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That's looking great! I ventured into the attic last night for my templates. Today I scanned them and have put them into a single PDF, but the site isn't letting me upload the file - "unknown error."I'll see if it lets me send it to you via direct email on Instructables.I didn't template everything because circles are easy to draw with a compass and a few things were designed on the fly (vents, vacuum port trim).

Shop organization AND painted OSB! I like it.

The measurements for the vacuum nozzle are in the Instructable - Step 5.Next time I'm in the attic, I'll grab the templates and scan whatever fits on an 8.5 x 11 sheet. The Poltergust templates won't fit, but I may be able to pull enough measurements for it to make sense. I don't have access to a large format scanner and don't want to cut up my templates.

Absolutely. If you key in on the voids, I'll fill in the blanks.

The stained glass panels are being inserted into my existing windows. It don't agree with your assessment of it being misleading.

The Sapele looks classy and nice job on the low tech jigs.Did you add snare beds? If not, that would reduce the ring/buzz of the snares.You could also resolve the lug splay by adding spacers under the lugs. I've done this with laser cut discs, slices of dowel stock, and even cut leather discs. With the tension rods running parallel to the shell, you'll get more even tuning and won't strip out the treads over time.

I don't always have everything planed out when I go into them ... obviously :). I knew I wanted it translucent and illuminated, I just didn't have a solution at first. All part of the fun.

I wonder if it's the same type of foam .. hmm. At least with pool noodles, you know they can survive outside. Solid idea.

Thank you. It was in the 1000th contest, which is over. I'm currently crossing fingers for the Halloween Contest.

I could, but it's my neighbor's relatively new fence and I don't want to fill it with holes, which is how I ended up taking this adventure in the first place.

I'm enjoying the raised beds. I wish they were larger (3x5), but it's a small yard. We have a groud hog the size of an adult beaver and then a squad of grey squirrels.

No idea, but figured I might as well get in on the celebration.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

I think I see what you are saying - treat it like an entire carriage that is moved. I wouldn't be able to do that with this current set up as the sides are clamped to the table and built to auto align with the center of the arbor.It's an interesting design concept.

I would be interested in seeing your jigs. I have a router jig for the exterior, which I plan on revising/cannibalizing for a new version. I want it to be somewhat modular to do both exterior and interior and fit within my "jig system".

I don't think that exactly accurate based on the fact that the acme rod is 6 TPI. I'd have to put the camera closer for another test run to confirm. I think if you put in a standard blade, you would end up with a drum that had threads, which in itself would be interesting.The jig in its current state can't be put into an angle as the rod passes through two bearings and then the nut. There would be a misalignment/binding issue.

8 Lug, 32 stave with re-rings - nice. Wonder if that was a 12" or a 14"

McMaster-Carr - exactly. I went with the 6' length.I agree about the placement. If I get shorter carriage bolts, I can move them in and still maintain infeed/outfeed space.

Great points.I did consider stepping up the 5/8" diameter. I decided against it because I already had 5/8" components (D shaft, stop collars, bearings) and I wanted to be able to interchange parts between jigs. Also, the price jumps up drastically. The 5'8" rod was around $25 I think. 1 1/2 jumps to around $125. I'm just a guy dinking around, so can't justify the cost.I have a 3/4' all thread rod, which I used for a clamping prototype and I personally experienced a lot of play between the rod and nuts - maybe the all tread is undersized or the thread density has variation. I went with Acme rod in order to eliminate that issue. I also purposely wanted less thread density, so I wouldn't be spinning a drum for days.Agreed on the drill. I quickly touched on that at the end. I w…

Great points.I did consider stepping up the 5/8" diameter. I decided against it because I already had 5/8" components (D shaft, stop collars, bearings) and I wanted to be able to interchange parts between jigs. Also, the price jumps up drastically. The 5'8" rod was around $25 I think. 1 1/2 jumps to around $125. I'm just a guy dinking around, so can't justify the cost.I have a 3/4' all thread rod, which I used for a clamping prototype and I personally experienced a lot of play between the rod and nuts - maybe the all tread is undersized or the thread density has variation. I went with Acme rod in order to eliminate that issue. I also purposely wanted less thread density, so I wouldn't be spinning a drum for days.Agreed on the drill. I quickly touched on that at the end. I was thinking maybe a coupling nut and jam nut - then a socket adapter for the drill.

I'll be making a version of the "common" router jig for the inside of stave and segmented shells. The solid, one piece shells seem like a whole different animal. If they are anything like turned bowls, you'd be dealing with deformation and cracking. I'll have to look around for any drum builders using that method.

They might be talking about standard 3/16" - 1/8" blades that aren't ground for a flat bottom cut. I'm specifically using a flat bottom cutting dado stack - the blade is 3/4" wide.

You sweet talker, you. I put my vote in last week for your awesome screw clamps.

You'll see that type of mechanism on inside milling jigs after the outside has been rounded.Stave and segmented shells generally start as polygons. I think it would introduce more vibration and possibly flex the shell towards the blade every time the wheels passed over a high spot.

I haven't tried it, but I think it would end up binding unless you designed a way for the bearing blocks and advance feed block to tilt. Or fabricate a set at a desired angle.

Much appreciated. I hope to put it to more use this winter - good time for indoor shop projects.

To get that to work with a large drawer, I would've needed drawer slides. I was on a time crunch and also wanted to see if I could find a no cost solution.

I totally agree - those items are always in the way inside cabinets. Good tip regarding the reclaiming of drawers.

I usually use paste wax, but know of the candle trick from an old carpenter. I wonder if one is more effective, or if the are comparable.

I could see them being very useful in a kitchen for all the baking sheets and occasional use items. It that case, I'd go full extension drawer slides and find some kind of mech/closure that made them possible to easily activate and close with feet.

This is amazing.

"The answer is a gun pointing at you" - interesting perspective.The hairstyle is a representation of Leia (From A New Hope I should point out since the dialog occurs in The Empire Strikes Back).The blaster is a representation of Han. Should it be a vest instead or would we confuse that for Freddie Mercury or Rob Halford?There is no person pointing a weapon at another person. Worship the gun is also a pretty heavy handed assumption.

He's pointing right at the viewer!! Where is the outrage? Good stuff.

Thought about it. Han is a scoundrel and shoots first. Also, I tried it and didn't like the balance.