Tell us about yourself!
This is my take on the Ripper I made a couple of months ago. It's a bit rough in places as I was kinda making it up as I went along. I intend making an improved version in the near future. I found a roll of 12mm adesive backed neoprene on Amazon for a couple of pounds that I used on the feet for grip that works well.
This is my take on the ripper. It's a little rough in places as I was kinda making it upas I went along. I shall make an improved version in the future.
Amazing work, especially with just basic tools. Very impressive.
Like these a lot, but surely it woulld have been easier to cut the angled segments off the 12x1 in 24inch lengths, and THEN cut them into the three finished lengths?
I know this is quite some time after your 'ible, but for tiny brass screws, try clockmakers parts suppliers
I've heard that Purpleheart loses it's colour after a while, becoming merely brown. Is this true?
1) CA glue is Superglue2) try Amazon3) Try Automotive paint suppliers
Thank you for the inspiration, this is my effort. The wood of both head and handle is out of a box of assorted hardwood I was gifted, so I'm not sure what it is - possibly mahogany (?). As I wasn't over confident that merely glueing the parts of the head together would hold, given that it would have to withstand shocks, I drilled three 8mm holes side to side through the head and inserted dowels liberally coated in Titebond 3. I think the contrast in colour adds a nice detail to it. I finished with 3 coats of my favourite Danish Oil.I'm well happy with the result.
Thanks. I've only just got my drill press and bandsaw, They're only cheapies but all I can afford right now, and your Lazy Kate was the first serious piece I've made with them, apart from a couple of simple tea light holders. My other half is a compulsive crocheter (the house is full of wool) , and this has earned me a few brownie points :-) Thanks to you for the excellent Instructable in the first place.
First of all, I hadn't got any hardwood of the neccessary thickness, so I cut 2 squares out of an old oak cabinet door, coated a face of each with Titebond 3 and clamped then firmly together. Once thoroughly dry, I drew out the base shape on it and cut it out with my bandsaw (easier and less messy than using a router for this job). I sanded the edges on my disc sander, then ran around them with a roundover bit on the router. I used a 22mm and a 12mm forstner bit to make the hole for the bearing. (Forstner bits make a much neater hole than a spade, and the bottom of the hole comes out nice and flat) Then it was back to the bandsaw to cut a 75mm circle out of a single thickness (14mm) of the old cabinet door for the yarn platform. Again I rounded the yarn platform edges. Hole drilled into...
First of all, I hadn't got any hardwood of the neccessary thickness, so I cut 2 squares out of an old oak cabinet door, coated a face of each with Titebond 3 and clamped then firmly together. Once thoroughly dry, I drew out the base shape on it and cut it out with my bandsaw (easier and less messy than using a router for this job). I sanded the edges on my disc sander, then ran around them with a roundover bit on the router. I used a 22mm and a 12mm forstner bit to make the hole for the bearing. (Forstner bits make a much neater hole than a spade, and the bottom of the hole comes out nice and flat) Then it was back to the bandsaw to cut a 75mm circle out of a single thickness (14mm) of the old cabinet door for the yarn platform. Again I rounded the yarn platform edges. Hole drilled into the base for the yarn guide dowel I cut a wire coat hanger and bent it round a steel bar I had lying around for the wool guide. Three coats of Danish oil with a light sand in between and insert the dowels - Job done.
Thanks for this. I have exactly the same problem with the riving knife on my table saw. Never occured to me to make a new one - dumb or what? Now I have a solution :-)
Ah, I understand now. Laminated timber is rare in my country (UK), mostly only used for very large structural beams for buildings. Also in the wake of an horrific fire in a multi storey housing block, government has banned its use in many building applications as a potential fire risk (due to the glues used I think), so it will be even rarer now. I guess I'll have to use normal timber, which should be ok. Thanks for clearing that up :-)
What is "laminated beam" please? Sounds like plywood, but what you used doesn't look like plywood. Also the planter box needs 5 pieces (2 sides, 2 ends and 1 for the bottom), but you only give the measurements for sides and ends.
What is "laminated beam"? Sounds like plywood, what you used doesn't look like plywood...
As at June 2019, the Woodsmith dado jig plans are no longer free. They now cost $7.95. :-(
Great looking piece, but how did you fix the table top to the legs? surely it doesn't just rest on them?
I worked for a while in a second hand tool shop in UK. The owner would buy dozens of pre-owned planes of all types from modern to antique which he picked up for next to nothing from house clearances, car boot sales, garage sales etc. A quick clean up, and American collectors would come over and buy every plane he had in stock, 40 or 50 at a time, at hugely inflated prices. He made a fortune. ( Wonder if your uncle was one of his customers? :-)
Looks a great idea, at least for you lucky guys in the US where timber is plentiful and cheap, but here in UK, for the cost of a piece of decent hardwood, you might as well buy a lenght of aluminium T-track from Ebay, the cost would be around the same, and you'd save time and hassle...
Nice insructable and attractive piece. For those in the rest of the world using the superior metric system, you'll find a 40mm Forstner bit is just right for the IKEA tea lights
Nice instructable, clear and easy to follow. Love your idea of "scrap wood". Here in UK almost any wood except pine is expensive and/or hard to find, so we hoard every bit we get - there's almost NO scrap :-)
Great idea, although I'm not keen on just threading the rod into the back bar. I'd be concerned that in time the rod would rip out of the thread. My preference would be to drill all the way through like in the front bar, and then use pronged T-nuts in the back face, then there's no way the rod would pull out
Color + Finishes
Making Perfectly Straight Cuts
Bevels and Mitres
Drilling Perfect Holes