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This is nice and simple, but some leds won't be very reliable without any current limiting. Also, paralleled LEDs without any individual current limiting tend to hog current. This is the reason why cheap led flashlights with many paralleled LEDs tend to be uneven in brightness, and burn out over time.Unfortunately, there's probably not a really good way to properly limit the leds and keep the design as simple, so I guess you have to decide on a reduced lifespan (total life of the led, not per cell), or a slightly more complicated design.A single resistor in series with the coin holder set to limit the current to a safe value for a single led should reduce degradation over time, though it will also be less bright.
Nice. It looks good. I have standard 8' ceilings and I can easily sit upright in bed, so It's probably not too much taller than yours is.That's actually why I made the instructable more about the way how it was built, instead of a list of dimensions. It's pretty easy to just cut the boards to whatever height works for you.
It's a normal 8 foot ceiling.
Were those holes in the cranks necessary to get enough flex, or are they just leftover from other projects?Do you have a schematic for your amplifier circuit?
No problems. I did notice that the action was a tiny bit higher than originally, so I adjusted the truss rod. Still no buzz with a low action, so I think it's good for the long haul. I would still recommend buying the wood in advance and storing it for a while in the house where conditions are stable, but I think that good construction can reduce the likelihood of problems, best is to do both.I will warn against building in a cold shop. I left a body i had just planed overnight and it cupped about 5mm and flattened again after 24 hrs warm. If I had done the planing on cold wood, It would be junk.
My experience was different.I found that they worked well when new, but wore out very quickly.
If you want something that's cheaper long term, waterstones are a good way to go, and you don't need as many grits as with the paper.A single 800grit waterstone used every time you use the tools is better than having a big routine that gets them razor sharp but is such a hassle that you only do it occasionally.
It's a typical 8 foot ceiling, and gives plenty of space to use the computer desk, or sit up straight on the bed without touching the ceiling.
Do you have any more horizontal support on there that I can't see? I would expect it to be a bit wobbly without a wide board or diagonal supports to prevent it from racking.
That looks pretty good. I just used the metal support to save a bit of height, since I have a very thick mattress, and didn't want to be too crowded against the ceiling. As it is, I couldn't sit under it like you have yours set up. my side board is at my forehead height, so I need the desk aligned with the front edge. I am quite tall, though, so it might be easier to sit under if you need less head room.Do you have high ceilings, or is your bed just thin enough to make it work that way?
I built it to fit a queen size mattress, but there is no reason you couldn't build it smaller.