-BALES-

My head is centered in the globe, so there is a lot of room in front of my face. The air flowed up through the neck and out of the eyes. No overheating and no fogging up.Inversely, I left the eyes closed on the TMNT head and that was a mistake. They fog up within minutes killing visibility.

Congrats on this well deserved win, Art.

Thanks! You too - strong competition on this one, but I'm happy just making it to the finals.

I thought about using a rubber bumper pad (like those used on glass tabletops/shelves) on each bottom corner, but haven't actually tried it. It's been in play daily, so hasn't left the dining room table.The theory seems sound and your rendering is awesome.

Dooh! Thanks for the heads up.

You're the best nemesis a guy could ever ask for!

I didn't shoot any video ... and it was great. I don't enjoy the filming process. Oddly, I do enjoy editing.

No stealing involved - it's out in the ether for public consumption and I'm sure I'm not the first to make something like it.I hear you on the parts list. The info could be gathered from the write up, but having a concise list could/would be beneficial. I can work on adding them at the end.As for writing style, I just don't enjoy the technical approach. It's boring and probably why I don't read many manuals. Instructables is a hobby and takes time, so I'm going to enjoy that time, which means writing in my chosen style. I hear and understand what you are saying, I just don't want to do it.

That was probably the Tool & Supply total you saw.Materials Total = $179.09Tool & Supply Total = $76.50Final Total = $255.59

Fantastic!! I'm still finding green faux fur in my house from 2 years ago.

I've seen a 4 player version on the Duluth Trading Co. site which has a common playing area in the middle. It's pretty cool and it's on my long list of projects (if I ever get around to it). My main idea/objective with this one was attention span for young children. I made a one player version for a nephew, but he'd get restless when we were playing back and forth.

That's amazing. I'd like to see a picture if you can dig one up.

That would be amazing. I've been looking for a high resolution image of this map for a project on my list.

Agreed! I started following his FB page, but haven't seen much activity over there either. I imagine he's putting more time and energy into the physical projects than virtual projects.

Pretty slick! I imagine if you had the full/unsegmented file, you could take it to staples or another location that can do large format printing.

Good point - I didn't add any disclaimers. With the exception of the padauk pallet, these were all heat treated and stamped as such. The padauk pallet had no markings and was probably treated with methyl bromide. Normally I wouldn't touch a pallet like that, but it was padauk ... with spalting. I processed it outside with full respirator, goggles, long sleeves. When using the tablesaw and drum sander on it, I again had on the respirator, as well as running the dust collection and air purifier.

Thanks for the suggestion ... I'll look into paraffin oil.

I'll be interested to see if there are any ill effects from expansion and contraction. I see benches made with the herring bone pattern and they never report issues. We'll find out!

That's a router mill on which I'm slowly working. It's for truing the exterior faces of stave and segmented drum shells. It will advance along that extruded aluminum fence above the router in the table.

Those look killer! The black all around the sides and on the leg dowel is sweet - I like your paint scheme better than my version. Thanks for stopping back and sharing the pictures.The acetone method is definitely easier, I just have a hard time getting a consistent shade and crisp lines with it. I use the acetone method on the inside of all my drum builds though.