Cultivating blackberries - works for roses too! Answered
Although in many regions (wild) blackberries are considered to be a pest, in our gardens they can be delicious.
I don't mean the wild variety here but the cultivated ones with big fruits and no thorns on them.
And if you ever tried to successfully save money by just buying one and using cuttings from it for the new season you know the troubles....
Creating cuttings from blackberries is quite easy if done the right way.
But there is an ever easier and simpler way if you don't mind doing your pruning a bit later than usual.
Once the harvest season is over and all berries are gone you see that the blackberries still keep growing before they finally start dropping their leaves.
And if all went well then your blackberries have grown in long "snakes" supported on a vertical structure - like long bows.
During a good season this bows get so long that they almost reach the ground at the end of the season.
All you have to do it to free your snkes so you can places their ends into the ground, preferably out to the side so you can start a new row of blackberries with enough space between them.
Use some soft cord and weights to keep the ends in the ground and fill the hole.
Only water once when done otherwise let nature take care of things.
In a very dry climate or season you might want to water a bit once a week though.
When leaves start to drop in big numbers cut the above ground bits off with about 10 to 15cm left standing.
Prune the big ones as you always do to get them ready for the next season.
And when the next season starts you will see that most of your little "cuttings" take off like mad.
They had the mother plant until it was time to go dormant, so no extra energy was required to stop a dying cutting from going dry.
The end of the plant realised it is under ground and for that reason it is time to grow roots.
Then suddenly it is time to hibernate and all energy is left in the remains, ready for use in the next spring.
It is no problem to get over 15 new plants from a single one this way for the next season.
It also works quite well fo roses.
Although here you might need to create a podest or similar to place pot on.
And the season for it is different too ;)
It all starts with your pruning at thend of the season.
All parts that did not produce flowers, those "wild" stems need to be fully removed.
Those who produced good are cut back so you are left with 3 to 5 "eyes" - these tiny pimple where the new shoots come out.
Pay attention to their location as it determines the direction of the new shoots ;)
Don't have too many facing inwards.
When the rose starts growing again in spring you should prepare your stand for the pot.
The new shoots are quite flexible and can be directed to grow where you need them for the pot by using bonsai tape or wire - just be gently with them!
Once long enough that the end can be placed about 5cm deep into your pot with good potting mix or the good soil from your garden:
Place the pot so that the end shoot is held in the soilwithout force - if in doubt let the shoot grow a bit longer and form it donwards with wire.
You want to bury it only when there is new growth going out if it but not of the end currently only has the leaf(s) showing.
These fresh end shoots should point downwards into the soil.
Cover it all and keep the soild moist at all times but not soaking wet.
It really helps to have the pot shaded.
You can use small seedling pots and check for roots a few weeks later or just wait till the end of the season.
Either way a root should form in the pot and once strong enough you only have to wait and look out for eyes forming on the stem.
If the do you can cut the stem so you have enough eyes on the potted stem.
Be aware though that this will only result in a strong and healthy rose if the mother plant is not a hybridised clone.
For the later it is best to transplant and eye onto a donor bush or wild rose.