AzurusNova

I have the extruder fan connected where the second extruder heater coil should go as you describe, though I am running into trouble when trying to print with PETG filament and having modded my extruder fan from the stock 30mm to a better 40mm fan, it's actually cooling the print bed and causing prints to fail. If I understand right there is a connector somewhere on the board where you can connect the fan and have the gcode control the fan. This would help since there is an option in my Cura slicer for turning the fan on and off, and using OctoPrint I have the option to control the fan from a control panel as well. So this is just me asking where I can find the fan connection on the RAMPS 1.4v board to move the extruder fan connection to those pins.

I can be added to the list of people who is upset about the drop of the mobile app. I used it a lot for browsing through new and interesting instructables and sending out ones I thought were interesting out to friends. Now that the support is gone and even the images have stopped being posted to everything, the app is totally unusable. I would vote to have the app brought back, I have an older Note 8 and a Galaxy S3 device, and the web browser version is a very hard one to navigate. This choice was a bad one. Please reconsider.

It does not show up with the USB0 com port on my desktop. Ive tried this same setup on another linux machine and I have to go through the same steps to get the sketch to load onto the board. I have to have the "upload_router" script running in an open terminal window for the DFU to see the board after I hit its reset button, it then catches it and then I can upload to the board, then the IDE resets the board and it runs the newly uploaded script. I have been talking to Roger Clark on a Gitter chat room about this very issue. When I figure out what the issue is I shall report back with the solution.

Alright, got all my boards flashed properly now. Should I move both boot pins to 0?When I plug it in by USB it doesnt show up.

I am at this same point myself. Just got ten boards all sucessfully flashed with the bootloader. Can't get the aurduino ide to see the board though.

I am having the same issues you are, but I am on a linux machine, so I don't think this is something to do with what OS, but more has something to do with either the IDE or the board.

Well I have made some progress.Here is where I am at. Ill provide screenshots of what the IDE is showing. When I run the IDE it compiles and sends it to the device, it says it completed correctly, but the PC13 led is still blinking quickly. I can't figure out why it is not running the script. Still really happy with the progress I have made though. Eagerly waiting for your reply.

Trying to flash this with all the settings you have described, but each time I try to connect, the flashing utility says this to me. "No response from the target, the Boot loader can not be started.Pleas, verify the boot mode configuration and the flash protectionstatus,Reset your device then try again..."I have both jumpers set to 0 and I am using an Arduino Duemilanove without the arduino chip installed as an FTDI programmer. P.S. When this is all programmed correctly, I won't need to use an FTDI device to program it each time, I could program it over the on board USB port?

Picked up 10 of these boards, for the price its SO worth it.

Will these instructions work out the same way with someone who is on a Linux bases operating system?

Well I do have windows on a virtual machine, until then Ill do that. Let me know if you do come up with a linux friendly way. Going to be getting a few of these boards just for my parts bins. :P

Does the original power supply for the printer suffice for working the RAMPS board, or do I need a switching power supply with a 12v rail and a 5v rail?

Also, am I able to print from an SD card, or does this machine need to be perminantly connected to a computer to print from now on? And if so, am I able to use Cura 2.3.0?

Would be cool to make a clear epoxy fill with some of that ten hour glow powder and fill in all the little holes in the top, sand it down level and then seal it in with a clear coat layer.