading much easier in tandem with the new ramp. The ramp is also simpler, more consistent, and hopefully offers better range than my other ones. Finally, the magazine has been adjusted to be easier to load and hopefully more reliable. I'd finally say this is a practical war weapon alternative. I'll post this...hopefully sooner rather than later. This time I mean it.

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


Fitlight trainer using arduino

I want to make a fitlight trainer with arduino. I want to make it with leds and LDR ligtht sensors. A random light pops up and when you hover over the sensor it sets it to LOW and then another random light pops up and over and over. Can anyone help me with this idea? I have the code for one light: int LDR = 0;     //analog pin to which LDR is connected, here we set it to 0 so it means A0 int LDRValue = 0;      //that’s a variable to store LDR values int light_sensitivity = 20;    //This is the approx value of light surrounding your LDR void setup()   {     Serial.begin(9600);              pinMode(13, OUTPUT);      } void loop()   {     LDRValue = analogRead(LDR);      //reads the ldr’s value through LDR     Serial.println(LDRValue);       //prints the LDR values to serial monitor     delay(50);        //This is the speed by which LDR sends value to arduino     if (LDRValue > light_sensitivity)       {         digitalWrite(13, HIGH);       }     else       {         digitalWrite(13, LOW);       }   }

Topic by JordyK4   |  last reply


Convenience Winch for use in Home Loft

I would love to get ideas for making a winch that I can mount as needed on the railing of my home loft (without damaging the railing), for use in exchanging cold drinks, snacks, office supplies, etc.  between family members on the two levels of the house without needless stair climbing.   Apologies for my terrible SketchUp skills. 

Topic by mahoopes   |  last reply


How to use Table saw

It's easy to buy a table saw for our personal use. but its not easy to use this tool. so, there are some instructions and proper guideline to use this tool so that users will be safe and cutting also sharp and smooth.

Topic by jashimcox   |  last reply


Homemade player piano

So I got two pianos for free, one in great condidtion other than being out of tune and having a stiff action, and the other, a player, having a badly cracked soundboard and pinblock.  I salvaged the player pneumatics and bellows from the player and managed to mount it upon the other piano.  On each note bellows there were rods that pushed on levers to trip the action of the player piano.  On this one, these levers are about a foot and a half above the bottom of the action, because it is a console piano (shorter).  I've tried linking the bellows to the keys with hooks (which didn't work, it just pulled the keys off the center pivot point) and directly to the action, on the bridle strap hook.  I've tried different strings and two different gauges of wire, but they always seems to stretch, untie or to come unhooked whenever a note is triggered with the player, or with the keys.  If anyone has ideas on how to link the player mechanism to the piano action, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Topic by SamDavisson   |  last reply


Who here has fish ?

Who here has fish? if you do have fish, what kind? I have two panda corydora catfish, a betta fish, and a gold mystery snail in a twenty gallon tank. if you do have fish what are there names?

Topic by iman   |  last reply


Do you like outdoor games?

Nowadays lots of people are limited to stay in house and play indoor games because of the tech things like ipad, online games. But not long later, you will feel tired of it and go out for some fun.  For different kinds of outdoor games, what do you prefer?  Have you ever try inflatable games. I find it very interesting and exciting.

Topic by hinaqin   |  last reply


First Tijme RPG

Hello, I have an idea for an rpg game and am a novice in the game mechanics. I'd like to do it in the pen and paper format. Does anyone have any thoughts/help?

Topic by Gagreg   |  last reply


Pet Travel Kennel Into Doghouse

Hello everyone!  Finally made an account after using this site for over 5yrs because I'm hoping to find some advice. I have a big, plastic, dog-sized travel kennel (airplane kind).  Since my pet isn't using it anymore, thought I'd convert it into an outside doghouse seeing as though it's practically complete already.  To prevent rain from getting inside, I need to cover up the side & back barred "windows".  My 1st impulse was to replace the metal bars with wood, but rain would just leak in through the top.  Any thoughts on attaching a makeshift roof?  I've added a picture of it to help (the metal door has been removed).

Topic by Project_Mayhem   |  last reply


Murphy/Wall Bed Over Couch

I am looking to get or make a forward facing full sized make bed that would flip up over a couch.  I see https://murphybeddepot.com/products/next-bed-free-shipping-to-cont-48-u-s-states, and also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-rwAUR14Z8. I like the idea of a couch, and like the simplicity of flip up/down "next bed" - where there's no frame around the bed. Does anyone know of any plans or where I can make or get a reasonably-priced "flip up bed over couch" like that?

Topic by pranaman 


Two-way hinges

My wife and I bought an 80s designed house that's not that well designed. We keep one of the litter boxes for our cats in the garage, which is accessed from the inside through the laundry room; and we want to install cat doors so our aging felines can pass through the doors easily to get to it, while keeping the draft from the garage out of the family room. The interior door (between family and laundry rooms) is a standard hollow core and the exterior door (between laundry and garage) is fire code rated solid wood door.  We tried a standard top-hinged door with the cats already, at our old apartment, and the cats didn't take to it, so we we're hoping to do french doors, since they know how to get through normal doors pretty well. But we're kinda stuck on our lack of knowledge about hinge designs; we need hinges that swing both ways. Has anyone out there successfully completed such a design/installation and would be willing to share pics and secrets? 

Topic by sirenwerks   |  last reply