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ArturZ9

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  • DIY Non Contact IR Thermometer V1.0

    These are usually included on a breakout boards of I2C components you are using.Indeed would be good to add them where bare components are used.

    Oh, did I say Arduino? I was meaning Android, actually. Silly me :)

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  • DIY Non Contact IR Thermometer V1.0

    Melexis, the manufacturer of MLX90614 thermometers, claims these are factory calibrated and provide medical grade precision within possible human body temperature range. As far as I remember, MLX90615 is a bit better than MLX90614.As it has all the measuring circuit within the chip and the output is digital there is not much the user can do to ruin the precision. So as long as the object covers the visibility cone of the device, the measurement of quite trustworthy. You may not take a legal action or official medical decision based on the measurement, but it should be good as a general purpose tool.

    I guess, I will post something. When it is ready :)I have just a basic knowledge of Android app programming and nearly no experience. But what I have tried between two ESP32s is communication via BLE. It seems to be just what one needs for simple command-response type of control. Saves hassle of pairing devices and saves power, doesn't it?

    Yeah, I have considered different options.There are even some ESP32 boards with epaper displays on them. That would be supercool for battery fed applications if you don't need to display data quickly changing.Though in terms of affordability integrating separate components is better. And designing layout of your project might me easier if they are not bound together :)

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  • D-LBFG Discus Launch Balsa Free Flight Glider

    Frankly, performance DLGs are meant for soaring. That is the reason these have wing loading that light, it just has to float.And it is easy to add weight. Hard to remove weight.Added weight improves wind penetration, though nobody promises you it is safe to pull high G on a light glider. The fuselage is very strong on DLG, as discus launch is very demanding. But the wing might be not very strong for pulling up with weight added.

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  • D-LBFG Discus Launch Balsa Free Flight Glider

    Another trick is using paper painters tape to mount parts.These include weights that are easy to move and remove that way.Or even wing which could me moved along fuselage to achieve best balance without extra nose weight.For instance in case of 2 channel DLG you can mount tail surfaces on a carbon tube, add all the RC gear on the other end of the tube (with wires or thread going inside the tube from servos to the tail) and then mount the wing by tape. It does not look pretty, but absolutely works allowing moving the wing along the tube to find optimal CG.For that matter, battery, receiver, camera, etc also can be taped on.Just don't tape servos.And tape totally loses it's stickiness when wet or in freezing weather.

    That is my thought also.The model is simple. There is room to improve performance.But for someone who is building their first model simplicity is more important.It is just I was always nervous about free flying models. Mine always flew away :)

    That was the smell of the aircraft modeller club workshop.Acetone, balsa sawdust and burnt styrofoam from hot wire cutter. Epoxy too.Smells like the best fun to me :)

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  • How to Make Welding Rods Storage Container

    That is a great idea and nice execution.Though I prefer the lower mug made of square 100*100*4 with handle on a side. The height is ca 300mm so 350mm electrodes are higher than the edge and are easy to grab.And for long term storage I use a 110mm PVC sever pipe components fitted together to form an airtight container. It consists of piece of pipe cut to right length, blind plug on one end and screw lid on another.https://photos.app.goo.gl/eYcG8MrJQjWzcMJh8 like that.

    The real welder is not one who does not punch holes, but the one who can weld them closed (c)

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  • DIY Heavy Lift Fixed Wing RC Aircraft

    I will. Though my last build was like 5 years ago. And since then I have being resurrecting (with some glue and tape) my old projects to fly them time to time.I have one micro quad in queue for some time. Maybe I will complete and fly it soon. Maybe later :)

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  • DIY Heavy Lift Fixed Wing RC Aircraft

    Thanks for the answer, it is an interesting reading.1) Well, ideologically that looks great, but as a practical matter there are lots of sources of drag on this plane, so it seems that V tail and hoerner wing tips would give negligible effect compared to drag of all that fuselage details, exposed electronics, aspect ratio of the tail, etc.2) Concave wing offers greater surface for same weight on a wing cut from a solid piece. As it has about 1/3 of the wing volume removed from concave.Reinforcing could be solved a bit differently, like with spars on leading and trainling edge, like I mentioned. Covering a wing surface with packing tape gives surprizingly much of rigidity for the little weight it adds.3) Well, restriction on a powerplant is a serious design constraint.4) Gluening a spar at…

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    Thanks for the answer, it is an interesting reading.1) Well, ideologically that looks great, but as a practical matter there are lots of sources of drag on this plane, so it seems that V tail and hoerner wing tips would give negligible effect compared to drag of all that fuselage details, exposed electronics, aspect ratio of the tail, etc.2) Concave wing offers greater surface for same weight on a wing cut from a solid piece. As it has about 1/3 of the wing volume removed from concave.Reinforcing could be solved a bit differently, like with spars on leading and trainling edge, like I mentioned. Covering a wing surface with packing tape gives surprizingly much of rigidity for the little weight it adds.3) Well, restriction on a powerplant is a serious design constraint.4) Gluening a spar at given angle, optionally using some plywood. No problemo at all. Like adds very little complexinty (that full ribbed slats, huh?) and very little weight. Ailerons on a center part of the wing give very little to a maneruvrability of the aircraft as these have little leverage. These are good as flaps, but at maneuvres they give more drag than rolling effect. So... meh. My experience flying polyhedral wings tells me that they have quite adequate turning characteristics. And added stability is quite valuable should less experienced pilots like students tend to be, have to fly it.5) Yeah, that was exactly my thought. Slats allow for more angle of attack so these are especially valuable on STOL aircraft. When it comes to cruising, these are rather adding to drag, so usually these are pulled to the wing in a "grown up" aviation. But actually it would be interesting to see an effect of slats measured on such a model. Like comparision of the lift and drag of the wing of the same area/weight with and without slats.7) Concave airfoil is not a problem to cut with a two part template. One template for upper surface, another for lower. Wooden leading edge also removes a concern about the area most problematinc to cut and most important aerodynamically. Give it a try some time. You'll see the light!Another thing, the slat could be glued together from pieces shorter than the wing.8) In my experience, the smooth surface of the template helps hot wire cutting a lot. Quality plywood sanded to 2000-3000 grit is the best I have used so far. It might be a real game changer when cutting tricky parts of the airfoil.9) As far as I have done it, if you have to wait for center to catch up, you are going too fast. Rush won't get you far with foam cutting. the uniform speed of the wire is essential for the quality of the cut. Pulling the wire in zigzag along it's length as it progresses might help a bit with the drag of the center part, but at cost of serration of the surface.10) Reinforced leading edge pays when the wing flies into an obstacle. Being there, seen that.The RC flight hobby is a way of constant learning and trying out new things. Hope your plane gets more people onto this trail.

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  • DIY Heavy Lift Fixed Wing RC Aircraft

    Great project, great execution.Few notes on aircraft design.For maximum payload at available complexity level I would prefer large wing area to advanced aerodynamic features. At low flying speed biplane seems to be a valid solution. Again, for low speed high lift thick concave airfoil seems to be better. It gives you more wing are for same weight. It produces more drag, but adding more engine power is easy and won't add that much weight. Though classic mid-wing airplane with Clark Y as it is here is a totally viable choice.For added stability I would consider a bit of polyhedral in outer sections of the wing. Especially considering that it is made of multiple sections.Slotted flaps and leading edge slots definitely add a cool factor to the whole thing. Though efficiency of both is questio…

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    Great project, great execution.Few notes on aircraft design.For maximum payload at available complexity level I would prefer large wing area to advanced aerodynamic features. At low flying speed biplane seems to be a valid solution. Again, for low speed high lift thick concave airfoil seems to be better. It gives you more wing are for same weight. It produces more drag, but adding more engine power is easy and won't add that much weight. Though classic mid-wing airplane with Clark Y as it is here is a totally viable choice.For added stability I would consider a bit of polyhedral in outer sections of the wing. Especially considering that it is made of multiple sections.Slotted flaps and leading edge slots definitely add a cool factor to the whole thing. Though efficiency of both is questionable at that speed and scale. Something something reynolds numbers. I guess, adding more wing area for the same weight would give more lift.

    Few notes on a technological side too.Making a fully ribbed slat seems totally overkill for this plane :) If use slats at all, foam hot cut would be totally sufficient, or one ply bent balsa on a four ribs per console.Cardboard is not a best material for wing profile templates. Especially given you have access to laser cutter. Plywood would be great in this role.Cutting Clark Y would be easier with negative template. Especially around leading edge. Or two separate templates for lower surface and upper surface. Though that is even better for concave airfoils.It is very useful to add a numbered ticks on templates so two people on both sides of a wire can synchronize. One is leading and counting ticks he passes. Another confirms.You might cut off the leading and trailing edges of the wing an…

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    Few notes on a technological side too.Making a fully ribbed slat seems totally overkill for this plane :) If use slats at all, foam hot cut would be totally sufficient, or one ply bent balsa on a four ribs per console.Cardboard is not a best material for wing profile templates. Especially given you have access to laser cutter. Plywood would be great in this role.Cutting Clark Y would be easier with negative template. Especially around leading edge. Or two separate templates for lower surface and upper surface. Though that is even better for concave airfoils.It is very useful to add a numbered ticks on templates so two people on both sides of a wire can synchronize. One is leading and counting ticks he passes. Another confirms.You might cut off the leading and trailing edges of the wing and glue some balsa strips there, sanding them to shape of an airfoil after. Might be more precise shape, as foam cuts have most defects around sharp edges, and gives a wing a bit more rigidity. Better sustains collisions with terrain than a plain foam edge also.But as I said, very cool plane. Thumbs up.

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  • ArturZ9 commented on mtairymd's instructable Entry Level Workbench

    That is a great project.Except I have absolutely different idea of "entry level".I see it rather as super mega fancy workbench.

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  • Get yourself a trailer, get a new car and put an old one onto the trailer behind you as a source of spares.

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  • Unfortunately, zippers on the luggage are relatively easily open without even using it's pull and closed without leaving much visible mark. The method needs some practice, but is totally workable.

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  • ArturZ9 commented on bekathwia's instructable Solar Balloon

    According to physics the larger the balloon the more efficient it is. Surface area/volume ratio marks how well it flies.In case of cylindrical shape of constant diameter, the longer the better. Though a very long wiener would bend and wobble.

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  • ArturZ9 commented on tanner_tech's instructable DIY Induction Heater

    I am sure, to harden a knife blade you would need much more powerful device. As this one just heats part of the nail red. But the scheme can be rather easily scaled up to pretty much any power.

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  • Even tough there are other solutions, ATtiny chips still do have their charm.Affordable, compact, wide powering options, potentially very low power consumption, have good community behind, are both reasonably compact and quite simple for uninexperienced DIYers. So if you need something that uses just couple of pins and lasts for years off battery, ATtiny is still way to go.

    Are you sure about pricing?According to Microchip MEGA8-16PU costs 2.41 per piece, ATTINY85-20PU is 1.20Never mind, ebay offers mega for .99 and tiny for 1.11 :)Though mega won't come in DIP8 package, if size does matter.

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  • Great idea. Though drill press is not intended to carry radial loads, shaft bearings might say goodbye after some while. So in long term it would be wise to get yourself a drum sander.

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