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  • Azze01 commented on evertjloo's instructable LooVille ModelRailroad25 days ago
    LooVille ModelRailroad

    Wow, absolutely professional work by any means! When close to to the end I thought, "How long will it take until he wants to extend that thing?" Only to find some lines from there that you actually are... :-)) Go for it, man!If you need some inspiration, consult the page of the largest model worldwide https://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/

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  • Azze01 commented on tomatoskins's instructable Simple Belt Sander Blocks27 days ago
    Simple Belt Sander Blocks

    If someone has a couple of belts kicking around this is a neat project to make use of usable material. If you have to buy belts for this purpose, I think this is the most expensive version of a sanding block possible. In this case I would rather try to find a way to use sheet material, for it comes at a couple of cents a stack. Nice project though.

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  • 10 Common Plumbing DIYer Mistakes, and How to Fix Them!

    #12: Use Teflon tape when joining plastic pipes and hemp when joining metal pipes. From the day I started following this rule not a single joint has failed on me: Water proof instantly and in the long run.

    Honestly, I don't know about the UK, but you may be right. I live in Germany and even though modern materials like Teflon tape or compound pipe have been coming up over the past decades, some of the more traditional methods and tricks will never vanish because they are still applied with success and even may have some advantage over the modern stuff.

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  • Ultimate Night Vision Headlamp - 500+ Lumens With Only 8 Watts

    Banned as should be motorists that ignore the fact that they can (and more often do than not do) blind oncoming cyclists with their high beams. They seem to assume that the cyclist's head is well above their beam's top edge. They are wrong. A cyclist with squinting eyes should give you the hint you need, but being a cyclist (work commuter) I have my regular share of car drivers that not even turn their lights down when they see me squint. Nowadays, I have a LED Light on my helmet and so I have the light exactly where I need it: in the spot that I'm looking at. Plus it gives me the chance to direct my beam away from every oncoming car by looking to the ground/curb (just try that with bar mounted lights), but many of them keep blinding me until I blind them back. All I need to do now is l...

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    Banned as should be motorists that ignore the fact that they can (and more often do than not do) blind oncoming cyclists with their high beams. They seem to assume that the cyclist's head is well above their beam's top edge. They are wrong. A cyclist with squinting eyes should give you the hint you need, but being a cyclist (work commuter) I have my regular share of car drivers that not even turn their lights down when they see me squint. Nowadays, I have a LED Light on my helmet and so I have the light exactly where I need it: in the spot that I'm looking at. Plus it gives me the chance to direct my beam away from every oncoming car by looking to the ground/curb (just try that with bar mounted lights), but many of them keep blinding me until I blind them back. All I need to do now is lift my head and stare at the driver for a second to make them switch to low beam instantly. This tells me that they exactly know what they're doing but don't give a damn. But we shouldn't think in "They" and "We" categories. We're all prone to make mistakes and share the streets as well as the interest to avoid accidents. This should be motivation enough to take care of each other and not bash each other.

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  • Azze01 commented on diymontreal's instructable Easy Half Lap Joints10 months ago
    Easy Half Lap Joints

    There's an even easier way to cut the joint without having to cut and use the kerf spacer:1. Clamp a stop block to the crosscut sled fence so it touches the left side of the saw blade.2. pull back the sled to get the blade out of the way3. butt up the workpiece (perpedicular to the fence) against the stop block from the right hand side4. butt up another stop block against the workpiece, again from the right hand side. Clamp it against the sled fence.5. remove the left stop block, turn the workpiece, align it along the fence and butt it up against the right stop block6. make the first cut.7. Make repeated cuts to finish the halflap joint

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  • Azze01 commented on KitchenMason's instructable How to Make Awesome Sweet Chilli Jam1 year ago
    How to Make Awesome Sweet Chilli Jam

    You may want to sterilize the rubber seal, too by submerging it in rubbing alcohol or boiling it in water for 20 minutes.

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  • Azze01 commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Unusual Uses for Duct Tape1 year ago
    Unusual Uses for Duct Tape

    You can. The almighty MythBusters proved it. ;-)

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  • Azze01 commented on Anshu AR's instructable Scratch Built RC Airplane1 year ago
    Scratch Built RC Airplane

    Hi,Nice Instructable. Knowing about physics and the principle of aircraft wing profiles, I can't really tell what keeps the airplane flying here. The wings have no profile at all. All I can suppose is that the elevator keeps the fuselage and wings at a constant postive angle respective to the air the airplane travels through. Maybe this creates enough pressure underneath the wings to lift the airplane? Very basic, indeed, but seems to work ;)

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  • Azze01 commented on browneaction's instructable Brick and Polished Concrete BBQ Table1 year ago
    Brick and Polished Concrete BBQ Table

    oh, and it's always a good idea to fill the corners of the form with caulk so the edges of the slab are rounded to begin with. This significantly reduces tearout when the boards are removed

    Great, great job! I have a gas BBQ and some spot in the garden I would readily "sacrifice" for something like this...Some words though about your statement conernng the concrete: "wetter mixture is even better and working out air pockets" Well, that's true in terms of workability and comfort, but with concrete too wet there is a risk of uncontrolled cracking during the curing process. Cracked concrete is something you definitely want to avoid with a slab this thin, because any crack is likely to reach the rebar which will cause corrosion and shorten the life of the slab, especially when exposed to the elements. Since you ground the surface down I'm pretty sure some minor cracks would not hurt because the fine dust will fill the cracks and the sealer will penetrate a...

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    Great, great job! I have a gas BBQ and some spot in the garden I would readily "sacrifice" for something like this...Some words though about your statement conernng the concrete: "wetter mixture is even better and working out air pockets" Well, that's true in terms of workability and comfort, but with concrete too wet there is a risk of uncontrolled cracking during the curing process. Cracked concrete is something you definitely want to avoid with a slab this thin, because any crack is likely to reach the rebar which will cause corrosion and shorten the life of the slab, especially when exposed to the elements. Since you ground the surface down I'm pretty sure some minor cracks would not hurt because the fine dust will fill the cracks and the sealer will penetrate and hold the dust bound. But with temperature changes these cracks might open unnoticed sooner or later. So why take a risk?Always stay with the amount of water defined on the bag. It's true that the mixture will be harder to work with, but with a total amount like this it's hardly worth complaining. Use an oscillating sander or hammer drill held against the form boards, and the concrete will settle like magic under the vibrations with the bubbles popping at the surface. It's fun to watch, too. Covering the surface with a sheet of plastic to keep it moist while curing will further reduce the propability of cracking, especially when it's hot outside. Just keep it wet!Nyway, thanks for the great instructable

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  • Azze01 completed the lesson Stomp Rockets in the class Rockets Class1 year ago
  • Azze01 completed the lesson Tools + Supplies in the class Rockets Class1 year ago
  • Azze01 commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw1 year ago
    5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw

    I had good success with an old Phillips screwbit i ground to crisp sharp edges. This way when using on a stripped screw, the bit really bites into the stripped hole. When this doesn't help (stripped round, looking like a countersink), a really sharp flatblade screwdriver can do the trick when it is slightly narrower than the widest diameter of the countersink. You can pound it into the stripped screw, giving it just enough contact to get the scew out.

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  • Super SIMPLE Secret Bookshelf Door & Book Unlock Mechanism

    Who said I didn't look at the thought and the result? I'm a woodworking hobbyist, too and believe me: I definitely do appreciate people building things like these with simple tools and technique. So what's wrong with giving advise to make work easier and improve results? I thought Instructables was all about learning from each other. At least "ezeisel" seemed to understand.

    Who said I didn't look at the thought and the result? Didn't you read through my entire comment? I'm a woodworking hobbyist, too and believe me: I definitely do appreciate people building things like these with simple tools and technique. So what's wrong with giving advise to make work easier and improve results? I thought Instructables was all about learning from each other. At least "ezeisel" seemed to understand.

    Well, fair enough. Thank you!

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  • Azze01 commented on ezman's instructable Liquid Bandage1 year ago
    Liquid Bandage

    I just saw this 'ible of yours after commenting the same in the other one about wood glue gloves, so I repeat my comment here:There are situations when super glue is most welcome on my fingers. Repairing skin is one thing - protecting it is the other. Whenever I need to play the guitar in a gig after not having played for quite some time, I apply several layers of super glue to my left hand's finger tips to compensate for a non-existent callus there. To some extent this helps to protect against the ususal cracks I get there after playing for hours.

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  • Azze01 commented on ezman's instructable Glue Gloves1 year ago
    Glue Gloves

    Great instructable! Being a woodworking hobbyist I wonder why it never occurred to me that the unnerving woodglue I keep picking off of my hands after work might be looked at from a different angle, too. I'll have to give it a try.BTW - there are situations when super glue is most welcome on my fingers. whenever I need to play the guitar in a gig after not having played for quite some time, I apply several layers of super glue to my left hand's finger tips to compensate for a non-existent callus there. To some extent this helps to protect against the ususal cracks I get there after playing for hours.

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  • Azze01 commented on ezman's instructable Make Ice Chips1 year ago
    Make Ice Chips

    So ezman, did you run a time comparison test since?

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  • Azze01 commented on Ironwave's instructable Let's build a fixed angle knive sharpener2 years ago
    Let's build a fixed angle knive sharpener

    You can use the back of a ceramic tile to straighten and level out your stone after each use. With sand stone it shold be easy to define a razor-sharp edge in the last stage because the partices ripped out of the surface of the stone will break down to form a slurry with polishing properties - provided you use it wet an with a dab ob liquid soap

    You can use the back of a ceramic tile to straighten and level out your stone after each use. With sand stone it shold be easy to define a razor-sharp edge in the last stage because the particles ripped out of the surface of the stone will break down to form a slurry with polishing properties - provided you use it wet an with a dab of liquid soap

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  • Azze01 commented on kimaj's instructable How to Make Homemade Ice Cream in a Bag2 years ago
    How to Make Homemade Ice Cream in a Bag

    Then again, with a leaking inner bag (meaning the salt will get into the ice cream) it doesn't really matter what kind of salt you use: You want to throw it away - definitely ;-)

    As far as my memory will take me, the principle is: For any matter to perform a change from solid state to liquid or from liquid to gas, that "jump" requires a whole lot of energy to be put in in form of heat. E.g. for ice to be heated up fom -3 to -1°C it will take much less energy than to heat up from -1 to +1°C across the melting point. Think of it like a barrier that requires additional energy to be passed.When forcing ice to melt by means of salt, you push this barrier downward, resulting in an instant lack of energy needed to perform the melting. To balance the energy ratio, this missing energy needs to be drawn from the environment in forms of heat, resulting in the ice dropping in temperature dramatically.

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  • Azze01 commented on ezman's instructable Make Ice Chips2 years ago
    Make Ice Chips

    I guess so if you do this on a regular basis. For the occasional vomiting session, this shouldn't pose a threat to the cooling system. There's not a huge amount of energy in a flat pan of hot water after all.

    You may be right if you do this on a regular basis. For the rare situations when instant ice is needed like for the occasional vomiting session, this shouldn't pose a threat to the cooling system. There's not a huge amount of energy in a flat pan of hot water after all.

    You may be right if you do this on a regular basis, and I wouldn't talk you out of using the long run for stocking up for your coming cocktail party. But for the rare situations when instant ice is needed like for the offspring's occasional vomiting session, this shouldn't pose a threat to the cooling system. There's not a huge amount of energy in a flat pan of hot water after all.

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  • Get Cleaner, Better Cuts With This Circular Saw Tracking Guide

    With my first handheld circular saw being on the cheaper side, it didn't have a rail, so I just clamped a straight board to the material I wanted to cut. This worked well, but I had some issues with tearout when cutting plywood and veneered stuff. I solved this by just passing the saw backwards along the rail with the blade protuding just one mm below the base in the first pass (hold it down firmly!). This way the teeth cut into the surface rather than out of it, leaving a shallow groove with a crisp edge. Then with the blade set to material thickness and cutting forward with little pressure (to avoid warping the saw which may lead the blade nicking the just created clean edge) i finished the cut. Sometimes it helped to ever so slightly tap the rail to offset it a fraction of mm from th...

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    With my first handheld circular saw being on the cheaper side, it didn't have a rail, so I just clamped a straight board to the material I wanted to cut. This worked well, but I had some issues with tearout when cutting plywood and veneered stuff. I solved this by just passing the saw backwards along the rail with the blade protuding just one mm below the base in the first pass (hold it down firmly!). This way the teeth cut into the surface rather than out of it, leaving a shallow groove with a crisp edge. Then with the blade set to material thickness and cutting forward with little pressure (to avoid warping the saw which may lead the blade nicking the just created clean edge) i finished the cut. Sometimes it helped to ever so slightly tap the rail to offset it a fraction of mm from the desired edge prior to the end cut to clear the blade from the nice edge. Now that I own a dive action track saw (again on the cheaper side *sigh*) tearout is not an issue on the inner edge any more. Sadly, the outer edge will still fray since there is no support for the fibers there. But setting the blade depth is much easier on the track saw, so above mentioned method is just a piece of cake compared to the old saw.

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