-BALES-

Barge contact cement

So far so good on the bottoms. Because they are somewhat a tapered plug, they have to be pushed up before any rotation can happen. I'm waiting to see if the winds which whip through here are enough to do it.No interest from birds, nor squirrels to date.

Jury is still out .. no tenants yet, but it's still rainy and cold in New England.

Thank you. Also, wafflebeaver is an amazing username.

It doesn't need an upper stop because the copper pipe runs through the fence via the slot and there is no slop in that fit.Good info on the candle wax. The slide bolt on the other gate has been running well for 9 months thus far - through the New England winter and 1 mile from the ocean. I expected some swelling/twisting/or warping, but it's actually shrunk a bit as the PT dried out.

It comes down to not having the free time to film, process, upload, and post a video.It's just a standard slide bolt on the interior of the fence [Step 10], but the knob extends through the fence to the exterior [Step 1 & 11].

Weymouth is the townMA for Massachusetts

Cool design idea, but not necessary for this suburban setting where every other gate has a visible and accessible hasp/latch.

Solid observation. Spring return would create more problems with binding, etc. Also, in this setting, the tile below isn't possible because of the horizontal framing of the fence/gate, upon which the slide bolt rides.

I appreciate that feedback.

Thank you. I see you're cranking on home renovations as well ... good stuff.

Thank you. Make some mock ups to try ideas and don't worry about things not working - I'm sure you'll manage just fine.

The text directly references pictures within each step to help visualize. Other than that, you'd have to specify.

I don't generally take commissions, but anything is possible.

These packs look amazing!

The thicker foam is around 1/2" and it's from Harbor Freight - floor mat packs. The sides are two layers, so they look thicker. There are templates for both layers.The thinner foam is around 1/8" craft foam from Michael's - comes as a roll.

This one is Yootech. Still large at 3 7/8" diameter - hence having to build up the base. It also doesn't work with most phone cases.

I scanned them as is - 8.5x11 sheet ... no funny business.

The templates are available for download at the bottom of Step 30

For shop jigs, I use a stencil and spray paint. They aren't leaving the shop, so I don't mind if the edges bleed a bit. For the inside of drum shells, I use the laser printer toner transfer method with acetone. The toner transfer with a wood burning iron seems to get a more consistent look, but I always seem to leave burn marks.

I agree, but that eats a lot of time and there is minimal to zero return on investments. If I had CAD skills, I could make plans and CNC files to sell, but I don't ... and no time to learn CAD.

I'm a transplant from Iowa with time spend in TN, but I have certainly picked up some of the New England terminology. I tend to mix all three when I actually speak - it's a bit of a mess.

If they are that invested and the 6ft fall, they can come on in ... maybe grab some vegetables.

Good info. Tons of rocks here - egg sized, softball/grapefruit sized, pumpkins. In some of the pics you can see the collection from these 7 holes sitting next to the house foundation. Place was built in 1928 and was the second house in the neighborhood, so no telling what's buried.

Great suggestions. I'm going to see what it does (curiosity) and add bracing down the line if necessary.

I don't think it's a regional thing, maybe just less prevalent due to the material cost generally being higher. And probably labor costs if you hire it out.

Dedicated track saws are pretty sweet, I just can't justify the expense as a DIY/Hobbiest.

I made his "perfect SPAM and beans." They didn't disappoint.

I cut close to the line with a razor and then trued them up on my oscillating belt/spindle sander. You could also use a dremel with sanding drum, jug up a belt sander, or just be more accurate with cutting.You can see clips of it in the fabrication vlog video listed in Step 1. There is also a slideshow video embedded in the Step 29.Also, in case you didn't notice and want to use them. All of my templates are in a PDF file in Step 30. You'll just have to tape them together since I don't have a large format scanner.

That's looking great! I ventured into the attic last night for my templates. Today I scanned them and have put them into a single PDF, but the site isn't letting me upload the file - "unknown error."I'll see if it lets me send it to you via direct email on Instructables.I didn't template everything because circles are easy to draw with a compass and a few things were designed on the fly (vents, vacuum port trim).

Shop organization AND painted OSB! I like it.

The measurements for the vacuum nozzle are in the Instructable - Step 5.Next time I'm in the attic, I'll grab the templates and scan whatever fits on an 8.5 x 11 sheet. The Poltergust templates won't fit, but I may be able to pull enough measurements for it to make sense. I don't have access to a large format scanner and don't want to cut up my templates.

Absolutely. If you key in on the voids, I'll fill in the blanks.

The stained glass panels are being inserted into my existing windows. It don't agree with your assessment of it being misleading.

The Sapele looks classy and nice job on the low tech jigs.Did you add snare beds? If not, that would reduce the ring/buzz of the snares.You could also resolve the lug splay by adding spacers under the lugs. I've done this with laser cut discs, slices of dowel stock, and even cut leather discs. With the tension rods running parallel to the shell, you'll get more even tuning and won't strip out the treads over time.

I don't always have everything planed out when I go into them ... obviously :). I knew I wanted it translucent and illuminated, I just didn't have a solution at first. All part of the fun.

I wonder if it's the same type of foam .. hmm. At least with pool noodles, you know they can survive outside. Solid idea.

Thank you. It was in the 1000th contest, which is over. I'm currently crossing fingers for the Halloween Contest.

I'm enjoying the raised beds. I wish they were larger (3x5), but it's a small yard. We have a groud hog the size of an adult beaver and then a squad of grey squirrels.

I could, but it's my neighbor's relatively new fence and I don't want to fill it with holes, which is how I ended up taking this adventure in the first place.

No idea, but figured I might as well get in on the celebration.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

I would be interested in seeing your jigs. I have a router jig for the exterior, which I plan on revising/cannibalizing for a new version. I want it to be somewhat modular to do both exterior and interior and fit within my "jig system".

I think I see what you are saying - treat it like an entire carriage that is moved. I wouldn't be able to do that with this current set up as the sides are clamped to the table and built to auto align with the center of the arbor.It's an interesting design concept.

I don't think that exactly accurate based on the fact that the acme rod is 6 TPI. I'd have to put the camera closer for another test run to confirm. I think if you put in a standard blade, you would end up with a drum that had threads, which in itself would be interesting.The jig in its current state can't be put into an angle as the rod passes through two bearings and then the nut. There would be a misalignment/binding issue.

8 Lug, 32 stave with re-rings - nice. Wonder if that was a 12" or a 14"

Great points.I did consider stepping up the 5/8" diameter. I decided against it because I already had 5/8" components (D shaft, stop collars, bearings) and I wanted to be able to interchange parts between jigs. Also, the price jumps up drastically. The 5'8" rod was around $25 I think. 1 1/2 jumps to around $125. I'm just a guy dinking around, so can't justify the cost.I have a 3/4' all thread rod, which I used for a clamping prototype and I personally experienced a lot of play between the rod and nuts - maybe the all tread is undersized or the thread density has variation. I went with Acme rod in order to eliminate that issue. I also purposely wanted less thread density, so I wouldn't be spinning a drum for days.Agreed on the drill. I quickly touched on that at the end. I w…

Great points.I did consider stepping up the 5/8" diameter. I decided against it because I already had 5/8" components (D shaft, stop collars, bearings) and I wanted to be able to interchange parts between jigs. Also, the price jumps up drastically. The 5'8" rod was around $25 I think. 1 1/2 jumps to around $125. I'm just a guy dinking around, so can't justify the cost.I have a 3/4' all thread rod, which I used for a clamping prototype and I personally experienced a lot of play between the rod and nuts - maybe the all tread is undersized or the thread density has variation. I went with Acme rod in order to eliminate that issue. I also purposely wanted less thread density, so I wouldn't be spinning a drum for days.Agreed on the drill. I quickly touched on that at the end. I was thinking maybe a coupling nut and jam nut - then a socket adapter for the drill.

McMaster-Carr - exactly. I went with the 6' length.I agree about the placement. If I get shorter carriage bolts, I can move them in and still maintain infeed/outfeed space.

I'll be making a version of the "common" router jig for the inside of stave and segmented shells. The solid, one piece shells seem like a whole different animal. If they are anything like turned bowls, you'd be dealing with deformation and cracking. I'll have to look around for any drum builders using that method.

They might be talking about standard 3/16" - 1/8" blades that aren't ground for a flat bottom cut. I'm specifically using a flat bottom cutting dado stack - the blade is 3/4" wide.

You sweet talker, you. I put my vote in last week for your awesome screw clamps.

You'll see that type of mechanism on inside milling jigs after the outside has been rounded.Stave and segmented shells generally start as polygons. I think it would introduce more vibration and possibly flex the shell towards the blade every time the wheels passed over a high spot.

I haven't tried it, but I think it would end up binding unless you designed a way for the bearing blocks and advance feed block to tilt. Or fabricate a set at a desired angle.

Much appreciated. I hope to put it to more use this winter - good time for indoor shop projects.