How to make knex gun stronger?

My knex gun always bends, im trying to make a Mosin Nagant.Watch the video and look at the picture provided to see what i am trying to make and see if u can fix the problem with it bending.Also tell me if after the problem is fixed if i should post.

Question by 345138   |  last reply


Any good designs for a tone generator using 555 or 556 ic chips?

I've seen a few on the web but I was wondering if any of you out there have put anything together that you really like.

Question by bigdeee   |  last reply


I've have lots of mini keyboards and toy guitars. How can I store / transport them safely on the cheap?

Mostly for circuit bent music - I've got toy guitars like the One Man Jam, Tyco Hot Lixx, Tyco Hot Keys, etc. and mini casio and yamaha keyboards with new knobs and switches sticking all over the place. I'm afraid that some of the plastic parts may be broken (plastic whammy bars, knobs, etc.) may be broken if I just chuck them in a cardboard box or gig bag, but I don't have lots of money for a fleet of custom ATA road cases.

Question by Aud1073cH   |  last reply



What's the best way to bend coat hanger wire, for making a DIY GameKlip?

So I discovered my Samsung Galaxy S3 supports USB gamepads.  Well long story short, I quickly hacked apart an old original Xbox controller, replaced its 10 foot xbox cable with a 1 inch USB cable, and it works GREAT in most gamepad-supported Android games like Dead Trigger and Shadowgun.  The next obvious move was to make a holder to attach my phone to the gamepad, to have a portable gaming device, like an nVidia Shield.  Now I know commercial solutions exist, like the Gameklip, but they're all designed for the PS3 controller, which I don't have. So I've attached pictures of my first two versions.  The first picture showing the regular coat hanger wire wrapped in black electrical tape.  It held the phone just fine, but it was butt ugly, because I used electrical tape to protect the phone from the steel coat hanger wire.  So I made a second one (2nd picture), using a rubber/plastic coated coat hanger, thinking it would look better, because I wouldn't need to wrap it in electrical tape. Well the problem is that I'm so horribly bad at bending wire, and at planning, and measuring, that I had to make so many corrections, that it too looks butt ugly.  It's a completely different design than the first one, for starters.  I can never think of how to design these things on paper.  I always just get a rough idea in my head, and then play it by ear as I go along.  But because steel coat hanger wire is so incredibly tough, every time I try to bend it with pliers, or a vice grip, I end up damaging the nice plastic coating, making it look ugly.  Multiply that by the number of times I had to make corrections, and well, you can see the result.  The second design is the one I'd like to stick with, however.  Mechanically speaking, it is perfect.  Two nubs on the bottom, and a nub on the left and right sides, hold the phone in place using gravity and friction.  Then the whole thing uses spring-tension to compress the left and right nubs inwards, squeezing the phone in place, but without letting these nubs get in the way of the USB port or the headphone port.  One can adjust the width and tension of these left and right nubs, just by squeezing or stretching them apart, to fit different sized phones and cases.  Finally, two support legs are left at the end of the wire to easily place the whole thing on a table. Both versions are attached to the controller in the same way:  I started with two loops, as small as I could make them, right next to each other.  Then I just bolt the whole thing to the controller through those two loops, and two holes I've drilled in the controller's memory slot.  It's an incredible pain in the ass to try and get the nut and washer in the tiny amount of space in that memory card slot, but I managed to do it twice. I want to build a third, good looking one.  So now I've gone out and invested in some proper, straight steel wire (of the same thickness and stiffness as the coat hanger wire), and some heat-shrink tubing to protect the phone from the steel.  But I need advice on how to do this properly, so that it looks good.  The only way I can use the heat-shrink tubing, is to put it on FIRST, BEFORE bending the wire.  I couldn't possibly imagine how to do it AFTER bending the wire.  But the problem is, I'm worried that my vice grips/pliers will damage it the same way they damaged the plastic coating of the coat hanger. Any suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated!

Question by moeburn   |  last reply


Knex Review: Longbow SR-L Crossbow

Creator: DJ RadioLink: https://www.instructables.com/id/Knex_Longbow_SR_L_crossbow_The_offical_sniper_remi/Area Overviews:Comfort: 9/10Range: 8/10 (50ft)Power: 9/10 (i can get it through 3 sheets of paper)Gun Strength: 6/10 (may break with too many bands)Gun Overview:Stock: 7/10Handle: 9/10Barrel: 8/10Trigger: 9/10Comments: a pretty cool crossbow. it fires well but may misfire sometimes. the bow does bend quite a lot so dont make unless you dont mind bending a few rods. the trigger is reliable and the handle s pretty comfy. the stock is comfortable but doesnt look the best.Verdict: the body could do with a kool looking frame and filled in stock etc. a new bow that doesnt bend could do no harm. but overall a pretty good crossbow!

Topic by statified   |  last reply


Sample and Loop Frog (Bent toy)

Hey Folks, i ordered this frog at dealextreme. com.Its called a "Digitally Recordable Motion Activated Visitor Welcoming Door Chime Frog". Originally it is a toy that says "Hello" when someone passes by. You can use your own sample, simply by pressing a button to record it to the frog. Nice toy for circuit bending i thought. Here's what i made today. I added loop, pitch control, input and output jack and a button to start the sample manually. Okay it has still a few bugs, but it works. Hope you enjoy the video:  

Topic by mischka   |  last reply


Is galvanized steel dangerous to be making rings with?

I am making chainmail in my room and my dad thinks we'll get zinc dust in our carpet and possibly get sick from me bending the wire.

Question by pindalanderz   |  last reply


How can I fix this power box thing for my guitar pedal?

It used to work fine but someone stepped on the cable and now it only works if I can find a way to bend the cable so that current flows, but honestly this sucks( cause I have to be holding it somehow to be able to play).

Question by moyoteg   |  last reply


9 inch relaxed S shaped fat fake tounge that can flex under pressure, but will always snap back to original position?

I'm making a 9 inch tounge for a krampus mask, it needs to be an S like shape, be flexible enough to bend but always snap back to position, and Ideas how I can make this on the cheap?

Question by Cpt. Caleb   |  last reply


knex AK-47 mods

Before i post instructions for mods in my knex AK-47 i will post them here and ask you if you want them. so far the mods i have are : new butt balljoint in front grey connector in front to stop the barrel form bending frucher mods: mag will replace hand guard anything else i can think of lol

Topic by dsman195276   |  last reply


Star wars fans look here!

This is it, the most durable knex lightsaber ever imagined. Each piece doubles up the next creating a blade that will not bend nor break, even with high speed collision. The hilt (figure 2) is also quite detailed considering this is made with knex. The only con to this is that the blade doesn't retract. If you like what you see then tell me. I will make it an instructable if asked.

Topic by osi   |  last reply


New washing machine waste pipe overflowing Answered

I'm the opposite of knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing however I have done a fair amount of searching through forums to find an answer to my problem and unfortunately still have questions. To make it easier, I have taken a picture of the pipes as well as the actual waste hose behind my machine. The hose from the machine sits in what I believe is called the standpipe on the left and goes approximately half a foot down. I have taken apart the p bend (or u bend - still don't know the difference) and confirmed that there is no blockage. I have run a snake down and around all the pipes with no issues and also used some soda crystals just incase but water flows through the pipes easily. What I believe is the issue is that the output from the machine is producing water faster than it can travel through the pipes which are 40mm in diameter. I believe that if I removed the p bend and just replaced it with a 90° corner, it would work fine but obviously it's there for a reason and particularly with the pipes only a 6 feet from the drain, I'm very reluctant to do that. One more thing to point out is that on the right hand side, there is a pipe which I have capped off. I was wondering if that trapped air could be preventing the water flowing down as quickly and if I need to find some kind of air valve which may allow air out? As it stands, I have just put the waste hose into the sink next to the machine and that has let me at least use it for now. I appreciate any advice people can offer.

Question by TheBag   |  last reply


knex firing mechanism thingy

I didnt look around much so this may be old news... you can just delete this if it is the idea is that when you pull back and a little up the bolt pops out of the barrel and rests against the front of the chamber, until you push down on the hammer, which puts the bolt back in the barrel again :P if you make it with reds or grays they bend a bit much but it still works the problem is that theres no real way to make it bolt-action

Topic by sethex   |  last reply


heavy gauge metal tubing shaping question Answered

You know the "heavy" gauge metal tubing you see on swings and roundabouts in the public play parks? What is that called and how would I bend and shape it without having to go to an expensive, specialist shop, please? Pretty much I want to have a straight part about 3 metres followed by a curve of radius approx 1 metre and another 1m straight after the curve. Thank you for reading me and your time to reply.

Question by kevinhannan   |  last reply


How thick does a 17.5-inch round piece of plexi-glass need to be to support a 3 gallon fish tank?

I have a round wooden table with a 17.5 inch diameter (outer edge to outer edge).  However, the diameter of the recessed part of the table is 15.5". The 3 gallon fish tank will be centered over the recessed part of the table.  How thick does the plexi-glass need to be to hold the tank without bending or breaking?

Question by Debi M   |  last reply


Knex Pump action rail action gun trigger mech

I would like to make a KNEX pump action rail action gun but the trigger is driving me crazy do any of you know of a good trigger mech that would not interfere with the pump but still would hold the rail car in place and not bend the top rail.   if you have ideas or a trigger mech that you think would work please comment and tell me. Thanks everybody.  

Topic by sonic broom   |  last reply


IAC's Heavy knex Crossbow Review!!

Well here is a review of the cannon so that you know YOU NEED TO BUILD IT. Well here is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy9SxI0I3Gc . Next comes the review. PERFORMANCE range: 8/10 75 feet not angled about 90 angled a little. ROF: 5/10 The rate is good for a cannon like thing but for every shot I would say about 7 seconds or less with a lot of practice Reload time: 6/10 about 15 seconds COMFORT Handle: 7/10 good for a cannon but there are better Stock: 8/10 Its a good stock it supportive but not extremely comfortable Second hand placement: 6/10 I feel like my hand is stretched to far when I put it at the way front of the gun and when I put it on the barrel it bends LOOKS AND STRENGTHS Looks: 9/10 well its big so already its amazing and in my opinion it looks pretty good Barrel strength: 8/10 the barrel is really strong for rubberbands but it bends vertically Handle attachment: 10/10 I can lift the gun with only the handle and it is very heavy Bipod: 7/10 Strong but not portable as said by Mr.Muggle Bow: 9/10 Very strong period Overall this gun is like 9/10. That is off my opinion not by calculation Well I'm done so now you need to go build it.

Topic by sprout_less   |  last reply


rifle knex gun

Here is my version of the klirk magnum i modded it so it could hold more power it has a mag and every bit good knex builder dont need a instructable i know it doesnt has a shoulder piece but it doesnt need it please coment need to make it better and can anyone tell me what the hell a true trigger is couse i cant figure it out made my own versoin of a trigger and it works realy well you can put as mutch rubberbands on it as you want couse it wont bend or break thats what i like about it

Topic by T3453R   |  last reply


RAMSR

Say hello to RAMSR, the most efficient mag fed pin sniper to date. It has a rubber butt plate, a folding bipod, scope, true trigger, cheek rest, a shell ejecting system, and an internal magazine. it also has a pin guide and fake bolt action. the mag holds 7 red rods, or 4 red rods with shells. Shoots hard. (RAMSR= Reconaissance Advanced Master Sniper Rifle) Should I post? EDIT: I modded it so it almost never jams, and I fixed all of the problems with the shell system. I also gave it a better trigger. the pin bends too much for my liking. it has a pin guide. help?

Topic by rec0n   |  last reply


Rapid Arrow Firing System

It was only a very simple idea, just make a massive arrow holder and slide a rod through it.It shoots 13 arrows, with about the power of the v2.Problem was though...the massive amount of rubberbands made it bend all over the place; 13 times strings of 4... =52 which just doesn't work.It did shoot, but as you can see from the pictures...it was not very sturdy lolThat rod with the wheels on it equals a black rod O.oAnd before you ask....everything except the trigger is taken apart already, as I consider it failed.And ofcourse I don't sit still, building something new already =dMight make one again, but on a smaller scale.

Topic by Wicky   |  last reply


Information on DIY Electronics

Hey everybody, I really hope someone can help me. I'm PJ, a social work student that's organizing a sort of DIY electronics meeting in Belgium. By school policy, i have to write something in between an essay and a thesis and i'm doing it about DIY as a scene within subcultures. Now because DIY as a scene or culture is so enormous i'm writing it about DIY in electronics/hardware fiddling/hacking/modding/bending. Now what i'm trying to ask: Do you know any essays, thesisses, papers, books about DIY as a culture, scene, phenonemon?,... Not just a link to Wikipedia I need a base, where i can start from in writing this essay so i can explore DIY some more. Thanks a lot. PJ

Topic by Peach   |  last reply


Which paints work best on metal? Answered

I've become oddly obsessed with painting those little metal hair clips that snap open and closed. I began first just using nail polish. It's thick, but works well. I use a nail varnish to seal it, and they look awesome! But there's really not many options out there for nail polish, so I was wondering what other kinds of paint will adhere to the metal hair clips? Keep in mind the clips bend (slightly) when opened and closed. I'm currently experimenting with model-car enamel, which seems to be working. Any ideas? Also, what type of sealant should I use over top of whichever kind of paint that works on metal? ..Sorry if I'm confusing. It's like 4:30 in the morning. lol Thanks! LL

Question by lenalandmine   |  last reply


I want a circuit to close when I OPEN a glass jar ... Answered

I'm working on a project where I have a glass jar, and I want a circuit to close when I OPEN the glass. Need ideas on how I can solve that in clever ways...? I know how to program it in flash, but my current project is all hardware based, and I don't want to use a computer to solve it. I've tried using a photo cell, but for some reason it won't trigger on the circuit I'm circuitbending. I've used a photocell on another bend, and it worked there, but on this project I'm circuitbending one of those greeting cards where you can record your own voice, and it seems that it needs a good solid connection before it will trigger. Would greatly appreciate all tips. Addition: I need a solution that takes as little space as possible.

Question by mskogly   |  last reply


True trigger full auto/burst fire knex gatling gun

True trigger, allows control of firing rate. Vids show full auto and burst fire. *note* my motor is nearly out of batteries in the video, so on full auto it's rate of fire was pretty slow.******* Pic 3 & 4 - New and improved yellow rod firing gatling gun. Uses grey rod barrel and grey rod firing rams. Also because it is so huge, to prevent sagging in the support beam, I made a new support system which doesn't bend at all ( you can see how thick and straight it is), so it spins faster and steadier than before. Each bullet gets about 35+ feet. All thx to having more pieces.

Topic by Trauts   |  last reply


can i use permanent markers to decorate my acoustic guitar? Answered

I have an old acoustic guitar hanging around which is probably 20 years old or something like that. i was already thinking a long time about painting it, but i never had the time. now i have vacation and some spare time.  so what i did until this point is:  1 i took of the strings (don't worry about the neck bending because there wasn't much tension :P) 2 i sanded the entire body down i am planning of getting some white car paint or something like that and put on 2 or 3 layers, then when that's dried i want to draw some awesome drawings on it with the permanent markers (probably all black and white drawings) and maybe some stencil art. i hope you can help me with this question, all answers will be appreciated ps. sorry if my English isn't perfect because i'm from the Netherlands and i'm only 14..

Question by !revenge!   |  last reply


It is not advisable to copy the activities shown in this video.

The Modified Toy Orchestra have a philosophy of performing everything live with a collection of re-purposed children’s toys.., converting abandoned playthings into exotic new musical instruments, and then exploring the latent potential and surplus value inherent in these liberated circuits. Guided by this hidden world they seek to make a form of music devoid of personal narrative or autobiography, instead they ask bigger questions about our relationship with “the next new gadget” the desire for the constant upgrade, and the possibilities for problem solutions hidden from our gaze by perceptual habit. The result of this on going investigation has been called cinematic, dark, joyful and life affirming. It is rare to hear an electronic live performance that has no midi, no sampling, no synthesizers, no laptops, in fact no conventional instruments of any kind. MTO have live dates coming up: 8th September at Birmingham Town Hall 10th September at Manchester Bridgewater Hall Hey, what about the title of the topic? Oh, that's from the band's appearance on the BBC website.  After all, these AA batteries are dangerous... Freeno & Olaf from Modified Toy Orchestra on Vimeo.  

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


Identifying Sliders and Knobs on circuit board M-audio Axiom 49

Hello there, I broke 4 of my sliders of my M-audio Axiom 49 and bended 5 Precision rotary knobs. I tried to order new parts at M-audio but they discontinued the production of the 1ste generation of M-audio Axiom 49 keyboard controllers and they cannot deliver the goods. So opened this sucker up and just googled Pots B10k and to my amazement I found a website with all these Precision Potentiometers. http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&N;=4294759271+16330845+1323043 http://http://www.alibaba.com/catalogs/--400502------------351-4333 I mean 1000, I went looking for what I needed. The only problem is everything looks the same, I don't see any part numbers that could identify the parts on my board. So I was thinking I should ask some one who has and eye for this and is much smarter than me :) Can you help me identify the type of Precision Potentiometers on the boards you see on the pictures I posted.-->(sorry for the bad quality)

Topic by Martron   |  last reply


Physics puzzle games- Auditorium, World of Goo and Crayon Physics

I really like puzzle games. I've played two that are really addictive and beautifully made, and found another that looks great.AuditoriumAuditorium has a free on line demo. I've played through the levels a few times. The full game hasn't been published yet.The screen has a stream of light particles flowing into it. You have one, or more, buttons that will affect the path of the particles: like one that bends the light stream to the right, or one that pulls it into a vortex. You move the buttons around to steer the stream into boxes that are scattered around the screen. There are many particles in the stream, and by careful placement of the buttons, you can split them into different paths. When you hit the boxes with light particles a new group of instruments join a symphony you hear. The goal is to get all of the instruments playing.Some levels have areas that will change the color of the light particles as they pass. Some of the music boxes are different colors, and you will have to route the light particles through the color changer before you send them it into the box. Try it out, the free online demo will make it very clear. I didn't even look at the directions. It's easy to find your way as you go. I love a game like that.PlayAuditorium.comWorld of GooIn World of Goo, you have to stick living gooey balls together to make lattice and build some kind of structure (tower, bridge, rope, ...) that allows the gooey balls to reach the end of a pipe that sucks them up. The Gooey structures are not stiff. If you don't build your structure carefully it will bend and can collapse under its own weight. It is a 2D game with a comic book style to the graphics. There is also a level designer and an online community where you can share new levels. I haven't experimented with these yet - I'm still working through the levels that came with the game.There is a downloadable demo for both PC and Mac. There is also a WII version for sale.It is drawn and designed beautifully. Totally addictive.2dboy.comCrayon PhysicsI haven't played this yet but it looks really great.The graphics look like they were drawn by a 5 year old with a box of crayons. When you get to a level, it presents a drawn scene with a star and a ball (it's actually an apple. Must be a tribute to Newton) somewhere in it. You have to draw some kind of mechanism, or ramp, or some objects, or... As you are drawing, the objects develop mass.Everything you draw then reacts with gravity. You have to harness the momentum you get from everything dropping to the ground in order to push, throw, drop or guide the ball so it hits the star.Look at the video it is self explanatory. CrayonPhysics.com

Topic by SFHandyman   |  last reply


Just 24 more hours..

And this week is over.. I'm about to whine about life, so back out now if you like. What a hell of a week, I started going to UCF monday. Now, admittedly, I'm happy about that, even though it's terribly stressful. But that's not the problem, really. No, would you believe that monday I bit into a brownie at work and cracked a molar on a nut? So my first day of school was accompanied by horrible pain. Followed by a dental crown on tuesday. Yeah that's not that bad, so I'll add in that my wife's truck needed a new differential on thursday (somewhat more expensive than a calculus book). And today?The washing machine broke. Spent three hours tearing it down, it's a goner. Leaking pump, with horrible grinding noise, broken balance strut, and no power to the motor. Only six years old too. And worst of all i didn't win the explicative deleted bike. That's an almost $2500 outlay this week for broken things.. Oh yeah one more really irritating thing, I finished up my A.A. and received my diploma this week, in a big flat envelope stamped all over "Do not bend", which the mailman folded in half and stuffed in the mailbox. I'll probably read this in the morning and decide I'm a self absorbed SOB and delete it. ;-)

Topic by Tool Using Animal   |  last reply


Decimator Crossbow (v7)

Well I finally got some more pieces, more still coming; this enabled me to build something bigger =dThis crossbow(more like cannon, now) has the following specs:Ammo: 1 Standard arrow, which needs to be ductaped other wise torn to shreds.Weight: 4,5 kilo's (9,92 pounds)Range: Not tested outside, will beat the Reaper and the Blockhead for sure.Rubberbands: 32, 8 strings of 4 ( these may still be increased as it shows no bending yet.)Power: Just look at 2nd picture....should explain a lot.Trigger: Same as on the Blockhead, some big improvements on it though.(Surprised about how power much it can take...)Sturdiness: Seems close to unbreakable lol...Without realizing..I also made a very good scope on it o.oI had a purple+blue 3d connector as arrow tip and when I fired on my cardboard box, it made a huge tear...and my ears were ringing like from an explosion O.o'Well this monster has bad points:Need a long/strong left arm if you are right-handed, because this thing is heavy as hell.Cannot fire without trigger.Every arrow needs ductape otherwise connector gets torn off.Also I gonna try and say...:I think this may very well be the most powerful ranged k'nex weapon on this site at the moment.

Topic by Wicky   |  last reply


Oodammo Pistol Contest

This is the contest me and TD were/are organizing. LOADING                                                                                                        MeZak: 4/5. Very, very quick. OodAst3.6: 4/5. Not quite as quick as the MeZak, but it makes up for it in comfort. TBOS: 1/5. Truly agonizing. EAP: 3/5. Not bad. Tougher and more time consuming than the OodAst and MeZak, but much better than the TBOS. STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY / DURABILITY                                                   (Note, I'm rating according to how "Bendy" they feel.) MeZak: 4/5. Really sturdy. Barely any bend. OodAst: 4/5. Really sturdy, but again, just barely less sturdy than the MeZak. But not so much as to lower it a whole point. TBOS: 2/5. Only 3 layers. Bendy, bendy, bendy. EAP: 4/5. 5 layers, so it's obviously pretty good. RANGE                                                                                                             (The first range is with 2 #64's, the second is with the maximum amount. Measurement was averaged out of 5 shots. I used Google Earth, but I promise I didn't cheat.) MeZak: 4/5. 39 feet. 63 feet. (Max. of 6 bands.) OodAst. 3/5. 44 feet. 52 feet. (Max. of 4 bands.) TBOS. 3/5. 41 feet. 41 feet. (Max. of 2 bands.) EAP: 2.5/5. 37 feet. 37 feet. (Max. of 2 bands.) FINAL SCORES                                                                                              MeZak: 12/15. #1 OodAst: 11/15. #2 TBOS: 6/15. #4 Ouch EAP: 9.5/15. #3 So, congrats MeZak, you win. (Though, I'd like to point out, this is based pretty much entirely on performance, not personal opinion.)  

Topic by travw   |  last reply


Mod of Katarukito's Knex slingshot prototype

This is a modification of the sling shot prototype made by Katarukito's (I hope i spelt that right) knex prototype sling shot knex gun. It can pierce cardboard at fifteen feet away with one band and twenty to thirty feet away with two rubberbands (UNSHARPENED BULLET) I modified the barrel with a new barrel, that may look ugly but if you want i can take off the blue and red connectors that make the humps/ scales of what i call... Dragon Head Knex Gun DHKG well i didn't intend on putting those there but it turned out as a dragon and well, i went with it... the barrel doesn't bend and when or if i do post it, all credits go to Katarukito! Enjoy! Sorry for the blurry pictures it was night time and i had to pee like a race horse... Pic 1: The bullet - A red rod or tan rod with tan clip Pic 2: Front view (DRAGON HEAD) - Front of the gun where rubberbands go Pic 3: Another front view (Barrel) - Front of the gun better picture Pic 4: A view of the back (Part of Kataturi's knex gun prototype moded) - View of barrel and handle Pic 5: Better picture of back (Katarukito's prototype still able to be seen, just modified) Pic 6: Full gun - (the full DHKG) - Aprox. Two to two and half feet long ~ Pic 7: A view of the gun loaded - Gun is loaded Pic 8: A view of the gun loaded from the front Pic 9: Back of the gun with sights

Topic by mrbox   |  last reply


TBAG

Alright, well here's the gun I was talking about in my other thread. I'm doing pretty good, I actually got you guys a thread out the day after making the weapon. The name? It stands for TheDunkis' Bad A** Gun. Obviously, it doesn't mean worth crud. I just made it work out so it'd have the acronym TBAG =P.  It's a rather basic weapon. It ties with the BAW for my favorite weapon based around simplicity. I decided to scrap the removable magazine idea and just make it breach load. You can chamber a round directly so you can fire it like a single shot or you can continue to force rounds in to load the magazine. It has a charging "handle" in the side of the stock. And then of course I have the optional sight that I made and never wanted to take apart. Y'know how hard it was getting the little suckers to bend into the connectors like that? The main feature of this gun though is its ability to fire multiple rounds of a new ammo I've been experimenting with. They're not made of K'nex. Rather, they're pen ink cartridges from those bigger, more expensive kind that I can't remember the name of. They're almost the exact same diameter as K'nex rods. They're rather lightweight but, like oodammo, the majority of the weight is focused on the front. It's also somewhat pointy so it's just a tad more aerodynamic and fun to shoot into objects =P. They're very accurate and stable without the use of fins or anything so they get decent range. Obviously I wouldn't fire them at a living thing but it did give me the idea of using some sort of foam armor or something so that you could keep track of hits and such. Anyways, I like the feel of it. It's rather balanced and compact enough without being awkward to handle. I'm probably going to tape the handle. Expect a video tomorrow. I'm not sure when I'll post but might do it this weekend if I have the time.

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


(failed) Jackal v3 -UPDATED-

Ok guys, the project has officially been declared a flop. Too many issues with the shells. Sorry guys.UPDATEI have fixed the bottom rail on the gun, it doesnt bend anymore, and I have also added some extra supports to the barrel. I also modded the handle for more comfort (I moved a blue rod on it). The gun fires around 50-60 feet with 2 rubberbands.Ok, so this is the shell ejecting gun I was talking about. It has a sorta-new barrel (it ejects shells in a pistol barrel, rather than a tan lock), but yeah it has tons of resemblance to the Jackal v2. This time, the magazine is fixed. Sorry folks, I tried to make a removable version, but the result was a structurally unstable knex gun. But at least its new (may not look like it, but you cant judge a book from its cover)I may or may not post, I still have to run more tests on it. I cant find another rubberband so Im screwed for range tests at the moment. It does perform decently with one rubberband, with ranges between 15-20 feet. As for shell ejection, If you band the pusher right, it should eject shells from the top perfectly.One major con that the gun has right off the bat is the fact that it needs 2 broken orange connectors. The reason for this is because using the purple connectors made the ammo fall out of the barrel, and using non-modified orange connectors interfered with the shell ejection.Now I intended to add a slide to the gun, but the slide I built was structurally weak and didnt work at all. Oh well.The part that users will have to learn the most is the loading and firing part. If you are loading the gun for the first time, you must pull the firing pin back first, then put all shells in the gun. Then, fire as normal. Now, when you shoot your last round, do not eject the shell. Instead, take the pusher out, then add more shells to the gun. Then fire as normal.If you are wondering what makes the shells, its just 3 gray spacers wrapped in tape. Credit goes to the dunkis for that.

Topic by DJ Radio   |  last reply


Jollex' DASH knex slingshot review

Jollex made a new free-flying slingshot, which was capable of shooting oodammo, and cannon ammo (yellow rod with a red con on the business end), and the trigger held the bullet, not the bands. I hadn't made many of them before so I decided to give it a 'shot'(:D). Body strenght:10/10, it has a very good crossing pattern through the whole body, that makes it extremely strong.  comfort: 7/10, the stock could have been much better, although it doesn't take away from the overall comfort, it could have been a lot comfier. The handle gets 5 of those points though, because he did a good job going out of his way to make it even comfier. Trigger  Locking mech strength: 10/10, could hold 15 64#s and then some, and you only need 3. Overall mech: 10/10, purely the fact that it was a sliding trigger could have got that, but, its a sear, and I don't really count sears as sliding triggers, but this goes even further and puts a semi ratchet at the back of the sear, which was bloody brilliant, so it deserves it. Power Bullet force:10/10, oodammo can punch through the cardboard like a blue rod punches through paper, and cannon ammo is even more powerful than oodammo.  Range:12/10, well if 90 feet got 9/10, then you can see how powerful this is (slanted of course). Bow  Strength: 9/10, it bends (using black rods) a bit with 3 #64s, but the way the bands are put on is really good, so you don't need to unhook anything, and there is not many places to get the bands tangled up in. Reloading ease: 10/10, its really easy to get the bands to cock back, and its not hard on your fingers at all. Tactics F4A attack: 1/5, running in with this singleshot is the worst thing you can do period.   F4A defence: 3/5, you better have a good sidearm, because if you miss... and you need a good base aswell. Team attack: 3/5 as long as you have someone further up then you who you can support, but don't be the one to run in headfirst. Its silent aswell, and I know a lot of people like to think they are stealthy, but truth is most of you ain't. So you have to be good.   Team defense: 5/5, finally the area it shines on. Huge range, silent, hole up in a tree somewhere with a few splodies, the Dash, and some cookies. Perfect for picking off enemy scouts and anyone who tries to get further. -------OVERALL: 90000000000/10000000000. Or, 9/10, or 9 tenths, or 4.5/5, or 90% positive. Instructable can be found here.

Topic by ~Aeronous~   |  last reply


Make SF Meeting

This past Sunday I went to the Make SF meeting graciously hosted by Tech Shop in Menlo Park. I unfortunately do not have names and/or links to work relevant to the presenters, but I will try to give an overview of what I saw as best I can.The first presenter showed a musical interface he made with a laser pointer and a photocell that altered a track of music to correspond with the disturbance of the surface of the water. He told of how he embedded many such bowls in a table and had the laser pointers shining straight down into them from the ceiling so that it seemed as though the water itself was changing the music. He used it a party the previous weekend (side note: I never get invited to parties nearly as cool).Followed him was a man that created a device to interface with a computer as a USB HID. In short, it pretended to be a keyboard, mouse or joystick and then you could send it commands from a micro controller. He had his device installed in a model plane and based on accelerometer readings used it to control a flight simulator. Next there was a man from Google who showed the low-cost Arduino based glowing orb that he was working on based on the Arduino Orb Build Warden. This was presented as one possible solution to have widespread visual indication for monitoring the status of their ongoing projects. Presenter #4 promised not to have anything quite as high tech and passed around a copper bracelet made using copper wiring and traditional cold forge methods. He then spent the rest of the time talking about how he welded the ends of the bracelet with a tig welder made from a microwave much like this one. And even though he promised not to have anything technical to show, he went into the finer points of building your own microwave welder in regards to transformer modification and the importance of finding a reliable metal foot pedal to control the weld. Lastly, someone came from Shape Lock and demonstrated his "Ultra-High Molecular Weight Low Temperature Thermoplastic." Or in other words, you stick it in a pot of water heated to 160 degrees for a few minutes, take it out and bend it into any shape you want, let it harden for a few more minutes and you're good to go. You can use it to quickly and easily make all kinds of high-strength custom shapes and fasteners. It is actually very cool. However, remember, don't stick it in your mouth (or anywhere else!) because albeit non-toxic it will lock your jaw shut and good luck getting that back to 160 degrees. Oh... I should also mention that the meeting was organized and hosted by the legendary Andrew Milmoe.And that summarizes what I saw and heard.The next meeting will most likely be the first Sunday in March and you can get more info on the official Make SF site. Also, there will be a Make SF social gathering next Thursday at Mars Bar in San Francisco (7th and Brannan).It starts around 7 PM and there is rumored to be a special robotic guest attending. (if anyone has more info on any of the presenters please let me know)

Topic by randofo   |  last reply


Tap water often quite dark and with a strong chemical smell - what to do?

I don't ask for much help but this time I am reaching the end of my knowledge and patience with landlord and water authorities.That's the story so far:When I moved in I did the usual checks and tests but of course did not pay too much attention to what comes out of my taps.After a few weeks I noticed that the drain in bathroom sink seems to rust on the enamel....Easy wipe with some cleaner fixed it but since the actual drain is made of brass I started to wonder what caused the discoloration in the first place.A bit later I had my niece here and while she had a shower I realised that I only get very little hot water from any other tap in the house.Landlord stated that no one would need hot water from two outlets at one and refused to have it checked out - WTF??Paid for plumber myself and the result was not good.The hot water system is connected "open" was his answer after half an hour of messing around.For the lame man it means that whenever there is a pressure difference between hot and cold water it will go through the hot water system.Did not fully get this so he showed me in the laundry.Open the hot water a bit and it runs out fine, open the seperate cold water tap and the hot water stops.This even worked when turning on the cold water in the kitchen.The water is able to go back into the hot water system through the outlet much easier than through the inlet side.And to top it off, the current install basically turns the hot water system into a giant bypass valve :(Paid a few bucks extra so I would get that same explanation in writing for my landlord a few days later.The next and growing problem is the chemical smell.If highly chlorinated then my aquarium test kit would show this and recommend to use a water conditioner when using tap water to top the tank up.And it does not really smell like any chlorinated water I know.Definately a chemical cleaning or sanitation smell though.The plumber could not do more than basic tests so I contacted my water supplier.To my surprise they were happy to send someone out for free.Of course they only cared about their product and all tests were limited to the tap right next to the water meter.Pressure ok.Water clearity ok.Chlorine levels next to zero."Harmful substances test" came back negative as well.It was recommended that I have the plumbing under the house inspected for the water color changes and smells/bad taste.And I had to admit that what came out of the front tap really looked and smelled fine.Work slowed me down for a while and the problem only came back to my mind when I came back from a weekend trip.Needed something to drink quickly so I filled a glass from the tap.It came out like from a rusty bucket.Definately of brownish color and the chemical smell worse then ever.Had to let the water run for about 15 minutes to get something out I dared to drink.Installed a water filter a few days later and though all is good now.Pre-filter, 0.5 micron filter and then a cartridge with activate carbon.Am a single and the unit was meant to be for a busy family.Should have been good for well over 5000 liters of water.I don't really use much in the kitchen for drinking and cooking purposes so I guesstimated I need new filters every 12 to 18 months at worst.They lasted less than 4 weeks before the water came out in drops instead or running....Cutting the fliters open revealed that both pre- and fine filter were fully blocked and brown.Provided all documents and evidence to my landlord but again was told there is no issue and the house is just old :(As a last resort I tried to get under house yesterday to check the pipes itself.Couldn't get all the way in due to all the pipes from the ducted heating system.But I found a bad mess of literally all bad plumbing skills.From the water meter a just finger thick copper pipe goes under the house.This goes into some 1/2" galvanised steel pipe and it look the main way of sealing the connection was some glue or resin around the screw fitting.The same old gal but thinner pipes go close to where the connections for water go.There the "plumber" again used screw on press fittings and glue to connect to thin copper pipes.Hot water is designed the same way, one big gal pipe straight through and then thin copper pipes connected to it.I am not a plumbing expert but I do know that copper and steel won't mix if water is involved.Assuming the hot water system is affected in the same way then this giant battery is eating away the thick gal pipes while supplying me with all the byproducts of this galvanic reaction.The landlord won't budge unless I take legal action and around here you would want to do this as a tennant.Right now I have a long garden hose from the front tap going through my kitchen window :(At least I get usable drinking and cooking water this way, my fish no loger suffer losses after the topping up the water from this hose either...But this can't go on like this.Once the gal pipes start to leak the landlord is required to act but not before that.And chances are these thick pipes will last a few more years before failing :(If i wouldn't know better then I would say at some stage the ducted heating was replaced and to have more room all but the main gal pipes were removed.All copper pipes are the flexible ones and are bend to follow the floor and wooden beams.What are my real life options to fix this water problem?A set of filters ever 4 or 6 weeks sets me back close to 120 bucks each time, hence the garden hose :(What sort of tests can I make to determine what is actually created in my water that causes the smell, taste and discoloration?By the way: a simple rust test available to check for corroded steel pipes only shows traces of rust even if the water is of a slight brownish color.Replacing the piping myself is not just far over my budget but also not allowed for a tenant.And somehow I still wonder if there is more hiding in the walls but could not get close enough to see if the opper pipes actually connect to the taps or just another piece of old steel pipe.Apart from the obvious, what are the dangers of having steel and copper pipes mixed like this for my health?

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Damaged disc(s) in the lower back - what to do and what not ;)

I got diagnosed with a damaged L5 and L6 disc in my lower back about 8 years ago and I thought writing about my experience might helps others facing the same problems. Keeping your back straight when lifting or moving heavy things was a thing I already learned and followed during my school times and as you might have guessed it helped to keep my back healthy - at the expense of my knees... But the knees are a different story, today I want to help you understand lower back problems caused by damaged or bulging discs and how this will affect your life. For me it began with a little shock. One day I got out of bed, wanted to grab something I dropped and got stuck half way up. Knowing that there are some nerves that can cause the same issue and that a simple injection will fix me I called a cab to be dragged laying down on the back seat to my GP. As you might have guessed his diagnosis was a bit worse than what I wanted to hear... Many painful hours and some scans later it was confirmed that my L5 and L6 disk have collapsed on one side and started to push on the nerves next to it. Funny side not that I never really checked was that my doc said not everyone has a L6 disk... Anyways, as with most first "accidents" involving your lower back the so called recovery was long and painful. Sure the painkillers help to numb the worst, the anti inflammatory stuff covers some pain too but actually I did not want the full pain free package deal. Pain is the bodies way to let you know something is wrong, so I kept the pain medication at a level where I got that information when making a wrong move... The first 6 months I was literally confined to my bed, the shower and the toilet. I tried to keep a position with the least amount of pain for as long as possible and for obvious reasons was not too happy that my body not only required food intake but also the disposal of the waste products - getting out of bed and onto the toilet meant experiencing huge amounts of pain every time. But after those 6 months I started to adjust, to the pain as well as what my limited body was now capable of in terms of movement. Needless to say that all this time of not doing anything really meant my scale started to scream tripple digets at me one day... Luckily around the same time my pain levels went to a level that allowed my to walk around 500-600 at slightly slower speeds than normal before the pain got too much. My doctor also got quite concerned about my blood work and body weight recommending to loose a lot if I every intent to get back to a more normal life. So I started to walk several times a day, no matter how bad the weather was, just a bit up and down the street. The distance got longer, the fitness a bit better and the pain levels a bit lower too. Using my old weight lifting belt to keep the back supported helped me a lot during these times, especially when driving or doing housework. During those times I was still on 6-8 panedine forte tablets (paracetamol and codein) plus 2-4 tablets of 20mg oxicontin and not happy about the last anyway. Despite the added levels of pain I started to reduce the level of oxicontin and started to exercise more. My focus was getting the core muscles stronger and to get better support for my back. Also started riding my bike again, although I had to replace it for a bigger model to allow me a more upright position with less stress on the lower back. The kilos started to tumble very slowly but I was already quite proud when I got bak to 90kg. :( Good thing was that I got motivation to continue as every kg I lost and every little bit more on distance I got out of my walks and rides without getting too painful also meant that my average pain level went down too. Two years after it all happened I got rid of the oxicontin completely and reached the 80kg mark. My doc was happy too, my blood work looking good but of course he still suggested to loose a few more kg. Being able to move around again also meant being able to work again and with that came more food, less exercise and a lot more stress. I did manage to hold my 80kg but after about 6 months or working I noticed my back problems started to limit me again. My back belt covered for me and I was able to keep going a while longer but in the end I got hit by another attack on my back. The diagnosis was not good at all as now on top of the pain goind through the back and leg I also hab numbness and a feeling like ants crawl over the leg and chew on it every few mm. As with most lower back "revenges" this one only needed strong pain killers for a few weeks until I was back to something more normal in terms of pain and movability. Sadly the ongoing side effects did not go away the way they did the first time. This meant especiall finding the right position to sleep with the least amount of pain was becoming a nightmare on it's own. Either you got pins and needles keeping you awake, you lost your feeling in the leg to the point where it becomes useless or the pain in the back is just stabbing you all the time. Starting some projects here on Instructables kept my mind busy and gave me some welcome distraction from the daily routine. Eventually I manged to find a job again that allowed me to have enough different movements with only a bit of lifting so things started get back to normal. My doc put me on some amitriptyline to help with the pain at night and although it took some time to get used to the stuff it really started to help after about two weeks. The job was only for a fixed term but it gave me back some confidence that not all is bad or lost. Life went on and I actually manged to get down to just 75kg and only used some painkillers once or twice a week if it was really bad. Then, a few weeks back I started to notice that the top of my foot and the outside of my leg felt different to touch, especially in the shower with some brush or rough sponge. Not being happy already I agreed to some new scans to check if the discs started to cause problems or if the nerves are just inflamed. You might have guessed already, the scan confirmed that my two discs desintegrated further putting more pressure on the already suffering nerves. With the "help" of some quite strong anti inflammatory stuff, cortisone and other meds my doc managed to get me back to "normal" but he also informed me that this won't last forever. The current outcome (without surgery but more on that later on) I have two choices to keep going: a ) I continue with pain killers and other meds to keep the problems at bay. b ) I limit myself to basically not doing anything involving the movemnt of my lower back, keep to a strict calory intake and hope for the best. The first option won't do me any good in the long run except liver, kidney and digestive problems. The second option will allow me some sort of a normal life at the expense of never finding a job to support me again. So once again we soldier on knowing that it will only make things worse as giving up and relying on social services is no option for me. Hoping that you might just had your first encounter with lower back injuries and pain I will give some advise on the things that helped my most so that you might not have to suffer as much I did and still do. So read on please... Diagnosed with a damaged or bulged disc in the lower back - what does it acutally mean? If you check all the available images of the human skelleton you will quickly notice one thing: Our lower back is not really straight and not designed to carry a lot weight when it is put on the wrong way or direction. Noone with a sane mind would use a support beam shaped like that but the human body adapted to this problem caused by changing from using all four limbs to walking on just two legs. The muscles and tendons in our back work in such a way that they support the fragile construction of discs and bones that keep us upright. Sadly modern life, personal decisions and only too often a busy work shedule prevent us from using our body the wa we should. Be it too much lifting, being far too short for your weight or simply laziness the factors causing our muscle to degrade are too many to count. But once you are in the worst pain you ever felt and your doc tells you that there are damaged discs you suddenly wish you had it all done differently years ago - trust me, I have been there and I have done it ;) Or it might be like in my case that a healthy and fit person just cracks one or more discs for no obvious reason. Either way it means you have to change your life to be able to keep going. Pain killers help to ignore the problem and pretend all is good but they should be used with great care as most are highly addictive and the long term side effects are no fun either. The one thing you must never forget is although being a life sentence it must not mean you will be crippled forever! What can I do once it happened to help the pain and my sanity? Nerve pain is one of the worst pains there is and there are only two more or less working medications to deal with it. The first meds are opiates to literally numb the pain but due to source of the pain very high levels are required until the body adapted to deal with the wrong pain information. The second group of meds that offer help and that are often used together with pain killers are old sty anti depressants like the try-cyclic (was that right?) amitriptyline. Back in the days they were not really good for the advertised job but one of the common side effects was how they worked on the pain centers of the brain. In much lower dosages as used to treat depressions these meds help the brain to deal with the pain caused by the damaged or pinched nerves. As a long term solution they should be prefered over opiates so that the strong pain killers are only taken when really needed. If you are anything like me than not getting enough sleep over weeks on end will take a toll on your mood. So being able to sleep at least a few hours in one go is a real thing to aim for unless you prefer to harm your body with pain killers. What is there to help with the pain so you can sleep? I know that you now already think you tried it all and that nothing good comes out of here but keep reading as you might be surprised... The first thing that jumps into mind when it comes to sleeping is a bed - be it you by yourself or with a partner. And here also is the first point to improve! In many countries a bed for two persons has one bad feature: A single mattress! Any movement from the person next to you is transfered more or less onto your body - you don't want that! So if you own a big bid that you share with someone think about investing into a bed with seperated matresses and support frames. That brings us to the mattress itself. A lot of people think being soft and flexible is a prefered thing, not so much if you have back problems. You want enough support to keep the back straight without everything feeling like you sleep on wooden floorboards. Keep in mind though that when changing from soft matress to something much firmer you will need to adjust. Really the best option is to seek professional advise in a bedding studio or similar. And no, you don't have to go to the most expensive place to buy a mattress, you just try them out, get expert advise and use that new knowledge to find a suitable mattress to fit the budget. With no offence meant: If you are over the normal weight you really want to loose the excess and that means selecting a new matrress on your weight goal and not on your current weight! It is also good to have adjustable supports under the mattress itself, this way you choose a thinner and bit softer mattress but still get the firmness your back requires - again seeking proffessional advise on the right combinations is highly recommended here! Ok, your bed is sorted but still there is that nagging pain in certain positions or the tingling in your leg preventing you to go to sleep. Believe it or not but what you do before you go to bed affects how you feel when you hit the sack. So sitting like a bag full of water in front of your TV until just manage to crawl into bed won't do you any good. Same for having your dinner and hour or two before bedtime... What does help is to move your body and to burn a few kalories! If it helps you use a weight lifting belt but just a walk around the block with a little bit of bending and flexing will get the tension out of muscles. A nice partner giving you a proper massage might help too but I doubt you will get one every night ;) And before you start to complain: Yes, I know there are times where simply can't do any exersise as you will be happy to make it to the toilet or to make some dinner. For those times and especially during times of experiencing higher than normal pain level ther is something you can do to ease the pain. Some doctors will tell you but a lot of them wont: Cold actually helps to numb the pain and the symptoms like tingling, pins and needles or the constant stabbing when you made a slightly wrong move. But you need to apply the cold in the right way to get the benefit! The key here is timing. Using real ice in a suitable wrapper, so no vegetables or meat, you apply the cold where the damage is - not where the pain is! You want to cool down the area around the damaged discs for about 5 to max 10 minutes. Put the icepack back and repeat every hour! Nothing will happen after the first two or three round but then you will notice improvement - how much depends on the individual and extend of the damage of course. When I have bad days I usually start around mid-day and keep going every hour until either the pain is gone or it is time to drag myself to bed. The worst you can do is o apply heat! A warm (not hot!) bath can help to ease some muscular tension but hot packs or heat lamps will make your pain get worse quickly. Just imagine and inflammation somehwere else, the area is already hot and painful so you really don't want to add more heat, do you? ;) What can be done to keep mobile and improve? As said earlier the key is support for the damaged areas and of course a limitation in movements that put additional stress on the damaged dics - this includes weight, be it from your own body in terms of excess fat or simply be lifting things! You will have times of no pain and where you think you are 20 years younger again but never use that as an excuse to think your discs have improved! Once damaged they stay damaged and everything putting more stress on you dsic(s) will make things worse. A friend of mine loves to play golf - if you have back problems you want to find a different hobby! Coming from three digits I can tell you without being offensive in any way that being fat means having problems that you don't want to add to your list caused by a bad back! So like it or not you really need to loose all the excess you can find wobbling around your body! For me every single kg I lost was a step forward to being more fit and being able to more things for longer before my pain got too much. And no, there is no excuse for keeping those kilos if are able to leave the bed for more than a few hours. Turst me, you will feel better, need far less medication and like yourself much better once the benfits of less weight kick in! Exercise is the key to getting your life back to a more or less normal level! If you are a "first offender" than you have a good chance that a change of habbit and maybe job will make sure it stays a single incident and that you can have a pain free life after the initial recovery! Getting a higher core strenght and overall fitness level helps your body to heal but most importantly gives you the option to gain muscles where needed to support your back. You might think there is nothing you can do if you are in pain and can't really move anyway but if you do then you are wrong. I am not a personal trainer but I found a lot of ways to use my muscles without using my back for it... There is enough info on the web for exercise methods without any training gear and if you think "really hard" you might notice you can use a lot of positions to exercise your arms and legs without stressing you back ;) And even for the back you can do good without damage: If you lay flat on your belly you just slightly lift your arms and legs off the ground - this will need the support of the muscles in lower back! No need to actuall lift anything high, just enough to only slightly bend your back up - you might not even notice any bending at all. What you don't want is exercise like running, jogging or even contact sports, really nothing that might force your back to move more than what is possible without stressing your discs... Better fitness and more strenght means you will get better flexibility and movablity but never let that fool you into thinking the damage is gone! I can not stress enough than even if you don't need medication and feel fine a single wrong move can make all null and void! What are the options if despite loosing weight and excercise my pain is not going away or syptoms get worse? Well, we can ignore it, we can hope it all goes away but the sad reality for most is that sooner or later you reach the point where the damage is too much too handle. The first one to tell you that your lower back is now due for a pit stop is your foot. The pain might be more than what you ever experienced the pins and needles might drive you mad but as long as it just that you are fine, really :( For me it was during some light gradening when I got my "first hit" so to say. I brushed it off thinking I tripped over something that got kicked away while I struggled to keep my balance. A few days later I noticed that I had to put some extra efford to prevent my toes from scraping the floor while walking. It was there when I also realised that most of the feeling on top of my foot was gone. Same story for the outside of my calf by the way... For me, thanks to a non working medical system and no private health cover the story ends here... Since you might have more luck: Modern medicine has gone a long way when it comes to minimal invasive operations and they are the key to performing operations that otherwise would be impossible or require months of recovery. For the "treatment" of damaged discs in the lowest part of the spinal area the old conventional treatment was to fuse the bones together using some steel or titanium rods. To give the patient relief the dmaged disc was more or less mutilated to free the damaged nerve(s). Several weeks of bed rest and great loss in movement was the price to pay for less pain. Today we are much further and can use micro instruments to perform operations deemed impossible only a few years ago. One of the operations with the greatest and fastest recovery rates is actually quite smart if you think about it: A small portion of bone is removed to give more room for the nerve and to aid in the healing - without fusing the bones! The next step is remove the part of the disc that is bulging out - without removing the strong support layers around it, only the mashed up bits are taken away. The patient is literally pain free ( from the back pain) right after the operation. Healing takes about 2-3 weeks but by then even the pain from the cut bones will be gone. Some health insurers see these operations as a means to get a person back to work and into a normal life, so they support it. Others use simple math and decide pain killers are cheaper... In any case you should seek professional advice from your doc and health care provider before it is too late! Diagnosed and operated early can mean you get the option to have an almost normal life again, or at least a few years of being able to enjoy life much more than before the operation. There are of course risks involved and an opration might not be an option for every case but knowing your options and what form of treatment might be available for you can be reall life changing... Ok, but what's the worst that can happen to me if a simple operation is no longer an option? One of the first things you will notice after loosing control and feeling for your foot is a more or less contant need to go the toilet. Despite having an empty bladder or just using the toilet minutes ago you can develop the feeling that you really must go the toilet again. Sadly this is only the beginning... If things get worse you can loose control over your bladder and bowel. Simply put it means you no longer control the muscular tension required to keep you vital openings closed when required. Usually at this point your doctor will recommend to operate one way or the other. For you, if affected, this means you have to decide between the risk of an operation that might only last for a few months or years or wearing adult nappies... If you already had one or more operation or the damage to the disc(s) is too severe it can mean that there is no other option but to fuse the bones into place to prevent further damage and allow for some healing. But trust me, for your doc to even consider an operation you need to loose all the weight you can! What are my limitations after having my back bones fused together? Well, as it reads you will be fused together, meaning you level of movement will be severly limited. It also means you beep all the time at the airport security or when entering a court or other place with metal detectors - but that is the least of the worries I guess... The main problem after such operations is getting back to a life as normal as possible. You get a lot of help in rehab and will learn what you can and can't do, plus of course how to keep you fit despite these limits. Some people cope really good with the new limitations but others struggle a lot. This especially true if before the person was really active and doing a lot in terms of sport and outdoor activities. Learning to adapt to the changes allows you have many more years without too much pain or limitations. Sure, Golf is out of the question, playing soccer or riding a normal bike too but life goes on and being a part of it is always better than just looking at it through your bedroom window ;) In any case giving up should not be an option for you! No matter how bad it looks when the pain is too much, there are always more good days than bad days ahead of you! Go ahead, share your experience with back pain, what you do keep going and handle the pain. Share you information about what treatments helped you the most and share how you recovered to where you are now. Be an inspiration for those facing what we already went through! Real back pain based on nerve damage will only be understood by someone who experienced it - what did you do to make the people around you understand it? Whatever helped you might help someone wha just started to learn how to deal with damaged discs and back pain, so sharing is caring! ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Zombie RPG / D&D Style Game

For ZSDW: I've been in the zombie hype for awhile, (about a year ago,) and after finishing a couple of Zplans, I decide it would be fun to kill some zombies with dice and statistics. Alas, this is quite the beta, and it generally uses d6's, as well as some skewed grammar and stats. First things first. You are not a specified character. You have no character sheet, you have no special abilites. The following few paragraph will explain a few confusing things, and give hints on how your location will affect your game. Then, there will basic weapon stats. Later, there will be about how zombies affect you, and what kinds of zombies there are, and their health. You will also learn how you can scrounge for stuff from bodies.  Subdivide means to roll for what section it is applicable for. Say your about to go into a room, you would roll for SURVIVOR and ZACH Room check. Say you get a four(4). That means there is something in the room. You would then decide if it was locked. (Unnecessary, but for extra gameplay, most are going to be locked. Hit the lock with something, and roll for it's regular attack. If the attack is successful, you broke the lock. If not, well, you may have to literally blow up the door, or say that you cannot go into the room.) Let's say no lock for times sake. Now, you know something/someone is in there. Subdivide by rolling what it is. Second line of Survivor and Zach Room Check shows this. Luckily, you roll a one(1). That means a Military person is in the room. They can have Assault Rifles, Submachine Guns, Rifles with Scoped subclass, And Scatterguns with the Breacher Barrel subclass. You can only find them in Military bases, Start Variable Location:Warzone, or ALERTNESS Yellow or higher. When moving through a house, roll for room encounters. You may roll for how many rooms you must go through,( If I roll 5, I need to go through 5 rooms before getting out, or to destination around/in house) so you must roll for encounters/room searches while in those rooms.(You would roll 5 times in this case for People and Zach Room check rolls.)  In a house, you may roll for RUN, so 1-2 success, and go to the next room. 4-6, unsuccessful, roll for Scratch. (1-3 Scratched, 4-6 safe.)   ALERTNESS is just a guide for what zombies are available to kill. The ALERTNESS bar is unnecessary; however it adds another angle to the game. It is at the back of this guide.  Ideas, Tips and Otherwise: Tanks, APCs, Pickups, convenience stores, Molotov Cocktail, Improvised weapons, have some fun, and add to this game! Make up some weapons, apply variable splash damage, and just make sure you kill some Zach!   Your start variables should be placed on a separate sheet, for reference. Say for location you picked rainforest/jungle, (your geography, weather, and season fits that description.) you will need/want to roll for Scratches more. (For realism, generally, there will be more crawlers, same with Aristriked Urban.) Same for Urban, and Airstriked-Urban, (Broken buildings, rubble, etc.) or Warzone. (More military personnel. Tanks? Have some fun! :)  START VARIABLES (At the top of the game sheet.) Location: Geography: Weather: Season: # Zach's: Zach's Location: Population Density: Specialized Setting: Attack Rolls: Locks (Y/N): Scratch (Y/N): Alertness Level (Y/N): Supplies (Y/N): Leg Break (Y/N): Travel Days (Y/N):   Supplies is a form of food, ammunition, and other necessary items for a single day. Each survivor in your current group takes 1 supply per day. Supplies can be found by subdividing if your preceding ROOM SEARCH roll is 1-2. If Travel Days is active/applicable, your group takes only 4 supplies per day, individual people in your group do not take any supplies, and you cannot be attacked by Z's. Travel Days are good if you have more than 4 people in your group, and have low health, or need to get somewhere. BITES are fatal, you take 3 supplies when bitten, then the following day you become a Z. Your group can take your weapons. SCRATCH'S are non-fatal; you take 2 supplies for 3 days. (7supplies, because of the one you took the day you were bitten, then the 6 you will take for the following days.) For all melee attacks, roll for bone breaks. 1-2 break, 3-5 Scratched, 6 safe. Scratch disables RANGED and FIREARMS attacks. For disabled, or failed melee attacks, 1-2 = arms, or arm, 3-4 =legs, or leg, 5-6 = chest or neck break. A Neck Break Disable turns Zach melee attacks to 2 bitten, 1 and 3 scratched, 4-6 safe. Arms/Legs breaks decreases that zombies fighting ability to 2 bitten, 1 and 3 scratched, 4-5 safe, 6 breaks leg of human.  When a human has a leg broken, he/she takes two supplies per day, and halves the amount of current PTD. (Play Time per Day)   To determine the time a day takes to complete, roll for the PTD, or Play Time per Day. This is found by rolling a 6 sided dice, then multiplying the number on the dice by 3. This is approximately how long a "day" is in the ZRPG, in minutes. You will need a watch or timer to play this game, if you want to apply PTD.  FIREARMS Scattergun(Shotgun) = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss, Melee 1-4 hit, 5-6 disabled. RANGE:3 This affects a maximum of 3 Zs. Roll for 1-2 1 Zach affected, 3-4 2 Zach affected, 5-6 3 Zach affected. Sub-Class: Breacher Barrel, 1-2 hit, instant death upon Z's, breaches locked doors/drywall (Apartments, this happens if you like to shoot stuff, or the lock you just suck at opening wont unlock,). Pistol = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. RANGE: 4 Melee 1-3 hit, 4-6 failed, if failed, roll for scratches, Z is disabled if successful hit. Subdivide for disable type. RANGE: 1 Sub-Class: Laser, 1-5 hit, 6 miss. RANGE: 5 Rifle = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. RANGE: 10 Melee 1-2 hit, instant kill, 3-5 disabled, 6 scratched. RANGE: 2 Sub-Class: Sighting-Laser, 1-4 hit, 5 miss, 6 disable. RANGE: 12.  Bayonet, see knife attack roll. Scope, 1-9 successful on 12 sided die. RANGE: 16 Assault Rifle = 1-4 hit, 5 miss, 6 instant kill or disable, you pick. RANGE: 14 Sub-Class: Grenade Launcher, 1-4, instant 4 Z's kill, when applicable. 5-6 miss Blows open walls/doors, when you fail  assault rifle as a prerequisite to use a grenade launcher. Sub-Machine gun: 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Has a three round burst, you can hit a Z 3 times, or 3 Z’s 1 time each, or any combination thereof. Sub-Class:   BLUNTS Crowbar = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Sub-Class: N/A 2x4 = 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss. Sub-Class: Additional Spike/Nail 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss, roll for instant kill, or instant disable. Sheet Metal Tipped, instant disable 1-4, 5-6 miss. Bat = 2-5 hit, 1 and 6 miss. Sub-Class:Aluminum Bat, 1-3 and 6 hit, 4 bat bends (You cannot use the bat anymore)                                        5 miss, instant disable if hit is successful.                    Steel Bat 2-5 hit, 1 and 6 miss, instant kill if hit is true. Sledgehammer = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss, roll for Scratch if hit is false, insant disable/kill, subdivide for odd/even. You cannot attack next round, but you can use a secondary. Sub-Class: Industrial size, 1-5 hit, 6 miss, instant kill, Scratch if miss. You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again.   SHARPS Axe = 1-2 hit, 3-6 miss, instant kill. You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again. Sub-Class:Double Sided axe, 1-3 hit, kills 2 Z's. You may use this twice on your turn, You can only use this once per battle, however at the cost of a Scratch, you may use it again. Hatchet = Melee, 1-4 hit, 5-6 miss, Thrown, 1-2 hit, 3-6 miss, if hit, roll = 1-3, disabled, 4-6 instant kill Sword = 1-3 hit, 4-6 miss. Instant disable, or roll for instant kill, 1 and 6 instant kill, 2-5 disable. Sub-Class: Knife =1-2 eye stab, instant kill. 3-4 disable. 5-6 miss. If miss, roll for 1-4 scratched, 5-6 bitten. Thrown 1-4 hit, instant disable. 5-6 miss. When you successfully instant kill or disable a zombie, you lose your knife. Sub-Class: Improvised weapon w/ rifle. 1-4 instant kill,  5-6 disable.   RANGED Bow and Arrow =1-3 hit, 5-4 disabled, 6 miss. Sub-Class: Bomb Arrows,1-4 instant death. Fire Arrows 1-4 hit, roll again, 1-3 immolates Z's, 4-6 damages torso. See Molotov Cocktail effects. Molotov Cocktail = 1-5 hit, 6 immolated, dies 3 days. Buildings burn 3 days. Sub-Class:Alcohol Bomb, 1-6 hit, no misses. 2 Alcohol Bombs kill a Z, 2 days. Starts building fire.   Room Search Rolls: WEAPON SEARCH: 1 = FIREARMS, Subdivide for type, pistols and scatters only 2-4 = SHARP, 5 = BLUNT,  6 = RANGED, no Crossbows/Archers Bow. ITEM SEARCH: 1-2 = Supplies, when applicable. This is probably CVS's Walgreens, SURVIVOR and ZACH ROOM CHECK: For a room check, use a d20.  1-4 Z-Encounter, 6-9 survivor, 10-15 nothing, 16-20 supplies. If you roll 16-20, roll a d6. You gain supplies equal to the number on the d6. For a zombie encounter, roll a d6 for number of Z's   AWARENESS LEVELS L. Green = Near None                                   Civilian Known Only Green = Slight                                                  Civilian Known Only, possible Police help. D. Green = LOW                                              Slight Media Coverup,                  L.Yellow = Less than medium                     More Media, Local Police Intervention Yellow = MEDIUM                                         Full Media, Government Denying D. Yellow = Less than HIGH                         Supressed Media By Government L. Orange = slightly less than HIGH         National Crisis Orange = HIGH                                              Class 4 Outbreak, Zero Government, nearly full world infected. Black = Finished game                                             The world is destroyed and there are zero humans left on earth. Zombies are the dominant species now. They will walk the earth, scrounging, trying to fill the hole that can never be filled. Good job, how could you let this happen?   Z's or Zach Types   These zombies are put where applicable. Normal Zachs, and Fat Zachs are found everywhere.   If you miss while attacking a Z, subdivide if they hit you. If you are hit by a Z, you become one in 1 day. You take 3 supplies for that day, if applicable. 1-4 Z bites you, 5 they Scratch you, 6 is miss.   Normal Zach’s = 1 hits to kill apply infection normally.(Found in AWARENESS level: Near none) Fat Zach’s = 2 hits to kill, lower bite rolls to 1 bitten, 2-6 safe.(Found in AWARENESS level: near none) Mil Zach’s = 4 hits with FIREARMS and RANGED, 3 hits melee. (Found in AWARENESS level: Less than medium) Martyrdom Zach’s = 2 hits to kill, only found in churches, monasteries, temples, etc. (You may pickup pistols and knives only from these. Subdivide, 1-4 none, 5 pistol, 6 knife) Quislings = 2 hits kill, if bitten, do NOT roll for infection! If you are hit by a Quisling, you use 2 supplies for 1 week. PD(Police)Zombies = 4 hits kill, You may pick up Pistols and Scatterguns from them Subdivide, 1-3 pistol, 4 none, 5-6 scattergun. 

Topic by PKTraceur   |  last reply