Insulating Ducts

I was thinking about opening one side or the top of the "metal box" that "insulates" the out/intake ducts of HVAC unit, and filling that space with styrofoam popcorn used for shipping fragile stuff. We recently had a couple of trees cut down in the backyard and now our HVAC unit is completely exposed to the sun for most of the day! We bought a shade to set up but I was thinking the styrofoam would just be a little bit more of a help! What do you think? All ideas and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Topic by thickneckarts   |  last reply


DIY Home Insulation

So I know I need to better insulate my attic for the coming winter but, money is tight and the to-do list is growing so I began thinking of alternative or DIY materials to do the job. I know Cellulose insulation is shredded newsprint treated with chemicals to make it mold and creature resistant, and on a small scale maybe that process could be a fun experiment, but not for 1000 sq ft. My next thought (and current favorite) is to acquire styrofoam packing material (box inserts, packing peanuts, un-used food and drink containers) and mill them up to about the in to some uniform size. Then get some cheap plastic bag/ tube material and fill strips with a couple of inches of styrofoam. Then the blanket o’ foam could just be laid out over the existing insulation in the attic. Now, before I start this endeavor I thought I would check with the instuctable think tank to figure out: A) any better ideas 2) what R rating a 3 inch loose fill blanket of styrofoam and plastic would have III) Is this a terrible idea due to moisture being trapped under the plastic Also in a previous forum someone suggested re-routing their dryer vent to the attic and I was wondering if anyone had tried that and/or anyone’s thoughts on that. -Odo

Topic by Odovacer   |  last reply


insulating radiator cover

I'm looking for suggesting for upping the r-value on top of my radiator. Every window in my apartment has a radiator underneath it. I'd like to have some plants by those windows ('cause y'know, they need light and all) but I'm concerned about heat from below drying & killing the plants. A couple of the radiators have covers, but they're metal, so no insulation there. Ceramic pots may provide some insulation, but I'd really like to lay down a layer of some kind of building insulation proper just to be safe. The question is, what kind? Batting won't work, and the foam insulation panels I've seen at the hardware store I know are a fire hazard... plus not too fond of plastic-type materials. My dad suggested something he called "thermal block" which I believe is aerated concrete panels, but which I can't find a source to purchase. I'd like to spend less than $20, preferably less than $10 on this. Please help!

Topic by timeismine   |  last reply


Aerogel: Has anyone fooled around with this much ?

A Link to a recent Aerogel articleAnyone mess around with this stuff at all? Is it still a bit on the steep side price-wise ?As a Building materialNotice in the picture how well it insulates against a torch flame:

Topic by Goodhart   |  last reply


How to insulate a cooler box

I have just bought a plastic cooler box. It is two boxes in one: an inside lining, an air cavity, the outside case and  of course a lid and handle.. I would like to improve the insulation. I have a 750ml can of expanding polyurethane foam which I thought of spraying into the cavity. It will dry in an hour. I can work out the exact volume  to be filled with  the foam by prefilling it with water and measuring the amount of water that pours out of the cavity , but I do not know the best way to apply the foam. Any ideas, please. For example should I wrap the inner box in anything before pushing it into the wet foam that I  spray against the inside of the outer case? Robin

Topic by R89163   |  last reply


Insulating home window tint for cheap?

Winter is coming like they say on the wall...For me it means I need to find some option to increase the insulation rating of these old windows.3mm thick glass in not really fully sealing sliding frames is a pain.For my last place I had the permission to put proper foil on the windows at my costs.I guesstimated what I need and just ordered the required amount on a roll.That was a few years back though and now prices exploded.Last time I had to pay around $3 AU per meter, now the same material is quoted at $14.95 AU per meter :(My windows go from floor to ceiling and at these prices covering them would cost me more than a months rent.I am sure insulating window tint is available outside AU as well.Does anyone know any sources with half decent prices and low shipping costs?Found one supplier in the US willing to ship to AU but was quoted over $100US for the shipping of one roll (120m).Means all up I would be looking at still a bit over $600US plus postage and there must be cheaper options :(

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


In making a guitar pick-up, do the wire that is winded around the bobbin need to be insulated? or they don't have to be? Answered

I am trying to make a guitar pick-up. At the moment, I couldn't get my hands on a 48 gauge wire so I just used a 20 gauge wire from the dollar store and I don't think its insulated (I just want to try it out first and see if it works, its the first one I'm making anyway _ ). So my question is does the wire need to be insulated or not?

Question by dinner   |  last reply


How To Inflate Plastic Bottles- into balloons- With Heat and Air Pressure?

1).  I would like to use PET drinking water bottles  and polyethylene plastic bottles ( taco Sauce, mustard, plastic juice bottles)- for insulation in an  attic? Choice 1). using a heat source like a heat gun and my air compressor can I inflate old PET plastic water bottles - into balloons to act as insulation spheres ?   Each week  I would spend time turning the plastic bottles into thin-walled spheres that would fill up the attic with light-weight spheres- maybe the size of a soccer ball?  . 2). If Not  choice 1). lets learn how to process plastic bags and packaging into a shredded stringy material to do the attic insulation job. The source of bottles is endless and I hate recycling these to the city and then purchasing expensive fiberglass batt insulation at $40 per roll.  Any DIY wizards try this stuff?  I could literally mega-insulate the attic. If treating the material with Sodium tetra-borate  borax -to get a fire resistance that is doable too. They make clothes, blankets, molded items and padding routinely from old bottles: Why can't I? I would build a shredder or modify a branch shredder machine to do this and make it my recycling hobby over the long term.

Question by KM6   |  last reply


Making a phone headset from soney erricson into a pair of normal headphones?

Hi, I have a pair of Sony Erricson Inear Phone Headphones, I'm wanting to make it into a plain pair of headphones. To do this i have chopped off the phone adapter and stripped back the outer insulation. What i have now are 5 wires. One uninsulated copper one that i presume acts as earth and an aerial, one black, one white both with plastic insulation and one green/blue and red with some form of wire insulation. All cables bar the copper uninsulated have a kind of fibre in the middle, can anyone help me identify which are the audio channels?

Question by    |  last reply


Need Help

I'm also new here and I'm looking forward to learn from you guys. How to Finish a Basement: Framing and Insulating?    What are the other phases to finish a basement?

Topic by greatwindowsss   |  last reply


Some uses of Mylar?

I recently found what I think is a good deal on Mylar, (the reflective kind), but there is a problem, I can't think of any uses!  Anyone have any cool ideas?

Question by Fizzxwizz   |  last reply


Mirror Heater/Demister?

Hi, I need some advice on how to wire up a homemade mirror heater or demister. I have an old toaster which I have gutted to get the heating elements. I also have a few old wallwarts to power the thing. Is using these wires the right thing to use as a heat source? It doesn't have to get hot, just slightly warm. What kind of circuitry will I need to warm up the wire? I also got some modelling latex to embed this wires in to make a heating "pad" for the mirror and to insulate it. Is there a better material I can enclose the elements in. Thanks.

Topic by Armbie   |  last reply


Stay Warmer At Night

We keep a kind of chilly house in winter . Sweaters and sweatshirts are expected, except for company.  In our area, we heat and cook with natural gas and that is cheaper than electricity. But the cheapest heat is residual from cooking . So a kettle is always on for tea whenever wished. And most nights we bake potatoes unless the daughter bakes brownies or something. And, in addition to that we will stick bricks in the oven. Come bedtime, the bricks get wrapped up in towels and put in the bed. where toes can cling to the brick and other toes. Best strategy for bricks is to bake them at 175 for a couple of hours.  Please spare the obvious comments, but please make other homey suggestions.

Topic by Wilmette   |  last reply


building headphones need tips

Hello , I'm not very smart (better then some people are tho) so I need some advice  I'm building some headphones out of Lego , I have them all set up ( as in; Lego structure, speakers ready , head band , i have the wires)  what can I use to insulate them to bloke out sound also what should I use to make the padding so they can go on my ears also to remove all outside sound , is there any good ways to increase bass or just anything to make them better.

Topic by fredd3rf   |  last reply


alternative ways to cool house in new england humid summers

I live in new england where we get some pretty hot and humid days in the summer. I hate ac units so I am trying to find other ways to cool my 180 years old house. It's well insulated and has a full basement that is 5 feet under ground level so it's usually pretty cool. A the temperature rises, the first floor is usually warmer and the second floor gets plain hot Has any one tinkered with fans and ducts to move that cool air up from the basement to the upper floors. Thanks

Topic by missplumeau   |  last reply


Problem with too much window condensation

I have double pane, insulating glass house windows that collect condensation during the winter heating months. The condensation is not between the panes, it is inside the home. The water builds up and runs down onto the wood frame causing rot. It occurs only on the bottom inch or two of the window. The home is in Northern Wisconsin where it is commonly 20 deg F outside and 70 deg F inside. The interior humidity is controlled and not excessive. Aside from setting the interior humidity to desert-like conditions, how can I remove the moisture and prevent further damage to the frame? Desiccant bags? Solar powered fans? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Topic by kwschofi   |  last reply


Home heat exchanger or heat engine anyone?

I know for a fact that in the EU we can now have energy effient homes that utilise the heat from common sources like water heater, solar or just what is under the roof to generate electricity or heat other things.Started to wonder if ever someone tried something in that region on an affordable hobby level.Down here properly insulated homes are rare as a pearl in a supermarket oyster.So my main interest would in utilising the excess heat under the roof during the summer times.This season I measured and average of around 60°C during the day.On those day over the 35°C mark it went up close to 75°C in some areas.I guesstimate that if the draft areas are sealed off a bit a fan system should able to suck air at about 50°C out for about 6 to10 hours per day during the summer.If I would add a small heat exchange made from a solor hot water panel and some piping:Would hat combine heat output be enough to power an ammonia fridge or even freezer?What options are there that you guys created to generate some electricity from other heat sources?Thinking about the exhaust heat from the hot water system or heater.One thing I am planning on is a small solar heater for my big fish tank.Currently not anywhere near a window but would like some Arduino to control a water pump by temperature comparison to provide warm water during the winter months for free.Beats two 400W heaters if you ask me LOLThe potential for some easy to create heat exchange system to generate a bit of electrictiy or power heat exchange system is huge.Australia is full of badly insulated homes and the US is not far behind.And not matter how good they are all those homes still heat the roof cavities like hell.

Question by Downunder35m 


How make round 5" air duct valves?

We moved into a large (for us) house, and we only use a few rooms. I managed to repair the furnace, but the first bill was astronomical. Beyond the leaking windows and lack of insulation, the problem is that, as it is, we have to heat the whole house. I've discovered a temporary method of blocking vent tubes to unused rooms (by stuffing the tube with a rag), but I want real valves. I've heard they are called air duct dampers.  My vents are on the ceiling aimed down.   So, I've seen these check-valve 5" ones https://goo.gl/8zRGLX but I haven't found any that would open and close manually.  But this doesn't seem like it would be difficult to make. I'm toying with the idea of using a cone-shaped "lid" with some kind of springy cord holding it in. Does anybody have any ideas?  How do I make a manual (or electrical solenoid, I suppose) operated valve for a 5-inch round air duct?

Topic by nehmo   |  last reply


I am looking for advice on thermoforming to make a soaking tub from a 55gal HDPE drum

I thought I could make an inexpensive soaking tub by just fitting up an open top 55 gal plastic drum, but my body will not quite fit when I try to sit in it. I just need a couple more inches for my knees. So after viewing a you-tube on how those barrels are made, I have thoughts that I might be able to re-thermo-form the barrel. The more I think about it, if successful, there are lots of uses. Someone posted that HDPE melts around 265F, so I figure that I could get that air temp easily with a hot air gun, possibly inside the barrel, then using a resealable lid, add air pressure to the barrel and surrounded it with a new rigid mold. If I could figure out how to intrude with parts of the rigid mold, I could even make a seat. As I am imagining, the closer I can get it to the shape of my body in a sitting position, the least amount of water I have to use to fill and heat. And then I could add spray foam to the outside for insulation. Does anyone out their have experience blow molding or other recommendations?

Topic by tesselation 


workshop heating ideas.

Hello all, I have a slight problem, while designing my workshop for the winter months, I happened across a monumental problem... how am I going to heat it? As any Canadian reading this will know, our winters are not for the faint of heart (-50 anyone?), the structure I designed has a metal frame, HardiBacker lined inside and out as walls, screwed into the metal poles, fireproof spray foam insulation in between the cement board walls, it has been placed on a gravel surface, and is held to the ground by rebar that is nailed into the ground a few feet, and currently no ventilation. I know it has flaws left right and center, but I'm working with what i have right now, and I've got very little to work with. The structure is quite small 10' x 8' at 640sq. feet. Winter is on its way and I need ideas for heating. I've thought about wood heating but I'll need all the space I can get on the inside. propane heaters are quite expensive, and electric heaters.... well its out in the middle of a field basically. Im looking for something that can heat it up fairly quickly, and is safe, I made it fireproof so i guess a tiger torch isn't out of the question.....  Any suggestions are welcome! Cheers!

Topic by fasterthanfalcon   |  last reply


Old Stereo headset found, but it has an odd array of solder points and i can't seem to get any sound, any ideas? Answered

Hi there! I recently found two old sony headphone speakers, but i can't seem to get any sound out of them. It's a standard L/R speaker set that was enclosed into each ear piece. The odd thing is though that there are 8 solder points on the speaker pieces. One which is black blobbed and two that are white blobbed (i'm assuming it's to prevent shorts). Two wires are connected to two of the solder points (they don't seem insulated though...) I've tried various connection methods to make them produce any kind of sound, but nothing happens. I'm assuming they still work because they look intact, but...well any ideas? I don't have any expertice with audio equipment, but i do have basic electronics experience... I know it's kind of an odd question, but i'd really like to use these speakers and i wanted to make sure i wasn't doing anything wrong. Basically i've been trying to connect various music players to a mini jack port using a microphone mini jack cable (seems to work for all other purposes) and then tried to connect the speaker wires to the jack port solder points (in various ways).I'm probably going to feel really stupid as the answer is probably really simple x3 I hope it makes sense!i should probably specify that the main problem is that i can't get any audio output from them, aka. they're silent no matter what i hook them up to

Question by Eirinn   |  last reply


How can I replace this 3-prong airplane jack on Blackbox m10 headphones?

Hi all. I've been given a set of Phitek BlackBox m10 noise-cancelling headphones once used in an airplane. It has a three-prong headphone jack which I am trying to replace with a 3.5mm stereo jack. A similar question was asked before about a different set of headphones. The consensus seemed to be the third smaller jack provided power and may be able to be connected via a USB.  However I am new to electronics and couldn't follow along. And I don't think there was an instructable produced from it.  I want to use it mainly for my amp and listening while on the computer. The wires in the m10 are blue, red, yellow, green, black and white, along with some loose fibre I think is insulation. I have no idea which cables are which, or anything concerning specifics about voltage and so on. But I have a soldering station, wire cutters and a lot of patience. If someone could provide some help that I as an electronics newbie could follow, I would greatly appreciate it! I'll be sure to take photos and post a detailed instructable if I get it right!  Thanks! ---------- EDIT Thanks guys, been busy, though I promise I'll finish it. http://image.bayimg.com/233c8958b9197a99dded4406e58268b26a474c29.jpg I had a stab at softly prying it open along the seam [red square]. It kept snapping back, and an edge seemed to be held down tightly, leading me to think I'd snap things if I tried to open it. Though there must be a way and the seam looks like the obvious point. Should I just force it? The other screw sections I opened [blue square] weren't helpful. Cheers guys

Question by Crapsolderjob   |  last reply


Smells in the Basement

I have multiple smell problems in my basement.  A bit of information to assist: The floor is a concrete slab The outer walls are made of cinder block About 80 percent of the outer walls are under ground (on the outside of the house) There are two rooms in the basement, a laundry room and a finished room (currently used as a bedroom) It is bare cinder block wall on the exterior wall in my laundry room It is drywall over wood frame wall against the cinder block (with fiberglass insulation) in the finished room The laundry room has some bare concrete and some vinyl stick on tiles as a floor The finished room has concrete slab (unpainted and untreated)  covered with carpet padding and then carpet The carpet in the finished room is about four years old I have had the entire basement tested for mold. mildew, etc. with the results showing none. I am not sure when the house was built. Our house is near Annapolis, Maryland The two smell issues are as follows: The laundry room always has a pretty strong musty smell.  In the winter when it is cold, the smell is not as strong.  As the weather warms up the smell gets stronger and stronger.  I have read that the warm weather draws moisture into the basement threw the walls creating the smell and that a dehumidifier will eliminate.  Dehumidifier removes a lot of water daily and may help a bit with the smell but does not get rid of it. The finished room has an odor problem that does not seem to be in the entire room but is certainly present in one corner of the room where the two exterior walls meet.  The smell is not really strong on the walls but pretty strong in a 4X4 section of the floor in the corner.  My wife smells it all of the time, I can smell it when I put my nose top the carpet.  My wife ha a nightstand near that corner and can smell the odor in cloths that she keeps in the nightstand.  This section is in the right corner of the room.  In the left corner of the room, we have a 4X8 walk-in closet.  She smell the odors from both rooms in the walk-in closet and also smells it in her clothes that are in there. Any help with either of these issues would be greatly appreciated.  

Topic by garyinfante   |  last reply


How can I get rid of the smell of damp concrete in my studio?

I have been working without success on the smell in my 12' x 14' studio for 5 months, so I really hope someone can help me. I can put my nose right up to the walls and the ceiling and the outlets and not smell anything. But when I put my nose right to the floor I smell the dank, musty, yucky smell of damp, dank concrete. The place reeks of it, I can't work in it. I smelled it last October when I was looking to buy the house, I told the inspector about it but he could not smell anything. Everyone can smell something when they open the door, some people can tolerate it but I can't. As soon as you open the door it just overwhelms you. What I have done so far: 1. Had two peg board walls removed and replaced with chipboard, because that was what the other walls were made of. I had assumed at that time that the smell was mold coming from the pegboard. At that time I looked at the insulation inside the studs and it was fine. It smelled so good with that new chip board up that I thought the problem had been solved. 2. In preparation for painting I caulked the ceiling, around the windows, and up against the floors where it meets the walls. 3. Painted 3 coats of Kills primer on all the walls. 4. Painted 2 coats of very good quality semi-gloss paint on all the walls. 5. I scraped off all of the existing paint that was on the floor. It was peeling in places which is what led me to think the smell was coming from the concrete. 6. Washed the floor with a de-greaser. 7. Washed the floor with sulphuric acid, and rinsed it about 30 times. 8. Painted the floor with 3 coats of special paint made for concrete basements to act as a waterproofer. 9. Painted 2 coats of sealer on top. 10. I called the previous owner who confirmed that the studio's monolithic slab was poured without a vapor barrier because code didn't call for it, because no one was going to spend the night there or live in it. He never noticed the smell. 11. In all this time I have run the A/C non-stop, with the windows open, with the windows closed, with no effect. I have even run the heater for a few days. I have cleaned the A/C over and over, there is nothing to clean and the smell is not coming from there. Is there anything I can put on the floor to effectively seal the smell from getting into the air? Why didn't all those coats of concrete paint and sealer do it?

Topic by Ninzerbean   |  last reply


Troubleshooting Christmas Mini-Light Strings

I searched Instructables to be certain I am not covering something someone else has already done, but found nothing.  Here is an excellent article on troubleshooting a bad string of Christmas mini-lights. (I do not know the author and am not connected to him in any way.)  I know of three occurrences of non-working light strings from this year's celebrations. In the first case, the woman who owns the Christmas tree simply bought a new string of lights and hung the new lights over the old string attached at the factory to her synthetic tree. I did not see her tree and cannot say what the cause of the malfunction was. In the second occurrence we put up a synthetic tree with two strings of factory installed lights, one for the bottom half of the tree and one for the top half of the tree. The string on the top half worked some of the time, but then would go out. Typically one suspects a bad bulb. That is also the general suggestion made in the very fine article I linked above. However, that proved not to be the problem. Rather, the problem was the very cheap electrical plug. I cut the plug from the string so I could open it and determine exactly where and how it failed in order to satisfy my own curiosity. Installing a new male plug solved the problem. In the third case, my daughter had a string near the top of her tree that was "out," but not completely at the top. I had limited tools and resources, but plugging the bad string into a different molded female plug brought it back to life. The moral of the story is that while a bad bulb is a frequent source of problems, the molded male and female plugs on these inexpensive light strings are often held together only by a lick and a promise, and fail easily. Giving the molded plugs a hard look is much easier and faster than removing and testing bulb after bulb. The first photo shows an extension cord with molded plugs from three strings plugged into the extension cord. The second photo shows the bad male plug on our tree, and I am using my multi-meter to test for continuity between the brass plug blade and the load end of one of the tiny fuses inside the plug. That part tests "good." The other fuse tested "good," too. In the third photo I inserted a straight pin into the wire and tested for a circuit from the brass blades to the wire. Both sides failed this test.  A multi-meter can easily test what I needed to find this problem. I would have needed to strip away some insulation from the wire or stick a straight pin through the wire to obtain a reading with my multi-meter. But, by this time I had bought a hum tester with a high and a low range for checking different voltage ranges on an AC circuit. It led me to know the plug was the problem. 

Topic by Phil B   |  last reply


how to add a bathroom in the house

each and every home renovation challenge can be an thrilling time. not just that, it's fun, bad improve a home getting a new, but at the same time to include worth to some home and produces it additional handy for family people and guests. at any time you include a bathing room within your house, there are many factors that contractors will should look at preceding for you go out and lease one. right listed here are some recommendations for adding a bathing room in the house; 1. among the probably the most crucial considerations when adding a> Bad, problems relating in the direction of hydraulic system. should know in which the pipes and fittings are installed. You also should look at in which the pipes in relation in the direction of septic method will very likely be run. As well, you appear in the situation with regard in the direction of current plumbing related pipes within your bathroom. It 'important to be aware the fact that additional apart from current pipes, the higher the cost. It 'best to include a producer new bathing room nearbyexisting bathing room as above or below the bathroom. 2. at any time you include a producer new bathroom, look in the sizing in the bathing room so des approach to expand the home to preserve a tremendous bathing room or any space within your home at current allocated? you must also look in the fixtures and bathing room furniture. For example, you must look in the sizing in the tub and shower, if it is used into account. You must also create a graph that isshows the place in the window, sink, toilet, shelves, vanity with drawers and cupboards, linen cupboard … etc., make specific the space is huge enough to include each of the equipment you need to keep. 3. at any time you include the bath, you must confirm space the appear and design. offered the qualities such as color-resistant to moisture, type of floor, like vinyl, marble or granite, and ventilation. In contemplating the views in the bathroom, you mustIn determining no issue whether this kind of the setting up fixtures, bathing room with current and traditional with an old-fashioned look. As well, when preparing in which to set up equipment, you must maximize space, but do not create a crowded bathroom, in which consumers have problems moving. 4. energy performance can be an extra thing to consider at any time you include a bathroom. Consider, for example, reduce flow toilets, wall insulation, energy effective windows, energy saving The lighting, surroundings friendly wooden and setting up materials, as well as the range in the boiler away from your bathing room again. 5. The character in the sink and bathtub can be an extra important consideration. For bathrooms, you have individuals decisions, such as porcelain, fiberglass and metal. To sink, you can in the sink with vanity, pedestal sink and even a sink which has built attached to some wall. Bathtubs and sinks in numerous shapes, styles, sizes and colors. No issue what sort of> bad add, consider your time and spending budget for that challenge that money and spend less time. It will be also beneficial at any time you clarify in the direction of contractor precisely that which you want, and will reduce the probability of errors. As well, it is very crucial that you take advantage of pros to set up the plumbing related and electrical.

Topic by chilli0627   |  last reply


Be aware of the new LED light-door knocking scam!

It might just be a local thing for now here in AU but history shows a good scam often is picked up globally...The topic of the scam is a FREE upgrade of your old incandescent lights to modern and cost efficient LED lights.Down here we have these government sponsored and energy related initiatives for home owners and landlords on a more or less regular base.Sometimes it is solar cells, then solar hot water systems or better insulation, now we again have LED lights as last time not everyone took the offer.The offical way to benefit is to apply for it, usually a quick online process.After that a certified guy or girl makes an appointment and replaces the number of lights you specified.But to address more people and get around landlords door knockers are also used.These offcial guys provide you with some flyers highlighting the program, details about the process and so on.And if you are interested sign you up on a list for your replacement.It means you don't sign anything, you just confirm your ID and end on a list.A a week or two later you see a bunch of students running with little ladders and boxes of lightbulbs knocking on doors.So far so good and sometimes you even get older people replacing the bulbs for free.You can quite easy identify the official guys down here as the display ID tags with picture and those tags not just look professional but also contain all vital info and signs that correspond to the official government initiative.The scammers jumping on the money train however show a slightly different approach.Usually students with good language and promotional skills come in a nice dress and knock on your door.They come with a more less well made copy of the government flyer, usually not in the right format and not on nice, glossy paper.They also usually only show you a badge after you ask then to but won't follow the official code and have it displayed on the dress.Said badge, in my case, was of bad quality and was just an ink jet print laminated in bulk and cut straight, not even with the standard rounded edges...I played along anyway and showed interest, so I was asked if it is ok to have a quick look to check how many lights are required.Keep in mind here that the official guys won't need that info - they take this info by the actual amount of lights the students replace later on!I told the guy I only need 6 lights as the rest was already replaced by myself.Needless to say he insisted stating that he needs to confrim the amount as a requirement for the free replacment because the installer needs to know how many light are required...You would expect now to see someone walking through your house with the head tilted to the ceiling....2 minutes, maybe three...It took almost 10 minutes, for each light he filled a bit out on his form.Like lvining room, 3 lights, ladder required, toilet, one light, cover needs to be removed.....This time was used to get an impression of what is visibly available in the rooms...Once done the nice guy wanted me to sign his now filled out form and asked for my name so he can put it in the form.Don't know why I felt this urgent need but I asked nicely if I could actually have a quick read of the form before I sign.Reluctantly he agreed and handed my the form.What I spotted right away was that it was two pages that were not connected in any way, like with a stapler, not numbered either.The first page had all the details of my lights and requirements plus some not really clear looking government inignias.Like what you would end up with if you embed in a word document from a web page.Low quality instead of coming from a proper and official print shop.Page two then only needed my name, address and signature under the long list of fineprints.I did not even have to read it all to know it indeed is a bdly made scam.The FREE LED lights are still free, but each one comes with an installation fee of $35.This fee covers checking the fittings and light switches and if required their replacement at the costs of the occupant plus of course the disposal of the old lights.The offcial cooling off period for this type of contract is honored though.Well, that is until you read it all and double check the first page.14 days are granted for this officially and in the contract I was supposed to sign.With the exception that I automatically agree to have the replacement done at the convinience of the installer.Also added was a clause that states the contract is binding and the payment is required within 7 days once the lights are replaced.Page 1 though already had next Friday listed for the replacements of my lights....Means my cooling off period is reduced to 7 days....To cancel the contract I would have to send it in writing and with confirmation.And the arrival needs to be confirmed at least 48 hours prior to the installation date so the installer can shedule accordingly.Basically means I have to send this cancellation letter the same day I sign the contract to have any chance at all to avoid paying at least $35 per LED light.Needless to say I refused to provide my name and did not sign despite all well meant attempts to convince me otherwise.And although I can neither deny nor confirm to have made a specific phone call, some cop car picked the guy up shortly after when he was knocking on another door further down the street...Be aware if some really nice guy or girl offers you a FREE service after you opened your door!Be suspicious if they "require" entry to confirm or check certain things!It is quite possible this requirement is only to check for valuables!Do the smart thing and take what they offer in paperwork and ask them to come back a few days later so you can have a good read.Don't let them pressure you in any way!!!If it is a free service then you don't need to rush things and any official door knocker will be happy to give you the parperwork and tell you if you want to have it done you can simple use the details on the info material and register yourself online.And if you go that route you will see an official government portal for it.Even if a scammer goes as far as creating a website for the scam it won't provide you any of the standards you expect from your government.If you really decide to sign something on the spot or to provide personal details then at least read all the fineprints and everything else on all the documents!That means unless you know legal talk that you should have someone check it for you!

Topic by Downunder35m