Ajaxjones

The cable tie needs to be tight, and I think I glued it in with super glue at the other end too. Plus I packed the bellows with some old bearing grease I had lying around.

I'll see if I can draw it up, but its exactly the same way that you would wire up a R/C car. Throttle with a Speed controller and servo for the steering

I just glued the servo carrier to the motor

Wallace and Gromit approve, nice trousers.

Interesting read , i am having the same problems with trying to power a small Wemos, what I have discovered with the power bank that I have is that a magnet will power it up? I am not quite sure what is going on, but the close proximity of a small magnet powers up all the lights and the bank springs to life. It doesnt seem to go off either. Not sure what it will do in regards to discharge as the LEDs are then kept on.

STL for the hull and parts list are now added :)

ducktastic !!

Sure thing, I will be putting up a parts list and STL this evening

I've added a link in the new parts list to the jet drive. I didnt run it in the videos at full power as I was channeling duck when I was driving it. I am a method driver :) it was capable of a turn of speed though and at 15mm diameter of the nozzle this was the smallest one (and cheapest!) They also come with a water cooling jacket, but I'm just bimbling around so it doesnt seem necessary at the moment. If you keep the throttle down its very gentle, However if you are making drones to film animals, twin screw drives might be a quieter option. You can get those for £10 and a dual ESC for another £10

Sorry, just named as the real boats are also called Jet Boats, after the Water Jet propulsion system. But hmmmm, rockets........

Thanks, it really is quite relaxing to pilot it as well. You start thinking like a duck and just drift around :)

Beyond awesome, and some brilliant engineering solutions, love the dual microswitch.

Great project. I've just made this too, but I couldnt get the bar code reader to work in serial mode. I had to make it read factory bar codes to switch from USB into serial. Did you have to do the same, or did yours come as serial as default? Did you test it prior and send it serial on the Rx perhaps as I am wondering if that is a way to get it to switch?

just seen your miniature bookcase ! , thats on my to-do list too :)

HI, you should be able to download the dies I have made for this above in the 3D die section.

Hey. good idea. I'll add them later today, even the I love PPC in case you are in marketing too :)

hey thats good to hear. I've put dimensions and parts up now and working on drawings. Its a great bit of simple cheap kit to use and works much better than a vice, and not everyone has a vice in any case.

yes, they are I ended up making far too many keyfobs! Seeing the impression in the wet leather is really neat.

thanks, it was surprisngly easy to do and went really well. I wish I had known years ago!

Nice work there to reverse engineer it, I also think I've found my next birthday present.

nice one, i hope it survived the season. My one seems to have been 'lost' by the fam

Well its a visual representation of an old vacumm valve that used to be in electronics before transistors became known. Its a safer alternative to use as the originals were made of glass and its also an excercise in casting with resin.

Hey, good question. I've added a new step 8 called "Filling the void" explaining how I fill the hole in the central support with candle wax.

Hey thanks, I've got a few more to add as well once I dig them out of the browser history. For something that only has one light in it, there is a heck of a lot of map math :)

hey thanks, but have to state that the credit for the original 3d files is for Natalie Ridenhour , https://www.thingiverse.com/Natnat9259/about I just scooped them out, painted them up and stuffed them with some electrons.

Hi. sorry for some reason I only just saw this comment, the <p> are HTML artifacts from the formatting that somehow have crept into the code! I've removed them now, so hopefully it works and I hope you worked it out?

Made one and checked the regulator before even attaching the fan and it shows4v and the fan spins fairly slowly :(

You could use one for hours and one for minutes , providing you displayed only 1-12 hours and 5 minute intervals. I'd use a wemos in each one as well considering they are so cheap.

If you wanted to make more of them and use them as a clock it would be very easy to use ntp and I am using timelib in another project to do just that via a NTP service. I use TimeLib.h and the uk.pool.ntp.org server to get the time by just issuing a getNtpTime() request

thanks SimonRob, I'll be putting up the code at the end of the week that shows how to drive the OLED reliably, or at least to get it to come on every time without it having a reset line.

The libraries are all a lot easier to install now it seems,plus the Adafruit IO is easy to configure. IFTTT have also upped their a game a lot with the new UI as well. The Alexa voice trigger was an added bonus, although to get a lot of colours you'd need to set up all the triggers which can be a bit labourius